I was in a rut. I had eaten too many chocolate biscuits and watched too many Netflix box sets curled up on the sofa with my cats. The result was an expanded body but shrunken soul.
What I needed was an adventure and, as I am by nature an extremist, I hunted around for something that was way outside of my comfort zone. I found it: the Everest Trail Race ultramarathon; six days running around the world’s highest mountain semi self-supported with 15,000 metres of ascent. If you can imagine climbing a 15-kilometre ladder while struggling to breathe, then you get the idea. I signed on the dotted line.
At the time, I was living in Essaouira on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, which is home to long beaches, pleasant squares filled with would-be Bob Marleys, a fabulous souq with the best range of olives in the world and an excellent Italian gelateria. Wonderful, but absolutely no use for training at high altitude. So I decided to move to the Atlas Mountains, to the small village of Imlil, which lies at the base of Mount Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak at 4,167 metres.
In Morocco, everything is personal, and I asked my hiking guide friends in the area if they knew of anywhere to stay. Hassan said: "Yes, Hajj Brahim has a small house with his family. He will treat you well. He is a very good and honest man.” Six weeks later I moved in.
Moving was a foretaste of what my life would be like. I rolled up with my lorry to be met by Hasan, six strong men, a mule and an assortment of young boys. Already at altitude and with my house a few hundred metres away up a steep goat track, I puffed and sweated as I carried up my ironing board and a box of shoes.
“Alice, it is better if you go and sit in the cafe and have some tea, and we will do this,” Hassan told me. As I watched, the men loaded the washing machine onto the mule and the boys scampered around with vacuum cleaners and lampshades.
My little one-bedroomed house is set in a gated compound of four families, with a shared yard and a big arched door at the end. We are about 25 people in total. The yard is always full of children and cats and sometimes chickens, and my step is a handy place for the women to sit in the shade. My bedroom is located right over the family cow, so can get a bit smelly in the mornings, but I am also perched above a sea of walnut trees.
I speak Arabic but that was no good to me here as the language is Tashlaheet, one of the three Amazigh languages of Morocco. I needed to learn fast to integrate with my neighbours. Help came in the form of Hajj Brahim’s 90-year-old mother. I had decided to leave my front door open to encourage visitors and she arrived with two ripe peaches. "Peace be upon you my daughter, welcome, my son has built you a beautiful house."
A face glowing with the wisdom of a life kindly spent, she smiled at me and put her hot, dry hand into mine. We walked to the terrace and she started to teach me words – "Odrar: mountains", "Ishwa: beautiful" – as we sat listening to the birds hand in hand.
Another breakthrough was my first tea party with the women. A flower-like girl of about 8 – Zineb – was sent to fetch me at five o’clock and I was taken up to Rachida’s house. Seven women of differing ages, the wives and mothers, were sitting in fluffy pyjamas with bright robes, aprons and headscarves over the top. I was welcomed and kissed and guided through the feast: flaky paratha-like bread, cushiony pancakes, butter, honey and walnuts. “Everything is from the home,” Rachida told me proudly, “The butter is from the cow downstairs, even the honey is from our wild hives in the mountains. Eat, eat.”
I had to train so every day I would get my kit on and go up the mountains. “Look, Madame Sport is coming,” the little boys would yell in delight and then jog along with me for a bit, dragging me off the path if they spotted something exciting to show me, like goats climbing trees to get to the juicy tips.
I also started doing games with the kids in the compound every Sunday, and seeing the little girls pelting along to win the running races in their pink plastic slippers or doing their best to imitate elephants has become an enormous shared pleasure. Musical statues is the absolute favourite, though.
The race came and I was seen off by the family with every wish for my success and a speedy return. “God, go with you! God be with you,” they cried as young Imran carried my kit bag down the goat track – it was bigger than him. I ran and walked and suffered round Everest, focused solely on my goal of finishing each day within the time limits so that I wouldn’t suffer the ignominy of being disqualified and helicoptered back to Kathmandu. My joy when I went up to collect my finisher’s medal was indescribable.
Wearing that medal, after a month away, I skipped up the goat track back to my mountain house. “Salaam alaykum,” I called as I peeped round the gate and was immediately swamped by a tidal wave of people. I was enveloped in hugs and kisses while the children capered around. “Come, come, let’s drink tea,” said Fatma, Hajj’s wife, grabbing my hand.
