As you walk through the buzzing market of Tunis' central Beb El Jazira neighbourhood, a subtle smell of blending spices will fill your nostrils, followed by the unmistakable feeling of your mouth beginning to water. There is only one thing that could satisfy you now, and it's available at the oldest restaurant in town – Tunisia’s iconic lablabi.
Almost 100 years ago, Weld Hanifa opened its doors to customers, later becoming a destination not only for Tunisians but for people from around the world who come to visit just to taste the late Hammadi Droura's recipe.
Served in a ceramic bowl, the dish is mainly made of chickpeas, broken pieces of old bread, a broth rich with Tunisian spices and a sprinkle of olive oil, the never-absent harrisa (a red pepper and garlic-based paste) and a half-cooked egg on top.
It could also be served with harguma sauce, made of lamb head and trotter meat, tuna and occasionally, seafood.
Speaking to The National as she was serving her clients and setting the table, Mr Droura’s daughter-in-law Rachida says there is no other country in the world that could serve lablabi like Tunisians do; it is a dish that only Tunisians know the secrets of.
“The word might be Turkish and was inspiration from the chickpea-only lablabi they serve, but it can in no way be compared to or have similarities to ours,” she said.
Ms Droura says that their tiny restaurant has received some of the most famous artists that the Arab world has ever known, including icons like Egyptian singer Oum Kalthoum and the sensational Abdel Halim Hafez.
But as much as she takes pride in these names having been their customers, she is mostly proud of the connections their lablabi has been able to create between people regardless of the social classes that fade away once they sit on the same table to eat it.
“This meal does not differentiate between the poor and the rich. From big company directors, artists to construction workers and simple housewives, everybody eats here and they are mostly welcomed,” Ms Droura says.
“Even if you do not have the money, no one gets out of here hungry, that is my father in law’s will that we want to preserve.”
According to Sonia Hamzaoui, a culinary expert from the National Heritage Institute, all food in Tunisia, including lablabi, are the product of all the civilisations that came through.
“Even the idea that lablabi is of Turkish origin remains a hypothesis, our culinary heritage is so rich that it is impossible to identify a single source for it,” Ms Hamzaoui told The National.
Throughout its history, Tunisia has been conquered by many, including the Romans, Byzantine, Vandals, Arabs and Ottomans, all of whom had influence on many of the country’s modern daily life aspects.
“We have recipes that even date back to the Punic period, every dish could be inspired from many cultures but the way we cook dishes today cannot be compared to how the rest of the world makes it,” she says.
“Dishes such as Lablabi, Mloukhia and even the famous couscous are so different and are certainly a testament to the uniqueness and richness of our culinary heritage.”
“It is impossible for our lablabi to be imitated; our harissa is incomparable and our olive oil is known for its quality around the world,” Ayari, who has been cooking lablabi for the past 40 years at Weld Hanifa’s restaurant told The National as he was pouring a savoury broth made of harissa and spices that he did not want to specify as he considers it his special secret.
The chefs at the Weld Hanifa restaurant in Ben Al Jazira are certainly not the only famous Lablabi makers in town.
Uncle Hattab Barrouta – as many Tunisians call him – owns a restaurant just a few steps from the busy metro station, several high schools and offices. A diverse crowd across several generations has created memories here, including myself.
“My relationship with lablabi is a relationship of reminiscence to my beautiful childhood years with my late father, when we used to go to uncle Hattab to get lunch when he finished work,” Intissar Gassara, 31, told The National.
“Lablabi also represents the homeland … popular dishes are a definition and a representation of our Tunisian identity that distinguishes us from the rest of the Arab world,” Ms Gassara says.
“Lablabi will never vanish, I hope that this food will never lose its authenticity due to modernity, it is something we should preserve regardless of time.”
The love that Tunisians have for their culinary habits, namely lablabi, is the symbol of a simple need that all humans share; creating connections built around love, family and friends – and a national pride like no other.
“This shop is built on love, the love of believers among each other, the love for merciful acts and a love for the notion of family,” Ms Droura says.
In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
- Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000
- Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000
- Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000
- Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000
- HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000
- Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000
- Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000
- Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000
- Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000
- Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000
- Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000
- Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
- Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
- Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
Results
5pm Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m
Winner No Riesgo Al Maury, Szczepan Mazur (jockey), Ibrahim Al Hadhrami (trainer)
5.30pm Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m
Winner Marwa W’Rsan, Sam Hitchcott, Jaci Wickham.
6pm Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m
Winner Dahess D’Arabie, Al Moatasem Al Balushi, Helal Al Alawi.
6.30pm Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 2,200m
Winner Safin Al Reef, Connor Beasley, Abdallah Al Hammadi.
7pm Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 2,200m
Winner Thulbaseera Al Jasra, Shakir Al Balushi, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami.
