Umm Al Jimal may now rival some of Jordan's better-known tourist sites. Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National
Umm Al Jimal may now rival some of Jordan's better-known tourist sites. Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National
Umm Al Jimal may now rival some of Jordan's better-known tourist sites. Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National
Umm Al Jimal may now rival some of Jordan's better-known tourist sites. Khaled Yacoub Oweis / The National

Postcard from Umm Al Jimal: Jordan’s lesser-spotted but well-preserved UN heritage site


Khaled Yacoub Oweis
  • English
  • Arabic

The black basalt arches of Umm Al Jimal make for a stark, standout image amid the barren landscape near Jordan’s northern border with Syria.

Once the domain of the Romans, the UN last month named this small city one of its World Heritage sites.

The endorsement could attract more tourists to Umm Al Jimal, which will now compete for tourists with the rose-rock city of Petra, the desert valley of Wadi Rum in southern Jordan, as well as the Roman city of Jerash, near the capital Amman.

The once-obscure city will now be added to the standard itinerary for tourists coming to the kingdom.

Umm Al Jimal is a two-hour drive from Amman, with long stretches of broken tarmac hindering progress.

It is 12km east of Mafraq, a dusty city that has seen increased economic activity in the past decade because many Syrian refugees took up residence there in the last decade.

But in a region rich in antiquity, it is easy to miss Umm Al Jimal, as tourists tend to visit the better known sites in Jordan.

In ancient times, a provincial road linked the present archaeological site to a trading route called the Via Nova, across the Fertile Crescent, the region in Western Asia and North Africa spanning Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine and Egypt.

What's in a name?

The origin of the name of Umm Al Jimal, Arabic for "mother of camels", remains unknown.

Several thousand people lived on the 550,000 square metre site that was hit by an earthquake in the 8th century.

The city thrived on agriculture, unlike its neighbour Gadara, the modern-day Umm Qais, which was known as a cosmopolitan centre of learning and the birthplace of the Epicurean philosopher Philodemus.

The importance of Umm Al Jimal sprang partly from its location on the edge of the Hauran Plain.

Sited between the Arabian Peninsula and the Mediterranean, the plain had fertile soil and was the main source of grain and wine for the Levant.

Caravan traffic and the incense trade helped boost the economy of the area.

While other ancient cities in Hauran had advanced infrastructure and elaborate buildings, such as Gadara and Bosra, in modern day Syria, Umm Al Jimal stands out as being among the best preserved.

But little is known about its history, due partly to a lack of excavation in the area.

The site had shops, houses, mansions, a canal network, reservoirs, churches, garrison headquarters and municipal buildings.

Some buildings still have their roofs intact.

Other structures were rebuilt by Druze Arabs who came from modern-day Syria and lived in the 1930s at the site.

Dethroning the Nabataeans

The Nabateans, the same people who built Petra, are thought to have also founded Umm Al Jimal.

One of the last Nabataean kings, Rabbel II (71-106), is said to have made Umm Al Jimal the capital of his kingdom, until the Romans overran the place.

Few traces of Nabataean existence are left, except for their stones that were used by those who came later – the Romans, the Byzantines and the Arabs.

According to a report by the American Centre of Oriental Research, 150 buildings remain standing in Umm Al Jimal, having been constructed from recycled Nabataean and Roman structures.

"This is the sacred stone, which Masik, son of Awidha, made for Dushara (a Nabataean God)," reads the inscription on a basalt stone which appears to have once formed part of an altar.

The same stone has a Greek inscription, but it names the God as Dushara-Ara, linking it to Ara, a deity popular in nearby Bosra, according to Sue Rollin and Jane Streetly, authors of the 1996 Blue Guide on Jordan.

Sturdy building

Despite the scorching summer heat outside, houses maintain a cool temperature indoors.

"The thickness of the walls provides insulation,” says Mane Al Masaeed, a local guide. “They knew how to build them.”

A Roman barracks is among the largest structures.

In Byzantine times, a chapel and six-storey tower were added, with the inscription of the four archangels: Michael, Gabriel, Raphael and Uriel, as well as a plea for protection.

During the First World War, French soldiers camped in the courtyard of the barracks, at the start of the great powers' scramble for the Middle East.

Many centuries before, Roman legionaries stood in the same spot.

Much of the water system still works, bringing in water from nearby wadis to a large pool.

Bedouin inhabitants erected concrete walls in the 1950s.

Mr Al Masaeed, whose tribe has spread to Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia, points out tiny channels connected to the underfloor of one house.

"It is the drainage system and it still works," he said.

On one shaky edifice, archaeologists have numbered the stones, in case they fall, but many of the remaining walls are still strong due to the way in which they were built.

