"The phrase 'high SPF' sounds reassuring, it's true, but the sense of security you feel is false," Dr Barbara Sturm loses no time in telling me. The German skincare expert, who is in town to launch her Molecular Cosmetics range at Harvey Nichols – Dubai this week, adds: "SPF is a misleading and therefore dangerous term; a product with this factor only refers to protection against UVB rays, which is not quite enough."
The science behind UV radiation
The sun transmits ultraviolet radiation in three wavelengths: the creatively dubbed UVA, UVB and UVC rays. The latter does not penetrate our planet’s atmosphere, so it’s irrelevant to the case being put forth here. UVB is most responsible for sunburn which, by extension, causes malignant melanoma and basal cell carcinoma (what Hugh Jackman suffered from), while UVA is associated with skin ageing. However, because not everyone is aware of UVA’s role, and not all sunscreens have the wherewithal to help shield us from it, prolonged exposure not only leads to wrinkles, pigmentation and coarse skin, but can also cause skin cancer. What Sturm and other experts now know is that a product with solar protection factor (SPF) has no impact whatsoever in protecting our skin from UVA rays.
That’s not to say that you should ditch that SPF 30 offering completely; rather, as with most other things these days, you need to read the small print when buying your next sunscreen, ideally before the full force of the UAE summer is upon us. And it’s not just for those who are constantly out and about, either. “UVA can penetrate glass, so it can get you in a windowed office or while you’re driving,” explains Sturm. “It is imperative to use a sunscreen technology that offers ‘broad-spectrum’ protection.”
A broad-spectrum solution targets both UVA and UVB rays. The latter can be monitored based on the SPF count – between 30 and 50 is recommended depending on your lifestyle: think commuting to the office versus spending time at the beach. The former is trickier, and requires a bit of calculation. Step one is to look out for the UVA star rating on a product's packaging; stars range from 0 to 5. This number indicates the percentage of UVA radiation absorbed by the sunscreen in comparison to UVB.
"In other words," states a report released by the British Association of Dermatologists, "[this is] the ratio between the level of protection afforded by the UVA protection and the UVB protection. Be aware that if you choose a low SPF, it may still have a high level of stars, not because it is providing a lot of UVA protection, but because the ratio between the UVA and UVB protection is about the same. That's why it's important to choose a high SPF as well as a high number of stars." In simpler terms, a sunscreen with SPF 30 and a UVA rating of four stars should fit the bill. Unless you spend your daylight hours out in the desert or at the beach. In that case, not only should you invest in SPF 50 and five stars, but also be very conscientious about application and reapplication.
Application tips
The recommended amount of sunscreen works out to about 2 milligrams per square centimetre of your skin's surface. For optimum protection to the face, the amount needed would cover the palm of your hand. "Most people are quite good at slathering products on their faces, but tend to miss the neck and ear area, which then become prone to carcinogenic nodules," says dermatologist Anita Hiranandani. "And even if you're wearing a pair of shorts or a top with sleeves, it's best to use sunscreen all over the body, not just on the exposed bits." Apply the product 20 minutes before you step out, so it has adequate time to create a barrier shield, and reapply every two hours if you're under the sun for that long. "If you are outside a lot, it is critical, especially in a strong-sun location like the UAE, to reapply a broad-spectrum sunscreen regularly, particularly after sweating or swimming," says Sturm.
“Even certain fabrics can diminish the impact the cream has on the skin. It also depends on what time of the day you are outside – the sun is 150 times stronger at noon than in the morning or evening,” she adds.
She’s not a fan of moisturisers or make-up that claim to double up as sunscreen. “Active UV filters and active skincare ingredients sitting in a product together degrade the effectiveness of both. I would always use sunscreen separately. It is safer to apply the skincare first, wait a few minutes for absorption, and then apply make-up. This way you have the full protective effect, without the mineral oils of the cosmetics to clog your pores, and you don’t smudge your make-up,” she explains.
Even the most effective sunscreen, however, is unlikely to offer full protection under the direct glare of the sun. It needs to be complemented by clothing, sunglasses, caps and umbrellas. Dr Lanalle Dunn, founder of Jumeirah's Chiron Clinic, suggests rash-guard apparel, which blocks UV rays. She adds: "Stay away from chemically laden sunscreens – those that include parabens, oxybenzone, octinoxate and titanium dioxide."
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Read more:
New Dubai abaya lets sunlight in to tackle Vitamin D deficiency
‘Toxic’ sunscreen warning after study finds chemical reaction with chlorine in pools
Mothers in UAE find choosing sunscreen is a conundrum
Do sunscreens do more harm than good?
____________________
Sunscreen pollution
Sunscreen pollution is another reason to avoid strong chemicals. Many activists are now pushing to ban products made up of marine-life-harming oxybenzone and octinoxate. According to Lisa Bishop, president of the Friends of Hanauma Bay organisation: "When people put these two chemicals on and they come into the ocean, the product washes off and stays floating in the water, and the corals are being killed by it." Some eco-friendly brands that come highly recommended include Colorescience, NYDG Skincare, La Roche-Posay, Dr Hauschka and Molecular Cosmetics, which carries photostable Sun Drops.
