Farmers have been cultivating wheat for centuries in the historic Jezreel valley, near the Palestinian Jenin refugee camp that was the target of a major Israeli offensive last week.
The attack in the occupied West Bank killed 12 Palestinians and destroyed large parts of the camp, drawing messages of sympathy and support from Jordan and other Arab countries.
Despite a century of upheaval, including the latest bout of violence, two food staples – freekeh and zaatar – continue to make their way from the Palestinian territories, particularly Jenin, to Jordan.
It is rare to find a kitchen cupboard in Amman's middle class homes that does not have freekeh, a roasted green wheat used as an alternative to rice, from Jenin.
Jordan’s society and politics are intertwined with Palestine, with economic and family links predating the kingdom's founding as a British protectorate in 1921.
Enduring links remain with areas that ancestors of many Jordanians fled from, when Israel was founded in 1948.
The roasting of freekeh is done following an old method of setting fire to the freshly harvested crop while it's in the fields.
“We only have Jenin freekeh. It's the best,” says Ahmad, one of the brothers operating Matouk, a renowned family spice business in the Sweifieh commercial quarter of Amman.
He says the Jenin variety, at $4.50 per kilo, is considered superior to Egyptian freekeh, which sells in supermarkets for about $1.50 per kilo, or 66 per cent less.
“It also does not have stones,” he says.
Luckily for spice suppliers, the freekeh season in Jenin was in April, before the Israeli offensive could have disrupted supply.
Stocks in Jordan from Jenin will last until next season, says the manager at another spice shop, adding that freekeh can be stored two years.
“We are OK for now but anything is possible next year,” he says.
When cooking, freekeh can be lightly fried in a pan, before water that has been prepared with chicken broth and spices is slowly added to it. The pan is covered afterwards with a cloth for moisture to set in. The process has to be performed gradually, to avoid the freekeh becoming 'mukhabsah', or putty.
In its purist form, freekeh is eaten alone or on the side of qallayet bandora – a simple mix of pan fried tomatoes, onions, garlic and hot green peppers, garnished with salt and pepper.
It also goes well with chicken.
Mansaf, a traditional meal in Jordan and Syria made with jameed (dry cheese sauce) is often made with freekeh and chicken, instead of rice and mutton.
At Khaldoun Kabatilo, a nearby spice shop, Jenin freekeh is sold next to Turkish freekeh, which is more expensive.
“Buy the Jenin one,” a staff member tells a customer. “It is even roasted better. You can tell from the colour.”
Another staple coveted for being sourced from Jenin is zaatar, a mixture of crushed dried thyme and condiments. The thyme is imported from the Palestinian farmers before traders in Jordan and elsewhere add their own recipes to it.
The more condiments added to it, such as dried chickpeas and sesame, the less expensive the zaatar is. The high-end mix, which sells for $13 to $16 a kilo, only consists of thyme and a dash of sumac, a red spice that is tangy and sweet.
Zaatar is eaten with bread and olive oil, which Jenin is also famous for.
But relatively few people in Jordan know how it tastes, because of restrictions to protect domestic olive production. Sometimes, though, Jenin residents send their relatives some of the oil in bottles across the Allenby Bridge, which links Jordan with the West Bank.
The latest official data shows that Palestinian exports to Jordan were $66 million in 2021, a 31 increase compared with the year before.
Jordanian exports to Palestine increased 23 per cent to $185 million in the same period.
Firas Herbawi, one of the largest importers of Jenin zaatar in Jordan, says that it comes from the highlands and the supply has not been affected by the violence.
“There will be always Jenin zaatar,” he says.
Infiniti QX80 specs
Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6
Power: 450hp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000
Available: Now
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
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GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
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Transmission: 8-speed auto
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Price: From Dh149,900
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The Melbourne Mercer Global Pension Index
The Melbourne Mercer Global Pension Index
Mazen Abukhater, principal and actuary at global consultancy Mercer, Middle East, says the company’s Melbourne Mercer Global Pension Index - which benchmarks 34 pension schemes across the globe to assess their adequacy, sustainability and integrity - included Saudi Arabia for the first time this year to offer a glimpse into the region.
The index highlighted fundamental issues for all 34 countries, such as a rapid ageing population and a low growth / low interest environment putting pressure on expected returns. It also highlighted the increasing popularity around the world of defined contribution schemes.
“Average life expectancy has been increasing by about three years every 10 years. Someone born in 1947 is expected to live until 85 whereas someone born in 2007 is expected to live to 103,” Mr Abukhater told the Mena Pensions Conference.
“Are our systems equipped to handle these kind of life expectancies in the future? If so many people retire at 60, they are going to be in retirement for 43 years – so we need to adapt our retirement age to our changing life expectancy.”
Saudi Arabia came in the middle of Mercer’s ranking with a score of 58.9. The report said the country's index could be raised by improving the minimum level of support for the poorest aged individuals and increasing the labour force participation rate at older ages as life expectancies rise.
Mr Abukhater said the challenges of an ageing population, increased life expectancy and some individuals relying solely on their government for financial support in their retirement years will put the system under strain.
“To relieve that pressure, governments need to consider whether it is time to switch to a defined contribution scheme so that individuals can supplement their own future with the help of government support,” he said.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESmartCrowd%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2018%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESiddiq%20Farid%20and%20Musfique%20Ahmed%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDubai%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFinTech%20%2F%20PropTech%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInitial%20investment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%24650%2C000%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECurrent%20number%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2035%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESeries%20A%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EVarious%20institutional%20investors%20and%20notable%20angel%20investors%20(500%20MENA%2C%20Shurooq%2C%20Mada%2C%20Seedstar%2C%20Tricap)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Best Foreign Language Film nominees
Capernaum (Lebanon)
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Shoplifters (Japan)
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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Brief scores:
Arsenal 4
Xhaka 25', Lacazette 55', Ramsey 79', Aubameyang 83'
Fulham 1
Kamara 69'
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The years Ramadan fell in May
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
LIVERPOOL%20TOP%20SCORERS
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UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
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Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
Sweet%20Tooth
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The view from The National
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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Chatham House Rule
A mark of Chatham House’s influence 100 years on since its founding, was Moscow’s formal declaration last month that it was an “undesirable
organisation”.
The depth of knowledge and academics that it drew on
following the Ukraine invasion had broadcast Mr Putin’s chicanery.
The institute is more used to accommodating world leaders,
with Nelson Mandela, Margaret Thatcher among those helping it provide
authoritative commentary on world events.
Chatham House was formally founded as the Royal Institute of
International Affairs following the peace conferences of World War One. Its
founder, Lionel Curtis, wanted a more scientific examination of international affairs
with a transparent exchange of information and ideas.
That arena of debate and analysis was enhanced by the “Chatham
House Rule” states that the contents of any meeting can be discussed outside Chatham
House but no mention can be made identifying individuals who commented.
This has enabled some candid exchanges on difficult subjects
allowing a greater degree of free speech from high-ranking figures.
These meetings are highly valued, so much so that
ambassadors reported them in secret diplomatic cables that – when they were
revealed in the Wikileaks reporting – were thus found to have broken the rule. However,
most speeches are held on the record.
Its research and debate has offered fresh ideas to
policymakers enabling them to more coherently address troubling issues from climate
change to health and food security.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
