Two hours before Chanel’s haute couture show, the air around the Grand Palais is thick with anticipation. Backstage, hundreds of people move with clockwork precision, while at the Grand Cafe nearby, Bruno Pavlovsky sits improbably calm. He has lived through countless shows, yet the moment still stirs him.
“It’s always a big moment,” Chanel’s president of fashion says with quiet satisfaction. “This collection is amazing, a powerful collection. Couture is always special at Chanel, it’s in our DNA.”
For Pavlovsky, couture is not spectacle but essence – a reminder of what luxury means when freed from compromise. “In the execution everything has changed,” he says of the evolving landscape, “but the philosophy, the strategy, it’s always the same. Haute couture is pure design. There are no constraints. The designer delivers what they feel is most appropriate, the most impactful. It’s about creating something unique for clients.”
He speaks less like a businessman than a custodian of culture. “When you talk with the atelier, there are no limits. It’s about the designer and the artisans capable of delivering. It’s a very unique experience.”
Even though the show unfolds in Paris, couture follows the clients. “For couture, it is not the clients who are coming to Paris. Some of them are, but we are travelling everywhere. Starting next week, we go more or less everywhere,” he says.
Pavlovsky is famously steady, even when the luxury market falters. He shrugs at talk of slowdown. “I am always optimistic. In 2020, it was a big question mark,” he says of the pandemic. “Afterwards, there was an acceleration of growth and for us at Chanel, we more than doubled the business in three to four years. Quite a lot of new clients joined the boutique for the very first time.”
For him, a cooling market is healthy. “You cannot be at double-digit growth forever. Sometimes it’s good to see some adjustment. It obliges the brand to focus on the fundamentals and reimagine what the client experience must become.”
It’s that combination of pragmatism, optimism and enthusiasm that defines him. “When you offer the best to the client, when there is purpose in the collection, storytelling, when the products are well executed, when the orchestration is super well done … we can do amazing things.”
Couture, he insists, is always a tightrope walk between preservation and innovation. “This collection was a mix of both. You see embroidery, new fabrics, new ways of putting things together. There is space for both. But for me, it’s more about doing something outstanding.”
He repeats “unique” like a mantra, not a buzzword. Couture must resist sameness. And when asked about risk, he looks inward rather than outward. “The risk is always about scale. Our products are sophisticated. We are expensive, but we’re expensive because there is a lot of know-how in what we are doing. On top of that, our sustainability engagements make our product even more expensive.”
He acknowledges Chanel’s prices put it out of reach for most, yet he frames the brand as offering “a dream for all”. Recent campaigns with Jennie Kim and Dua Lipa play to that aspiration. “Every time we can engage and offer something amazing to all, it is important. We have to be realistic. Not everyone can access our product. The brand is the incarnation of ultimate luxury, so we must balance between offering a dream for everyone and knowing it is a dream for very few.”
What excites him most is talent – both in front of the camera and at the workbench. Pavlovsky is animated when talking about the new generation of craftspeople entering the métiers.
“Twenty years ago, 25 years ago, we were asking how to engage a new generation of craftspeople. It was challenging. Now when you visit [our ateliers] at Verneuil or 19M, the next generation is there. They’re super-excited and learning. We are attracting new talents. Now we need to give them a sense of comfort about their career.”
At Chanel’s ateliers, the transmission of knowledge is tangible. During a visit to the Verneuil-en-Halatte workshop, where the iconic handbags are made, I saw artisans with 40 years’ experience alongside those just starting. “The 11.12 is the most difficult bag to manufacture. When you are quite young, your first results are catastrophic. I have tried, it’s super-difficult,” he says with a laugh. The pride in his voice is unmistakable. It’s not about handbags. It’s about continuity, a craft passed hand to hand.
That continuity extends to care. The brand’s Chanel & Moi service restores old bags, unusual for a house that thrives on new sales. “Quite often, the bag is about transmission. You want to offer it to your daughter, your granddaughter, your friend. Sometimes it’s fixing small problems under guarantee. Sometimes it’s restoration. It’s a very special work.”
Another quiet battle Pavlovsky wages is keeping Chanel’s suppliers alive. Over the past few years, the maison has acquired or taken stakes in a string of specialist ateliers in France and Italy. Beyond finance, it is about safeguarding the future. “We want to continue to manufacture our product in 20 or 30 years. Covid was very difficult for most of our Italian suppliers. We realised that if we want them to continue to exist, we have to be with them. In 20 years, the challenge will not be to sell, it will be to manufacture. It’s not about control, it’s about ensuring these people continue to exist.”
