Once polar adventures were the purview of the movies with plots such as James Bond on a deadly chase in Die Another Day in Arctic conditions but now the luxury traveller can access the world chilliest regions on the deck of a custom-fitted boat.
Le Commandant Charcot’s heated armchairs and warmed plunge pool are designed to take the bite out of the icy winds, offering a suitable touch of luxury to its trips to a world once off limits to all but the hardiest of adventurers.
But even if guests do eventually get a little too chilly on the ship’s voyages around the poles, there are plenty of places to soak up the scenery from the inside the world’s only luxury ice breaker.
Views of the frozen wastelands are available from almost everywhere on the Ponant ship, including the gym, indoor pool, and even its fine dining restaurant by French restaurateur, Alain Ducasse, who holds more Michelin stars than almost any other chef.
Other highlights designed to cater to the tastes of the luxury traveller include a cigar lounge, detox bar, and a nail and beauty salon, which offers personalised treatments for "skin weakened by extreme temperatures". And for guests who have not had enough of the plunging temperatures outside, there is even a snow cabin inside the spa treatment area to obtain the benefits of exposing the body to the cold.
The experience Le Commandant Charcot offers those able to pay the £40,000 (Dh184,000) per ticket offers a glimpse into how the wealthiest holiday. “Most of our guests are from France, the US, Australia, and the UK. We do have quite a few Middle Eastern guests as well,” said Mr Saveliev.
World's only luxury ice breaker
Le Commandant Charcot sails to both the Arctic and Antarctic. It is able to do that because it is an ice breaker, which are different to regular ships in several ways, including having the ability to push through, glide over, or break ice. It does this via a strengthened hull, which is typically rounder.
Le Commandant Charcot is the only passenger ship in the world reinforced to polar class two, PC2, meaning it can sail through ice thickness of up to 2.5 metres. The most powerful ships are PC1 and can operate year-round, but there are no passenger ships of this class.
In September, the ship reached the Northern Pole of Inaccessibility, the furthest point from a coastline in any direction, after passing both the geographic and magnetic north poles during the same voyage. It is the only passenger ship in the world that can reach these northern poles. Other destinations it offers include the chance to be one of the few visitors to the Antarctic in early November, as well as the legendary Northwest Passage and Greenland, several weeks before any other ships.
Tickets do not come cheap. But the price includes everything, including all meals and services, such as 24-hour room service and entertainment. Guests are accompanied on board by around 20 experts, including biologists, naturalists, engineers, glaciologists and geologists, to educate passengers, whichever route they choose. “They will hopefully see a lot of wildlife, like polar bears in the Arctic, or penguins in Antarctica,” said Vladislav Saveliev, UK commercial sales manager for Ponant for the South and Midlands told The National.
“They will see whales. They will see a lot of fauna and flora. And they will also have the opportunity to interact with our guest speakers on board – the lecturers, from marine biologists, glaciologists and they have the opportunity to sit with them during lunch and dinners and have a conversation to learn more about their work and experience. Our guests absolutely love that.”
Guides also lead expeditions off the ship, allowing guests to explore the icy shores on foot or via the sea on kayaks among the icebergs. Activities include kayaking, dog sledding, snowshoeing and hiking, ice fishing and a polar plunge. And if passengers want to learn how to take the best photos to catalogue their trip, the ship has that covered too. There are also “photo ambassadors” on board to help guests learn how to take the best photos with their mobile phones or capture a shot in the fading light.
Those lucky enough to afford the trip witness a vanishing world, with warming seas due to climate change, resulting in near-historic lows sea ice in both the Arctic and Antarctica this year.
Visitors to the poles take part in a sort of "last-chance tourism”, where visiting these types of endangered sites is about wanting to see them before they disappear", said Emmanuel Salim, a geography lecturer at the University of Toulouse in France.
Le Commandant Charcot runs on a hybrid electric/liquefied natural gas engine to minimise its environmental impact on the polar regions it visits. That helps ensure the views remain unspoilt – but the question is, for how long?
Melting sea ice is opening up new routes for shipping, leading to increasing traffic in areas like the Arctic. According to the WWF, the number of ships operating in its waters grew by 37 per cent between 2013 and 2023.
"The effects of global heating are at their most pronounced in the Arctic," said Michael Hall, a University of Canterbury professor and tourism expert.
Global warming is accelerating "the loss of Arctic sea ice in summer, (as well as) the melting of permafrost, ice shelves and glaciers", he said, referring to elements that contribute to Greenland's uniqueness.
Across the island, locals are witnessing first-hand the effects of global warming. On the southwestern coast, in Maniitsoq, the sea ice has not been solid enough to walk on since 2018. Residents have also seen it shrink from year to year, in addition to less abundant snowfalls.
Authorities in Greenland aim to develop the tourism sector in order to create jobs. Ponant, the operator of Le Commandant Charcot, joined forces with the community, launching its own programme to train young people from Inuit villages to become expedition guides.
Greenland's glaciers – in pictures
"In recent years we've seen that young people have started to become tour operators," Maniitsoq mayor Gideon Lyberth, told AFP, speaking about the development of the sector in general. "We're very, very happy, because young people have been leaving here for Nuuk, to live there, but now they're coming back. Clearly such developments will usually be seen as a good idea – at least in the short term," he said.
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ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
How to join and use Abu Dhabi’s public libraries
• There are six libraries in Abu Dhabi emirate run by the Department of Culture and Tourism, including one in Al Ain and Al Dhafra.
• Libraries are free to visit and visitors can consult books, use online resources and study there. Most are open from 8am to 8pm on weekdays, closed on Fridays and have variable hours on Saturdays, except for Qasr Al Watan which is open from 10am to 8pm every day.
• In order to borrow books, visitors must join the service by providing a passport photograph, Emirates ID and a refundable deposit of Dh400. Members can borrow five books for three weeks, all of which are renewable up to two times online.
• If users do not wish to pay the fee, they can still use the library’s electronic resources for free by simply registering on the website. Once registered, a username and password is provided, allowing remote access.
• For more information visit the library network's website.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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If you go
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Seattle from Dh5,555 return, including taxes. Portland is a 260 km drive from Seattle and Emirates offers codeshare flights to Portland with its partner Alaska Airlines.
The car
Hertz (www.hertz.ae) offers compact car rental from about $300 per week, including taxes. Emirates Skywards members can earn points on their car hire through Hertz.
Parks and accommodation
For information on Crater Lake National Park, visit www.nps.gov/crla/index.htm . Because of the altitude, large parts of the park are closed in winter due to snow. While the park’s summer season is May 22-October 31, typically, the full loop of the Rim Drive is only possible from late July until the end of October. Entry costs $25 per car for a day. For accommodation, see www.travelcraterlake.com. For information on Umpqua Hot Springs, see www.fs.usda.gov and https://soakoregon.com/umpqua-hot-springs/. For Bend, see https://www.visitbend.com/.