At last. I’m on my way to my first Aman: the 34-room, $1,100 a night Amangiri, Utah, one of the 26 hotels that make up what’s generally agreed to be the best boutique group in the world. Things don’t get off to the best start, though.
In keeping with Aman’s policy of choosing only spectacular locations for their tranquil hotels, Amangiri is located in the desert of remotest southern Utah, a hard-to-reach, ancient region that is close to the Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, the Colorado River and Monument Valley, where dinosaur bones are regularly dug up. The final stretch of the journey is an hour’s flight on a 16-seat turboprop from Phoenix, Arizona, to the one-horse town of Page. With less than an hour’s transit time in Phoenix, and with my case checked through to Page, I rush breathlessly to the far-flung corner of the airport from where the Page flight departs, and I’m just buckling my seat belt, looking forward to aerial views of the Grand Canyon, when the pilot turns around in his seat and calls down the little plane to me. “Er, ma’am. A little bad news, I’m afraid. Your luggage hasn’t made it.”
He sounds so casual that, for a moment, I assume he’s joking. “But don’t you worry. We’ll get it to you on the next flight,” he says. Right, I think, resignedly, wondering for just how long I’ll be non-tranquilly walking around in creased jeans and blouse, living out of the contents of my handbag. The no-baggage scenario is clearly a common one, too, to judge from the comment that I overhear as I walk glumly into the little arrivals and departures lounge in Page. “Funny how all folks for Amangiri always look so [expletive] off when they arrive,” I hear a tubby airport worker say to another, laughing sarcastically.
Soon I’m feeling ashamed of being bothered by anything as minor as luggage, however. The landscape is just magnificent. “See the mesa? Three hundred million years old,” says the driver, as we traverse an arid plain, pointing to distant rocky plateaux. We pass through a valley, climb higher, round a bend – and, at first sight, Amangiri looks as brutal as a nuclear bunker. A series of single-storey concrete buildings, the pinkish-tan shade merges almost seamlessly into the surrounding lunar-like landscape.
Up close, however, the brutality has an austere beauty. As I climb out of the four-wheel drive – fascinated to have discovered from the driver that the CIA recruits a large number of its agents from among the non-drinking, hyper-law-abiding, non-bad-anything Mormon students at Utah’s Brigham Young University – I am met by the unexpected sound of seductively rippling water, cascading from an infinity pool. After exchanging super-happy grins with the staff who line up to meet each new arrival, I walk up the steps, through oversized, tall doors, and into one of those spaces where you involuntarily say “wow” before you can think of anything more original.
With pale, polished concrete walls and floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows, the main pavilion houses an open kitchen area, a small indoor-outdoor restaurant, a raised lounge and library area with squashy sofas and stacks of photobooks and guides about the locale, and a little museum section of Indian artefacts discovered in the area. Dominating everything are CinemaScope views: the desert and distant mesa on one side, the pool, built around a looming vast, pale boulder, on the other. Spectacular.
I’m shown to my room – again, all bare concrete, wood, white cotton and minimalism, echoing the main pavilion with its floor-to-ceiling glass doors framing that dazzling desert view. The bed is emperor-size, positioned in the middle of the room to make the most of it, and has reading lights and plug points for phone charging conveniently positioned. A blissful bathroom is on the other side of the built -in wardrobe that acts as a room divider and also conceals the TV and minibar (whose soft drinks and salted caramel popcorn within are free). The counter is long – really super-usefully long – there is a large, open, twin shower and a bath that looks out over the desert. I love it. Everything’s comfortable and accessible and there’s nothing superfluous: not one of those little printed messages that some hotel groups like to dot around the place, either.
With nothing to unpack, however, and eager to get out of my travelling clothes, I book myself a massage. After a glass of the resort’s speciality cold drink, sage lemonade, by the pool – with sunbeds shaded by cherry trees – I head for the spa as the sun starts to sink. At the entrance, I push open another oversized iron door, so heavy and tall that it looks like the entrance to some super-secret government bolthole. Inside, I find myself in a dimly lit, subtly scented world with a fireplace where candles burn in two-feet-tall metal lanterns, an ornamental pool glimmers inside a floor-to-ceiling shuttered area and a series of changing and treatment rooms open off a central courtyard. I slip into a robe and am soon sinking back onto a heated massage bed. The treatment room follows the resort’s design ethos of stark simplicity. Walnut-panelled walls, slate floor; nothing on show, except the bed and three flickering candles, and around the corner a steam shower. Haunting Native American music plays quietly, barely audible. The therapist has a firm, capable touch. I have to struggle to stay awake, but a US$150 (Dh550) massage is not one that I want to sleep though.