Several roofs are also still standing, due to their web-like design.

One roof that had fallen down was rebuilt by locals decades ago using the same stone and the same 'spider' way of putting up the walls.

Visitors can have the entire place to themselves, getting a real sense of what it was like to live in this grand site.

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Company profile

Date started: 2015

Founder: John Tsioris and Ioanna Angelidaki

Based: Dubai

Sector: Online grocery delivery

Staff: 200

Funding: Undisclosed, but investors include the Jabbar Internet Group and Venture Friends

T20 World Cup Qualifier, Muscat

UAE FIXTURES

Friday February 18: v Ireland

Saturday February 19: v Germany

Monday February 21: v Philippines

Tuesday February 22: semi-finals

Thursday February 24: final 

Results

2.15pm: Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 1,700m; Winner: AF Arrab, Antonio Fresu (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer).

2.45pm: Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 1,700m; Winner: AF Mahaleel, Antonio Fresu, Ernst Oertel.

3.15pm: Sheikh Ahmed bin Rashid Al Maktoum handicap (TB) Dh200,000 2,000m; Winner: Dolmen, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

3.45pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 1,200m; Winner: Amang Alawda, Sandro Paiva, Bakhit Al Ketbi.

4.15pm: The Crown Prince of Sharjah Cup Prestige (PA) Dh200,000 1,200m; Winner: AF Alwajel, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel.

4.45pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 2,000m; Winner: Al Jazi, Jesus Rosales, Eric Lemartinel.

Scoreline

Liverpool 3
Mane (7'), Salah (69'), Firmino (90')

Bournemouth 0

Quick pearls of wisdom

Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”

Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.” 

Like a Fading Shadow

Antonio Muñoz Molina

Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez

Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)

Company profile

Name:​ One Good Thing ​

Founders:​ Bridgett Lau and Micheal Cooke​

Based in:​ Dubai​​ 

Sector:​ e-commerce​

Size: 5​ employees

Stage: ​Looking for seed funding

Investors:​ ​Self-funded and seeking external investors

Pharaoh's curse

British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.

SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20SAMSUNG%20GALAXY%20Z%20FOLD%204
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMain%20display%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%207.6%22%20QXGA%2B%20Dynamic%20Amoled%202X%2C%202176%20x%201812%2C%2021.6%3A18%2C%20374ppi%2C%20HDR10%2B%2C%20up%20to%20120Hz%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECover%20display%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%206.2%22%20HD%2B%20Dynamic%20Amoled%202X%2C%202316%20x%20904%2C%2023.1%3A9%2C%20402ppi%2C%20up%20to%20120Hz%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EProcessor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Qualcomm%20Snapdragon%208%2B%20Gen%201%2C%204nm%2C%20octa-core%3B%20Adreno%20730%20GPU%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMemory%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2012GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECapacity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%C2%A0256%2F512GB%20%2F%201TB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPlatform%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Android%2012%2C%20One%20UI%204.1.1%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMain%20camera%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Triple%2012MP%20ultra-wide%20(f%2F2.2)%20%2B%2050MP%20wide%20(f%2F1.8)%20%2B%2010MP%20telephoto%20(f%2F2.4)%2C%20dual%20OIS%2C%203x%20optical%20zoom%2C%2030x%20Space%20Zoom%2C%20portrait%2C%20super%20slo-mo%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EVideo%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%208K%4024fps%2C%204K%4030%2F60fps%2C%20full-HD%4030%2F60fps%2C%20HD%4030fps%3B%20slo-mo%4060%2F240%2F960fps%3B%20HDR10%2B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECover%20camera%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2010MP%20(f%2F2.2)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EInner%20front%20camera%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Under-display%204MP%20(f%2F1.8)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBattery%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204400mAh%2C%2025W%20fast%20charging%2C%2015W%20wireless%20charging%2C%20reverse%20wireless%20charging%2C%20'all-day'%20life%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EConnectivity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%205G%3B%20Wi-Fi%2C%20Bluetooth%205.2%2C%20NFC%20(Samsung%20Pay)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EI%2FO%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20USB-C%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECards%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Nano-SIM%20%2B%20eSIM%3B%202%20nano-SIMs%20%2B%20eSIM%3B%202%20nano-SIMs%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EColours%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Graygreen%2C%20phantom%20black%2C%20beige%2C%20burgundy%20(online%20exclusive)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIn%20the%20box%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Fold%204%2C%20USB-C-to-USB-C%20cable%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dh6%2C799%20%2F%20Dh7%2C249%20%2F%20Dh8%2C149%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Straightforward ways to reduce sugar in your family's diet
  • Ban fruit juice and sodas
  • Eat a hearty breakfast that contains fats and wholegrains, such as peanut butter on multigrain toast or full-fat plain yoghurt with whole fruit and nuts, to avoid the need for a 10am snack
  • Give young children plain yoghurt with whole fruits mashed into it
  • Reduce the number of cakes, biscuits and sweets. Reserve them for a treat
  • Don’t eat dessert every day 
  • Make your own smoothies. Always use the whole fruit to maintain the benefit of its fibre content and don’t add any sweeteners
  • Always go for natural whole foods over processed, packaged foods. Ask yourself would your grandmother have eaten it?
  • Read food labels if you really do feel the need to buy processed food
  • Eat everything in moderation
How to wear a kandura

