The welcome
There are a couple of different ways to get to the Zambian resort from Livingstone's Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport – by road, river or air. My mode of transport on this occasion is via a safari boat, which involves a leisurely cross of the Zambezi River, capturing glimpses of the spray from the famous Victoria Falls in the distance. After about 20 minutes, the boat pulls up at back of the five-star property, where I'm met and guided through the expansive grounds to the reception area. I sip on a juice during check-in, and before too long, it's off to the room in a buggy, with a dedicated butler taking care of the bags and the room introduction.
The neighbourhood
Positively African. It's not uncommon to find zebras grazing near your front porch or giraffes munching away during your walk to breakfast. The Royal Livingstone sits within the 46-hectare Unesco World Heritage-listed Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Wildlife Park, which fringes the Zambezi River. The 173-room hotel is a short walk from the entrance to Victoria Falls, and offers views of the river and the most expansive curtain of water in the world. Access to the falls is free for guests of the Royal Livingstone and the neighbouring Avani property. Livingstone town is 15 minutes away.
The room
This colonial-style resort offers guests a choice of four room categories. I stay in a deluxe room on ground level, the standard. It's compact yet cosy, and has a private terrace that offers views of the river (or in some cases garden views). The room has a king bed, a single sofa and a well-appointed bathroom, with tub and walk-in shower with marble bench. The toiletries on offer are limited, but mosquito repellent is supplied, which is appreciated, given the environment here. A word of warning: don't leave the terrace doors open for long, because the monkeys are enterprising.
The service
Interactions with staff typically involve big smiles, and no request is a problem. Each room has its own assigned butler who is on hand 24/7. Dining staff across the property are attentive without being overbearing, but there are quite a few food items unavailable during my stay (such as gluten-free flour and salmon), which is disappointing given the location and having alerted the property to my gluten-free dietary requirements well in advance.
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Read more:
The greatest escape: a Namibian road safari
Top 10 wilderness destinations to discover
A guide to viewing mountain gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC
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The scene
Family-friendly and relaxed. First-time visitors to Africa will find this an eye-opening introduction. After all, who doesn't want to share their surrounds with some of the country's most popular four-legged residents. There are some great spots across the property to watch the river gush past, while the best place to enjoy a sundowner is The Sundeck, right on the banks of the Zambezi (prices start from 121 Zambian kwacha [Dh43]). There is plenty of space for children to run around and guests are able to access the Avani kids' club.
The food
Between The Royal Livingstone and the adjoining Avani property, there are plenty of options for keeping your meal experiences interesting. The Mikuni Boma village experience is one not to be missed, but it's only on Friday evenings. Here, everyone dines together, fireside, feasting on Zambian buffet fare (grilled meats and spiced dishes), entertained by traditional dancers, at a cost of 360 kwacha (Dh130) per person.
The Royal Livingstone Dining Room is the property’s a la carte restaurant, open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast is a comprehensive affair, with plenty of the usual hot and cold offerings found at most resorts. For me, the fruit selection, the lack of key ingredients and the temperature of the coffee served could have been better.
For a special occasion, book yourself a table on the Royal Livingstone Express (1,929 kwacha [Dh697])– the hotel's restored steam locomotive that accepts guests on Mondays, Wednesdays and Sundays, but book well in advance because it sells out quickly. Dining by Design is a more romantic experience, with a choice of four spots across the property, from 1,287 kwacha (Dh465) per person.
Loved
Being able to access Victoria Falls as many times as I want between 6am and 6pm daily, and that the riverside spa tent had a mirror under the bed, so while lying face down during the treatment, I could still enjoy the river views.
Hated
A persistently rickety toilet seat in my room. I did report it, but to no avail.
The verdict
A well-positioned resort suitable for couples and families that offers African safari vibes with Unesco World Heritage appeal.
The bottom line
Rooms at The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls by Anantara (www.anantara.com) cost from 6,635 kwacha (Dh2,398) per night, including breakfast, taxes and Wi-Fi. Water arrivals cost from 587 kwacha (Dh212) per person.
