“Shhh,” our guide whispers, commanding quiet as we ease up a dusty track an hour into our first game drive. My eyes dart, trying to catch whatever he’s seen on the horizon, scanning the scrub and the road ahead.
I get confirmation I’d make a terrible safari guide when, seconds later, I spot a male lion strolling down the middle of the track, only metres from our open-top Land Cruiser. At his side, a lioness locks eyes on our vehicle as it slows to a halt.
It’s a moment I’ll never forget – my first sight of the majestic big five in the wild. The feelings come all at once – calm in the presence of Africa’s greatest predator, disbelief at being so close and exhilaration that this is the beginning – one of six drives I am able to experience at Jumeirah Thanda Safari in South Africa.
Over the next three days, I get closer than I thought was possible to extraordinary wildlife, while learning about the park’s conservation programme and retreating each night to sprawling private villas managed by the famed Dubai hotel group.
Set within 16,500 hectares of private reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, the property is home to lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo, plus hyenas, zebras, impala and more than 500 bird species. Each day promises new tracking adventures to tick more animals off the list.
Our first drive begins with our guide, Amend, and tracker, Nhlanhla, asking what we hope to see. A car full of safari novices replies with a chorus of “lions”, while elephants, giraffes, rhinos and leopards quickly follow. Smiling, Amend tempers expectations: “It’s Zululand, not Disneyland,” he says, but promises to try.
As we enter the big five reserve – separate from the lodge area – Nhlanhla suddenly signals for Amend to stop. Hopping from his perch at the front, he spots a lion’s print in the dust and follows it for more than an hour.
It’s clear we’re in expert hands. Nhlanhla has been at Thanda 14 years, Amend since the past October. They work in sync, reading the land and each other. Traditional trackers, they follow dung, footprints and broken branches, and co-ordinate with other guides to share sightings.
Animal welfare is central here. A strict rule allows only two vehicles at any sighting, giving animals space and visitors rare moments of exclusivity. At times it feels like it is just us and the wild.
Drives run morning and evening, with stops for refreshments. After our first lion sighting, we pause to debrief, still buzzing. Sunset drives become my most treasured memories. Amend agrees: “It’s all about the sunrise, the sunsets and those unforgettable moments.”
Over three days, the thrill of seeing lions never wanes. I stumble on a lone lioness mid-sprint to the lodge for a bathroom break – nothing halts urgency like a big cat in your path. On the last day, we find a male with three females, springing to life when he scents a rival nearby. It’s like watching Planet Earth, but live.
As a first-timer, my illusions are quickly quashed. I thought animals were digitally tracked and easy to find. In truth, it’s hide-and-seek, the adrenalin peaking when after hours of waiting, something finally appears. The leopard was the only big five to stay elusive.
I also assumed elephants were easy to spot. Wrong. Despite their bulk, they vanish into greenery. Our sighting comes only after veering down an overgrown track Nhlanhla had never tried before. We hear branches snap, then finally a young bull emerges, enormous and blocking the road.
My last misconception was that it’s all about the big five. In reality, our guides were just as excited by the smaller creatures – from warthogs (immortalised by The Lion King’s Pumba) to plants and dazzling birds – as they were by lions or rhinos.
One thing didn’t surprise me: the emphasis on conservation. Rhino poaching is an ever-present threat, so the hotel has a strong team working on anti-poaching efforts. Endangered species such as rhinos and cheetahs are carefully monitored by dedicated staff.
At the lodge, we stay in a vast four-bedroom villa with a living room, terrace, communal firepits and a pool.
Villas can be booked privately or by the room, with facilities shared. Two daily game drives, three meals, snacks and select drinks are all included.
Each villa is privately owned, with mirrored layouts but distinct interiors. Ours has a fresh, Hamptons feel – crisp whites, canopied beds, light and airy spaces.
We visited in June, when it is winter time in South Africa, so I skipped a dip in the pool. But after early starts, nothing beats sitting on the outdoor lounge, breathing in the fresh reserve air and gazing at the endless green views. If a giraffe or warthog wandered by, it felt like the perfect extra.
Jumeirah Thanda Safari is a three-hour drive or a 60-minute helicopter ride from Durban’s King Shaka International Airport. From the UAE, Emirates operates daily direct flights between Dubai and Durban
Slow loris biog
From: Lonely Loris is a Sunda slow loris, one of nine species of the animal native to Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore
Status: Critically endangered, and listed as vulnerable on the International Union for Conservation of Nature red list due to growing demand in the global exotic pet trade. It is one of the most popular primate species found at Indonesian pet markets
Likes: Sleeping, which they do for up to 18 hours a day. When they are awake, they like to eat fruit, insects, small birds and reptiles and some types of vegetation
Dislikes: Sunlight. Being a nocturnal animal, the slow loris wakes around sunset and is active throughout the night
Superpowers: His dangerous elbows. The slow loris’s doe eyes may make it look cute, but it is also deadly. The only known venomous primate, it hisses and clasps its paws and can produce a venom from its elbow that can cause anaphylactic shock and even death in humans
David Haye record
Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4
DIVINE%20INTERVENTOIN
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Understand What Black Is
The Last Poets
(Studio Rockers)
No_One Ever Really Dies
N*E*R*D
(I Am Other/Columbia)
Five expert hiking tips
Always check the weather forecast before setting off
Make sure you have plenty of water
Set off early to avoid sudden weather changes in the afternoon
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
Take your litter home with you
A cryptocurrency primer for beginners
Cryptocurrency Investing for Dummies – by Kiana Danial
There are several primers for investing in cryptocurrencies available online, including e-books written by people whose credentials fall apart on the second page of your preferred search engine.