7.30pm Maiden (TB) Dh 80,000 2,200m
Winner Autumn Pride, Szczepan Mazur, Helal Al Alawi.
Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEmonovo%20(previously%20Marj3)%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECairo%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ELaunch%20year%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2016%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E12%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Eeducation%20technology%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Ethree%20rounds%2C%20undisclosed%20amount%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
ENGLAND TEAM
England (15-1)
George Furbank; Jonny May, Manu Tuilagi, Owen Farrell (capt), Elliot Daly; George Ford, Ben Youngs; Tom Curry, Sam Underhill, Courtney Lawes; Charlie Ewels, Maro Itoje; Kyle Sinckler, Jamie George, Joe Marler
Replacements: Luke Cowan-Dickie, Ellis Genge, Will Stuart, George Kruis, Lewis Ludlam, Willi Heinz, Ollie Devoto, Jonathan Joseph
Groom and Two Brides
Director: Elie Semaan
Starring: Abdullah Boushehri, Laila Abdallah, Lulwa Almulla
Rating: 3/5
PROFILE OF SWVL
Started: April 2017
Founders: Mostafa Kandil, Ahmed Sabbah and Mahmoud Nouh
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport
Size: 450 employees
Investment: approximately $80 million
Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
The specs
Engine: 2.4-litre 4-cylinder
Transmission: CVT auto
Power: 181bhp
Torque: 244Nm
Price: Dh122,900
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200
The years Ramadan fell in May
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
12%20restaurants%20opening%20at%20the%20hotel%20this%20month
%3Cp%3EAriana%E2%80%99s%20Persian%20Kitchen%3Cbr%3EDinner%20by%20Heston%20Blumenthal%3Cbr%3EEstiatorio%20Milos%3Cbr%3EHouse%20of%20Desserts%3Cbr%3EJaleo%20by%20Jose%20Andres%3Cbr%3ELa%20Mar%3Cbr%3ELing%20Ling%3Cbr%3ELittle%20Venice%20Cake%20Company%3Cbr%3EMalibu%2090265%3Cbr%3ENobu%20by%20the%20Beach%3Cbr%3EResonance%20by%20Heston%20Blumenthal%3Cbr%3EThe%20Royal%20Tearoom%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Anxiety and work stress major factors
Anxiety, work stress and social isolation are all factors in the recogised rise in mental health problems.
A study UAE Ministry of Health researchers published in the summer also cited struggles with weight and illnesses as major contributors.
Its authors analysed a dozen separate UAE studies between 2007 and 2017. Prevalence was often higher in university students, women and in people on low incomes.
One showed 28 per cent of female students at a Dubai university reported symptoms linked to depression. Another in Al Ain found 22.2 per cent of students had depressive symptoms - five times the global average.
It said the country has made strides to address mental health problems but said: “Our review highlights the overall prevalence of depressive symptoms and depression, which may long have been overlooked."
Prof Samir Al Adawi, of the department of behavioural medicine at Sultan Qaboos University in Oman, who was not involved in the study but is a recognised expert in the Gulf, said how mental health is discussed varies significantly between cultures and nationalities.
“The problem we have in the Gulf is the cross-cultural differences and how people articulate emotional distress," said Prof Al Adawi.
“Someone will say that I have physical complaints rather than emotional complaints. This is the major problem with any discussion around depression."
Daniel Bardsley
PRISCILLA
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Sofia%20Coppola%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Cailee%20Spaeny%2C%20Jacob%20Elordi%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201.5-litre%204-cylinder%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ECVT%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E119bhp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E145Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDh%2C89%2C900%20(%2424%2C230)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Enow%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Hotel Silence
Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir
Pushkin Press
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
Wicked: For Good
Director: Jon M Chu
Starring: Ariana Grande, Cynthia Erivo, Jonathan Bailey, Jeff Goldblum, Michelle Yeoh, Ethan Slater
Rating: 4/5
MATCH INFO
Barcelona v Real Madrid, 11pm UAE
Match is on BeIN Sports
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
Ovo's tips to find extra heat
- Open your curtains when it’s sunny
- Keep your oven open after cooking
- Have a cuddle with pets and loved ones to help stay cosy
- Eat ginger but avoid chilli as it makes you sweat
- Put on extra layers
- Do a few star jumps
- Avoid alcohol
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
England Test squad
Joe Root (captain), Moeen Ali, James Anderson, Jonny Bairstow (wicketkeeper), Stuart Broad, Jos Buttler, Alastair Cook, Sam Curran, Keaton Jennings, Dawid Malan, Jamie Porter, Adil Rashid, Ben Stokes.
Dolittle
Director: Stephen Gaghan
Stars: Robert Downey Jr, Michael Sheen
One-and-a-half out of five stars
