Only once in a generation comes a sale like this. Twenty-five years after the most famous product from the venerable House of Hermes was last sold, the original model of its Birkin bag is back on the auction block.
A quiet buzz has taken hold of the Sotheby's Paris offices this week as the auction house unveiled a rare cultural artefact: the first Hermes Birkin bag, designed in 1984 for the late actress and singer Jane Birkin. The worn black leather bag, used daily by Birkin for nearly a decade, is on public display before going under the hammer on July 10.
You mean Birkin, like the bag?
Jane Birkin
Outside the stately auction house on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, a stone's throw from the Champs-Elysees, signs mark the entrance to the free public exhibition running until July 9. Inside, beneath museum-like lighting, the bag sits encased in glass, visibly bearing the marks of its everyday use, including remnants of campaign group stickers affixed by Birkin.
This shows how much Birkin loved her bag, said Aurelie Vassy, head of handbag and fashion sales for Europe at Sotheby's. "It's a legend, it's an icon," Ms Vassy told The National on a tour of the display. "It's the origin of the most famous bag in the world."
Sotheby's had originally planned to sell the bag online but decided on a live auction after an unexpected surge in interest, it said. Previous sales indicate that bidding could reach into six figures, driven not only by its provenance but also its bespoke features, some of which have never been offered commercially.
No other bag
Unlike standard Birkins, this original model is a hybrid in size, with added depth. A shoulder strap, absent from future designs, hangs on its sides, and the initials "J.B." are stamped on the front. "There is no other bag like this," Ms Vassy said. "We suppose Hermes created this model to respond to Jane Birkin's needs." Her bag is derived from Hermes's first product, the Haut a Courroies, designed to transport horse riders' helmets.
The story of the Birkin bag's birth is fashion lore. On an Air France flight from Paris to London in 1984, Birkin's belongings spilt from her Hermes handbag, prompting a complaint to her seatmate.
To her surprise, her neighbour answered: "I am Hermes." He was Hermes director Jean-Louis Dumas and together they designed her ideal bag, which in later interviews she said she drew on the plane's "vomit bag". The Birkin bag was born.
Hermes has since cultivated the bag's mythology through scarcity and craftsmanship. Each bag is handmade in France but production numbers are kept secret. It is impossible to walk into a shop to buy a Birkin bag – it is up to Hermes to decide if they will sell you one.
Frustrated fashionistas in the US even sued Hermes in a class-action suit in California last year after they were refused access to the bags. Meanwhile, celebrities from Khloe Kardashian to Jennifer Lopez and Victoria Beckham have touted their Birkin bags.
Rarity and desire
It has become by far the most coveted bag globally, Ms Vassy said. "It's about rarity and desire – principles that Hermes manages extremely well," she told The National. "Year after year, unique pieces are crafted, with crocodile colours, for example, that are never made again. It's about trying to hold on to time as it slips through your fingers ... the symbolic value of Hermes keeps growing."
Prices can reach into the tens of thousands, and the resale market has turned Birkins into investment opportunities. "The strength of the second-hand market is that it allows you to buy a bag when you want," Ms Vassy said. A 2016 study by Baghunter found that Birkin bags offered a higher value on investment than gold and the S&P 500, a stock market index. In 2022, Sotheby's sold a diamond-encrusted Himalaya Birkin for more than $450,000.
Jane Birkin's personal Birkin is more modest in appearance. Yet its cultural cachet is unmatched. Its sale represents not only a fashion milestone, but a piece of history. That's also the reason why Sotheby's organised a physical sale, according to Ms Vassy, "to allow the bag to enter history a little more".
Birkin, like the bag?
Comparisons have been drawn with another pop culture relic: the original "black sheep sweater" worn by Lady Diana at a 1983 polo match. "It's an equivalent fashion item that is both one-of-a-kind and also belonged to a famous personality," Ms Vassy said. The sweater, viewed as a symbol of Lady Diana's sense of humour and rebellious spirit, fetched $1.14 million at a 2023 auction, soaring past its estimate of $50,000 to $80,000. It recently gained renewed fame through its appearance in the popular Netflix series The Crown.
Jane Birkin herself joked that the bag had become more famous than her. In an interview with CBS Sunday Morning, Birkin, who died aged 76 in 2023, recalled being asked during a trip to the US: "You mean Birkin, like the bag?" She laughed and added: "I thought, oh gosh, on my obituary, it'll say: like the bag."
