The welcome
From the first moment the name of the game at the Mazagan Beach Resort was "two steps forward and three steps back". Having been eventually permitted through the security outpost at the perimeter of the resort, our car was valet-parked and our luggage ushered swiftly inside. Then followed a 25-minute pause, standing in the cavernous reception with dozens of other lost souls, waiting for the hotel rep to turn up. After the long trek to the room, we were happy to find a note from the manager (signed by his assistant).
The neighbourhood
Located about 100km south of Casablanca, on Morocco's windswept Atlantic coast, Mazagan is set just off the beach. The property is simply enormous, sprawling over a heavily irrigated terrain of 250 hectares, much of it devoted to the celebrated golf course laid out by Gary Player. There's certainly a sense that you're separated from the outside world, with wonderful views over the surrounding wilderness and down the deserted coastline. The downside is that unless you have your own transport, you are rather captive, unable to easily take advantage of local sights and culture in the nearby city of El Jadida. There are, however, a range of (pricey) hotel-run excursions to nearby cities, and others farther afield to places such as Marrakech.
The service
Without wanting to seem uncharitable, I have to say right away that the service at Mazagan was strangely reminiscent of the 1970s British sitcom Fawlty Towers. As with the shambolic fictional hotel on the equally windswept English south coast, Mazagan's lack of management is at best amusing, and at worst distressing. It's as if all the staff have been told to keep their heads down and to bumble along. They are friendly (Morocco is a kingdom of friendliness par excellence), but so was Manuel, the inept lackey under Basil Fawlty's thumb. And for me this was where Mazagan flopped - the sense that no one really cared that I was staying there.
The room
The guest rooms at Mazagan are laid out on four floors, along three sides of what is essentially a grand riad, a courtyard garden. The rooms are spacious and bright with either views towards the ocean or over the central swimming pool. A normal deluxe room is 42 square metres, with the suites starting at 82 sq m. All rooms feature free Wi-Fi internet, and the usual mod cons. The bathrooms are a little on the small side, but very acceptable.
The food
There are four main restaurants at Mazagan, serving a mixture of cuisine from both East and West. One of the central pleasures at a resort is gorging oneself on food, and that's quite possible, especially in the voluminous Market Place restaurant. Popular with families, the buffet spread is very good, and includes a chocolate fountain (which made my kids weak at the knees with delight). On the floor below the Market Place is a Mediterranean restaurant called Olive's, serving a buffet arrangement of salads, pasta and pizza. The fare in both restaurants is good, although the menu did seem rather repetitive by the second day. For those managing to park their kids with a babysitter, there are two à la carte restaurants, Sel de Mer and Morjana. The first, offering seafood pulled from the Atlantic waters a stone's throw away, backs onto the casino. The second, Morjana, is highly regarded for its Moroccan fusion cuisine.
The scene
Mazagan is a Las Vegas-style resort catering to international holidaymakers eager for sun and sand, golf and gambling, as well as to Moroccans from up the road in Casablanca, who fill the place at the weekends. A great many visitors are lured by the links-style golf course, which is certainly impressive and challenging at the same time. Although there is a consistent Moroccan theme in the decor, I wouldn't say that Mazagan is genuinely Moroccan. Rather, it's a garish fantasy version of the country conjured by the casino owner, Sol Kerzner, the man who gave the world Sun City in South Africa.
Loved
I loved the fact that children were so welcome, and that they had their own "Kids' Club", run by the most ebullient chap I've ever encountered anywhere. The range of activities is near limitless. Also excellent is the golf club, managed by a retired PGA professional. The club, which has its own restaurant and bar, is set to become ever more celebrated as word of it spreads.
Hated
Hate is a strong word, but I'd say I disliked intensely the general lack of leadership, and the fact that just about everything was average yet with prices that could be regarded as well above average. It was this sense of mediocrity that left me feeling a little hollow inside. There was nothing that stole my heart, nothing that made me ever want to return. The verdict If you are looking for golf or for a casino, and you're in the neighbourhood, then drop in. But if you don't gamble or golf and you're searching for a memorably good retreat, then my advice is to go elsewhere.
The bottom line
A deluxe double room with sea view is approximately US$335 (Dh1,230) including breakfast. Suites with a sea view start at approximately $754 (Dh2,770) including breakfast. Mazagan Beach Resort, El Jadida 24000, Morocco (www.mazaganbeachresort.com; 00 212 5 2338 8000).
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder turbo
Transmission: CVT
Power: 170bhp
Torque: 220Nm
Price: Dh98,900
How to get there
Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Hanoi, Vietnam, with fares starting from around Dh2,725 return, while Etihad (www.etihad.com) fares cost about Dh2,213 return with a stop. Chuong is 25 kilometres south of Hanoi.
Know your camel milk:
Flavour: Similar to goat’s milk, although less pungent. Vaguely sweet with a subtle, salty aftertaste.
Texture: Smooth and creamy, with a slightly thinner consistency than cow’s milk.
Use it: In your morning coffee, to add flavour to homemade ice cream and milk-heavy desserts, smoothies, spiced camel-milk hot chocolate.
Goes well with: chocolate and caramel, saffron, cardamom and cloves. Also works well with honey and dates.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
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Our legal advisor
Ahmad El Sayed is Senior Associate at Charles Russell Speechlys, a law firm headquartered in London with offices in the UK, Europe, the Middle East and Hong Kong.
Experience: Commercial litigator who has assisted clients with overseas judgments before UAE courts. His specialties are cases related to banking, real estate, shareholder disputes, company liquidations and criminal matters as well as employment related litigation.
Education: Sagesse University, Beirut, Lebanon, in 2005.
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Name: Dr Lalia Al Helaly
Education: PhD in Sociology from Cairo
Favourite authors: Elif Shafaq and Nizar Qabbani.
Favourite music: classical Arabic music such as Um Khalthoum and Abdul Wahab,
She loves the beach and advises her clients to go for meditation.
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The specs
Engine: Turbocharged four-cylinder 2.7-litre
Power: 325hp
Torque: 500Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh189,700
On sale: now
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Cricket World Cup League 2
UAE results
Lost to Oman by eight runs
Beat Namibia by three wickets
Lost to Oman by 12 runs
Beat Namibia by 43 runs
UAE fixtures
Free admission. All fixtures broadcast live on icc.tv
Tuesday March 15, v PNG at Sharjah Cricket Stadium
Friday March 18, v Nepal at Dubai International Stadium
Saturday March 19, v PNG at Dubai International Stadium
Monday March 21, v Nepal at Dubai International Stadium
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
