Cerro San Cristobal in Santiago. Kara Dillon for The National
Cerro San Cristobal in Santiago. Kara Dillon for The National

Savour the sights and tastes of Santiago



Why Santiago

Chants of "Viva Chile" were heard around the world late last year during the dramatic rescue of 33 miners from deep beneath the Atacama desert. Santiago now seems poised for its coming-out party. Cultural centres, theatres and museums abound in this capital city with a European feel. For those looking for a break from a whirlwind tour of South America, Santiago offers a chance to relax in a city with all the amenities of home. And, yes, it is the jumping-off point in a country blessed with diverse landscapes - from glaciers and fjords in the south to the world's driest desert in the north - including white sand beaches about an hour and a half to the west in Valparaiso, its bohemian centre, and Vina del Mar. Vina's anthropological museum features collections from Easter Island - including the only genuine Moai statue in the whole of continental Chile - for those short on time and money to visit the island.

A comfortable bed

The Aubrey Boutique Hotel (www.theaubrey.com; 00 56 2 940 2800) is housed in the renovated 1927 home of the Chilean politician Domingo Duran Morales and retains much of the original architecture. It sits beside San Cristobal hill - home to the country's largest urban park at 722 hectares - in Santiago's Bellavista neighbourhood, the centre of the city's arts scene, and a minute's walk to the former home of Pablo Neruda, winner of a Nobel Prize in literature. Rooms with a view of the neighbourhood cost US$240 (Dh880) per night.

For luxury outside the busy downtown, there is the recently opened W Santiago (www.starwoodhotels.com; 00 56 2 770 0000), 15 minutes away by car or the metro in the chic El Golf area, dubbed "Sanhattan" by the residents. A standard room with king-sized bed costs $294.17 (Dh1,080).

Find your feet

The top tourist attractions in Santiago's historic centre can be easily reached on foot, and the city is full of parks and cycle paths that offer shelter from the often heavy traffic. Start in the Plaza de Armas, the original centre of Santiago where the Spanish first founded the city in the 1500s. There you will find the central post office built on the site of the city's first house, the Metropolitan Cathedral, which has been rebuilt four times since its founding, and the national history museum.

Make your way south to the Presidential Palace, bombed by planes and tanks during the 1973 military coup, before strolling east through the pedestrian-dominated streets downtown, stopping for a quick snack of mote con huesillo (dried peaches and wheat husk soaked in sugary peach juice).

Hike up Santa Lucia hill for a nice view of the city before checking out Lastarria street. Lined with restaurants and cafes, Lastarria features an artisan fair from Thursday to Sunday, and blues musicians play here every night. From there, continue east through the Forest Park, admiring the view of the snow-capped Andes, before crossing the Pio Nono bridge to explore the Bellavista neighbourhood, full of patios and local food stalls.

Meet the locals

Head out to one of the city's parks in the evening and you'll find people enjoying ice cream, playing football or cosying up on park benches. For impromptu theatre, head to the Plaza de Armas where mimes, jugglers and clowns entertain the crowds.

Book a table

With 4,270 km of coastline, fresh seafood is to be found everywhere. Try Mercado Central (www.mercadocentral.cl; 00 56 2 671 0167), where hundreds of tables and chairs are arranged near dozens of restaurants and stalls selling fresh fish on ice, ready to be cooked and served (try the conger eel). Avoid the touristy restaurants in the middle of the market if you do not feel like paying nearly $40 (Dh130) for a four-course meal. Smaller outfits around the periphery serve dishes starting at around $5 (Dh20). For more traditional Chilean fare, including humitas (boiled corn leaf rolls stuffed with seasoned ground corn for less than $1.40; Dh5), there are a wide selection of restaurants.

Those craving a little Middle Eastern flavour should head to Patronato Street to the north of Mapocho River. This was once the centre of the city's Palestinian immigrant community, and a handful of restaurants and sweet shops still serve up delicacies including shawarma ($4; Dh15) and halwa.

Shopper's paradise

For local goodies, including jewellery and figurines carved out of the semi-precious stone lapis lazuli, check out the handicraft stalls in the Bellavista neighbourhood or the shops in Patio Bellavista.

What to avoid

While Santiago is very safe, solitary night-time walks in the parks are not advisable. It's also wise to avoid the 1973 military coup or comments about the subsequent dictatorship inconversations with Chileans. It remains a controversial subject.

