I had initially planned to take a 48- to 72-hour ferry from Japan (Osaka) to China (Shanghai) but time constraints and the ferry schedules didn't work in my favour. Another option was to fly there via a two-day stop in Hong Kong. With the visa requirement being merely a stamp on arrival, 48 hours in Hong Kong sounded like a good option. Hong Kong was exactly what I had expected it to be - a busy commercial centre - but, as I found out later in the week, quite different from China despite the increasing influx of Chinese tourists. Rush hour in Hong Kong, it is said, is from 12am to 12am and, for a big city, taxis are cheap - probably because they move at a snail's pace.
For such a small island, there is a lot happening. How exactly does one decide what to do with just 48 hours in a metropolis like Hong Kong? Keeping with my habit of getting a bird's-eye view of a big city on my first day, I headed to the Peak, home to Hong Kong's billionaires (the wealthy in Hong Kong make up 10 per cent of the population) and also home to the greatest panoramic view of the harbour, city and sea. I took a bus tour up to the Peak which also stopped at Stanley Market (HK$310; Dh147). The view was, as promised, spectacular. Stanley Market would have been more of a novelty if I hadn't just arrived from roaming the markets of South-east Asia and, again, I struggled to find local souvenirs or handmade crafts. The stalls were full of knock-off goods, which anyone reading this column could probably tell by now is not my cup of tea. Temple Street night market, however, on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, was great for handmade souvenirs and gifts, quite similar to Luang Prabang's market that I fell in love with in Laos, but I highly doubt any market can beat that.
I stayed in Hong Kong on the Kowloon side, away from the central business district and in the centre of the shopping, market and food-stall district. Hong Kong felt much like a London or New York of the Far East and has all the elements to make it that type of city: transport is easy, prices are big-city prices, and all the well-known international brands are spread across the streets. English is almost as widely spoken as Cantonese, although Mandarin is catching up fast. Kowloon is bisected by Nathan Road, which has swarms of shops. I'm not sure whether it was the exchange rate working in my favour, or that the prices were simply lower, but I found Hong Kong to be relatively inexpensive. I picked up a few work clothes and posted them back to Abu Dhabi. It was the first time I had thought about going back to work in a long time. Perhaps the big commercial towers reminded me of home.
Heading to The Peak on the first day whetted my appetite for a night view. I crossed the harbour on one of Hong Kong's famous Star ferries for HK$5.30 (Dh2.50) one-way. I'd also heard from a local that the best way to go up the Peak was by the famously steep tram. The queue to board a tram lasted about 30 minutes, which I would learn later is nothing compared to the queue times in Shanghai and Beijing. I've seen many city skylines by night but in Hong Kong the harbour throws something different into your standard city skyline night view; it was like Sydney had met Dubai.
I struck luck on my second and last day in Hong Kong. Most of the national museums along the harbour are free on Wednesdays and it was pouring down with rain. I combined these two positive signs and spent an afternoon museum-hopping, from the Museum of Art to the Science Museum to the Space Museum. I occasionally popped out onto Hong Kong's Promenade to take in the views of the skyscrapers and to look at the Avenue of Stars section, with its giant statue of Bruce Lee and handprints of numerous other local celebrities.
Hong Kong was the only city I had been to so far where I hadn't met people and it's a place that I think I would have enjoyed more if I had had more time (at least more than 48 hours) and that I would like to explore more of with company. Next on my map was Shanghai, where I was meeting my brother who had just finished his final A-level year. A day before leaving for Shanghai, I received a message that he wanted a pre-university summer to remember and had an appetite for 24-hour fun. Perhaps my down-time in Hong Kong was a good thing - I'll let you know from China.
Next week: Shanghai, Ismat's next stop as she tours the world.
more from Janine di Giovanni
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League quarter-final, second leg (first-leg score):
Manchester City (0) v Tottenham Hotspur (1), Wednesday, 11pm UAE
Match is on BeIN Sports
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The biog
Favourite book: Men are from Mars Women are from Venus
Favourite travel destination: Ooty, a hill station in South India
Hobbies: Cooking. Biryani, pepper crab are her signature dishes
Favourite place in UAE: Marjan Island
PFA Team of the Year: David de Gea, Kyle Walker, Jan Vertonghen, Nicolas Otamendi, Marcos Alonso, David Silva, Kevin De Bruyne, Christian Eriksen, Harry Kane, Mohamed Salah, Sergio Aguero
The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
THE SPECS
Engine: 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 petrol engine
Power: 420kW
Torque: 780Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh1,350,000
On sale: Available for preorder now
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The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
Five films to watch
Castle in the Sky (1986)
Grave of the Fireflies (1988)
Only Yesterday (1991)
Pom Poki (1994)
The Tale of Princess Kaguya (2013)
Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
War
Director: Siddharth Anand
Cast: Hrithik Roshan, Tiger Shroff, Ashutosh Rana, Vaani Kapoor
Rating: Two out of five stars
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
The five pillars of Islam
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets