In a run-down farmhouse deep in Lebanon’s Bekaa valley, a man with a greying beard wearing camouflage runs his hands delicately through a pile of pills.
The small, beige tablets are Captagon, an amphetamine that amid a suffocating economic collapse has become one of Lebanon’s most lucrative exports.
The man in camouflage is a Captagon producer and smuggler, one of many making a small fortune trading in the pills that are sold across the region.
He agreed to meet with The National in the Bekaa valley – rugged territory that has long been associated with the drug trade.
Captagon in the Middle East
Straddling the country’s eastern border with Syria, the valley has been a greenhouse for some of the most treasured hashish in the world.
The road leading up to the ancient ruins of Baalbek, a major tourist attraction in the valley, are flanked by fields of the tall green plant. Four-by-fours with blacked-out windows shuttle between non-descript farmhouses and suspicious children stare at unfamiliar faces.
This is Lebanon’s most important agricultural area, but it has now become a vast production house for a drug that is ravaging the region.
Known as the “poor man’s cocaine” by those who buy, sell and produce it, Captagon has been made in and smuggled through Lebanon for years – though few here have an appetite for it.
Earlier this year however, a shipment of pomegranates stuffed full of pills made the drug a household name in Lebanon after it was intercepted by customs officials in Saudi Arabia.
Until the pomegranate seizure in April, after which Saudi Arabia banned imports of fruit and vegetables from Lebanon, few in the country were aware of the scale of the trade in the tiny pills.
Such is the extent of Captagon smuggling and production in Lebanon today, that Saudi Arabia’s ambassador to Lebanon, Walid Al Bukhari, warned it could “drown” the Arab world.
Syria's drug production spills over into Lebanon
Retired Brigadier General Michel Shakour, a former head of Lebanon’s Central Anti-Narcotics Bureau, said that, in the later years of the war, Syrian drug producers have increasingly gone into business with individuals on the Lebanese side of the border, shifting production to areas in the Bekaa out of the control of the Lebanese state.
“Before the Syrian war, Lebanon used to act mostly as a conduit for Syrian production but after the conflict broke out in Syria, many production facilities were gradually moved to the Bekaa region,” Mr Shakour said.
Under the new model, Syrian producers “have entered into partnerships” with Lebanese smugglers, Mr Shakour explains. “Most of the drug production is then smuggled through Beirut port to markets such as Saudi Arabia.”
A smugglers' paradise
The man in the farmhouse goes by the name of Abu Nowaris, and he has been in this game a long time. A decade of producing and running Captagon has made him wise of an industry that has made him more money than he could have possibly imagined. He says he’s currently on a production hiatus, but he’ll fire up the rudimentary catering equipment that has already baked him a fortune again very soon.
Perhaps one of the reasons for its incredible proliferation is that Captagon is cheap, fast, and almost unbelievably easy to produce. “Let’s say you ordered a million pills. I can produce these in no time,” he boasts.
“24-48 hours and they will be packed and ready. If you ordered one hundred million pills – in five days, they’ll be packed. It doesn’t take a lot of time,” he says.
The real challenge for producers like Abu Nowaris is getting the drugs out of the country.
The appetite for Captagon in Lebanon is limited, but if the pills can make it to the Gulf, high demand means there is a great deal of money to be made.
“Production is easy. The dangerous part is the smuggling and this is where the challenge is.”
The pre-war days when Abu Nowaris would pack his pills into thick plastic bags, feed them to sheep, and pay shepherds to walk his drugs through Syria and Jordan to the Saudi border are long over, he said.
Today, the audacious tricks used to get Captagon out of the country reveal an arms race between the smugglers and the customs agents working to catch them.
Sheltered from the pounding summer sun of the Bekaa, the aged-smuggler described how he once paid off a farmer and placed small plastic bags loaded with pills on top of the newly planted seeds of a cabbage crop.
It was painstaking work. Several weeks later he returned to see the cabbages had grown around the pills, hiding the Captagon within the vegetables – a near-perfect form of camouflage. All that was left was to do was ship his cabbages to a receiver in Saudi Arabia.
Recent interceptions have found millions of pills hidden in everything from diesel generators to sheets of metal and fruit and vegetable shipments.
A collapsing state
Under pressure from Saudi Arabia, Lebanese authorities claim to have launched a crackdown on the drug’s production and transport.
But despite limited victories, those on both sides of this war admit the state has barely been able to make a dent in the country’s production and smuggling networks.
“The government doesn’t have the power to control it all. Now they are trying to clean their image in the eyes of Saudi Arabia. They cannot destroy the whole industry. Out of every ten drug dealers, they’ll catch maybe three. Out of ten shipments, they might catch three,” said Abu Nowaris.
The sentiment that Lebanese officials are constantly playing catch up is echoed by regional and Lebanese officials. One GCC diplomat told The National: “We banned fruit and vegetables. We can’t ban everything, it’s not realistic”.
Meanwhile, Gen Shakour says the key to fighting the Captagon trade is raiding production facilities.
But undertaking raids “requires the state to exercise its authority over all its territory,” Mr Shakour said.
This is barely achievable for Lebanon’s security forces, which have not been spared from Lebanon’s economic crisis.
Salaries in the army, police, and customs departments have shrunk by more than 90 per cent, leaving officials more vulnerable than ever to the lure of a bribe.
Compounding the problem, most areas of production and the vital nodes in the smuggling networks lie outside of the government’s de-facto jurisdiction.
“Collecting and analysing information is key to the success of security forces in cracking down on the drug trade,” said Gen Shakour.
“The fact that security forces are stretched too thin due to the crisis and security instability is also facilitating the trade,” he said.
Though they are on opposite sides of the war, both officials and smugglers appear to agree, the chances of Lebanon bringing its Captagon problem under control anytime soon is unlikely.
Lebanon is facing a financial crisis, it has an army unable to feed its soldiers and growing unrest to deal with in streets across the country.
Regardless of what the international community has to say, Beirut’s priorities lie elsewhere.
As the gruff Abu Nowaris says, “They will never completely stop it. They might catch me, but there will always be someone else. There’s too much money to be made.”
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
Expert input
If you had all the money in the world, what’s the one sneaker you would buy or create?
“There are a few shoes that have ‘grail’ status for me. But the one I have always wanted is the Nike x Patta x Parra Air Max 1 - Cherrywood. To get a pair in my size brand new is would cost me between Dh8,000 and Dh 10,000.” Jack Brett
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“There’s nothing out there yet that I’d pay an insane amount for, but I’d love to create my own shoe with Tinker Hatfield and Jordan.” Joshua Cox
“I think I’d buy a defunct footwear brand; I’d like the challenge of reinterpreting a brand’s history and changing options.” Kris Balerite
“I’d stir up a creative collaboration with designers Martin Margiela of the mixed patchwork sneakers, and Yohji Yamamoto.” Hussain Moloobhoy
“If I had all the money in the world, I’d live somewhere where I’d never have to wear shoes again.” Raj Malhotra
The five pillars of Islam
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
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- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
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Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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NEW ARRIVALS
Benjamin Mendy (Monaco) - £51.75m (Dh247.94m)
Kyle Walker (Tottenham Hotspur) - £45.9m
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Danilo (Real Madrid) - £27m
Douglas Luiz (Vasco de Gama) - £10.8m
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 2 (Mahrez 04', Ake 84')
Leicester City 5 (Vardy 37' pen, 54', 58' pen, Maddison 77', Tielemans 88' pen)
Man of the match: Jamie Vardy (Leicester City)
Blackpink World Tour [Born Pink] In Cinemas
Starring: Rose, Jisoo, Jennie, Lisa
Directors: Min Geun, Oh Yoon-Dong
Rating: 3/5
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Company profile
Name: Oulo.com
Founder: Kamal Nazha
Based: Dubai
Founded: 2020
Number of employees: 5
Sector: Technology
Funding: $450,000
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6.30pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group 1 (PA) Dh119,373 (Dirt) 1,600m
7.05pm Handicap (TB) Dh102,500 (D) 1,200m
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Five expert hiking tips
Always check the weather forecast before setting off
Make sure you have plenty of water
Set off early to avoid sudden weather changes in the afternoon
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
Take your litter home with you
UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
THE DETAILS
Solo: A Star Wars Story
Dir: Ron Howard
Starring: Alden Ehrenreich, Emilia Clarke, Woody Harrelson
3/5
WOMAN AND CHILD
Director: Saeed Roustaee
Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi
Rating: 4/5
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
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Common OCD symptoms and how they manifest
Checking: the obsession or thoughts focus on some harm coming from things not being as they should, which usually centre around the theme of safety. For example, the obsession is “the building will burn down”, therefore the compulsion is checking that the oven is switched off.