Don't miss

The views from the top of San Cristobal. Rising 880 metres above sea level, the hill offers a stunning perspective of the city. Everyone who comes to Santiago makes it a point of reaching the top, but not everyone knows a funicular at its base offers easy access. If you want some exercise, rent a bike or strap on your running shoes. The various parks, gardens and barbecue pits, the zoo and snack vendors offer stopping points along the way.

The design

The protective shell is covered in solar panels to make use of light and produce energy. This will drastically reduce energy loss.

More than 80 per cent of the energy consumed by the French pavilion will be produced by the sun.

The architecture will control light sources to provide a highly insulated and airtight building.

The forecourt is protected from the sun and the plants will refresh the inner spaces.

A micro water treatment plant will recycle used water to supply the irrigation for the plants and to flush the toilets. This will reduce the pavilion’s need for fresh water by 30 per cent.

Energy-saving equipment will be used for all lighting and projections.

Beyond its use for the expo, the pavilion will be easy to dismantle and reuse the material.

Some elements of the metal frame can be prefabricated in a factory.

 From architects to sound technicians and construction companies, a group of experts from 10 companies have created the pavilion.

Work will begin in May; the first stone will be laid in Dubai in the second quarter of 2019. 

Construction of the pavilion will take 17 months from May 2019 to September 2020.

Four reasons global stock markets are falling right now

There are many factors worrying investors right now and triggering a rush out of stock markets. Here are four of the biggest:

1. Rising US interest rates

The US Federal Reserve has increased interest rates three times this year in a bid to prevent its buoyant economy from overheating. They now stand at between 2 and 2.25 per cent and markets are pencilling in three more rises next year.

Kim Catechis, manager of the Legg Mason Martin Currie Global Emerging Markets Fund, says US inflation is rising and the Fed will continue to raise rates in 2019. “With inflationary pressures growing, an increasing number of corporates are guiding profitability expectations downwards for 2018 and 2019, citing the negative impact of rising costs.”

At the same time as rates are rising, central bankers in the US and Europe have been ending quantitative easing, bringing the era of cheap money to an end.

2. Stronger dollar

High US rates have driven up the value of the dollar and bond yields, and this is putting pressure on emerging market countries that took advantage of low interest rates to run up trillions in dollar-denominated debt. They have also suffered capital outflows as international investors have switched to the US, driving markets lower. Omar Negyal, portfolio manager of the JP Morgan Global Emerging Markets Income Trust, says this looks like a buying opportunity. “Despite short-term volatility we remain positive about long-term prospects and profitability for emerging markets.” 

3. Global trade war

Ritu Vohora, investment director at fund manager M&G, says markets fear that US President Donald Trump’s spat with China will escalate into a full-blown global trade war, with both sides suffering. “The US economy is robust enough to absorb higher input costs now, but this may not be the case as tariffs escalate. However, with a host of factors hitting investor sentiment, this is becoming a stock picker’s market.”

4. Eurozone uncertainty

Europe faces two challenges right now in the shape of Brexit and the new populist government in eurozone member Italy.

Chris Beauchamp, chief market analyst at IG, which has offices in Dubai, says the stand-off between between Rome and Brussels threatens to become much more serious. "As with Brexit, neither side appears willing to step back from the edge, threatening more trouble down the line.”

The European economy may also be slowing, Mr Beauchamp warns. “A four-year low in eurozone manufacturing confidence highlights the fact that producers see a bumpy road ahead, with US-EU trade talks remaining a major question-mark for exporters.”

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Transmission: 8-speed automatic

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The specs

Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel

Power: 579hp

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The National's picks

4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
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Kathryn Hawkes of House of Hawkes on being a good guest (because we’ve all had bad ones)

  • Arrive with a thank you gift, or make sure you have one for your host by the time you leave. 
  • Offer to buy groceries, cook them a meal or take your hosts out for dinner.
  • Help out around the house.
  • Entertain yourself so that your hosts don’t feel that they constantly need to.
  • Leave no trace of your stay – if you’ve borrowed a book, return it to where you found it.
  • Offer to strip the bed before you go.
The rules on fostering in the UAE

A foster couple or family must:

  • be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
  • not be younger than 25 years old
  • not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
  • be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
  • have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
  • undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
  • A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially

The Baghdad Clock

Shahad Al Rawi, Oneworld

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The Kingfisher Secret
Anonymous, Penguin Books

 

 

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NO OTHER LAND

Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal

Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham

Rating: 3.5/5

Real estate tokenisation project

Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.

The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.

Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.