Fins, fillets and folklore: the enduring allure of shark meat in Egypt's historic Suez


Kamal Tabikha
  • English
  • Arabic

Nestled in the heart of Suez, one of Egypt's most historic cities, the Al Ansari fish market has been supplying fresh catches from the Red Sea to residents and beyond for decades.

The market's vibrant display of exotic fish, from the geometric boxfish to the crocodile fish – which resembles a cartoon version of the fearsome predator – is a testament to the rich biodiversity of the region.

Species travel north from the Red Sea and are caught in the Gulf of Suez. The canal's northern connection to the Mediterranean also adds to the variety of fish at Al Ansari.

Amid the myriad colours and shapes, one offering stands out: shark meat, regularly consumed by many Suez residents who consider it a delicacy.

A juvenile shark laid out for sale at Al Ansari fish market in the Egyptian city of Suez on the Red Sea coast. Mohammed Fathi / The National.
A juvenile shark laid out for sale at Al Ansari fish market in the Egyptian city of Suez on the Red Sea coast. Mohammed Fathi / The National.

“Suez residents have eaten shark meat for generations. I personally love to eat it, it's sweet and delicious,” Mohamed Ali Barghout, 49, a ship captain and longtime resident, tells The National.

“Those who have a taste for it like a relatively young fish and they won't buy a mature one, because when it's young, the meat has the strongest flavour and is at its most tender.”

Despite being protected under Egyptian environmental law, sharks find their way into local fishermen's trawling nets by accident and, subsequently, on to the tables of the Al Ansari market, according to Ibrahim Mohamed, a 43-year-old fishmonger with three medium-sized sharks among his impressive display.

Other stalls similarly display various species of shark, from smaller hammerheads to tiger and zebra sharks, all native to the Red Sea.

While smaller sharks are sold to locals, larger ones are often chopped up and sold as generic fish fillets to suppliers outside Suez, including some of Cairo's seafood restaurants.

“I think many people from Cairo would be surprised by how much of the fish fillets they eat at restaurants is shark meat. I sell a fair bit to suppliers in Cairo,” Mr Mohamed says.

“But you can't sell mature shark meat to Suez residents, they know the taste too well. I, for example, can tell you the age and species of any fish that I put in my mouth. It's not a talent, it's just because we grow up around the sea and eat a lot of fish all our lives.”

Mr Mohamed acknowledges the illegal nature of hunting sharks but points to the challenges of enforcement.

“It would be very difficult to check every net of every fisherman that goes through the Gulf of Suez each day,” he explains.

The demand for shark meat, rooted in Suez's culinary traditions, further complicates the issue. According to fish vendors who spoke to The National during a recent visit, demand for the meat is steady, logically necessitating a more reliable supply than the odd sharks being pulled up accidentally in nets.

“I can't speak for any fishermen who go out to hunt for sharks specifically because that is not my business, but I can tell you that many fishermen are afraid of them,” explains Ramadan Monsef, 45, who owns and operates a fish-cleaning stall at the market.

He recounts an urban myth often retold at the market, detailing the discovery of a man's leg inside a tiger shark's stomach.

His job is to clean fresh fish bought by market-goers of their guts, bones and other unwanted parts. A few times a week, he is given sharks to clean and gut for customers.

Shark fins for sale at Al Ansari also attract buyers from China. Mohammed Fathi / The National
Shark fins for sale at Al Ansari also attract buyers from China. Mohammed Fathi / The National

The allure of shark in Suez extends beyond its taste, as evidenced by Mr Monsef's collection of dried shark fins.

From inside his small store, he pulls out a rag on which he lays out several fins ranging in size from small to medium, selling for between 200 and 400 Egyptian pounds (about $4.25-$8.50) apiece. The fins are sought after by male customers as a supposed remedy for erectile dysfunction, despite the lack of scientific evidence supporting this claim.

The trade in shark fins at the fish market, while small-scale, echoes the global shark fin trade that has pushed many species to the brink of extinction. The demand for shark fin soup, a luxury dish in Chinese cuisine, has led to the cruel practice of shark finning, where sharks are caught, their fins cut off, and their bodies discarded back into the ocean.

Mr Monsef says Chinese businessmen visit him to buy shark fins directly. “I reserve the really good varieties for them. I have sold some for above 1,200 pounds,” he says.

Al Ansari is Suez's main market for fresh seafood such as fish, squid, eel, shrimp and shark. Mohammed Fathi / The National
Al Ansari is Suez's main market for fresh seafood such as fish, squid, eel, shrimp and shark. Mohammed Fathi / The National

The Al Ansari market, with its colourful displays and hum of daily activity, encapsulates the essence of Suez – a city where the sea is not just sustenance but a way of life. The shark meat trade, woven into the community's fabric, serves as evidence of the resilience and adaptability of a people who have long relied on the Red Sea's bounty.

As the world grapples with the urgent need to protect marine ecosystems, Suez's sharks serve as a reminder that conservation efforts must account for the complex social, economic and cultural factors shaping our interactions with the natural world.

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What the law says

Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.

“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.

“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”

If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.

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Some of Darwish's last words

"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008

His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.

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How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
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  3. Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
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if you go

The flights

Emirates have direct flights from Dubai to Glasgow from Dh3,115. Alternatively, if you want to see a bit of Edinburgh first, then you can fly there direct with Etihad from Abu Dhabi.

The hotel

Located in the heart of Mackintosh's Glasgow, the Dakota Deluxe is perhaps the most refined hotel anywhere in the city. Doubles from Dh850

 Events and tours

There are various Mackintosh specific events throughout 2018 – for more details and to see a map of his surviving designs see glasgowmackintosh.com

For walking tours focussing on the Glasgow Style, see the website of the Glasgow School of Art. 

More information

For ideas on planning a trip to Scotland, visit www.visitscotland.com

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Updated: May 17, 2024, 6:00 PM`