Why Downtown and Central Amman?
Amman’s soul is in its downtown district and adjoining central neighbourhoods Jabal Amman and Jabal Al Lweibdeh. Because its authenticity hasn’t been stripped away entirely by urbanisation, these areas retain an old-school charm. Even the most jaded traveller will pause to take in the impressive skyline, with Lego-like houses framed by Roman Empire-era columns looming over downtown Amman.
A comfortable bed
La Locanda offers a room with an artistic perspective. The boutique hotel's 14 rooms are themed after Arab cultural icons, including Umm Kulthum and Fairouz. The decor provides contrast, dominated by furniture with clean lines, architectural details, a slate-grey colour theme and plush linens. On Fridays, the buzzing Maestro bar hosts jazz musicians. Rooms cost from 92 Jordanian dinars (Dh477), including breakfast.
To witness the action first-hand, the three-star Art Hotel – on one of the busiest roads in downtown Amman – is a convenient, no-frills option, a short walk from all the main tourist sites. Modern artworks line the lobby walls and the hotel is clean and well-maintained, with helpful staff. But be warned: street noise does filter into the rooms. Rooms cost from 48 dinars (Dh249), including breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Find your feet
Start your explorations from First Circle – Amman’s navigational points are its numbered roundabouts – and follow the downward-sloping streets to enter the downtown Al Balad. Amman’s old neighbourhoods, built on hills, are connected by flights of steep stairs, and from downtown, you can access everything from hipster-friendly cafes to the historic Citadel.
Join locals snapping mandatory selfies at the Instagram-perfect steps, with its canopy of umbrellas, next to Zajal Restaurant, then find a spot on the balcony for argileh and tea. Or head to the nearby Jafra or Jameeda Khanum cafes for similar views of downtown from balcony terraces. On weekend evenings, the Hashemite Plaza, outside the Amphitheatre, draws families, kids on roller skates and shoppers from the nearby spice and shoe markets.
Meet the locals
Jabal Al Lweibdeh is the new centre of Amman cool, home to artisanal jam makers, cutesy coffee shops, graffiti-covered walls and gallery spaces. In the evenings, edgily dressed bohemian locals with artfully draped headscarves and fedoras come out to play. People hang out on the benches at the Paris Circle roundabout or take in the sights from pavement cafes such as Rumi Cafe, with decor (suspended light bulbs, subway tiles) that lend it a Williamsburg-meets-Lweibdeh feel. Combined with expats spilling out on to the streets after Arabic lessons at nearby language classes, there’s barely a dull day – or night – in Lweibdeh.
Book a table
For cuisine beloved by royals, locals and backpackers alike, get a falafel sandwich on regular or sesame-topped kaak bread (0.55 dinars [Dh2.85] or 0.75 dinars [Dh3.73]) at Al Quds cafe on Rainbow Street. Head to Hashem, where for 3 dinars (Dh16), you can eat a basic falafel and hummus meal with sweetened tea. Or jostle for a place in the queue at Habibeh for syrupy kunafa.
Fakhr El Din serves high-end Lebanese fare in an old-house-style setting characteristic of Amman's dining scene. A meal costs from 30 dinars (Dh155).
The sunny space of Shams El Balad lends itself to long breakfasts with a pot of tea and zaatar flatbreads.
Revel in local organic produce at the Friday brunch at Fann Wa Chai – pile your plate high with crunchy salads and terrines for 8 dinars (Dh41).
Joz Hind’s seasonal menu changes daily – expect fresh bread with vegetarian entrees featuring black rice and zucchini, from 6.50 dinars (Dh34).
Top it all off with parfait (5 dinars [Dh26]) from We Farm (Nicolas Ghanmah Street), an organic-juice-bar-style venue that offers non-dairy options.
