Sumo, sushi and skyscrapers were among a romantically jumbled maelstrom of images that prompted me to swap London for Tokyo two years ago. I was charmed from the start: with a skyline that changes almost as frequently as the sun rises and sets, it is an ever-evolving city that can tame the most insatiable of short-concentration-span wanderlusts. Today, I live in a pink apartment block along a cherry tree-lined river in Nakameguro, a residential area just south of Shibuya that is filled with cafes and vintage stores.
Perhaps a reflection of a 12 million-strong population, there really is something for everyone in Tokyo: a horde of Michelin-starred restaurants, world-class design stores, trend-sparking street culture, iconic urban architecture, shrines and temples - not to mention some of the freshest sushi in the world. But for me, the most seductive aspect is its atmosphere: it may famously be one of the world's most densely populated cities, but it is not only clean, punctual, safe and polite - it is infinitely more serene than its chaotic counterparts such as London and New York.
Tokyo excels at luxury, with virtually all major hotel groups present. There is the sleek Park Hyatt, aka that hotel from Lost In Translation (www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com; 0081 3 5322 1234, from about US$844; Dh3,100). Afternoon tea queues tail along the marble corridors of the Peninsula (www.peninsula.com/tokyo, 0081 3 6270 2888, from $762; Dh2,799). The Mandarin Oriental is the pick of the crop for understated elegance (www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo; 0081 3 3270 8800, from $893; Dh3,279). And the latest addition to the luxury hotel scene is the Shangri-La, which opened its gilt-edged doors last year (www.shangri-la.com/tokyo; 0081 3 6739 7888, from $633; Dh2,396).
Those who are on a budget need not scrimp on style. The Grandbell hotel offers a slice of boutique chic at a stone's throw from Shibuya (www.granbellhotel.jp; 0081 3 5457 2681; from $231; Dh850). For a more authentic taste of Japan, check into Yoshimizu, a modern take on a traditional ryokan, complete with futons unrolled nightly, tatami floors and sliding paper screens, in the heart of the Ginza shopping district (www.yoshimizu.com; 0081 3 3248 4432, from $858; Dh233). But there is only one option for the very brave or the very poor: join the salarymen queue and check into a capsule at Akasaka Riverside (www.asakusa-capsule.jp; 0081 3 3844 5117; $33; Dh121 a night).
To get your bearings, make the most of Tokyo's clean, fast, punctual and mostly bilingual transport system and jump on the circular JR Yamanote line. Stop at Ueno to explore its cherry blossom-filled park with hidden shrines, historic museums, tea rooms and lotus ponds. Hop back on the train to Akihabara - aka Electric Town - to pick up the latest gadgets from multi-storey shops. Next stop is Harajuku - visit the forested Meiji Jingu shrine before eating a strawberry cream crepe on Takeshita Dori (a colourful gathering spot for Japan's teens) and exploring the architecture of the design stores of Omotesando. Other stops include Shibuya for shopping and its famous crossing, and Shinjuku for its neon-lit skyscrapers and entertainment district.
Downing sake is the best way to bond with locals. Head to an izakaya - a pub often marked at the entrance with large red lanterns - and tuck into an array of tapas-sized dishes before striking up a conversation with the neighbours. The smaller and more intimate the venue the better - and some are tiny, seating only about half a dozen people. Karaoke also helps break down barriers: ask for directions to the nearest outlet of national chain Karaoke Kan. Be prepared to be outshone - Japanese are endowed with a karaoke gene and will belt out pitch perfect hits till sunrise.
With more Michelin stars than New York, London and Paris put together, the only challenging aspect of dining out in Tokyo is choosing where to eat. For a modern take on traditional Japanese cuisine in a stylish design setting, head to Shunju Daichi no Chikara in Roppongi. The city's best tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets) are on offer at Maisen, a restaurant in a former bathhouse located on a quiet back lane off Omotesando.
Tap into the latest "beauty food" trend by ordering a collagen nabe hot pot at One Garden in Shibuya, which promises to make skin softer as well as sating appetites. The hardiest of foodies should rise before the sun and head to the famous Tsukiji fish market to peruse the otherworldly collection of marine life on display before tucking into a sushi breakfast at one of the local restaurants. Still overwhelmed? Visit www.bento.com for a comprehensive list of reviews and directions to restaurants and bars across the city.