If he sounds like a guardian of continuity, he is just as animated about change. Chanel enters a new era in October, with Matthieu Blazy presenting his first collection. Pavlovsky beams. “With Matthieu, we’re opening a new era. What is special with Chanel is it’s only the fourth time in the lifetime of the brand that we have a new designer. I love the guy. He’s super-talented, he loves the product, loves the craft, loves fashion. Only good vibes.”
The years Ramadan fell in May
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
The%20specs
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Squid Game season two
Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk
Stars: Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun
Rating: 4.5/5
The five pillars of Islam
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
More on animal trafficking
Other promotions
- Deliveroo will team up with Pineapple Express to offer customers near JLT a special treat: free banana caramel dessert with all orders on January 26
- Jones the Grocer will have their limited edition Australia Day menu available until the end of the month (January 31)
- Australian Vet in Abu Dhabi (with locations in Khalifa City A and Reem Island) will have a 15 per cent off all store items (excluding medications)
Zayed Sustainability Prize
The five pillars of Islam
RESULTS
Welterweight
Tohir Zhuraev (TJK) beat Mostafa Radi (PAL)
(Unanimous points decision)
Catchweight 75kg
Anas Siraj Mounir (MAR) beat Leandro Martins (BRA)
(Second round knockout)
Flyweight (female)
Manon Fiorot (FRA) beat Corinne Laframboise (CAN)
(RSC in third round)
Featherweight
Bogdan Kirilenko (UZB) beat Ahmed Al Darmaki
(Disqualification)
Lightweight
Izzedine Al Derabani (JOR) beat Rey Nacionales (PHI)
(Unanimous points)
Featherweight
Yousef Al Housani (UAE) beat Mohamed Fargan (IND)
(TKO first round)
Catchweight 69kg
Jung Han-gook (KOR) beat Max Lima (BRA)
(First round submission by foot-lock)
Catchweight 71kg
Usman Nurmogamedov (RUS) beat Jerry Kvarnstrom (FIN)
(TKO round 1).
Featherweight title (5 rounds)
Lee Do-gyeom (KOR) v Alexandru Chitoran (ROU)
(TKO round 1).
Lightweight title (5 rounds)
Bruno Machado (BRA) beat Mike Santiago (USA)
(RSC round 2).
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Ten10 Cricket League
Venue and schedule Sharjah Cricket Stadium, December 14 to 17
Teams
Maratha Arabians Leading player: Virender Sehwag; Top picks: Mohammed Amir, Imad Wasim; UAE players: Shaiman Anwar, Zahoor Khan
Bengal Lions Leading player: Sarfraz Ahmed; Top picks: Sunil Narine, Mustafizur Rahman; UAE players: Mohammed Naveed, Rameez Shahzad
Kerala Kings Leading player: Eoin Morgan; Top picks: Kieron Pollard, Sohail Tanvir; UAE players: Rohan Mustafa, Imran Haider
Pakhtoons Leading player: Shahid Afridi; Top picks: Fakhar Zaman, Tamim Iqbal; UAE players: Amjad Javed, Saqlain Haider
Punjabi Legends Leading player: Shoaib Malik; Top picks: Hasan Ali, Chris Jordan; UAE players: Ghulam Shabber, Shareef Asadullah
Team Sri Lanka Cricket Will be made up of Colombo players who won island’s domestic limited-overs competition
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
Hotel Silence
Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir
Pushkin Press
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Read more about the coronavirus
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The lowdown
Badla
Rating: 2.5/5
Produced by: Red Chillies, Azure Entertainment
Director: Sujoy Ghosh
Cast: Amitabh Bachchan, Taapsee Pannu, Amrita Singh, Tony Luke
ULTRA PROCESSED FOODS
- Carbonated drinks, sweet or savoury packaged snacks, confectionery, mass-produced packaged breads and buns
- Margarines and spreads; cookies, biscuits, pastries, cakes, and cake mixes, breakfast cereals, cereal and energy bars
- Energy drinks, milk drinks, fruit yoghurts and fruit drinks, cocoa drinks, meat and chicken extracts and instant sauces
- Infant formulas and follow-on milks, health and slimming products such as powdered or fortified meal and dish substitutes
- Many ready-to-heat products including pre-prepared pies and pasta and pizza dishes, poultry and fish nuggets and sticks, sausages, burgers, hot dogs, and other reconstituted meat products, powdered and packaged instant soups, noodles and desserts
The years Ramadan fell in May
Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The years Ramadan fell in May
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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