Amman chef's Arabic cookies rise above mass-produced rivals


Khaled Yacoub Oweis
  • English
  • Arabic

Jordanian pastry chef Suha Abdulkarim is crushing gold-coloured dates to make a filling for her finely decorated Levantine cookies, called maamoul.

Maamoul is one of few foods in Jordan – a country not usually on the culinary radar of the Middle East – that can hold its own against offerings from Syria and Lebanon, the heavyweights of Arab cuisine.

At her home in Amman, Ms Abdulkarim mixes the crushed dates with – among other things – fennel, anise, ghee, mastic, nutmeg and fenugreek, a herb that resembles clover.

The filling is then shaped into hollow circles and engulfed with dough made from semolina. Before the cookies are finished, delicate patterns are etched on their surface.

Unlike much of the maamoul on the market in Jordan and across the region, Ms Abdulkarim does not use premade date paste. Nor does she use moulds for the decorations – these are engraved by hand, a technique called tanqeesh.

Her dates of choice are Khalas, a variety imported from the Emirates. It was a favourite of Sheikh Zayed, the Founding Father.

“Khalas is soft and gives such a nice colour inside the maamoul,” Ms Abdulkarim says.

When she started her business from home a decade ago, Ms Abdulkarim’s maamoul quickly became a local hit.

The market is dominated by mass production but discerning clientele in Amman wanted quality.

But a retreating economy, worsened by the coronavirus pandemic, has hit demand.

Last year, Ms Abdulkarim closed her workshop. It employed a dozen people from impoverished neighbourhoods in east Amman.

She switched to working from home but retained a premises near the Four Seasons Hotel in the western part of the capital.

She sells a kilogram of maamoul for $14, a similar price for some of the mass-produced varieties on sale in Jordan.

"We were affected because so many people since the coronavirus have started cooking businesses from home," she says.

Still, very little of the maamoul sold in Jordan or across the region, receives the attention she gives.

I have been loving cuisine since I was young. I used to skip studying to go into the kitchen and cook
Suha Abdulkarim

She subscribes to an age-old Levantine cooking mantra: the eye also eats.

“It is a labour of love,” she says.

Her three sons and her sister-in-law are her core maamoul assistants. When she has big orders, she hires temporary help.

Haitham, her eldest, is in the 10th Grade and is "really good at tanqeesh", Ms Abdulkarim says.

When she was growing up, her parents pressured her to study hard, but her focus was cooking.

“I have been loving cuisine since I was young. I used to skip studying to go into the kitchen and cook,” she says.

Maamoul is thought to have originated in Pharaonic Egypt, although some say that, similar to many Arabic sweets, it is Ottoman.

But it has been known for generations among the Bedouins of the Levant and in the Gulf, with dates being a staple of desert regions.

City dwellers eat it especially on religious feasts, Muslim and Christian, but for unknown reasons, not at Christmas.

Urban Levantines modernised maamoul by making it into individual cookies and adding more spices, instead of producing one big, flat piece known as the maamoul madd.

Maamoul can also made with pistachio filling and walnuts, instead of dates.

Ms Abdulkarim buys pistachios that are imported from northern Syria because of the intensity of their green colour. The walnuts come from the US.

Many of her customers think she is of Palestinian origin, because her maamoul is made according to a Palestinian recipe she learnt from her mother.

But her father is from the city of Madaba, south of Amman, and her mother is from Saudi Arabia. Ms Abdulkarim is married to an Iraqi dentist, who fled Iraq to Jordan in the 1990s.

“Customers think I am from Nablus,” Ms Abdulkarim says, referring to the Palestinian capital of sweets.

But a good recipe and ingredients alone are not enough to make delicious maamoul, she says.

“The intention also needs to be good.”

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COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Lamsa

Founder: Badr Ward

Launched: 2014

Employees: 60

Based: Abu Dhabi

Sector: EdTech

Funding to date: $15 million

Her most famous song

Aghadan Alqak (Would I Ever Find You Again)?

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Our legal columnist

Name: Yousef Al Bahar

Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994

Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers

What is the definition of an SME?

SMEs in the UAE are defined by the number of employees, annual turnover and sector. For example, a “small company” in the services industry has six to 50 employees with a turnover of more than Dh2 million up to Dh20m, while in the manufacturing industry the requirements are 10 to 100 employees with a turnover of more than Dh3m up to Dh50m, according to Dubai SME, an agency of the Department of Economic Development.

A “medium-sized company” can either have staff of 51 to 200 employees or 101 to 250 employees, and a turnover less than or equal to Dh200m or Dh250m, again depending on whether the business is in the trading, manufacturing or services sectors. 

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Starring: Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ash Tandon, Prabhleen Sandhu

Director: Hansal Mehta

Rating: 4 / 5

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What can victims do?

Always use only regulated platforms

Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion

Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)

Report to local authorities

Warn others to prevent further harm

Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence

Tips to stay safe during hot weather
  • Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of fluids, especially water. Avoid alcohol and caffeine, which can increase dehydration.
  • Seek cool environments: Use air conditioning, fans, or visit community spaces with climate control.
  • Limit outdoor activities: Avoid strenuous activity during peak heat. If outside, seek shade and wear a wide-brimmed hat.
  • Dress appropriately: Wear lightweight, loose and light-coloured clothing to facilitate heat loss.
  • Check on vulnerable people: Regularly check in on elderly neighbours, young children and those with health conditions.
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UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Brief scores:

Barcelona 3

Pique 38', Messi 51 (pen), Suarez 82'

Rayo Vallecano 1

De Tomas Gomez 24'

Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

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If you go

The flights Etihad (www.etihad.com) and Spice Jet (www.spicejet.com) fly direct from Abu Dhabi and Dubai to Pune respectively from Dh1,000 return including taxes. Pune airport is 90 minutes away by road. 

The hotels A stay at Atmantan Wellness Resort (www.atmantan.com) costs from Rs24,000 (Dh1,235) per night, including taxes, consultations, meals and a treatment package.
 

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Director: Abdulrahman Sabbah 

Starring: Alaa Meqdad

Rating: 4/5

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Conflict, drought, famine

Estimates of the number of deaths caused by the famine range from 400,000 to 1 million, according to a document prepared for the UK House of Lords in 2024.
It has been claimed that the policies of the Ethiopian government, which took control after deposing Emperor Haile Selassie in a military-led revolution in 1974, contributed to the scale of the famine.
Dr Miriam Bradley, senior lecturer in humanitarian studies at the University of Manchester, has argued that, by the early 1980s, “several government policies combined to cause, rather than prevent, a famine which lasted from 1983 to 1985. Mengistu’s government imposed Stalinist-model agricultural policies involving forced collectivisation and villagisation [relocation of communities into planned villages].
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Bob Geldof, singer with the Irish rock group The Boomtown Rats, formed Band Aid in response to the horrific images shown in the news broadcasts.
With Midge Ure of the band Ultravox, he wrote the hit charity single Do They Know it’s Christmas in December 1984, featuring a string of high-profile musicians.
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Live Aid was a series of simultaneous concerts that took place at Wembley Stadium in London, John F Kennedy Stadium in Philadelphia, the US, and at various other venues across the world.
The combined event was broadcast to an estimated worldwide audience of 1.5 billion.

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  • 400m Olympic running track
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RESULT

Norway 1 Spain 1
Norway: King (90 4')
Spain: Niguez (47')

UK-EU trade at a glance

EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years

Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products

Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries

Smoother border management with use of e-gates

Cutting red tape on import and export of food

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
How tumultuous protests grew
  • A fuel tax protest by French drivers appealed to wider anti-government sentiment
  • Unlike previous French demonstrations there was no trade union or organised movement involved 
  • Demonstrators responded to online petitions and flooded squares to block traffic
  • At its height there were almost 300,000 on the streets in support
  • Named after the high visibility jackets that drivers must keep in cars 
  • Clashes soon turned violent as thousands fought with police at cordons
  • An estimated two dozen people lost eyes and many others were admitted to hospital 
Tips for job-seekers
  • Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
  • Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.

David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East

Cinco in numbers

Dh3.7 million

The estimated cost of Victoria Swarovski’s gem-encrusted Michael Cinco wedding gown

46

The number, in kilograms, that Swarovski’s wedding gown weighed.

1,000

The hours it took to create Cinco’s vermillion petal gown, as seen in his atelier [note, is the one he’s playing with in the corner of a room]

50

How many looks Cinco has created in a new collection to celebrate Ballet Philippines’ 50th birthday

3,000

The hours needed to create the butterfly gown worn by Aishwarya Rai to the 2018 Cannes Film Festival.

1.1 million

The number of followers that Michael Cinco’s Instagram account has garnered.

Profile Idealz

Company: Idealz

Founded: January 2018

Based: Dubai

Sector: E-commerce

Size: (employees): 22

Investors: Co-founders and Venture Partners (9 per cent)

Profile

Company: Justmop.com

Date started: December 2015

Founders: Kerem Kuyucu and Cagatay Ozcan

Sector: Technology and home services

Based: Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai

Size: 55 employees and 100,000 cleaning requests a month

Funding:  The company’s investors include Collective Spark, Faith Capital Holding, Oak Capital, VentureFriends, and 500 Startups. 

GCC-UK%20Growth
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Updated: December 12, 2021, 10:29 AM`