At about 9pm, laid waste by the facial that follows the massage, I pad back through the main pavilion, down the steps, past the living wall of moss and along the open-air path to my room. And there is my case. It’s a joyful reunion. I light the candle by the bath and lie in deep, hot water, looking out at the dimly discernible desert and starry sky, feeling entirely at peace with the world.
Early the next morning, my alarm goes off at 5am – a good thing, as the alarm call I’d ordered from reception doesn’t happen. I take a pillow and the creamy, thick-knit blanket from the sofa onto the daybed on the terrace, and lie there waiting to watch the sun rise. As the sky becomes more streaked and a few birds burst into song, it feels like being alive at the beginning of time, but more cosy. After an hour back in bed, I am up again to meet the guide for a 7.30am walk into the desert while the day is still cool.
One striking aspect of this devastating landscape is the silence. No birdsong, now; no sound of wind rustling leaves – just zero-decibel silence. The age and geology of the place are mind-bending. Dan, the fifty-something guide, worked for America’s National Parks Board before coming here, making documentaries about the American south-west, and brims with facts and figures about the landscape. Three hundred million years ago, he says, the rocks that we’re looking at were seabed. I can almost feel my brain squirm at that, unable to comprehend. For the first time in my life, I try a bit of rock climbing, hauling myself up a boulder using an iron rung drilled into the rock face. Dan describes the two via ferrata – metal rungs screwed into the rock face that even completely inexperienced climbers can use as hand and footholds – that have been set up on steeper rock faces here. As we stand in a vast cave, I’m instructed to look up, and there, far above, are smoke stains on the cavern roof left by the Navajo and Hopi tribes, who were still roaming this region 100 years ago. Dan says that one of their desendents now comes to Amangiri once a week to play the flute and talk about his people’s history.
Back in the resort, I settle down for breakfast by the pool with a guidebook to the area and plan the rest of my stay. Should I go riding in the desert? Jet-ski on nearby Lake Powell? Join a slot canyon tour? Explore an ancient Navajo settlement? Possibly. But, actually, all I want to do is work my way through the resort’s books about this extraordinary region, and lie by the pool or on my terrace just looking at the scenery.
Amagiri isn’t perfect. The service could be much speedier, for instance. The earnest young staff, who are largely local, are eager to please, but inexperienced. My bison steak that night is meltingly Wagyu-like, but takes 45 minutes to arrive, and during my stay I’m continually aware of guests that are having to ask for things twice. At breakfast each day, the display of buffet items is so meagre that I feel as if I’ve arrived at the end of service rather than in the middle. And the menu is more ambitious than necessary. “Do you have porridge?” I ask one of the chefs at breakfast on my last day. His face lights up. “We do! Ours is very special, served with chicken and seafood,” he says. My stomach churns. What about porridge that’s just oats and milk? He smiles bravely. “Oh, sure, of course.” But to stay in an utterly spectacular landscape in a place where the design equals its setting is a delight. To explore that landscape with deeply knowledgeable guides is a true luxury. And although the 32 rooms are entirely satisfying, the two suites with their pool and sky lounge terrace with a daybed that the staff will make up so that you can spend the night there are, well, out of this world.
Just remember to travel with some hand luggage.
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Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
The years Ramadan fell in May
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SPECS
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At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
Kanye%20West
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City's slump
L - Juventus, 2-0
D - C Palace, 2-2
W - N Forest, 3-0
L - Liverpool, 2-0
D - Feyenoord, 3-3
L - Tottenham, 4-0
L - Brighton, 2-1
L - Sporting, 4-1
L - Bournemouth, 2-1
L - Tottenham, 2-1
SPECS
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HOSTS
T20 WORLD CUP
2024: US and West Indies; 2026: India and Sri Lanka; 2028: Australia and New Zealand; 2030: England, Ireland and Scotland
ODI WORLD CUP
2027: South Africa, Zimbabwe and Namibia; 2031: India and
Bangladesh
CHAMPIONS TROPHY
2025: Pakistan; 2029: India
Spain drain
CONVICTED
Lionel Messi Found guilty in 2016 of of using companies in Belize, Britain, Switzerland and Uruguay to avoid paying €4.1m in taxes on income earned from image rights. Sentenced to 21 months in jail and fined more than €2m. But prison sentence has since been replaced by another fine of €252,000.
Javier Mascherano Accepted one-year suspended sentence in January 2016 for tax fraud after found guilty of failing to pay €1.5m in taxes for 2011 and 2012. Unlike Messi he avoided trial by admitting to tax evasion.
Angel di Maria Argentina and Paris Saint-Germain star Angel di Maria was fined and given a 16-month prison sentence for tax fraud during his time at Real Madrid. But he is unlikely to go to prison as is normal in Spain for first offences for non-violent crimes carrying sentence of less than two years.