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
RESULTS
Time; race; prize; distance
4pm: Maiden; (D) Dh150,000; 1,200m
Winner: General Line, Xavier Ziani (jockey), Omar Daraj (trainer)
4.35pm: Maiden (T); Dh150,000; 1,600m
Winner: Travis County, Adrie de Vries, Ismail Mohammed
5.10pm: Handicap (D); Dh175,000; 1,200m
Winner: Scrutineer, Tadhg O’Shea, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
5.45pm: Maiden (D); Dh150,000; 1,600m
Winner: Yulong Warrior, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
6.20pm: Maiden (D); Dh150,000; 1,600m
Winner: Ejaaby, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson
6.55pm: Handicap (D); Dh160,000; 1,600m
Winner: Storyboard, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
7.30pm: Handicap (D); Dh150,000; 2,200m
Winner: Grand Dauphin, Gerald Mosse, Ahmed Al Shemaili
8.05pm: Handicap (T); Dh190,000; 1,800m
Winner: Good Trip, Tadhg O’Shea, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
Red Sparrow
Dir: Francis Lawrence
Starring: Jennifer Lawrence, Joel Egerton, Charlotte Rampling, Jeremy Irons
Three stars
Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
RESULT
Manchester United 2 Burnley 2
Man United: Lingard (53', 90' 1)
Burnley: Barnes (3'), Defour (36')
Man of the Match: Jesse Lingard (Manchester United)
Stage 3 results
1 Adam Yates (GBR) Mitchelton-Scott 4:42:33
2 Tadej Pocagar (SLO) UAE Team Emirates 0:01:03
3 Alexey Lutsenko (KAZ) Astana 0:01:30
4 David Gaudu (FRA) Groupama-FDJ
5 Rafal Majka (POL) Bora-Hansgrohe
6 Diego Ulissi (ITA) UAE Team Emirates 0:01:56
General Classification after Stage 3:
1 Adam Yates (GBR) Mitchelton-Scott 12:30:02
2 Tadej Pocagar (SLO) UAE Team Emirates 0:01:07
3 Alexey Lutsenko (KAZ) Astana 0:01:35
4 David Gaudu (FRA) Groupama-FDJ 0:01:40
5 Rafal Majka (POL) Bora-Hansgrohe
6 Wilco Kelderman (NED) Team Sunweb) 0:02:06
Abu Dhabi traffic facts
Drivers in Abu Dhabi spend 10 per cent longer in congested conditions than they would on a free-flowing road
The highest volume of traffic on the roads is found between 7am and 8am on a Sunday.
Travelling before 7am on a Sunday could save up to four hours per year on a 30-minute commute.
The day was the least congestion in Abu Dhabi in 2019 was Tuesday, August 13.
The highest levels of traffic were found on Sunday, November 10.
Drivers in Abu Dhabi lost 41 hours spent in traffic jams in rush hour during 2019
SHOW COURTS ORDER OF PLAY
Centre Court (4pm UAE/12pm GMT)
Victoria Azarenka (BLR) v Heather Watson (GBR)
Rafael Nadal (ESP x4) v Karen Khachanov (RUS x30)
Andy Murray (GBR x1) v Fabio Fognini (ITA x28)
Court 1 (4pm UAE)
Steve Johnson (USA x26) v Marin Cilic (CRO x7)
Johanna Konta (GBR x6) v Maria Sakkari (GRE)
Naomi Osaka (JPN) v Venus Williams (USA x10)
Court 2 (2.30pm UAE)
Aljaz Bedene (GBR) v Gilles Muller (LUX x16)
Peng Shuai (CHN) v Simona Halep (ROM x2)
Jelena Ostapenko (LAT x13) v Camila Giorgi (ITA)
Jo-Wilfried Tsonga (FRA x12) v Sam Querrey (USA x24)
Court 3 (2.30pm UAE)
Kei Nishikori (JPN x9) v Roberto Bautista Agut (ESP x18)
Carina Witthoeft (GER) v Elina Svitolina (UKR x4)
Court 12 (2.30pm UAE)
Dominika Cibulkova (SVK x8) v Ana Konjuh (CRO x27)
Kevin Anderson (RSA) v Ruben Bemelmans (BEL)
Court 18 (2.30pm UAE)
Caroline Garcia (FRA x21) v Madison Brengle (USA)
Benoit Paire (FRA) v Jerzy Janowicz (POL)
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Abu Dhabi race card
5pm Abu Dhabi Fillies Classic Prestige | Dh110,000 | 1,400m
5.30pm Abu Dhabi Colts Classic Prestige | Dh110,000 | 1,400m
6pm Abu Dhabi Championship Listed | Dh180,000 | 1,600m
6.30pm Maiden | Dh80,000 | 1,600m
7pm Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap | Dh80,000 | 1,400m
7.30pm Handicap (TB) |Dh100,000 | 2,400m
Opening Rugby Championship fixtures: Games can be watched on OSN Sports
Saturday: Australia v New Zealand, Sydney, 1pm (UAE)
Sunday: South Africa v Argentina, Port Elizabeth, 11pm (UAE)
Abaya trends
The utilitarian robe held dear by Arab women is undergoing a change that reveals it as an elegant and graceful garment available in a range of colours and fabrics, while retaining its traditional appeal.
Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
Afghanistan squad
Gulbadin Naib (captain), Mohammad Shahzad (wicketkeeper), Noor Ali Zadran, Hazratullah Zazai, Rahmat Shah, Asghar Afghan, Hashmatullah Shahidi, Najibullah Zadran, Samiullah Shinwari, Mohammad Nabi, Rashid Khan, Dawlat Zadran, Aftab Alam, Hamid Hassan, Mujeeb Ur Rahman.
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
