It's difficult to recommend somewhere people will have trouble finding, but then such is the nature of so much in Kiev.
Often, the most interesting places lie behind unmarked doors in snow-covered alleys, or, such as in the monastery complex of Pechersk Lavra, are underground catacombs that aren't signposted in English. And so one of the most surprising spots I discovered in the city was in a quiet, mostly residential neighbourhood near the Lybidska metro station off of Boulevard Druzbhy Narodiv. If you're taking a taxi, ask to go to the shady-looking Hotel Druzbhy. Fifty metres to the east, there is a club called Mambo's. But you should be looking beyond to the dreary building complex just east of that. Go around back and climb the first set of stairs to a grey metal door.
You'd never know it from the outside, but this is the entrance to Tea Club (00 380 451 42 83). It's a sort of all-purpose gathering spot for Ukrainian intellectuals run by, among others, a former journalist who left newspapers to study mediation and martial arts near the Shao Lin Temple in China. There are more than 200 different types of rare loose tea leaves in little glass jars lining the walls and a series of low-lit rooms are decorated with Eastern decor. Take off your shoes upon entering and change into wicker slippers and one of the hosts will arrange for you to have tea in a traditional Chinese ceremony that is increasingly being lost to the ages in China.
Beneath a stairway, I sat for about an hour-and-a-half on the floor with Taras, the former journalist, in front of a small, hollow cast-iron tray with a drainage well while he prepared tiny cup after tiny cup of a wild-growing, aged black tea, each time pouring a bit of the hot water on a thimble-sized statue of Buddha for his blessings. The experience was wonderful, the atmosphere - where in another room people were listening to world music and using Wi-Fi, and elsewhere couples were reclining beside one another in little enclosures made from folding screens - was totally out of character with the decidedly untrendy area, and the level of expertise about tea and Chinese culture was hard to believe. And at $12 (Dh44) such a special and personalised thing hardly seemed overpriced. But that's Kiev for you, where you never know what's hiding around the corner.
After a couple days in the capital, however, I was sick of shivering while walking through gusts of snowflakes on the ice-laden streets and hoped that if I headed south I might thaw out. That night I taxied to the central railway station to catch the 10:59pm train to Odessa. I had asked a Ukrainian speaker to buy my tickets online on the government-operated railways' website (www.uz.gov.ua) because the site is entirely written in Cyrillic characters and it would be impossible to navigate if you didn't have a working understanding of Ukrainian or Russian. Another, perhaps easier, but more expensive option is to use such online brokers as Real Russia (www.realrussia.co.uk), which allow English-speaking users to find out time and fare information and to buy tickets for train travel throughout the former Soviet Union. But the prices in that case do go up. My one-way ticket in a second-class - also known as kupe - sleeper compartment cost only $14 (Dh53). If I had ordered my ticket with Real Russia I would have paid $61 (Dh226). By doing so, however, I could have picked it up in advance at the company's office in Moscow for free or in its London office for $15 (Dh55) extra. To have the ticket delivered to Abu Dhabi by mail in three business days it would cost $16 (Dh60). This may seem a somewhat roundabout process just to buy a train ticket, but the protocol at the stations in Ukraine are notoriously difficult for foreigners - so much so that brokers like Real Russia exist. The gruff ticket agents almost never speak English and train schedules and other information are written in Cyrillic. I found that having a friend buy the ticket online for me and then accompany me to the station to make certain that I got on the right train was not only incredibly helpful but far cheaper and more sensible than the brokerage option.
Once aboard, the ride was entertaining and cost-efficient as well because the little compartment with four fold-out bunks was also my hotel for the night during the 10-hour journey. My three companions - an elderly mother and her 20-something daughter and a burly man with one eye - didn't speak any English either. But they were most amused by my presence and helped guide me with hand gestures through the rituals of train travel in Ukraine.
The train was a time-worn Soviet model with fake wood panelling and Oriental carpets on the floor. Each train car has an attendant who collects tickets, provides pillows, pillowcases, bedspreads and thick wool blankets, and organises tea service in the morning. It is uncommon for passengers to sleep in their regular clothes and everyone but me had brought some form of nightwear and asked the other passengers to leave the room while they changed. At pretty much any hour of day or night the enclosed connection areas between cars will be full of smokers sucking down a nicotine fix.
Although heated, the trains get very cold at night during the winter. The bathroom had no water and was locked during departure and 15 minutes before arrival. In all, however, the experience was more comfortable than other inexpensive train rides I've taken in places like India and I actually slept pretty well.
Once at the station in Odessa, I prepared myself for another experience that is common for travellers in many parts of the former USSR but that I had never done before - book an apartment from a local upon arrival. On the train station's steps there were a half-dozen frumpy, bundled-up old women with paper signs pinned to their chests. These ladies are informally known as the babushka mafia and they provide out-of-towners with on-the-spot arrangements for accommodation that are often much cheaper and even nicer than the budget hotels.
When I approached one of the women, she began speaking to me in Ukrainian for paragraphs at a time as I tried to convey that I had no idea of what she was saying. Finally, I held my outstretched pinkie and thumb to my ear and said "Englishki". Luckily, she understood that she would need to phone someone who I could communicate with.