SUSPECTED
Cristiano Ronaldo Real Madrid's star striker, accused of evading €14.7m in taxes, appears in court on Monday. Portuguese star faces four charges of fraud through offshore companies.
Jose Mourinho Manchester United manager accused of evading €3.3m in tax in 2011 and 2012, during time in charge at Real Madrid. But Gestifute, which represents him, says he has already settled matter with Spanish tax authorities.
Samuel Eto'o In November 2016, Spanish prosecutors sought jail sentence of 10 years and fines totalling €18m for Cameroonian, accused of failing to pay €3.9m in taxes during time at Barcelona from 2004 to 2009.
Radamel Falcao Colombian striker Falcao suspected of failing to correctly declare €7.4m of income earned from image rights between 2012 and 2013 while at Atletico Madrid. He has since paid €8.2m to Spanish tax authorities, a sum that includes interest on the original amount.
Jorge Mendes Portuguese super-agent put under official investigation last month by Spanish court investigating alleged tax evasion by Falcao, a client of his. He defended himself, telling closed-door hearing he "never" advised players in tax matters.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
What is an ETF?
An exchange traded fund is a type of investment fund that can be traded quickly and easily, just like stocks and shares. They come with no upfront costs aside from your brokerage's dealing charges and annual fees, which are far lower than on traditional mutual investment funds. Charges are as low as 0.03 per cent on one of the very cheapest (and most popular), Vanguard S&P 500 ETF, with the maximum around 0.75 per cent.
There is no fund manager deciding which stocks and other assets to invest in, instead they passively track their chosen index, country, region or commodity, regardless of whether it goes up or down.
The first ETF was launched as recently as 1993, but the sector boasted $5.78 billion in assets under management at the end of September as inflows hit record highs, according to the latest figures from ETFGI, a leading independent research and consultancy firm.
There are thousands to choose from, with the five largest providers BlackRock’s iShares, Vanguard, State Street Global Advisers, Deutsche Bank X-trackers and Invesco PowerShares.
While the best-known track major indices such as MSCI World, the S&P 500 and FTSE 100, you can also invest in specific countries or regions, large, medium or small companies, government bonds, gold, crude oil, cocoa, water, carbon, cattle, corn futures, currency shifts or even a stock market crash.
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
The%20specs
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Match info
Uefa Champions League Group F
Manchester City v Hoffenheim, midnight (Wednesday, UAE)
VEZEETA PROFILE
Date started: 2012
Founder: Amir Barsoum
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: HealthTech / MedTech
Size: 300 employees
Funding: $22.6 million (as of September 2018)
Investors: Technology Development Fund, Silicon Badia, Beco Capital, Vostok New Ventures, Endeavour Catalyst, Crescent Enterprises’ CE-Ventures, Saudi Technology Ventures and IFC
Company%20Profile
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NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Australia tour of Pakistan
March 4-8: First Test, Rawalpindi
March 12-16: Second Test, Karachi
March 21-25: Third Test, Lahore
March 29: First ODI, Rawalpindi
March 31: Second ODI, Rawalpindi
April 2: Third ODI, Rawalpindi
April 5: T20I, Rawalpindi
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
- Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
- Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
- Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
- Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
- The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
- Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269
*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
RESULTS
5pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
Winner: Samau Xmnsor, Abdul Aziz Al Balushi (jockey), Ibrahim Al Hadhrami (trainer)
5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Ottoman, Szczepan Mazur, Abdallah Al Hammadi
6pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner: Sharkh, Patrick Cosgrave, Helal Al Alawi
6.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 85,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner: Yaraa, Fernando Jara, Majed Al Jahouri
7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Maaly Al Reef, Bernardo Pinheiro, Abdallah Al Hammadi
7.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,000m
Winner: Jinjal, Fabrice Veron, Ahmed Al Shemaili
8pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,000m
Winner: Al Sail, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
Results
3pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (Dirt) 1,000m; Winner: Dhafra, Antonio Fresu (jockey), Eric Lemartinel (trainer)
3.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: Al Ajayib, Antonio Fresu, Eric Lemartinel
4pm: Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: Ashtr, Abdul Aziz Al Balushi, Majed Al Jahouri
4.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: Falcon Claws, Szczepan Mazur, Doug Watson
5pm: Sheikh Dr Sultan bin Khalifa Al Nahyan Cup – Prestige Handicap (PA) Dh100,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: Al Mufham SB, Al Moatasem Al Balushi, Badar Al Hajri
5.30pm: Sharjah Marathon – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 2,700m; Winner: Asraa Min Al Talqa, Al Moatasem Al Balushi, Helal Al Alawi
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