Shopper’s paradise
Look but don’t buy at downtown’s stretch of gullible-tourist traps, where bilingual store owners hawk coloured sand bottles, kaffiyehs and shimmery belly dancer costumes. Instead, buy handicrafts and mosaics – one of the country’s most historically famous crafts – at the Darat Mosaic and Ceramic Art showroom on Nicolas Ghanmah Street. While in the neighbourhood, browse the tongue-in-cheek T-shirts at Jobedu and Korts.
What to avoid
With overpriced cafes, people cruising aimlessly and way too many tourists frequenting the area, Rainbow Street is largely best given a miss.
Don’t miss
From the Citadel to the Amphitheatre, the ruins of the Roman Empire alone are worth the visit to Amman. The former includes a temple for Hercules and a Byzantine church.
The Roman Amphitheatre in downtown often hosts concerts, but it’s a great experience even without the music. Its stairs are sunk into the city’s hills, making it part of Amman’s backdrop. Tickets include entry to smaller museums including the Jordan Folklore Museum.
Getting there
Direct flights from the UAE to Amman with Emirates, Etihad, FlyDubai or Royal Jordanian cost from Dh1,000.
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
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Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants
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Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
Women’s T20 World Cup Asia Qualifier
ICC Academy, November 22-28
UAE fixtures
Nov 22, v Malaysia
Nov 23, v Hong Kong
Nov 25, v Bhutan
Nov 26, v Kuwait
Nov 28, v Nepal
ICC T20I rankings
14. Nepal
17. UAE
25. Hong Kong
34. Kuwait
35. Malaysia
44. Bhutan
UAE squad
Chaya Mughal (captain), Natasha Cherriath, Samaira Dharnidharka, Kavisha Egodage, Mahika Gaur, Priyanjali Jain, Suraksha Kotte, Vaishnave Mahesh, Judit Peter, Esha Rohit, Theertha Satish, Chamani Seneviratne, Khushi Sharma, Subha Venkataraman
How to become a Boglehead
Bogleheads follow simple investing philosophies to build their wealth and live better lives. Just follow these steps.
• Spend less than you earn and save the rest. You can do this by earning more, or being frugal. Better still, do both.
• Invest early, invest often. It takes time to grow your wealth on the stock market. The sooner you begin, the better.
• Choose the right level of risk. Don't gamble by investing in get-rich-quick schemes or high-risk plays. Don't play it too safe, either, by leaving long-term savings in cash.
• Diversify. Do not keep all your eggs in one basket. Spread your money between different companies, sectors, markets and asset classes such as bonds and property.
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RESULT
Deportivo La Coruna 2 Barcelona 4
Deportivo: Perez (39'), Colak (63')
Barcelona: Coutinho (6'), Messi (37', 81', 84')
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
Ruwais timeline
1971 Abu Dhabi National Oil Company established
1980 Ruwais Housing Complex built, located 10 kilometres away from industrial plants
1982 120,000 bpd capacity Ruwais refinery complex officially inaugurated by the founder of the UAE Sheikh Zayed
1984 Second phase of Ruwais Housing Complex built. Today the 7,000-unit complex houses some 24,000 people.
1985 The refinery is expanded with the commissioning of a 27,000 b/d hydro cracker complex
2009 Plans announced to build $1.2 billion fertilizer plant in Ruwais, producing urea
2010 Adnoc awards $10bn contracts for expansion of Ruwais refinery, to double capacity from 415,000 bpd
2014 Ruwais 261-outlet shopping mall opens
2014 Production starts at newly expanded Ruwais refinery, providing jet fuel and diesel and allowing the UAE to be self-sufficient for petrol supplies
2014 Etihad Rail begins transportation of sulphur from Shah and Habshan to Ruwais for export
2017 Aldar Academies to operate Adnoc’s schools including in Ruwais from September. Eight schools operate in total within the housing complex.
2018 Adnoc announces plans to invest $3.1 billion on upgrading its Ruwais refinery
2018 NMC Healthcare selected to manage operations of Ruwais Hospital
2018 Adnoc announces new downstream strategy at event in Abu Dhabi on May 13
Source: The National
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Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
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