With the English speaker on the other end of the line I negotiated for a one-bedroom flat with heat and hot water that was near the train station for $20 (Dh73) per night. I also made it clear that I wanted to see it first. I followed the woman up three flights of stairs as she clutched the rail and wheezed louder as we rose. The flat was simple but clean and had the basic amenities promised. It even offered a few extra touches such as a teapot and a box of tea bags. When I looked at mid-range hotels in the same area they cost more than $50 (Dh184) per night. And it was quite a bit more interesting for a few days to feel like I was really sojourning in Ukraine with my own apartment, a funny little landlady and even a hot cup of tea.
lkummer@thenational.ae
Tuesday's fixtures
Kyrgyzstan v Qatar, 5.45pm
Essentials
The flights
Whether you trek after mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda or the Congo, the most convenient international airport is in Rwanda’s capital city, Kigali. There are direct flights from Dubai a couple of days a week with RwandAir. Otherwise, an indirect route is available via Nairobi with Kenya Airways. Flydubai flies to Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, via Entebbe in Uganda. Expect to pay from US$350 (Dh1,286) return, including taxes.
The tours
Superb ape-watching tours that take in all three gorilla countries mentioned above are run by Natural World Safaris. In September, the company will be operating a unique Ugandan ape safari guided by well-known primatologist Ben Garrod.
In the Democratic Republic of Congo, local operator Kivu Travel can organise pretty much any kind of safari throughout the Virunga National Park and elsewhere in eastern Congo.
Election pledges on migration
CDU: "Now is the time to control the German borders and enforce strict border rejections"
SPD: "Border closures and blanket rejections at internal borders contradict the spirit of a common area of freedom"
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
Singham Again
Director: Rohit Shetty
Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone
Rating: 3/5
Company profile
Name: The Concept
Founders: Yadhushan Mahendran, Maria Sobh and Muhammad Rijal
Based: Abu Dhabi
Founded: 2017
Number of employees: 7
Sector: Aviation and space industry
Funding: $250,000
Future plans: Looking to raise $1 million investment to boost expansion and develop new products
Results
6pm: Dubai Trophy – Conditions (TB) $100,000 (Turf) 1,200m
Winner: Silent Speech, William Buick (jockey), Charlie Appleby
(trainer)
6.35pm: Jumeirah Derby Trial – Conditions (TB) $60,000 (T)
1,800m
Winner: Island Falcon, Frankie Dettori, Saeed bin Suroor
7.10pm: UAE 2000 Guineas Trial – Conditions (TB) $60,000 (Dirt)
1,400m
Winner: Rawy, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer
7.45pm: Al Rashidiya – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner: Desert Fire, Hector Crouch, Saeed bin Suroor
8.20pm: Al Fahidi Fort – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Naval Crown, William Buick, Charlie Appleby
8.55pm: Dubawi Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $150,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Al Tariq, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watsons
9.30pm: Aliyah – Rated Conditions (TB) $80,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Dubai Icon, Patrick Cosgrave, Saeed bin Suroor
Pathaan
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Siddharth%20Anand%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Shah%20Rukh%20Khan%2C%20Deepika%20Padukone%2C%20John%20Abraham%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
6.30pm Meydan Classic Trial US$100,000 (Turf) 1,400m
Winner Bella Fever, Dane O’Neill (jockey), Mike de Kock (trainer).
7.05pm Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner Woven, Harry Bentley, David Simcock.
7.40pm UAE 2000 Guineas Group Three $250,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
Winner Fore Left, William Buick, Doug O’Neill.
8.15pm Dubai Sprint Listed Handicap $175,000 (T) 1,200m
Winner Rusumaat, Dane O’Neill, Musabah Al Muhairi.
8.50pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-2 Group Two $450,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner Benbatl, Christophe Soumillon, Saeed bin Suroor.
9.25pm Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner Art Du Val, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
10pm Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner Beyond Reason, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Abu Dhabi GP schedule
Friday: First practice - 1pm; Second practice - 5pm
Saturday: Final practice - 2pm; Qualifying - 5pm
Sunday: Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (55 laps) - 5.10pm
Three tips from La Perle's performers
1 The kind of water athletes drink is important. Gwilym Hooson, a 28-year-old British performer who is currently recovering from knee surgery, found that out when the company was still in Studio City, training for 12 hours a day. “The physio team was like: ‘Why is everyone getting cramps?’ And then they realised we had to add salt and sugar to the water,” he says.
2 A little chocolate is a good thing. “It’s emergency energy,” says Craig Paul Smith, La Perle’s head coach and former Cirque du Soleil performer, gesturing to an almost-empty open box of mini chocolate bars on his desk backstage.
3 Take chances, says Young, who has worked all over the world, including most recently at Dragone’s show in China. “Every time we go out of our comfort zone, we learn a lot about ourselves,” she says.
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
How to help
Call the hotline on 0502955999 or send "thenational" to the following numbers:
2289 - Dh10
2252 - Dh50
6025 - Dh20
6027 - Dh100
6026 - Dh200
Day 4, Abu Dhabi Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Not much was expected – on Sunday or ever – of Hasan Ali as a batsman. And yet he lit up the late overs of the Pakistan innings with a happy cameo of 29 from 25 balls. The highlight was when he launched a six right on top of the netting above the Pakistan players’ viewing area. He was out next ball.
Stat of the day – 1,358 There were 1,358 days between Haris Sohail’s previous first-class match and his Test debut for Pakistan. The lack of practice in the multi-day format did not show, though, as the left-hander made an assured half-century to guide his side through a potentially damaging collapse.
The verdict As is the fashion of Test matches in this country, the draw feels like a dead-cert, before a clatter of wickets on the fourth afternoon puts either side on red alert. With Yasir Shah finding prodigious turn now, Pakistan will be confident of bowling Sri Lanka out. Whether they have enough time to do so and chase the runs required remains to be seen.
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, (Leon banned).
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.