Baghdad resident Mohammed Salih, 52, is racing against time to document his hometown’s disappearing heritage, which has fallen victim to decades of war, neglect and mismanagement.
“Unfortunately, our heritage and old Baghdadi houses are fading away,” says Mr Salih, a civil engineer, standing next to a rundown building dating back to early last century in a narrow alley in Al Sinak area.
“It’s so heart-wrenching to describe Baghdad today,” Mr Salih tells The National.
Baghdad – also known as the Round City and the City of Peace – was built by the Abbasid caliph Abu Jaafar Al Mansur between 762 and 775 AD to serve as the capital of the Abbasid Empire that stretched from present-day Algeria to Pakistan.
For nearly 500 years, the city was the centre of economic and political power in the world, during the Islamic Golden Age. Then, the metropolis was an attractive destination for students, prominent poets, scientists, merchants and others from all over the world.
But that era ended with the Mongol invasion in 1258AD. At that time, the city suffered heavily.
The Mongol conquerors killed the caliph Al Mutasim and most of the city's inhabitants, looting and destroying mosques, libraries and other buildings.
After the Mongols, Persians and the Ottoman empire competed for the occupation and rule of Baghdad as part of the Ottoman-Safavid war. The Ottoman rule was the longest, lasting to 1918, and was followed by the British occupation.
Mr Salih's quest to discover old Baghdad goes back to 1989 when he arrived at the College of Engineering as curriculums on building techniques and the plans of old cities took him to the city's historic districts.
After the fall of Saddam Hussein’s regime in 2003, Mr Salih decided to use his experience for the benefit of the public.
“It was not easy before to hold a camera and take photos without security approvals from the authorities,” the Industry Ministry employee says.
“But since 2003, there has been a space of freedom and with phones fitted with cameras, anyone can now take pictures."
During his days off and on holidays, he walks through the countless twisted old alleys that run through the city like arteries.
At the end of each tour, he writes a post on his Facebook page, explaining the history of each site accompanied by new and old pictures.
“Readings offer me 75 per cent of the site information and location and the other 25 per cent I get from the people,” he says. “Sometimes, I can find only bricks or walls or nothing."
In recent decades, Baghdad has lost significant parts of its architectural heritage because of social and political unrest and the absence of the preservation projects.
Some old properties that once belonged to dignitaries and tell the story of its past glory are still standing. They are either under the government control or privately owned.
With a lack of law enforcement, many owners demolished their old homes without proper permits to build new buildings. Others have been turned unceremoniously into warehouses or workshops.
For some owners and tenants, Mr Salih is an unwanted guest.
He believes they fear that any light shed on the condition of dilapidated properties by his posts could spur government action. But sometimes, his negotiation skills can open doors.
In late November, he sneaked into the palace of Menahem Saleh Daniel, a well-known Jewish merchant, landlord and politician who was born in Baghdad in 1846 and died there in 1940, in the Al Sinak area.
The old section overlooking the Tigris was built in 1919 for the family and the other part facing Al Rasheed Street was built four years later for guests.
The two-storey house has marble staircases, tiles with floral and geometric designs, latticed windows and sprawling inner courtyards.
For years, it hosted King Faisal, the first Hashemite king of Iraq who reigned from 1921 until his death in 1933, as well as other dignitaries.
Like other Jewish community properties, the house has been considered a frozen asset since the 1950s after the emigration of Jews from Iraq. The government has given it to a local film company that undertakes renovation works.
The end of a long journey
At the entrance of the old part, Mr Salih was stopped by the supervisor, but managed to convince the man to allow him to enter.
Minutes later, he found what he was looking for.
With a smile and a gleam in his eyes, he yelled: “Here’s the first elevator in Iraq,” pointing to the now-idle lift that Menahem built for his wife who couldn’t use the stairs.
In 2021, his long journey came to fruition.
He wrote The Last Remaining Baghdad, a book that takes the reader on a journey of Baghdad while learning about the stories behind each site. He is working on the second edition.
“When I walk in Baghdad’s alleys and see its old houses, bazaars and mosques, I feel like living in its past glory,” he said.
“I feel good and forget all my worries.”
Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
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The Way It Was: My Life with Frank Sinatra by Eliot Weisman and Jennifer Valoppi
Hachette Books
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The specs: Macan Turbo
Engine: Dual synchronous electric motors
Power: 639hp
Torque: 1,130Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Touring range: 591km
Price: From Dh412,500
On sale: Deliveries start in October
Paltan
Producer: JP Films, Zee Studios
Director: JP Dutta
Cast: Jackie Shroff, Sonu Sood, Arjun Rampal, Siddhanth Kapoor, Luv Sinha and Harshvardhan Rane
Rating: 2/5
The Settlers
Director: Louis Theroux
Starring: Daniella Weiss, Ari Abramowitz
Rating: 5/5
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
Tales of Yusuf Tadros
Adel Esmat (translated by Mandy McClure)
Hoopoe
Gothia Cup 2025
4,872 matches
1,942 teams
116 pitches
76 nations
26 UAE teams
15 Lebanese teams
2 Kuwaiti teams
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
UAE v Gibraltar
What: International friendly
When: 7pm kick off
Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City
Admission: Free
Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page
UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Canada
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ABU DHABI ORDER OF PLAY
Starting at 10am:
Daria Kasatkina v Qiang Wang
Veronika Kudermetova v Annet Kontaveit (10)
Maria Sakkari (9) v Anastasia Potapova
Anastasia Pavlyuchenkova v Ons Jabeur (15)
Donna Vekic (16) v Bernarda Pera
Ekaterina Alexandrova v Zarina Diyas
Roll of honour 2019-2020
Dubai Rugby Sevens
Winners: Dubai Hurricanes
Runners up: Bahrain
West Asia Premiership
Winners: Bahrain
Runners up: UAE Premiership
UAE Premiership
}Winners: Dubai Exiles
Runners up: Dubai Hurricanes
UAE Division One
Winners: Abu Dhabi Saracens
Runners up: Dubai Hurricanes II
UAE Division Two
Winners: Barrelhouse
Runners up: RAK Rugby
What are the influencer academy modules?
- Mastery of audio-visual content creation.
- Cinematography, shots and movement.
- All aspects of post-production.
- Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
- Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
- Tourism industry knowledge.
- Professional ethics.
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
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Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
Fitness problems in men's tennis
Andy Murray - hip
Novak Djokovic - elbow
Roger Federer - back
Stan Wawrinka - knee
Kei Nishikori - wrist
Marin Cilic - adductor
David Haye record
Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4
How to vote in the UAE
1) Download your ballot https://www.fvap.gov/
2) Take it to the US Embassy
3) Deadline is October 15
4) The embassy will ensure all ballots reach the US in time for the November 3 poll
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
The%20specs
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Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
