What to expect at the biggest Dubai Watch Week yet

Dubai has quietly, then confidently, become one of the world’s most important centres for horological enthusiasts – a transformation carefully guided by watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi, which launched the first Dubai Watch Week a decade ago.

What began as a small gathering for collectors and watchmakers has evolved into a global meeting point for those passionate about timepieces – a place to explore the latest innovations, rare designs and the creative minds behind them.

Opening on Wednesday, the latest event of the biennial showcase moves to a new home at Dubai Mall’s Burj Park. The location – with views of Burj Khalifa and the city’s skyline – signals its growing stature, as does its scale.

This year’s fair is the largest yet, hosting more than 90 brands, an increase of 46 per cent that underlines Dubai’s rising influence within the watch world.

Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Chanel, Hublot, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tag Heuer are among those unveiling their latest creations, from Chanel’s J12 Bleu and Tag Heuer’s solargraph technology to the brand’s newly released Connected Calibre E5 – the fifth generation of its luxury smartwatch collection.

“The increasing interest from brands and partners ahead of this year’s edition has been rewarding and humbling as we further establish the Dubai Watch Week platform and continue to propel Dubai as a global destination,” says Hind Seddiqi, chief executive of Dubai Watch Week.

Alongside the major maisons are up-and-coming independent brands and artisans. The event continues to act as an incubator for smaller names such as Norqain, ArtyA, Raketa, David Candaux – which brings its DC12 Maverik – and Studio Underdog, the British brand known for its playful aesthetic and distinctive dials. It describes its creations as “serious watches for serious collectors (who don’t take themselves too seriously)”, a motto that captures the new energy reshaping modern watch culture.

Swiss brand Norqain leads its showcase with the Wild One Skeleton, a 42mm model featuring the Sellita SW200 movement, now joined by a sleek 39mm version. The Freedom 60 Chrono “Enjoy Life” and a new orange Skeleton 8K Chrono 42mm add even more colour and character to the line-up.

The Ahmed Seddiqi family’s retail empire – from humble beginnings to one of the world’s most respected watch retailers – has long been central to Dubai’s horological rise.

Over 75 years, the group has introduced the region to some of the world’s most prestigious names, including Rolex, Patek Philippe and Chopard. This milestone anniversary has inspired a wave of limited editions in tribute to Seddiqi’s legacy, each designed to capture the collector’s imagination.

At the heart of Dubai Watch Week, the Collector’s Lounge will house these commemorative pieces. Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Ressence and Doxa all present Seddiqi-exclusive editions. Ulysse Nardin, for instance, has created a Diver [Air] Seddiqi edition, while Breitling celebrates the occasion with a limited run of 75 Avenger Automatic 42 Night Mission watches. Complete with a military strap, a scratch-resistant ceramic case and a carbon black dial, the model highlights the numerals “7” and “5” – a nod to Seddiqi’s 75th year.

Bovet’s contribution is particularly striking. The maison has produced two limited editions, including a seven-piece version of its world timer, the Récital 30, adorned in the colours of the UAE flag.

The Seddiqi name and the number 75 are engraved on the back, while Dubai appears in Arabic on the city roller and Arabic numerals mark the hours. Bovet’s second release, the Récital 12, features a rich blood jasper dial, underscoring the brand’s craftsmanship and artistry.

Audemars Piguet, celebrating its own 150th anniversary, will also draw attention with a groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo”. The model integrates both a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon – a technical feat that comes packed with patented innovations and a design language that remains unmistakably Royal Oak.

The Swiss West End Watch Company, one of the earliest to influence the Seddiqi family’s fascination with watches, pays homage with a two-piece tribute – a pocket watch and a wristwatch. The pocket edition is inspired by models originally designed for the Indian Army and Railways, featuring a white dial with Hindi numerals in red or black cartouches. The automatic wristwatch is based on the brand’s historic Reference 8152, long favoured by military officers and explorers, with a faceted sunray centre dial. Both models feature engraved 75th-anniversary casebacks.

Gerald Charles joins the celebration with a 20-piece Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin “Tiger’s Eye”, distinguished by a bronzed case and sand-toned rubber strap that makes the shimmering gold hues of the tiger’s eye dial come alive under light.

Among the event’s other notable unveilings is Louis Moinet’s Impulsion Titanium Green, a 12-piece limited-edition conceived especially for Dubai Watch Week. The chronograph, with an exposed movement and flying tourbillon, pays homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet and Louis Moinet – inventors of the tourbillon and chronograph respectively.

Parmigiani Fleurier will present fresh iterations of its minimalist Toric Petite Seconde in platinum and rose gold “Dune” cases, while Girard-Perregaux celebrates 50 years of its famed Laureato with the new Laureato Fifty.

Louis Vuitton is also making waves with the Monterey, a pebble-shaped watch that revisits the brand’s first wristwatches from 1988, designed by late Italian architect Gae Aulenti. Lug-free and crowned at 12 o’clock in a nod to pocket watches, the Monterey has smooth contours and a white enamel dial that evoke a sense of contemporary nostalgia. The train-track motif on the dial revives an original element from the 1980s design.

With more than 90 luxury brands showcasing everything from elegant dress watches to divers, field pieces and avant-garde collector editions, this year’s Dubai Watch Week promises to be a feast for enthusiasts. But beyond the spectacle lies the deeper purpose of the event: education.

Masterclasses will offer hands-on insight into the artistry of fine watchmaking. Bovet will guide attendees through the roller system of its Récital 30 world timer, while designer Fiona Kruger hosts a workshop on dial marquetry and composition through collage. Hermès, meanwhile, will open a window into its intricate leather marquetry – a painstaking craft used to embellish the maison’s most artistic dials.

The programme also brings together some of the industry’s most influential figures. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will appear in conversation with Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, chairman of Seddiqi Holding. A chief executive round-table featuring Georges Kern (Breitling), Ilaria Resta (Audemars Piguet), Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (co-president, Chopard) and Julien Tornare (Tag Heuer) promises to reveal candid insights into the world of Swiss watches. Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake media platforms, will curate a series of talks exploring the evolution of watch culture and the names who’ve shaped it.

In addition, Dubai Watch Week has signed a partnership with Bonhams as its lead auction house partner, which arrives in Dubai with a shared knowledge and experience of horology.

It’s remarkable to consider how far Dubai Watch Week has come in only seven events – from a handful of exhibitors in 2015 to a cornerstone date on the global watchmaking calendar. The achievement stands as a testament to the Seddiqi family’s vision, Dubai’s position as a global luxury capital and the enduring allure of mechanical mastery in an increasingly digital world.