The West Bank shepherds chased out by Israeli settlers


Thomas Helm
  • English
  • Arabic

The morning after Iran launched Tuesday's ballistic missile attack on Israel, Bedouin farmer Fares Samamreh woke at dawn in the occupied West Bank village of Shweika to tend to his sheep and chickens as usual.

A lamb had been born that morning and Fares's son, Jibril Samamreh, chased its mother around a pen, trying to pin her down to feed the newborn. As he did so, Israeli fighter jets roared overhead.

At first glance, few places in the Palestinian territories feel as removed as Shweika from the conflict in Gaza and Lebanon, the raids elsewhere in the West Bank and the wider tension engulfing the Middle East. But Fares and his sons have been on their own personal front line since October 7, which shattered their previously quiet rural existence, long before Iran started launching missiles at Israel.

Bedouin farmer Fares Samamreh at the doorway of the home he built in Shweika, in the occupied West Bank, after being displaced from Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National
Bedouin farmer Fares Samamreh at the doorway of the home he built in Shweika, in the occupied West Bank, after being displaced from Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National

Their story of massive loss over the past year reveals in sharp detail the lawless direction in which the West Bank is heading, and the powerlessness of Palestinians, the international community and even Israel’s highest courts to protect innocent people against emboldened extremist Israelis intent on seizing Palestinian land.

Fares and other shepherding families, numbering about 200 people, used to live in the village of Zanuta in the South Hebron Hills. Sandwiched between illegal Israeli settlements, including some of the most aggressive in the region, it consisted of a few stone buildings, livestock pens and a small school funded by European states.

Not long after the October 7 attacks, as the world’s eyes were focused on Gaza, settlers in the West Bank seized the opportunity to take swathes of Palestinian land. Bedouin villages like Zanuta, home to some of the area’s most vulnerable people, were the most obvious and easy targets.

Fares Samamreh cleans up after settlers vandalised his home in Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National
Fares Samamreh cleans up after settlers vandalised his home in Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National

Today Zanuta lies in ruins. The National visited briefly on Thursday, just enough time to see the haste in which the community fled, leaving kettles, mattresses and upturned fridges strewn on the ground. After no more than five minutes in the village, settlers approached. Knowing the reports of their violence over the past year, a quick exit was made.

Zanuta’s former residents have had a torturous year that subjected them to violence, financial ruin and short, dangerous stints during which some residents tried to return. There was even a surprising victory in Israel’s High Court of Justice, after legal efforts backed by human rights organisations and European states. The hope was short-lived. The Israeli state soon gave a reason why the community could not return and rebuild.

Now they are scattered throughout the West Bank, in places like Shweika. After serving tea and juice, Fares, a senior member of the community, who carried prayer beads throughout the meeting, told The National about where the residents of Zanuta find themselves. “We lost everything. We lost our homes, our wells, our land for herding and planting,” he said.

From left, Mohammed Tal with his son Ali, nephew Mohammed and son Riziq in the family’s new home, after being displaced from Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National
From left, Mohammed Tal with his son Ali, nephew Mohammed and son Riziq in the family’s new home, after being displaced from Zanuta. David Lombeida for The National

His Bedouin people are mostly originally from the Negev Desert, from where many were displaced after the 1948 Israeli-Arab War. They are semi-nomadic and earn a living mostly from agriculture. There are about 40,000 in the West Bank. The English word “Bedouin” comes from the Arabic “badawi”, a desert dweller.

“You have to bear this burden, you just have to bear it,” Fares said, sitting in a bare room lined with mats where men in the community meet. “We came here to Shweika and had to do it all again, from scratch. A new life. It was difficult. It began raining early. And as far as the sheep go, it was a big change for them. They are running over each other and some are even dying for lack of space – they are not meant to live this way."

“The problem is that in Zanuta we had land for planting and harvesting. Now there is nothing,” Mohammed Tal said, another senior member of the community who was visiting Shweika for the day. “Suddenly, we were forced to build new lives out of steel sheets and don't even ask me how much it cost,” he said, while chain-smoking.

Despite the pain of relocating to Shweika, Fares and his sons are still not free from physical danger. In May, Jibril was attacked by settlers. He said they took him at gunpoint, forced him to say things on camera, smashed his phone and then beat him. Pictures that The National saw showed Jibril’s bruised face and lacerations to his head.

Fares Samamreh shows an image of his son Jibril after he was attacked by Israeli settlers on the family’s property. David Lombeida for The National
Fares Samamreh shows an image of his son Jibril after he was attacked by Israeli settlers on the family’s property. David Lombeida for The National

“Our weapon is only a camera, while they have M-16s. The settler can hit you, but you can't respond and defend yourself. All you can do is film the crimes being committed against you,” Mohammed said, as Jibril put his phone back in his pocket.