To tan or not to tan
Both types of UV radiation contribute to skin tanning, a condition actively and, research would suggest, insensibly sought out by hordes of people. A tan by any other name is damaged skin, according to the report by the British Association of Dermatologists. The skin is made up of a pigment called melanin, which gives our skin its natural colour. Exposure to sunlight causes an increase in the production of melanin that absorbs more UV radiation, causing the skin to become darker, usually temporarily. “A tan is actually a sign that the skin has been damaged and is trying to protect itself,” suggests the report.
“This is not to say that one should avoid the sun completely,” cautions Dunn. “Research shows that non- smokers who avoided the sun had a life expectancy similar to smokers in the highest sun exposure group, indicating that avoidance is a risk factor for death of a similar magnitude as smoking. The cardioprotective benefits of sun exposure are partly due to nitric oxide, which aids in lowering blood pressure. Nitric oxide is only released into the bloodstream with direct sunlight exposure and not with simply taking Vitamin D supplementation.”
Tanned or otherwise damaged skin can be treated by getting skin treatments such as hydrating facials, radiofrequency to tighten the skin, photodynamic therapy and fractional laser treatments. However, these should be looked upon as more prevention than cure. When it comes to avoiding sun damage, a daily threat, your first port of call should be an effective sunscreen – one that's about more than just SPF; it's a product that needs research and responsible usage. After all, if Wolverine had to battle cancer six times, there's no guarantee that any of us is immune to it.
ABU%20DHABI'S%20KEY%20TOURISM%20GOALS%3A%20BY%20THE%20NUMBERS
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THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)
Power: 141bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh64,500
On sale: Now
Match info
Uefa Nations League A Group 4
England 2 (Lingard 78', Kane 85')
Croatia 1 (Kramaric 57')
Man of the match: Harry Kane (England)
BACK%20TO%20ALEXANDRIA
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ETamer%20Ruggli%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENadine%20Labaki%2C%20Fanny%20Ardant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Pros%20and%20cons%20of%20BNPL
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'
Rating: 1 out of 4
Running time: 81 minutes
Director: David Blue Garcia
Starring: Sarah Yarkin, Elsie Fisher, Mark Burnham
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
Sukuk
An Islamic bond structured in a way to generate returns without violating Sharia strictures on prohibition of interest.
'The%20Alchemist's%20Euphoria'
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EArtist%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Kasabian%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ELabel%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EColumbia%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The%20new%20Turing%20Test
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The rules on fostering in the UAE
A foster couple or family must:
- be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
- not be younger than 25 years old
- not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
- be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
- have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
- undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
- A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially
THE BIO
Ms Al Ameri likes the variety of her job, and the daily environmental challenges she is presented with.
Regular contact with wildlife is the most appealing part of her role at the Environment Agency Abu Dhabi.
She loves to explore new destinations and lives by her motto of being a voice in the world, and not an echo.
She is the youngest of three children, and has a brother and sister.
Her favourite book, Moby Dick by Herman Melville helped inspire her towards a career exploring the natural world.
Sreesanth's India bowling career
Tests 27, Wickets 87, Average 37.59, Best 5-40
ODIs 53, Wickets 75, Average 33.44, Best 6-55
T20Is 10, Wickets 7, Average 41.14, Best 2-12
European arms
Known EU weapons transfers to Ukraine since the war began: Germany 1,000 anti-tank weapons and 500 Stinger surface-to-air missiles. Luxembourg 100 NLAW anti-tank weapons, jeeps and 15 military tents as well as air transport capacity. Belgium 2,000 machine guns, 3,800 tons of fuel. Netherlands 200 Stinger missiles. Poland 100 mortars, 8 drones, Javelin anti-tank weapons, Grot assault rifles, munitions. Slovakia 12,000 pieces of artillery ammunition, 10 million litres of fuel, 2.4 million litres of aviation fuel and 2 Bozena de-mining systems. Estonia Javelin anti-tank weapons. Latvia Stinger surface to air missiles. Czech Republic machine guns, assault rifles, other light weapons and ammunition worth $8.57 million.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
UAE SQUAD
Ali Khaseif, Mohammed Al Shamsi, Fahad Al Dhanhani, Khalid Essa, Bandar Al Ahbabi, Salem Rashid, Shaheen Abdulrahman, Khalifa Al Hammadi, Mohammed Al Attas, Walid Abbas, Hassan Al Mahrami, Mahmoud Khamis, Alhassan Saleh, Ali Salmeen, Yahia Nader, Abdullah Ramadan, Majed Hassan, Abdullah Al Naqbi, Fabio De Lima, Khalil Al Hammadi, Khalfan Mubarak, Tahnoun Al Zaabi, Muhammed Jumah, Yahya Al Ghassani, Caio Canedo, Ali Mabkhout, Sebastian Tagliabue, Zayed Al Ameri
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
French Touch
Carla Bruni
(Verve)
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
Manchester United v Club America
When: Thursday, 9pm Arizona time (Friday UAE, 8am)
The specs: 2019 BMW X4
Price, base / as tested: Dh276,675 / Dh346,800
Engine: 3.0-litre turbocharged in-line six-cylinder
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 354hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 500Nm @ 1,550rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 9.0L / 100km
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The%C2%A0specs%20
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Company%20Profile
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