Contamination: the obsession is focused on the presence of germs, dirt or harmful bacteria and how this will impact the person and/or their loved ones. For example, the obsession is “the floor is dirty; me and my family will get sick and die”, the compulsion is repetitive cleaning.
Orderliness: the obsession is a fear of sitting with uncomfortable feelings, or to prevent harm coming to oneself or others. Objectively there appears to be no logical link between the obsession and compulsion. For example,” I won’t feel right if the jars aren’t lined up” or “harm will come to my family if I don’t line up all the jars”, so the compulsion is therefore lining up the jars.
Intrusive thoughts: the intrusive thought is usually highly distressing and repetitive. Common examples may include thoughts of perpetrating violence towards others, harming others, or questions over one’s character or deeds, usually in conflict with the person’s true values. An example would be: “I think I might hurt my family”, which in turn leads to the compulsion of avoiding social gatherings.
Hoarding: the intrusive thought is the overvaluing of objects or possessions, while the compulsion is stashing or hoarding these items and refusing to let them go. For example, “this newspaper may come in useful one day”, therefore, the compulsion is hoarding newspapers instead of discarding them the next day.
Source: Dr Robert Chandler, clinical psychologist at Lighthouse Arabia
Specs%3A%202024%20McLaren%20Artura%20Spider
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Results
Men's finals
45kg:Duc Le Hoang (VIE) beat Zolfi Amirhossein (IRI) points 29-28. 48kg: Naruephon Chittra (THA) beat Joseph Vanlalhruaia (IND) TKO round 2.
51kg: Sakchai Chamchit (THA) beat Salam Al Suwaid (IRQ) TKO round 1. 54kg: Veerasak Senanue (THA) beat Huynh Hoang Phi (VIE) 30-25.
57kg: Almaz Sarsembekov (KAZ) beat Tak Chuen Suen (MAC) RSC round 3. 60kg: Yerkanat Ospan (KAZ) beat Ibrahim Bilal (UAE) 30-27.
63.5kg: Abil Galiyev (KAZ) beat Nouredine Samir (UAE) 29-28. 67kg: Narin Wonglakhon (THA) beat Mohammed Mardi (UAE) 29-28.
71kg: Amine El Moatassime (UAE) w/o Shaker Al Tekreeti (IRQ). 75kg: Youssef Abboud (LBN) w/o Ayoob Saki (IRI).
81kg: Ilyass Habibali (UAE) beat Khaled Tarraf (LBN) 29-28. 86kg: Ali Takaloo (IRI) beat Emil Umayev (KAZ) 30-27.
91kg: Hamid Reza Kordabadi (IRI) beat Mohamad Osaily (LBN) RSC round 1. 91-plus kg: Mohammadrezapoor Shirmohammad (IRI) beat Abdulla Hasan (IRQ) 30-27.
Women's finals
45kg: Somruethai Siripathum (THA) beat Ha Huu Huynh (VIE) 30-27. 48kg: Thanawan Thongduang (THA) beat Colleen Saddi (PHI) 30-27.
51kg: Wansawang Srila Or (THA) beat Thuy Phuong Trieu (VIE) 29-28. 54kg: Ruchira Wongsriwo (THA) beat Zeinab Khatoun (LBN) 30-26.
57kg: Sara Idriss (LBN) beat Zahra Nasiri Bargh (IRI) 30-27. 60kg: Kaewrudee Kamtakrapoom (THA) beat Sedigheh Hajivand (IRI) TKO round 2.
63.5kg: Nadiya Moghaddam (IRI) w/o Reem Al Issa (JOR).
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
SERIE A FIXTURES
Saturday Benevento v Atalanta (2pm), Genoa v Bologna (5pm), AC Milan v Torino (7.45pm)
Sunday Roma v Inter Milan (3.30pm), Udinese v Napoli, Hellas Verona v Crotone, Parma v Lazio (2pm), Fiorentina v Cagliari (9pm), Juventus v Sassuolo (11.45pm)
Monday Spezia v Sampdoria (11.45pm)
