One of the most common criticisms levelled at Dubai is that it is superficial, or one-dimensional.
This is a relic from a time when perceptions of the city honed in on its mammoth malls, fancy restaurants, expensive cars and over-indulgent brunches, and refused to weave any of the city's other traits into that threadbare tapestry. And so Dubai was cast as a one-dimensional caricature: the ambitious, oil-rich metropolis where everyone drove a Lambo' and lived a lavish lifestyle.
There's that saying: "If you're bored, you're boring". Building on that premise, I'd suggest that: "If you think Dubai is lacking in breadth, it may be you who has a blinkered view."
Yes, of course some of the cliches are true. There are mammoth malls and fancy restaurants and expensive cars and over-indulgent brunches. Lots of them. But that's just one aspect of this multi-faceted city. I would hazard a guess that many of the people in the Dubai-is-so-superficial brigade have not spent much time riding horses across Mushrif Park, watching the flamingoes at Al Qudra Lakes, paddle boarding around the Burj Al Arab, haggling over a fresh catch at the Jumeirah Fishing Harbour, or wandering the streets of Bur Dubai.
This is a pastime that brings me particular joy. When I first moved to the UAE, the company I worked for put me up in a grotty serviced apartment on the edge of Bur Dubai. Anecdotally, it smelled like a mix of wet paint and butter chicken, which, I can confirm, is not a classic pairing. It did mean, however, that my very first experiences of Dubai life were the noisy, crowded, colourful streets of this entirely unfashionable but inordinately charming corner of the city. It was, and is, everything that "new Dubai" is not, and stands as proof that there is more to the city than meets the eye.
In the alleys of the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, art galleries hint at a creative scene that predates the trendier Al Serkal Avenue and Dubai Design District. It also offers a glimpse into old Emirati homes, replete with interior courtyards and statuesque wind towers. There is the wonderfully anachronistic Dubai Museum, which, last I checked, presented insight into the emirates' recent past, along with some truly terrible taxidermy. Just around the corner, a mosque sits directly across from Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva and Krishna, which are flanked by tiny shopfronts selling garlands of marigolds. In time-honoured tradition, the Bur Dubai souq throngs with entrepreneurial individuals who address any woman with blonde highlights as "Shakira".
Food connoisseurs know that they must head to Al Ustad, a Dubai icon that has been serving its "special kebabs" for the last four decades. It's interior is an intriguing combination of design styles - statement pieces include clocks (lots and lots of clocks, each telling a different time, for no reason that I can discern); first day covers featuring stamps from the GCC; bank notes from all around the world; and hundreds and hundreds of pictures of happy customers (including one of Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed Al Maktoum, the Crown Prince of Dubai). Like all the best restaurants in town, there are strict seating policies - the lunch shift lasts from 12 to 4 and there's a cordoned-off seating area for families. On our last visit, we paid exactly Dh75.60, including VAT, for succulent lamb kebabs perched atop mountains of rice, served with soup and soft drinks (including a wonderfully archaic Canada Dry cream soda).
For me, a trip to Bur Dubai invariably ends up on the shores of the creek. That's the original one, where it all started, not the 2.0 canal version. A table at Beyt Al Wakil offers a a ringside view of the waterway: enormous dhows laden with goods meander past as tiny abras weave around them, shuttling residents from one bank to the other. I like to imagine that it's a scene that has changed little since Dubai first came into existence. The smell of diesel hangs in the air and gulls swoop overhead. "Shakira, Shakira," whisper the smiling salesmen as the try to sell their shawls, trinkets and knock-off handbags.
A trip to Bur Dubai will tell you that this city is many things. Imperfect, maybe. At times alien and infuriating? Colourful, chaotic and charming? Yup. But one-dimensional? Definitely not.
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Read more from Selina:
Why ageing in Dubai is a particularly painful process
Maybe the sisterhood does exist, after all
How design can make or break a UAE restaurant
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Results
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (Turf) 2,200m, Winner: Zalman, Pat Cosgrave (jockey), Helal Al Alawi (trainer)
5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Hisham Al Khalediah II, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash.
6pm: Handicap (PA) Dh85,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Qader, Adrie de Vries, Jean de Roualle
6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Championship Listed (PA) Dh180,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Mujeeb, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel
7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: AF Majalis, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
7.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh90,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Shanaghai City, Fabrice Veron, Rashed Bouresly
8pm: Handicap (TB) Dh100,000 (T) 1,400m, Winner: Nayslayer, Bernardo Pinheiro, Jaber Ramadhan
The specs
Price: From Dh529,000
Engine: 5-litre V8
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Power: 520hp
Torque: 625Nm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.8L/100km
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
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Sanju
Produced: Vidhu Vinod Chopra, Rajkumar Hirani
Director: Rajkumar Hirani
Cast: Ranbir Kapoor, Vicky Kaushal, Paresh Rawal, Anushka Sharma, Manish’s Koirala, Dia Mirza, Sonam Kapoor, Jim Sarbh, Boman Irani
Rating: 3.5 stars
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
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F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
More on Quran memorisation:
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
Honeymoonish
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No more lice
Defining head lice
Pediculus humanus capitis are tiny wingless insects that feed on blood from the human scalp. The adult head louse is up to 3mm long, has six legs, and is tan to greyish-white in colour. The female lives up to four weeks and, once mature, can lay up to 10 eggs per day. These tiny nits firmly attach to the base of the hair shaft, get incubated by body heat and hatch in eight days or so.
Identifying lice
Lice can be identified by itching or a tickling sensation of something moving within the hair. One can confirm that a person has lice by looking closely through the hair and scalp for nits, nymphs or lice. Head lice are most frequently located behind the ears and near the neckline.
Treating lice at home
Head lice must be treated as soon as they are spotted. Start by checking everyone in the family for them, then follow these steps. Remove and wash all clothing and bedding with hot water. Apply medicine according to the label instructions. If some live lice are still found eight to 12 hours after treatment, but are moving more slowly than before, do not re-treat. Comb dead and remaining live lice out of the hair using a fine-toothed comb.
After the initial treatment, check for, comb and remove nits and lice from hair every two to three days. Soak combs and brushes in hot water for 10 minutes.Vacuum the floor and furniture, particularly where the infested person sat or lay.
Courtesy Dr Vishal Rajmal Mehta, specialist paediatrics, RAK Hospital
The National Archives, Abu Dhabi
Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.
Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en
Black Panther
Dir: Ryan Coogler
Starring: Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong'o
Five stars
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre turbo
Power: 181hp
Torque: 230Nm
Transmission: 6-speed automatic
Starting price: Dh79,000
On sale: Now
Company profile
Company name: Dharma
Date started: 2018
Founders: Charaf El Mansouri, Nisma Benani, Leah Howe
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: TravelTech
Funding stage: Pre-series A
Investors: Convivialite Ventures, BY Partners, Shorooq Partners, L& Ventures, Flat6Labs
