Why Pest?
The city splits like the name – Budapest is really two settlements riven by the Danube River. Buda is the one with most of the obvious goodies – castle, wooded hills, ultra-photogenic churches and royal history.
But it only takes a wander down Kazinczy Utca to work out why Pest is the more appealing side of the city. The street has an awful lot going on: Thai restaurants, Ramen joints, taco bars and bike-rental shops are crammed in, and Karavan (www.streetfoodkaravan.hu) is a collection of street-food trucks banded together under one label. Next to it is Szimpla (www.szimpla.hu), an audacious takeover of a ruined building with dozens of alcoves and separate sections, all decorated with random ephemera such as carousel horses and old Trabant cars. A shisha bar sells a magical variety of flavours, and gigs advertised are in genres such as "elegant scandal music" and "doom jazz".
In short, you do a few hours in Buda, then spend the rest of the break in Pest. It’s the fun half – and then some.
A comfortable bed
The Four Seasons' Gresham Palace (www.fourseasons.com/budapest) is the most spectacular address in town. A bona fide art nouveau masterpiece, the detail is luxurious – from the quirky clock hands above the lifts to the glass roofs in the lobby and period-style furniture. Doubles cost from €396 (Dh1,560).
For some old-school grandeur at a lower price, the Danubius Hotel Astoria (www.danubiushotels.com) has a wonderful lobby of gilding, green marble and wood panelling, while upstairs the rooms are comfortable and go big on the heavy draped curtains. Prices start at €60 (Dh236).
One of a plethora of indie, design-leaning boutique hotels in Pest, the Hotel Carat (www.caratboutiquehotel.hu) features a courtyard, silvery accent walls and black-and-white photo prints of Budapest on the walls sassed up in a near pop-art style. Doubles cost from €80 (Dh315).
Find your feet
Hungary's undeniably fabulous Parliament building was partly built as a two-finger salute to the royal establishment on the opposite bank of the Danube. A glorious red and white behemoth, it straddles architectural styles, although the Gothic influence is most visible. It doesn't exactly tone down the opulence inside either. It can only be seen on a guided tour (book via www.jegymester.hu).
From there, string together a few parks and admire the architecture on the way to major thoroughfare Andrassy utca. Highlights along the route include the colourful, artfully tiled and somewhat-playful Royal Postal Savings Bank building, plus the heavily detailed National Bank Building, where busts on the facade tell tales of trade around the world.
At Andrassy Utca, head past the grand cafes to the House of Terror (www.terrorhaza.hu). Formerly the secret police headquarters, it inventively tells the story of Hungary's tribulations under the Nazi and Soviet-backed regimes. It's an almost unrelentingly grim tale of murder, repression and deportation to work camps, but it's well told with bold imagery, reconstructed cells and plenty of video recollection.
Meet the locals
Kazinczy Utca is the most obviously humming street in Pest and arguably the one best known by visitors. But it is by no means on its own – you’ll find good local hangouts within a few streets on either side.
Book a table
The third restaurant in Budapest to be awarded a Michelin star, Borkonyha (www.borkonyha.hu) pulls off a stylish but unstuffy modern vibe – and dishes aren't quite as pricey as you might imagine. They lean towards forest fare, such as the 6,750 forint (Dh85) venison saddle with dried fruit-filled ravioli.
Koleves (www.koleves.com) isn't as exalted, but does a wonderful job of good food in a laid-back, art-surrounded atmosphere. Hearty mains, such as the goose leg confit with semi-mashed potato, stewed cabbage and sun-dried plum (3,380 forint [Dh43]) work really well – but there's also a large range of vegetarian options.
Shopper’s paradise
The Central Market Hall on Vamhaz Krt is worth visiting for the visual spectacle. It’s a humungous building, reminiscent of an early 20th-century pride-and-joy train station and packs in hundreds of stalls. Dangling meats, artisan chocolates, honey stalls and food carts mingle, while there’s souvenir and gift fare on the upper level. A lot of it is tat, but there are some good pottery and woven goods among it.
Kiraly Utca has several design and fashion shops, including the appealing Atlantisz bookshop and Orange, which does flamboyant and colourful eyewear.
What to avoid
Billed as the main shopping street, pedestrianised Vaci Utca is something of a disappointment, unless you like poor quality strictly-for-tourists junk and women trying to hustle you into buying “genuine leather” gloves.
