Two young Iraqis have launched an online travel service on Facebook for foreigners intrepid enough to visit Iraq.
That might seem like a niche proposition – after all, the country still experiences ISIS attacks and occasional bouts of violence between international coalition forces and groups backed by Iran.
But large parts of Iraq remain safe enough to visit, especially for those with local knowledge, Iraqis and backpackers tell The National.
The online Travellers Cafe, established by Diyar Talal, 25, and Osamah Mousa, 32, both students, provides exactly that – local knowledge.
Set up to promote “global citizenship”, the forum has exploded in popularity and found a wide audience among those who want to see Iraq’s seemingly endless archaeological heritage and eye-catching landscapes, lush palm groves and barren desert.
“Travelling is not a goal but a means to gain lots of things," Mr Talal said. "Through it, a person can enrich their knowledge, improve their creativity in business and other fields. Our most important goal is helping people to accept others regardless of their background."
In less than two years, the group’s membership has swelled to more than 28,000.
Mr Talal is studying for a master’s degree student in computer science at Al Mustansiriyah University in Baghdad. In 2019 he launched the cafe but found himself alone, so he didn’t hesitate to share his idea with his friend.
“When I was in India studying, Diyar phoned me and expressed his willingness to become a co-founder of the Iraqi Travellers cafe. I agreed and once I came to Baghdad, we teamed up,” Mr Mousa said.
“I am a part of this world, I am not a local citizen but an international one who feels responsible for spreading peace through the global citizenship concept."
But the forum isn’t online only: Beban cafe in Baghdad is a comfortable place where Iraqi Travellers cafe members can meet.
Cafe manager Aziz is also a member of the Facebook group and offers a discount to group members to diversify his clientele.
Two of his customers, Luke Heater and his girlfriend Paulie, both passionate adventurers from the US in their 30s, showed up unannounced at the cafe.
“Coming to Iraq has been like cleaning up and purifying the soul. Iraqis, with their quiet dignity and strong sense of service to guests, have elevated my faith in people. It’s incredible,” said Paulie, an actress who lives in New York.
“In spite of all the media woes, Iraq is a marvel – the crown jewel being its people. They are generous, kind, eager to please and make foreigners feel at home.”
Mr Mousa offered Paulie and Luke a tour of the city, visiting Baghdad’s traditional cafes, steeped in local history, through the narrow alleys off Al Rasheed Street where antique souvenirs can be found.
Luke bought old currency featuring Saddam Hussein’s picture, as well as a statue of a donkey which because of its age was missing an ear.
Paulie was given a box of decades-old matches made in Iraq, a gift offered by an antique shop owner.
“We were told ‘generosity runs in Iraqi’s genes’ and it’s evident. The amount of people who come up and say ‘hello’, ask if we need help and welcome us into their homes gives a warm feeling,” said Luke, who describes himself as an American with a need for adventure.
Almost every country visited by Luke and Paulie has a wealth of knowledge online about travel, what to do on arrival and where to stay. But when they were researching travel in Iraq, all Luke could find was the Travellers Cafe.
“Without that group I can honestly say there’s a good chance I wouldn’t be here right now. I can’t thank them enough. I’ve met countless people from that group who have done nothing but make my trip stress-free, but most of all fun,” Luke said.
Drinking freshly pressed grape juice from Haj Zbala was only one top tip for Luke and Paulie.
Located in the heart of Baghdad on Al Rasheed Street, the shop was founded in 1900 and is beautifully decorated with hundreds of pictures of Iraqi politicians, singers, writers and Arab presidents, patrons going back to the Ottoman era when it was founded.
“There are pictures of all the politicians who have gone to the Haj Zbala shop since 1900. This was quite symbolic to me, I found that Iraqis are able to separate politics from people,” Paulie said.
As she was enjoying the juice, a Baghdadi man realised they were foreigners.
“When you come to our country, the home is yours and we will be your guests,” he said, paraphrasing an old Iraqi saying.
“I feel a need to document these adventures and show the world what Iraq has to offer. Oh, and the visa on arrival played a huge part in choosing Iraq as a destination,” says Luke, in reference to new Iraqi government regulations that have improved the previously cumbersome visa application process.
“Our meetings have now been expanded across Iraq. We did another one in Kirkuk and in the coming days we'll be in south and north Iraq. One of the great impacts of our meetings is that it reminds us that Iraqis are not locals who are isolated from the globe, no ... they are a part of the world,” Mr Talal said.
Luke and Paulie were all set to book tickets back to New York but decided instead to extend their tour of Iraq to include Basra and Nasiriyah’s marshlands.
“We decided to expand our trip because Iraq surprised us. We had to experience more,” Paulie said.
In 2016, Unesco added Iraq’s southern marshes to its World Heritage list.
Once drained by Hussein in retribution for a local uprising, the marshes and their unique Marsh Arab culture were partially revived after 2003.