The last time her original Birkin bag changed hands was at an auction in 2000. At the time, it was valued at 5,000 French francs – less than $900. The sale price was never disclosed. For next week's auction, Sotheby's has not published an official reserve. The current owner, Paris-based handbag collector and dealer Catherine Benier, stands to make a substantial return. Speaking to The New York Times, she called the bag "the most beautiful, coveted piece in the history of fashion".
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The five pillars of Islam
The five pillars of Islam
The years Ramadan fell in May
This is an info box
- info goes here
- and here
- and here
Zayed Sustainability Prize
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Russia's Muslim Heartlands
Dominic Rubin, Oxford
Like a Fading Shadow
Antonio Muñoz Molina
Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez
Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)
Company%20profile
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Dubai World Cup draw
1. Gunnevera
2. Capezzano
3. North America
4. Audible
5. Seeking The Soul
6. Pavel
7. Gronkowski
8. Axelrod
9. New Trails
10. Yoshida
11. K T Brave
12. Thunder Snow
13. Dolkong
Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
Banned items
Dubai Police has also issued a list of banned items at the ground on Sunday. These include:
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Political flags or banners
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Bikes, skateboards or scooters
The candidates
Dr Ayham Ammora, scientist and business executive
Ali Azeem, business leader
Tony Booth, professor of education
Lord Browne, former BP chief executive
Dr Mohamed El-Erian, economist
Professor Wyn Evans, astrophysicist
Dr Mark Mann, scientist
Gina MIller, anti-Brexit campaigner
Lord Smith, former Cabinet minister
Sandi Toksvig, broadcaster
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
Tonight's Chat on The National
Tonight's Chat is a series of online conversations on The National. The series features a diverse range of celebrities, politicians and business leaders from around the Arab world.
Tonight’s Chat host Ricardo Karam is a renowned author and broadcaster who has previously interviewed Bill Gates, Carlos Ghosn, Andre Agassi and the late Zaha Hadid, among others.
Intellectually curious and thought-provoking, Tonight’s Chat moves the conversation forward.
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If you go...
Flying
There is no simple way to get to Punta Arenas from the UAE, with flights from Dubai and Abu Dhabi requiring at least two connections to reach this part of Patagonia. Flights start from about Dh6,250.
Touring
Chile Nativo offers the amended Los Dientes trek with expert guides and porters who are met in Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino. The trip starts and ends in Punta Arenas and lasts for six days in total. Prices start from Dh8,795.
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Explainer: Tanween Design Programme
Non-profit arts studio Tashkeel launched this annual initiative with the intention of supporting budding designers in the UAE. This year, three talents were chosen from hundreds of applicants to be a part of the sixth creative development programme. These are architect Abdulla Al Mulla, interior designer Lana El Samman and graphic designer Yara Habib.
The trio have been guided by experts from the industry over the course of nine months, as they developed their own products that merge their unique styles with traditional elements of Emirati design. This includes laboratory sessions, experimental and collaborative practice, investigation of new business models and evaluation.
It is led by British contemporary design project specialist Helen Voce and mentor Kevin Badni, and offers participants access to experts from across the world, including the likes of UK designer Gareth Neal and multidisciplinary designer and entrepreneur, Sheikh Salem Al Qassimi.
The final pieces are being revealed in a worldwide limited-edition release on the first day of Downtown Designs at Dubai Design Week 2019. Tashkeel will be at stand E31 at the exhibition.
Lisa Ball-Lechgar, deputy director of Tashkeel, said: “The diversity and calibre of the applicants this year … is reflective of the dynamic change that the UAE art and design industry is witnessing, with young creators resolute in making their bold design ideas a reality.”