"And then, sport, Alice,” said little Zineb. "We have been waiting for you.” I was home.
The book of Alice Morrison’s BBC2 Series, Morocco to Timbuktu: An Arabian Adventure, is available on Amazon
Charlotte Gainsbourg
Rest
(Because Music)
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
LOVE%20AGAIN
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The biog
Name: Sari Al Zubaidi
Occupation: co-founder of Cafe di Rosati
Age: 42
Marital status: single
Favourite drink: drip coffee V60
Favourite destination: Bali, Indonesia
Favourite book: 100 Years of Solitude
MATCH INFO
Burnley 1 (Brady 89')
Manchester City 4 (Jesus 24', 50', Rodri 68', Mahrez 87')
ANDROID%20VERSION%20NAMES%2C%20IN%20ORDER
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Milestones on the road to union
1970
October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar.
December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.
1971
March 1: Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.
July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.
July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.
August 6: The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.
August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.
September 3: Qatar becomes independent.
November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.
November 29: At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.
November 30: Despite a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa.
November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties
December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.
December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.
December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.
Liverpool’s fixtures until end of 2019
Saturday, November 30, Brighton (h)
Wednesday, December 4, Everton (h)
Saturday, December 7, Bournemouth (a)
Tuesday, December 10, Salzburg (a) CL
Saturday, December 14, Watford (h)
Tuesday, December 17, Aston Villa (a) League Cup
Wednesday, December 18, Club World Cup in Qatar
Saturday, December 21, Club World Cup in Qatar
Thursday, December 26, Leicester (a)
Sunday, December 29, Wolves (h)
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Gran Gala del Calcio 2019 winners
Best Player: Cristiano Ronaldo (Juventus)
Best Coach: Gian Piero Gasperini (Atalanta)
Best Referee: Gianluca Rocchi
Best Goal: Fabio Quagliarella (Sampdoria vs Napoli)
Best Team: Atalanta
Best XI: Samir Handanovic (Inter); Aleksandar Kolarov (Roma), Giorgio Chiellini (Juventus), Kalidou Koulibaly (Napoli), Joao Cancelo (Juventus*); Miralem Pjanic (Juventus), Josip Ilicic (Atalanta), Nicolo Barella (Cagliari*); Fabio Quagliarella (Sampdoria), Cristiano Ronaldo (Juventus), Duvan Zapata (Atalanta)
Serie B Best Young Player: Sandro Tonali (Brescia)
Best Women’s Goal: Thaisa (Milan vs Juventus)
Best Women’s Player: Manuela Giugliano (Milan)
Best Women’s XI: Laura Giuliani (Milan); Alia Guagni (Fiorentina), Sara Gama (Juventus), Cecilia Salvai (Juventus), Elisa Bartoli (Roma); Aurora Galli (Juventus), Manuela Giugliano (Roma), Valentina Cernoia (Juventus); Valentina Giacinti (Milan), Ilaria Mauro (Fiorentina), Barbara Bonansea (Juventus)
GULF MEN'S LEAGUE
Pool A Dubai Hurricanes, Bahrain, Dubai Exiles, Dubai Tigers 2
Pool B Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Jebel Ali Dragons, Dubai Knights Eagles, Dubai Tigers
Opening fixtures
Thursday, December 5
6.40pm, Pitch 8, Abu Dhabi Harlequins v Dubai Knights Eagles
7pm, Pitch 2, Jebel Ali Dragons v Dubai Tigers
7pm, Pitch 4, Dubai Hurricanes v Dubai Exiles
7pm, Pitch 5, Bahrain v Dubai Eagles 2
Recent winners
2018 Dubai Hurricanes
2017 Dubai Exiles
2016 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2015 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2014 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
INFO
What: DP World Tour Championship
When: November 21-24
Where: Jumeirah Golf Estates, Dubai
Tickets: www.ticketmaster.ae.
