The Hague: Pretty and pleasing

Why The Hague?

The Hague is a pretty little city on the Netherlands' North Sea coast yet it is often overlooked by tourists for its more glamorous sibling Amsterdam to the north. But it is well worth a visit for its architecture, beautiful green spaces (400 hectares of forest) and low-key vibe.

The Hague dates back to the 13th century, when it was hunting grounds for a count, but most of the buildings are from the 18th and 19th centuries. They were constructed in a high and narrow fashion in the neo-classical style and the best examples of this are the imposing homes and townhouses in smart suburban neighbourhoods. The posh Statenkwartier neighbourhood near the harbour has beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. The city's centre however is where you can see splendid buildings from the Middle Ages onwards, including the Baroque mansions in the Lange Voorhout which were constructed in the 1700s.

Despite the thousands of expatriates who live here, the Hague retains a pure, continental charm unsullied by hordes of tourists in search of European cafe culture.

A comfortable bed

The swankiest place in town is the Steigenberger Kurhaus Hotel (www.kurhaus.nl; 00 31 70 416 2790), which started as a bathhouse and spa in 1818. The beautiful and sprawling building framed by a long and well-kept avenue overlooks the sea and has recently undergone renovation. It has always been the place to stay for visiting royals, politicians and celebrities. Superior (double) rooms start at €305 (Dh1,500) including taxes.

The Ibis chain of hotels (www.ibishotel.com) are a good choice for those on a smaller budget. There is one near Scheveningen beach (00 31 70 354 3300) with double rooms starting at about €59 (Dh287), including taxes.

The Carlton Ambassador (www.carlton.nl/ambassador; 00 31 70 363 03 63) is a mid-priced option in the city's centre close to the embassies and within walking distance of major tourist sites. Double rooms booked online start at about €147 (Dh723), including taxes.

Find your feet

The Hague has a fantastically efficient and extensive network of trams and buses so driving isn't necessary. Den Haag Centraal train station brings you into the middle of town. Walk up Spui, the pedestrian road, and check out the clothing shops and small restaurants some of which serve the Dutch speciality, bitteballe, bite-sized, deep-fried meat snacks dipped in hot mustard. Turn right for the Mauritshuis museum, which has a wonderful collection of Dutch masters including Johannes Vermeer's Girl With a Pearl Earring. Next door is the Binnenhof building, once the home of the Dutch parliament. The sparse courtyard was used for executions.

For a modern take on crime and punishment and the Netherlands' push to establish itself as a centre for international justice, sign up for a guided tour of the Vredespaleis (guidedtours@carnegie-stichting.nl), home to several institutions including the International Court of Justice. The beautiful neo-Renaissance building was donated by the American tycoon and peace activist Andrew Carnegie in 1913 to study ways of permanently abolishing warfare at a time when the international peace movement was strong.

On the outskirts of the city, the massive beach at Scheveningen attracts nine million visitors a year and is terribly overcrowded in the summer but it can be fun to sit back and watch the crowds.

Meet the locals

Sometimes it seems as if the city is overrun with diplomats and expats working for the bewildering array of international organisations such as Shell or the UN. Many Dutch, regardless of age or class, can be found at any number of coffee shops or fish restaurants by the harbour.

Rent a bike for a few days to see how the Dutch live and get around. Riding bikes isn't a death sport the way it is in many other cities with crash helmets, leotards and neon jackets. Rather it is a gentle activity and cyclists have right of way on the roads. You will see parents on these paths with children in tow, either on their own little bikes or being pulled in small wagons. The Dutch adore dogs and take them everywhere (even to the banks) and petting a friendly pooch is a good way to start a conversation.

Book a table

The restaurants around the harbour can be pricey but the seafood restaurants are worth it for the mussels when in season from late July until March. Order them with frites and mayonnaise and use a pair of empty shells to lift and eat the mussels.

If it's red meat you're after, then one of the best restaurants in town is the Habour Club's steak house, the Steak Club (00 31 70 891 3229). This friendly, loft-style eatery has a good selection of cuts but expect to pay top whack - €5.50 (Dh27) for a small basket of bread. A three-course meal for two people will cost about €100 (Dh486).

For a more casual option, check out Onder de Watertoren (00 31 41 43 45 91), a post-modern style cafe with lots of glass and wood in the middle of a nature reserve. It has a simple but solid menu of pancakes with a variety of fillings, fries, sandwiches and the most delicious hot chocolate with whipped cream. Or take a walk down to the Plein in the city centre and choose from any number of cafes.

Shopper's paradise

The Frederikstraat in the Willemspark neighbourhood has lovely boutiques selling clothes, electronics and furniture. Around the corner on Mauritsake is Secondhand Rose (00 31 70 3467144), a city institution selling vintage designer clothes for men and women. If it is the Mad Men look you favour, this is the place. You can find a 1960s Burberry mackintosh in nearly mint condition for a bargain €90 (Dh438).

The Frederik Hendriklaan, known as "the Fred" to locals, has become gentrified in recent years thanks to an influx of expatriates. It is a good place to find delicious cheeses and deli meats, which shopkeepers will vacuum pack for customers to take abroad. Blokker is famous for good quality, reasonably priced homewares. It is also fun to wander into the flower shops - every neighbourhood has at least one - to admire the pretty blossoms and elegant arrangements. It is hard to leave a florist without a small bouquet of something.

What to avoid

The areas around Hollands Spoor or Centraal train stations at night are not very pleasant as they are not well lit, although the most danger you face is from pickpockets. There is also ongoing construction around Hollands Spoor, making it difficult to find parking, and traffic can be heavy. Many streets and parks are littered with dog mess as most owners don't bother to pick up after their pets, so take care where you step.

Don't miss

The Dunes in the Scheveningen neighbourhood is a breathtaking wild nature reserve. These are not dunes in the sense of waves of undulating sand but a vast green space with birds, ponds and wooded areas leading out to the beach. In the summer it is a great place for picnics and horse riding. In the winter, if there is enough snow, people go cross-country skiing.