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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A Cat, A Man, and Two Women
Junichiro Tamizaki
Translated by Paul McCarthy
Daunt Books
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Notable groups (UAE time)
Jordan Spieth, Si Woo Kim, Henrik Stenson (12.47pm)
Justin Thomas, Justin Rose, Louis Oosthuizen (12.58pm)
Hideki Matsuyama, Brooks Koepka, Tommy Fleetwood (1.09pm)
Sergio Garcia, Jason Day, Zach Johnson (4.04pm)
Rickie Fowler, Paul Casey, Adam Scott (4.26pm)
Dustin Johnson, Charl Schwartzel, Rory McIlroy (5.48pm)
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The specs: 2018 Genesis G70
Price, base / as tested: Dh155,000 / Dh205,000
Engine: 3.3-litre, turbocharged V6
Gearbox: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 370hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque: 510Nm @ 1,300rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 10.6L / 100km
MATCH INFO
FA Cup final
Chelsea 1
Hazard (22' pen)
Manchester United 0
Man of the match: Eden Hazard (Chelsea)
Farasan Boat: 128km Away from Anchorage
Director: Mowaffaq Alobaid
Stars: Abdulaziz Almadhi, Mohammed Al Akkasi, Ali Al Suhaibani
Rating: 4/5
UAE squad
Humaira Tasneem (c), Chamani Senevirathne (vc), Subha Srinivasan, NIsha Ali, Udeni Kuruppuarachchi, Chaya Mughal, Roopa Nagraj, Esha Oza, Ishani Senevirathne, Heena Hotchandani, Keveesha Kumari, Judith Cleetus, Chavi Bhatt, Namita D’Souza.
More on animal trafficking
What can victims do?
Always use only regulated platforms
Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion
Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)
Report to local authorities
Warn others to prevent further harm
Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence
If you go
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Seattle from Dh5,555 return, including taxes.
The car
Hertz offers compact car rental from about $300 (Dh1,100) per week, including taxes. Emirates Skywards members can earn points on their car hire through Hertz.
The national park
Entry to Mount Rainier National Park costs $30 for one vehicle and passengers for up to seven days. Accommodation can be booked through mtrainierguestservices.com. Prices vary according to season. Rooms at the Holiday Inn Yakima cost from $125 per night, excluding breakfast.
The years Ramadan fell in May
The Outsider
Stephen King, Penguin
yallacompare profile
Date of launch: 2014
Founder: Jon Richards, founder and chief executive; Samer Chebab, co-founder and chief operating officer, and Jonathan Rawlings, co-founder and chief financial officer
Based: Media City, Dubai
Sector: Financial services
Size: 120 employees
Investors: 2014: $500,000 in a seed round led by Mulverhill Associates; 2015: $3m in Series A funding led by STC Ventures (managed by Iris Capital), Wamda and Dubai Silicon Oasis Authority; 2019: $8m in Series B funding with the same investors as Series A along with Precinct Partners, Saned and Argo Ventures (the VC arm of multinational insurer Argo Group)
Our legal consultants
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
The Voice of Hind Rajab
Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, (Leon banned).
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
The five pillars of Islam
The biog
Favourite films: Casablanca and Lawrence of Arabia
Favourite books: Start with Why by Simon Sinek and Good to be Great by Jim Collins
Favourite dish: Grilled fish
Inspiration: Sheikh Zayed's visionary leadership taught me to embrace new challenges.
Bareilly Ki Barfi
Directed by: Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari
Starring: Kriti Sanon, Ayushmann Khurrana, Rajkummar Rao
Three and a half stars
Directed by Sam Mendes
Starring Dean-Charles Chapman, George MacKay, Daniel Mays
4.5/5
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
More coverage from the Future Forum
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THE BIO
Family: I have three siblings, one older brother (age 25) and two younger sisters, 20 and 13
Favourite book: Asking for my favourite book has to be one of the hardest questions. However a current favourite would be Sidewalk by Mitchell Duneier
Favourite place to travel to: Any walkable city. I also love nature and wildlife
What do you love eating or cooking: I’m constantly in the kitchen. Ever since I changed the way I eat I enjoy choosing and creating what goes into my body. However, nothing can top home cooked food from my parents.
Favorite place to go in the UAE: A quiet beach.
more from Janine di Giovanni
ARABIAN GULF LEAGUE FIXTURES
Thursday, September 21
Al Dahfra v Sharjah (kick-off 5.35pm)
Al Wasl v Emirates (8.30pm)
Friday, September 22
Dibba v Al Jazira (5.25pm)
Al Nasr v Al Wahda (8.30pm)
Saturday, September 23
Hatta v Al Ain (5.25pm)
Ajman v Shabab Al Ahli (8.30pm)
Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
More on Quran memorisation:
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