“Seeing the river buffalo was a ‘pinch me’ moment. Wildlife, marshes, old leaf houses and the singing by our boat driver Abu Haider was an unforgettable experience,” said Luke.
Their visit to marshes came a day after exploring Basra, shopping and having lunch at the Sobat Cultural House where Iraqis serve guests simple, traditional Basrawi cuisine as well as more well-known dishes like biryani chicken.
At Sobat, Luke and Paulie learnt that Basra was known as "the Venice of the Middle East” because of its winding canals and decorative gondola-like boats.
Attention to the group has come from far and wide.
Noah Nguyen, a tourist from Vietnam, spent five days in Baghdad to discover the city, helped by advice from Iraqi Travellers cafe members.
“The guys helped me to find the hotel, telling me what I should do in Iraq. That was a great help,” he said.
“I would like to say to people, 'just come and visit and discover this country'. It is a beautiful country because of its people, its culture, its history, civilisation and food. Everything is amazing here. I feel that I am welcomed everywhere I go.”
Mr Mousa, Mr Talal and other cafe members accompanied Mr Nguyen to a traditional restaurant in Abu Nawas called Darbouna to taste Iraqi food.
“As a Vietnamese person, Iraqi food is not too spicy and it is good for the stomach. I liked masgouf, it is such a delicious dish and maybe this is something you can only have in Iraq,” he said, referring to the dish of carp grilled on an open fire.
He also ordered Kebba, a must-try traditional Iraqi dish.
“I used to travel to unusual destinations because there is much more to discover in these countries, so that's why Iraq is a very suitable destination for me,” he said.
After Baghdad, Mr Nguyen went to Mosul, the city which was under ISIS control from 2014 to 2017.
But violence in the city is now rare, with ISIS confined largely to remote rural areas.
Mr Nguyen’s biggest challenge was changing money, since he did not know where to go. But that was soon solved when he posted on Iraqi Travellers cafe.
Many of the cafe members helped him find an exchange office or to change his money and he was soon shopping in local markets.
“Nothing good will come in the world without change and I see a lot of change happening. In the coming years, I see a big movement happening here. The founders of Iraqi Travellers cafe, Ousama and Diyar, are prime examples of this. Even with the Iraqi passport, one of the world’s least recognised, they are helping Iraqis travel the world,” said Luke.
“It’s that type of resilience I see here that’s going to lead to great things.”
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Fifa Club World Cup quarter-final
Kashima Antlers 3 (Nagaki 49’, Serginho 69’, Abe 84’)
Guadalajara 2 (Zaldivar 03’, Pulido 90')
ELIO
Starring: Yonas Kibreab, Zoe Saldana, Brad Garrett
Directors: Madeline Sharafian, Domee Shi, Adrian Molina
Rating: 4/5
The%20specs
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Our legal consultant
Name: Dr Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
Results
6.30pm: Maiden Dh165,000 (Dirt) 1,200m
Winner: Barack Beach, Richard Mullen (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).
7.05pm: Handicap Dh170,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Way Of Wisdom, Connor Beasley, Satish Seemar.
7.40pm: Maiden Dh165,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner: Woodditton, Connor Beasley, Ahmad bin Harmash.
8.15pm: Handicap Dh185,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Secret Trade, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
8.50pm: Handicap Dh185,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Mark Of Approval, Antonio Fresu, Mahmood Hussain.
9.25pm: Handicap Dh165,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Tradesman, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
What can victims do?
Always use only regulated platforms
Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion
Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)
Report to local authorities
Warn others to prevent further harm
Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
Blackpink World Tour [Born Pink] In Cinemas
Starring: Rose, Jisoo, Jennie, Lisa
Directors: Min Geun, Oh Yoon-Dong
Rating: 3/5
Disclaimer
Director: Alfonso Cuaron
Stars: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Kline, Lesley Manville
Rating: 4/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed
FIGHT%20CARD
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COMPANY PROFILE
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
Sanju
Produced: Vidhu Vinod Chopra, Rajkumar Hirani
Director: Rajkumar Hirani
Cast: Ranbir Kapoor, Vicky Kaushal, Paresh Rawal, Anushka Sharma, Manish’s Koirala, Dia Mirza, Sonam Kapoor, Jim Sarbh, Boman Irani
Rating: 3.5 stars
RACE CARD
6.30pm: Baniyas Group 2 (PA) Dh 97,500 (Dirt) 1,400m.
7.05pm Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,200m
7.40pm Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,400m
8.15pm Handicap (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,400m
8.50pm Rated Conditions (TB) Dh 120,000 (D) 1,600m
9.25pm Handicap (TB) Dh 95,000 (D) 1,200m
10pm Handicap (TB) Dh 85,000 (D) 2,000m
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylturbo
Transmission: seven-speed DSG automatic
Power: 242bhp
Torque: 370Nm
Price: Dh136,814
UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
Teaching your child to save
Pre-school (three - five years)
You can’t yet talk about investing or borrowing, but introduce a “classic” money bank and start putting gifts and allowances away. When the child wants a specific toy, have them save for it and help them track their progress.
