Residents queue for food in Rafah. Getty Images
Residents queue for food in Rafah. Getty Images
Residents queue for food in Rafah. Getty Images
Residents queue for food in Rafah. Getty Images

'Siege has suffocated us': Gazans remember cooking traditions of Ramadan during peacetime


Nagham Mohanna
  • English
  • Arabic

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If not for the devastating war that has killed more than 31,100 Gazans, residents in the besieged enclave would be looking forward to molokhia, a traditional dish at the end of the first day of Ramadan.

The green soup, made from the herb jute, is believed to usher in generosity and goodness in the coming year.

It is one of several Ramadan traditions that will not be taking place this year, as the Israeli blockade on goods continues, adding to the pain of the enclave’s 2.3 million people.

Umm Majdi Haboub from Jabalia refugee camp, in the north of Gaza, will not be cooking molokhia this year. Instead, she will be preparing khobisa, which is also green, as an alternative.

“I used to cook molokhia with meat and serve it with many delicious side dishes, as well as making natural fruit juices. But this year, everything has changed because of the war, destruction and siege that has suffocated us from all sides,” she told The National.

Children carry kitchen utensils as they walk toward a food distribution point in Khan Younis in Gaza. AFP
Children carry kitchen utensils as they walk toward a food distribution point in Khan Younis in Gaza. AFP

Most of the dishes usually served at this time of year simply won’t be available in Gaza, even those that use locally grown ingredients. Israel has destroyed most of the farms in the enclave, dividing it up into zones of checkpoints and making it difficult for farmers to reach their fields.

She tried to maintain optimism that Ramadan would bring an end to the war which killed her two brothers. Her son was also injured and her house was damaged in Israeli air strikes.

“I used to make sweets throughout the month, such as qatayef, but this Ramadan, qatayef will be missed along with other habits we used to have,” she said.

Qatayef is the famous sweet of Ramadan, only made during the holy month. However, it is a tradition that many Gazans will go without this year.

Suaad Al Balbisi, 46, who lives in Gaza city, lost her home in the war. She is also mourning her sister's children who were killed. Unlike previous years, when she would be with her eight children and other family members, this Ramadan, everything has changed.

“Ramadan, for us, is known for its dishes, sweets, fruits, and juices, but unfortunately this year all of that will not be available,” Ms Al Balbisi told The National.

She said that her meals will consist of whatever herbs they can find from the ground and some vegetables if they are available in the market.

“We used to look forward to Ramadan for the family gathering, the togetherness, and sitting around the food and the plate of qatayef after the taraweeh prayers. But unfortunately, all of that is gone,” Ms Al Balbisi added.

Memory and tradition

Qatayef carries a special tradition for many Gazans. Street vendors used to spread it out from the first day of Ramadan, and its smell would fill the markets.

“We used to buy them and when we returned to our homes, we would enjoy them in the way they were prepared and made, with a new story and a new tale every day. Whenever I opened Facebook, I used to find all the pictures, videos, and posts about this famous dessert in Palestine during the month of Ramadan,” Ms Al Balbisi said.

She hopes that the war will soon end and the Ramadan atmospheres of old return.

Khaled Al Attout, 27, a vegetable seller from Jabalia in northern Gaza, said that this year he would not be turning his stall into a molokhia stand.

“People would buy while laughing and being happy because of the Ramadan atmosphere and the goodness that comes with it. I would also decorate my stall with lanterns and lights when the holy month arrived,” Mr Al Attout said.

His stall was destroyed in the war when Israeli forces bombed the Jabalia Camp’s market in strikes that killed scores.

“The army destroyed many agricultural lands in Beit Lahia, in the north of the Gaza Strip,” he said.

“We lost all the sweet atmospheres that we used to dream of experiencing and enjoy. There is nothing left for us to be happy about or celebrate,” he said.

Abeer Aboud, 45, who was displaced from Gaza city to Rafah along with her father and three sons, said she would only be making lentil soup this Ramadan.

“I like to cook and in Ramadan, I used to prepare some dishes like samosak and koba before Ramadan and store them in the freezer, but there is no electricity for the freezer now, nor some food to prepare,” she said.

She said that the joy of Ramadan has lost its meaning now that her home has been destroyed and she cannot be with her sister, who is staying in Gaza city.

"I am worried about my sister; she will be deprived of many simple things, such as the canned food that's available in Rafah but not available in Gaza city," she added.

Wallabies

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Replacements: 16-Folau Faingaa, 17-Tom Robertson, 18-Taniela Tupou, 19-Izack Rodda, 20-Ned Hanigan, 21-Joe Powell, 22-Bernard Foley, 23-Jack Maddocks.

Paltan

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​​​​​​​Princeton

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Spurs: Alli (11')

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England 228-7, 50 overs
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India 219, 48.4 overs
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England won by nine runs

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West Asia Premiership - Winners: Jebel Ali Dragons; Runners up: Abu Dhabi Harlequins

UAE Premiership Cup - Winners: Abu Dhabi Harlequins; Runners up: Dubai Exiles

UAE Premiership - Winners: Dubai Exiles; Runners up: Abu Dhabi Harlequins

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1st row
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Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)

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PAST 10 BRITISH GRAND PRIX WINNERS

2016 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2015 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2014 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2013 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes-GP)
2012 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2011 - Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
2010 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2008 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2007 - Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)

FIXTURES

Thu Mar 15 – West Indies v Afghanistan, UAE v Scotland
Fri Mar 16 – Ireland v Zimbabwe
Sun Mar 18 – Ireland v Scotland
Mon Mar 19 – West Indies v Zimbabwe
Tue Mar 20 – UAE v Afghanistan
Wed Mar 21 – West Indies v Scotland
Thu Mar 22 – UAE v Zimbabwe
Fri Mar 23 – Ireland v Afghanistan

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The top-placed side out of Papua New Guinea, Hong Kong or Nepal will be granted one-day international status. UAE and Scotland have already won ODI status, having qualified for the Super Six.

Thu Mar 15 – Netherlands v Hong Kong, PNG v Nepal
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1 The kind of water athletes drink is important. Gwilym Hooson, a 28-year-old British performer who is currently recovering from knee surgery, found that out when the company was still in Studio City, training for 12 hours a day. “The physio team was like: ‘Why is everyone getting cramps?’ And then they realised we had to add salt and sugar to the water,” he says.

2 A little chocolate is a good thing. “It’s emergency energy,” says Craig Paul Smith, La Perle’s head coach and former Cirque du Soleil performer, gesturing to an almost-empty open box of mini chocolate bars on his desk backstage.

3 Take chances, says Young, who has worked all over the world, including most recently at Dragone’s show in China. “Every time we go out of our comfort zone, we learn a lot about ourselves,” she says.

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Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

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  • 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
  • 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250 

Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution

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