Resistance to retail therapy is futile in Tokyo, a modern-day temple to all things consumer-related. Ginza is home to wide streets of old school department stores and gleaming fashion towers. An emerging rival is Marunouchi, an area in the throes of a major makeover with a growing number of stylish shopping towers. Omotesando is also home to an architectural encyclopaedia of iconic flagship fashion stores - from Tod's to Christian Dior - while the tangle of small lanes on either side of the boulevard is home to independent boutiques and cafes. For a fashion fix away from the neon lights, head to the small stores and edgy boutiques that fill the Daikanyama area.
Roppongi by night. While there are exceptions, many late night bars have acquired the dubious reputation of attracting western men looking for Japanese girls.
Tokyo is a haven for hidden gems that recall the city's past in a modern context. One example is the garden at the Nezu Museum. Recently reopened following a major renovation by architect Kengo Kuma, the centrepiece is its beautiful green garden, complete with ponds, cherry trees and tea rooms - all the more remarkable given its location in Aoyama a stone's throw from the city's most upmarket design stores. The best way to unearth other such delights - for example, the red gates of a Shinto shrine on a quiet lantern-lit lane in the shadow of a skyscraper? Simply wander the streets and explore. travel@thenational.ae
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Uefa Champions League play-off
First leg: Wednesday, 11pm (UAE)
Ajax v Dynamo Kiev
Second leg: Tuesday, August 28, 11pm (UAE)
Dynamo Kiev v Ajax
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The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
How much sugar is in chocolate Easter eggs?
- The 169g Crunchie egg has 15.9g of sugar per 25g serving, working out at around 107g of sugar per egg
- The 190g Maltesers Teasers egg contains 58g of sugar per 100g for the egg and 19.6g of sugar in each of the two Teasers bars that come with it
- The 188g Smarties egg has 113g of sugar per egg and 22.8g in the tube of Smarties it contains
- The Milky Bar white chocolate Egg Hunt Pack contains eight eggs at 7.7g of sugar per egg
- The Cadbury Creme Egg contains 26g of sugar per 40g egg
The specs: 2018 Ducati SuperSport S
Price, base / as tested: Dh74,900 / Dh85,900
Engine: 937cc
Transmission: Six-speed gearbox
Power: 110hp @ 9,000rpm
Torque: 93Nm @ 6,500rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 5.9L / 100km
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
MATCH INFO
Final: England v South Africa, Saturday, 1pm
Cherry
Directed by: Joe and Anthony Russo
Starring: Tom Holland, Ciara Bravo
1/5
INFO
What: DP World Tour Championship
When: November 21-24
Where: Jumeirah Golf Estates, Dubai
Tickets: www.ticketmaster.ae.
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The biog
Favourite car: Ferrari
Likes the colour: Black
Best movie: Avatar
Academic qualifications: Bachelor’s degree in media production from the Higher Colleges of Technology and diploma in production from the New York Film Academy
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
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UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
Where to donate in the UAE
The Emirates Charity Portal
You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.
The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments
The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.
Al Noor Special Needs Centre
You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.
Beit Al Khair Society
Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.
Dar Al Ber Society
Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.
Dubai Cares
Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.
Emirates Airline Foundation
Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.
Emirates Red Crescent
On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.
Gulf for Good
Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.
Noor Dubai Foundation
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).
More coverage from the Future Forum
The biog
Name: Salvador Toriano Jr
Age: 59
From: Laguna, The Philippines
Favourite dish: Seabass or Fish and Chips
Hobbies: When he’s not in the restaurant, he still likes to cook, along with walking and meeting up with friends.
COMPANY PROFILE
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
Ovo's tips to find extra heat
- Open your curtains when it’s sunny
- Keep your oven open after cooking
- Have a cuddle with pets and loved ones to help stay cosy
- Eat ginger but avoid chilli as it makes you sweat
- Put on extra layers
- Do a few star jumps
- Avoid alcohol
Results
6.30pm: Maiden Dh165,000 (Dirt) 1,400m. Winner: Rio Angie, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer).
7.05pm: Handicap Dh170,000 (D) 1,600m. Winner: Trenchard, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
7.40pm: Maiden Dh165,000 (D) 1,600m. Winner: Mulfit, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
8.15pm: Handicap Dh210,000 (D) 1,200m. Winner: Waady, Dane O’Neill, Doug Watson.
8.50pm: Handicap Dh210,000 (D) 2,000m. Winner: Tried And True, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
9.25pm:Handicap Dh185,000 (D) 1,400m. Winner: Midnight Sands, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