THE SPECS
Range Rover Sport Autobiography Dynamic
Engine: 5.0-litre supercharged V8
Transmission: six-speed manual
Power: 518bhp
Torque: 625Nm
Speed: 0-100kmh 5.3 seconds
Price: Dh633,435
On sale: now
BEACH SOCCER WORLD CUP
Group A
Paraguay
Japan
Switzerland
USA
Group B
Uruguay
Mexico
Italy
Tahiti
Group C
Belarus
UAE
Senegal
Russia
Group D
Brazil
Oman
Portugal
Nigeria
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
RESULTS
1.45pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,200m
Winner: Lady Parma, Richard Mullen (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).
2.15pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,200m
Winner: Tabernas, Connor Beasley, Ahmed bin Harmash.
2.45pm: Handicap Dh95,000 1,200m
Winner: Night Castle, Connor Beasley, Satish Seemar.
3.15pm: Handicap Dh120,000 1,400m
Winner: Mystique Moon, Sam Hitchcott, Doug Watson.
3.45pm: Handicap Dh80,000 1,400m
Winner: Mutawakked, Szczepan Mazur, Musabah Al Muhairi.
4.15pm: Handicap Dh90,000 1,800m
Winner: Tafaakhor, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
4.45pm: Handicap Dh80,000 1,950m
Winner: Cranesbill, Fabrice Veron, Erwan Charpy.
The Old Slave and the Mastiff
Patrick Chamoiseau
Translated from the French and Creole by Linda Coverdale
WORLD CUP SEMI-FINALS
England v New Zealand (Saturday, 12pm)
Wales v South Africa (Sunday, 1pm)
'Champions'
Director: Manuel Calvo
Stars: Yassir Al Saggaf and Fatima Al Banawi
Rating: 2/5
Ain Issa camp:
- Established in 2016
- Houses 13,309 people, 2,092 families, 62 per cent children
- Of the adult population, 49 per cent men, 51 per cent women (not including foreigners annexe)
- Most from Deir Ezzor and Raqqa
- 950 foreigners linked to ISIS and their families
- NGO Blumont runs camp management for the UN
- One of the nine official (UN recognised) camps in the region
MATCH INFO
Euro 2020 qualifier
Fixture: Liechtenstein v Italy, Tuesday, 10.45pm (UAE)
TV: Match is shown on BeIN Sports
INDIA V SOUTH AFRICA
First Test: October 2-6, at Visakhapatnam
Second Test: October 10-14, at Maharashtra
Third Test: October 19-23, at Ranchi
A cheaper choice
Vanuatu: $130,000
Why on earth pick Vanuatu? Easy. The South Pacific country has no income tax, wealth tax, capital gains or inheritance tax. And in 2015, when it was hit by Cyclone Pam, it signed an agreement with the EU that gave it some serious passport power.
Cost: A minimum investment of $130,000 for a family of up to four, plus $25,000 in fees.
Criteria: Applicants must have a minimum net worth of $250,000. The process take six to eight weeks, after which the investor must travel to Vanuatu or Hong Kong to take the oath of allegiance. Citizenship and passport are normally provided on the same day.
Benefits: No tax, no restrictions on dual citizenship, no requirement to visit or reside to retain a passport. Visa-free access to 129 countries.
On the menu
First course
▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water
▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle
Second course
▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo
▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa
Third course
▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro
▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis
Dessert
▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate
▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
UAE FIXTURES
October 18 – 7.30pm, UAE v Oman, Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
October 19 – 7.30pm, UAE v Ireland, Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
October 21 – 2.10pm, UAE v Hong Kong, Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
October 22 – 2.10pm, UAE v Jersey, Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
October 24 – 10am, UAE v Nigeria, Abu Dhabi Cricket Oval 1
October 27 – 7.30pm, UAE v Canada, Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
October 29 – 2.10pm, Playoff 1 – A2 v B3; 7.30pm, Playoff 2 – A3 v B2, at Dubai International Stadium.
October 30 – 2.10pm, Playoff 3 – A4 v Loser of Play-off 1; 7.30pm, Playoff 4 – B4 v Loser of Play-off 2 at Dubai International Stadium
November 1 – 2.10pm, Semifinal 1 – B1 v Winner of Play-off 1; 7.30pm, Semifinal 2 – A1 v Winner of Play-off 2 at Dubai International Stadium
November 2 – 2.10pm, Third place Playoff – B1 v Winner of Play-off 1; 7.30pm, Final, at Dubai International Stadium
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