Ms Danial is a finance coach and former currency analyst who writes for Nasdaq. Her broad-strokes primer (2019) breaks down investing in cryptocurrency into baby steps, while explaining the terms and technologies involved.
Although cryptocurrencies are a fast evolving world, this book offers a good insight into the game as well as providing some basic tips, strategies and warning signs.
Begin your cryptocurrency journey here.
Available at Magrudy’s , Dh104
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Jeff Buckley: From Hallelujah To The Last Goodbye
By Dave Lory with Jim Irvin
Our legal consultants
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Where to buy
Limited-edition art prints of The Sofa Series: Sultani can be acquired from Reem El Mutwalli at www.reemelmutwalli.com
Need to know
The flights: Flydubai flies from Dubai to Kilimanjaro airport via Dar es Salaam from Dh1,619 return including taxes. The trip takes 8 hours.
The trek: Make sure that whatever tour company you select to climb Kilimanjaro, that it is a reputable one. The way to climb successfully would be with experienced guides and porters, from a company committed to quality, safety and an ethical approach to the mountain and its staff. Sonia Nazareth booked a VIP package through Safari Africa. The tour works out to $4,775 (Dh17,538) per person, based on a 4-person booking scheme, for 9 nights on the mountain (including one night before and after the trek at Arusha). The price includes all meals, a head guide, an assistant guide for every 2 trekkers, porters to carry the luggage, a cook and kitchen staff, a dining and mess tent, a sleeping tent set up for 2 persons, a chemical toilet and park entrance fees. The tiny ration of heated water provided for our bath in our makeshift private bathroom stall was the greatest luxury. A standard package, also based on a 4-person booking, works out to $3,050 (Dh11,202) per person.
When to go: You can climb Kili at any time of year, but the best months to ascend are January-February and September-October. Also good are July and August, if you’re tolerant of the colder weather that winter brings.
Do not underestimate the importance of kit. Even if you’re travelling at a relatively pleasant time, be geared up for the cold and the rain.
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Milestones on the road to union
1970
October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar.
December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.
1971
March 1: Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.
July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.
July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.
August 6: The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.
August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.
September 3: Qatar becomes independent.
November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.
November 29: At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.
November 30: Despite a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa.
November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties
December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.
December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.
December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.
What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
Our legal consultants
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
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NEW%20PRICING%20SCHEME%20FOR%20APPLE%20MUSIC%2C%20TV%2B%20AND%20ONE
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Read more about the coronavirus
The five pillars of Islam
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
MATCH INFO
Southampton 0
Manchester City 1 (Sterling 16')
Man of the match: Kevin de Bruyne (Manchester City)
QUALIFYING RESULTS
1. Max Verstappen, Netherlands, Red Bull Racing Honda, 1 minute, 35.246 seconds.
2. Valtteri Bottas, Finland, Mercedes, 1:35.271.
3. Lewis Hamilton, Great Britain, Mercedes, 1:35.332.
4. Lando Norris, Great Britain, McLaren Renault, 1:35.497.
5. Alexander Albon, Thailand, Red Bull Racing Honda, 1:35.571.
6. Carlos Sainz Jr, Spain, McLaren Renault, 1:35.815.
7. Daniil Kvyat, Russia, Scuderia Toro Rosso Honda, 1:35.963.
8. Lance Stroll, Canada, Racing Point BWT Mercedes, 1:36.046.
9. Charles Leclerc, Monaco, Ferrari, 1:36.065.
10. Pierre Gasly, France, Scuderia Toro Rosso Honda, 1:36.242.
Eliminated after second session
11. Esteban Ocon, France, Renault, 1:36.359.
12. Daniel Ricciardo, Australia, Renault, 1:36.406.
13. Sebastian Vettel, Germany, Ferrari, 1:36.631.
14. Antonio Giovinazzi, Italy, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:38.248.
Eliminated after first session
15. Antonio Giovinazzi, Italy, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:37.075.
16. Kimi Raikkonen, Finland, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:37.555.
17. Kevin Magnussen, Denmark, Haas Ferrari, 1:37.863.
18. George Russell, Great Britain, Williams Mercedes, 1:38.045.
19. Pietro Fittipaldi, Brazil, Haas Ferrari, 1:38.173.
20. Nicholas Latifi, Canada, Williams Mercedes, 1:38.443.
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