Jibril’s attackers struck as a legal case mounted by the community gathered momentum in their favour, surprising many, and even getting some media attention. It culminated with the High Court of Justice in August telling Israel’s police, military and Civil Administration – a branch of the military that implements Israel’s civilian policy in the West Bank – to make arrangements for the community to return to Zanuta, as well as another village also emptied by settler violence, Um Darit.

The order was viewed as a major win by the human rights organisations and international backers. Israeli courts have long been viewed by activists as uninterested at best in upholding the law when it comes to the rights of Palestinians, although in 2017 the High Court spared Zanuta destruction after it blocked a demolition order.

Zanuta residents during a brief return to the village. David Lombeida for The National
Zanuta residents during a brief return to the village. David Lombeida for The National

Following the ruling over the summer, it soon emerged that victory on paper was still not enough to save the village. There were no stringent conditions on the state about what it had to provide residents whose lives had been so badly upturned. The community was also not allowed to rebuild the buildings that had been destroyed by settlers. About 40 members of the community went back to sleep in the open in August, but were defenceless against the same settlers who had attacked them at the beginning.

Then, just weeks after the High Court appeared to grant them a lifeline, the Civil Administration told residents that what little remained of their homes would be demolished if they did not accept a relocation plan that was drawn up by the state. It said there was an archaeological site at the village, which made legalising Zanuta impossible.

When asked about the point of the court, an institution at the heart of Israel’s democratic system, Mohammed said it was only there to “satisfy public sentiment, and especially that of other nations”.

“You had all these lawyers and volunteers, even representatives from other western countries in front of the court. They wanted us to return … The court played us and played the organisations that were helping us."

Mohammed Tal, right, and other members of the community repair a building in Zanuta that was destroyed by settlers. David Lombeida for The National
Mohammed Tal, right, and other members of the community repair a building in Zanuta that was destroyed by settlers. David Lombeida for The National

Mohammed says the only thing that can save them is if the “settler state” led by Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu – whose coalition includes a large bloc of extremist settlers, including ministers whose positions directly relate to West Bank security – is replaced by a better administration.

“Were there to be another government, perhaps something would change, but not necessarily. I'm not saying that all Israelis are bad. There are good people,” Mohammed said. “But the state is in complete control of everything. And this democracy they speak of is meant only for specific people.”

As Fares and Mohammed concluded their story, Israeli jets still roared overhead. They were most likely on their way to bomb targets in Lebanon, one of the many fronts Israel is fighting on after October 7.

The path to victory seems unclear and long in most of those dangerous arenas. In the West Bank, at least for the settlers, victory must feel close to guaranteed.

A now abandoned Zanuta in October. David Lombeida for The National
A now abandoned Zanuta in October. David Lombeida for The National
Brief scoreline:

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Haircare resolutions 2021

From Beirut and Amman to London and now Dubai, hairstylist George Massoud has seen the same mistakes made by customers all over the world. In the chair or at-home hair care, here are the resolutions he wishes his customers would make for the year ahead.

1. 'I will seek consultation from professionals'

You may know what you want, but are you sure it’s going to suit you? Haircare professionals can tell you what will work best with your skin tone, hair texture and lifestyle.

2. 'I will tell my hairdresser when I’m not happy'

Massoud says it’s better to offer constructive criticism to work on in the future. Your hairdresser will learn, and you may discover how to communicate exactly what you want more effectively the next time.

3. ‘I will treat my hair better out of the chair’

Damage control is a big part of most hairstylists’ work right now, but it can be avoided. Steer clear of over-colouring at home, try and pursue one hair brand at a time and never, ever use a straightener on still drying hair, pleads Massoud.

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The trek: Make sure that whatever tour company you select to climb Kilimanjaro, that it is a reputable one. The way to climb successfully would be with experienced guides and porters, from a company committed to quality, safety and an ethical approach to the mountain and its staff. Sonia Nazareth booked a VIP package through Safari Africa. The tour works out to $4,775 (Dh17,538) per person, based on a 4-person booking scheme, for 9 nights on the mountain (including one night before and after the trek at Arusha). The price includes all meals, a head guide, an assistant guide for every 2 trekkers, porters to carry the luggage, a cook and kitchen staff, a dining and mess tent, a sleeping tent set up for 2 persons, a chemical toilet and park entrance fees. The tiny ration of heated water provided for our bath in our makeshift private bathroom stall was the greatest luxury. A standard package, also based on a 4-person booking, works out to $3,050 (Dh11,202) per person.

When to go: You can climb Kili at any time of year, but the best months to ascend  are  January-February and September-October.  Also good are July and August, if you’re tolerant of the colder weather that winter brings.

Do not underestimate the importance of kit. Even if you’re travelling at a relatively pleasant time, be geared up for the cold and the rain.

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Updated: October 06, 2024, 8:16 PM