Early childhood (six - eight years)
Replace the money bank with three jars labelled ‘saving’, ‘spending’ and ‘sharing’. Have the child divide their allowance into the three jars each week and explain their choices in splitting their pocket money. A guide could be 25 per cent saving, 50 per cent spending, 25 per cent for charity and gift-giving.
Middle childhood (nine - 11 years)
Open a bank savings account and help your child establish a budget and set a savings goal. Introduce the notion of ‘paying yourself first’ by putting away savings as soon as your allowance is paid.
Young teens (12 - 14 years)
Change your child’s allowance from weekly to monthly and help them pinpoint long-range goals such as a trip, so they can start longer-term saving and find new ways to increase their saving.
Teenage (15 - 18 years)
Discuss mutual expectations about university costs and identify what they can help fund and set goals. Don’t pay for everything, so they can experience the pride of contributing.
Young adulthood (19 - 22 years)
Discuss post-graduation plans and future life goals, quantify expenses such as first apartment, work wardrobe, holidays and help them continue to save towards these goals.
* JP Morgan Private Bank
THREE
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RESULTS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,200m
Winner: Shafaf, Sam Hitchcott (jockey), Ahmed Al Mehairbi (trainer)
5,30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 1,200m
Winner: Noof KB, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
6pm: The President’s Cup Listed (TB) Dh380,000 1,400m
Winner: Taamol, Jim Crowley, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
6.30pm: The President’s Cup Group One (PA) Dh2,500,000 2,200m
Winner: Rmmas, Tadhg O’Shea, Jean de Roualle
7pm: Arabian Triple Crown Listed (PA) Dh230,000 1,600m
Winner: Ihtesham, Szczepan Mazur, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami
7.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m
Winner: AF Mekhbat, Antonio Fresu, Ernst Oertel
2020 Oscars winners: in numbers
- Parasite – 4
- 1917– 3
- Ford v Ferrari – 2
- Joker – 2
- Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood – 2
- American Factory – 1
- Bombshell – 1
- Hair Love – 1
- Jojo Rabbit – 1
- Judy – 1
- Little Women – 1
- Learning to Skateboard in a Warzone (If You're a Girl) – 1
- Marriage Story – 1
- Rocketman – 1
- The Neighbors' Window – 1
- Toy Story 4 – 1
8 UAE companies helping families reduce their carbon footprint
Greenheart Organic Farms
This Dubai company was one of the country’s first organic farms, set up in 2012, and it now delivers a wide array of fruits and vegetables grown regionally or in the UAE, as well as other grocery items, to both Dubai and Abu Dhabi doorsteps.
www.greenheartuae.com
Modibodi
Founded in Australia, Modibodi is now in the UAE with waste-free, reusable underwear that eliminates the litter created by a woman’s monthly cycle, which adds up to approximately 136kgs of sanitary waste over a lifetime.
www.modibodi.ae
The Good Karma Co
From brushes made of plant fibres to eco-friendly storage solutions, this company has planet-friendly alternatives to almost everything we need, including tin foil and toothbrushes.
www.instagram.com/thegoodkarmaco
Re:told
One Dubai boutique, Re:told, is taking second-hand garments and selling them on at a fraction of the price, helping to cut back on the hundreds of thousands of tonnes of clothes thrown into landfills each year.
www.shopretold.com
Lush
Lush provides products such as shampoo and conditioner as package-free bars with reusable tins to store.
www.mena.lush.com
Bubble Bro
Offering filtered, still and sparkling water on tap, Bubble Bro is attempting to ensure we don’t produce plastic or glass waste. Founded in 2017 by Adel Abu-Aysha, the company is on track to exceeding its target of saving one million bottles by the end of the year.
www.bubble-bro.com
Coethical
This company offers refillable, eco-friendly home cleaning and hygiene products that are all biodegradable, free of chemicals and certifiably not tested on animals.
www.instagram.com/coethical
Eggs & Soldiers
This bricks-and-mortar shop and e-store, founded by a Dubai mum-of-four, is the place to go for all manner of family products – from reusable cloth diapers to organic skincare and sustainable toys.
www.eggsnsoldiers.com
THE SPECS
Engine: 3.5-litre supercharged V6
Power: 416hp at 7,000rpm
Torque: 410Nm at 3,500rpm
Transmission: 6-speed manual
Fuel consumption: 10.2 l/100km
Price: Dh375,000
On sale: now
Emergency phone numbers in the UAE
Estijaba – 8001717 – number to call to request coronavirus testing
Ministry of Health and Prevention – 80011111
Dubai Health Authority – 800342 – The number to book a free video or voice consultation with a doctor or connect to a local health centre
Emirates airline – 600555555
Etihad Airways – 600555666
Ambulance – 998
Knowledge and Human Development Authority – 8005432 ext. 4 for Covid-19 queries
Read more from Johann Chacko
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