Don’t miss
Budapest is blessed with thermal springs, and the sprawling Szechenyi Baths (www.szechenyibath.hu) takes full advantage of them. There are 15 indoor pools and three massive outdoor pools, and it's as much a hang-out as a place for a swim. Expect to see old men playing chess at the water's edge.
Getting there
Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Budapest from Dubai. Economy class returns cost from Dh2,760.
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
Racecard
6.35pm: The Madjani Stakes – Group 2 (PA) Dh97,500 (Dirt) 1,900m
7.10pm: Evidenza – Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 1,200m
7.45pm: The Longines Conquest – Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 2,000m
8.20: The Longines Elegant – Conditions (TB) Dh82,500 (D)
8.35pm: The Dubai Creek Mile – Listed (TB) Dh132,500 (D) 1,600m
9.30pm: Mirdif Stakes – Conditions (TB) Dh120,000 (D) 1,400m
10.05pm: The Longines Record – Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 1,900m
Company Fact Box
Company name/date started: Abwaab Technologies / September 2019
Founders: Hamdi Tabbaa, co-founder and CEO. Hussein Alsarabi, co-founder and CTO
Based: Amman, Jordan
Sector: Education Technology
Size (employees/revenue): Total team size: 65. Full-time employees: 25. Revenue undisclosed
Stage: early-stage startup
Investors: Adam Tech Ventures, Endure Capital, Equitrust, the World Bank-backed Innovative Startups SMEs Fund, a London investment fund, a number of former and current executives from Uber and Netflix, among others.
Afghanistan fixtures
- v Australia, today
- v Sri Lanka, Tuesday
- v New Zealand, Saturday,
- v South Africa, June 15
- v England, June 18
- v India, June 22
- v Bangladesh, June 24
- v Pakistan, June 29
- v West Indies, July 4
Ruwais timeline
1971 Abu Dhabi National Oil Company established
1980 Ruwais Housing Complex built, located 10 kilometres away from industrial plants
1982 120,000 bpd capacity Ruwais refinery complex officially inaugurated by the founder of the UAE Sheikh Zayed
1984 Second phase of Ruwais Housing Complex built. Today the 7,000-unit complex houses some 24,000 people.
1985 The refinery is expanded with the commissioning of a 27,000 b/d hydro cracker complex
2009 Plans announced to build $1.2 billion fertilizer plant in Ruwais, producing urea
2010 Adnoc awards $10bn contracts for expansion of Ruwais refinery, to double capacity from 415,000 bpd
2014 Ruwais 261-outlet shopping mall opens
2014 Production starts at newly expanded Ruwais refinery, providing jet fuel and diesel and allowing the UAE to be self-sufficient for petrol supplies
2014 Etihad Rail begins transportation of sulphur from Shah and Habshan to Ruwais for export
2017 Aldar Academies to operate Adnoc’s schools including in Ruwais from September. Eight schools operate in total within the housing complex.
2018 Adnoc announces plans to invest $3.1 billion on upgrading its Ruwais refinery
2018 NMC Healthcare selected to manage operations of Ruwais Hospital
2018 Adnoc announces new downstream strategy at event in Abu Dhabi on May 13
Source: The National
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
States of Passion by Nihad Sirees,
Pushkin Press
Wicked
Director: Jon M Chu
Stars: Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Jonathan Bailey
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Miss Granny
Director: Joyce Bernal
Starring: Sarah Geronimo, James Reid, Xian Lim, Nova Villa
3/5
(Tagalog with Eng/Ar subtitles)
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Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
Dubai Bling season three
Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed
Rating: 1/5
more from Janine di Giovanni
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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HOW DO SIM CARD SCAMS WORK?
Sim swap frauds are a form of identity theft.
They involve criminals conning mobile phone operators into issuing them with replacement Sim cards, often by claiming their phone has been lost or stolen
They use the victim's personal details - obtained through criminal methods - to convince such companies of their identity.
The criminal can then access any online service that requires security codes to be sent to a user's mobile phone, such as banking services.
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
The specs
Engine: four-litre V6 and 3.5-litre V6 twin-turbo
Transmission: six-speed and 10-speed
Power: 271 and 409 horsepower
Torque: 385 and 650Nm
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Abu Dhabi GP Saturday schedule
12.30pm GP3 race (18 laps)
2pm Formula One final practice
5pm Formula One qualifying
6.40pm Formula 2 race (31 laps)
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Star rating: 2/5