Dos

  • Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion 
  • Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
  • Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work 
  • Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester

Don’ts 

  • Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal 
  • Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
Jetour T1 specs

Engine: 2-litre turbocharged

Power: 254hp

Torque: 390Nm

Price: From Dh126,000

Available: Now

Company profile

Name: Steppi

Founders: Joe Franklin and Milos Savic

Launched: February 2020

Size: 10,000 users by the end of July and a goal of 200,000 users by the end of the year

Employees: Five

Based: Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai

Financing stage: Two seed rounds – the first sourced from angel investors and the founders' personal savings

Second round raised Dh720,000 from silent investors in June this year

Groom and Two Brides

Director: Elie Semaan

Starring: Abdullah Boushehri, Laila Abdallah, Lulwa Almulla

Rating: 3/5

Evacuations to France hit by controversy
  • Over 500 Gazans have been evacuated to France since November 2023
  • Evacuations were paused after a student already in France posted anti-Semitic content and was subsequently expelled to Qatar
  • The Foreign Ministry launched a review to determine how authorities failed to detect the posts before her entry
  • Artists and researchers fall under a programme called Pause that began in 2017
  • It has benefited more than 700 people from 44 countries, including Syria, Turkey, Iran, and Sudan
  • Since the start of the Gaza war, it has also included 45 Gazan beneficiaries
  • Unlike students, they are allowed to bring their families to France
Three trading apps to try

Sharad Nair recommends three investment apps for UAE residents:

  • For beginners or people who want to start investing with limited capital, Mr Nair suggests eToro. “The low fees and low minimum balance requirements make the platform more accessible,” he says. “The user interface is straightforward to understand and operate, while its social element may help ease beginners into the idea of investing money by looking to a virtual community.”
  • If you’re an experienced investor, and have $10,000 or more to invest, consider Saxo Bank. “Saxo Bank offers a more comprehensive trading platform with advanced features and insight for more experienced users. It offers a more personalised approach to opening and operating an account on their platform,” he says.
  • Finally, StashAway could work for those who want a hands-off approach to their investing. “It removes one of the biggest challenges for novice traders: picking the securities in their portfolio,” Mr Nair says. “A goal-based approach or view towards investing can help motivate residents who may usually shy away from investment platforms.”

TV: World Cup Qualifier 2018 matches will be aired on on OSN Sports HD Cricket channel

Race card:

6.30pm: Baniyas (PA) Group 2 Dh195,000 1,400m.

7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m.

7.40pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 1,200m.

8.15pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 1,200m.

8.50pm: Rated Conditions (TB) Dh240,000 1,600m.

9.20pm: Handicap (TB) Dh165,000 1,400m.

10pm: Handicap (TB) Dh175,000 2,000m.

RESULT

Huddersfield Town 1 Manchester City 2
Huddersfield: Otamendi (45' 1 og), van La Parra (red card 90' 6)
Man City: Agüero (47' pen), Sterling (84')

Man of the match: Christopher Schindler (Huddersfield Town)

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
What is a robo-adviser?

Robo-advisers use an online sign-up process to gauge an investor’s risk tolerance by feeding information such as their age, income, saving goals and investment history into an algorithm, which then assigns them an investment portfolio, ranging from more conservative to higher risk ones.

These portfolios are made up of exchange traded funds (ETFs) with exposure to indices such as US and global equities, fixed-income products like bonds, though exposure to real estate, commodity ETFs or gold is also possible.

Investing in ETFs allows robo-advisers to offer fees far lower than traditional investments, such as actively managed mutual funds bought through a bank or broker. Investors can buy ETFs directly via a brokerage, but with robo-advisers they benefit from investment portfolios matched to their risk tolerance as well as being user friendly.

Many robo-advisers charge what are called wrap fees, meaning there are no additional fees such as subscription or withdrawal fees, success fees or fees for rebalancing.

Updated: August 10, 2024, 6:23 AM