The term "flying while Arab" was coined after the attacks of September 11, 2001, when the so-called war on terror began. It is a take on "driving while black", a reference to the racist profiling by police of African-Americans driving good cars.
Yet on a recent trip to Yemen, I discovered the other side to flying while Arab. There were none of the usual "random" security checks and interrogations at airports and visa sections that have unfortunately come to define the travel experience. In fact, travelling was a breeze. While Yemen recently stopped its visa on arrival scheme for nationalities including Brits and Americans, as a Syrian, I was exempt.
For the first time in memory, I flashed my travel document and strutted about at airports. My Syrian passport furnished me with the red carpet treatment anywhere I went and, I was told in a humorous but unsolicited exchange, would have even spared me getting kidnapped.
"You? When they find out you're Syrian they'll untie you," said a man who identified himself as a tribal member from the eastern Yemeni region, where tourists have been known to disappear.
"Your friend though, she'll have some trouble," he said, also in good humour, referring to my British friend who was travelling with me. We were having dinner in Sana'a with our Yemeni tour guide when the friendly tribesman struck up a conversation.
In my experience, travelling while Syrian almost always evokes "special treatment" from the host country. In the West it often invites extra security checks. But, as I am discovering, travelling while Syrian in the Arab world reveals a whole slew of new reactions, all as colourful and silly as inter-Arab politics.
In Lebanon, my Syrianness - as one Lebanese poignantly put it - invokes both unexpected kindnesses and hitherto concealed prejudices.
Initially I may not know that I am dealing with a staunchly anti-Syrian Maronite, for example, until I open my mouth and reveal my Syrianness.
Reactions vary from an abrupt end to conversation to outright hostility. By contrast, one Hizbollah supporter revealed his Syria-phile sentiments by offering me a "special" discount on a stash of bootlegged DVDs.
Gender too plays a major role. The last time I was in Amman, I was sat down and lectured about the virtues of being a Damascene woman, apparently a "catch" for many Jordanian and other Arab men.
"Oh yes," my friend's mother said. "As the saying goes: 'He who does not marry a Shamiyyeh, will not enjoy a single day of haniyyeh.'" Shamiyyeh is colloquial for a Damascene woman, and haniyyeh means marital bliss. But for at least one elderly Yemeni, a feisty grandfatherly man entrusted with opening the door to the national museum in Sana'a, this appeal was totally lost. As I waited for him to open up the museum, I decided to squat in its courtyard.
"It is not appropriate for a woman to squat like a man," he said, before grabbing my arm and escorting me to a bench. (He was right.)
"She's from Syria?" he asked the other museum guards around him in surprise. My lack of feminine charm notwithstanding, being Syrian in Yemen evoked people's best generous behaviour. It really was a complete departure from what my psyche had become accustomed to over the years.
Even while travelling on my American passport, which says I was born in Damascus, I sometimes face the challenge of showing to what extent I am a "real" American.
"Were you born American or are you an immigrant?" an airport official in Amsterdam once asked me. Luckily this is a moot point in the eyes of the US Constitution. Unlike in many societies, it is not culturally acceptable to ask people if they are "American American", in the same way someone might ask whether you are "French French?"
To some, being an Arab trumps all else. Israeli authorities are notorious for this logic, and there are numerous diplomatic hiccups between them and the US Department of State for mistreating US citizens of Palestinian origin.
Unfortunately, incidents of profiling can still reach new heights in stupidity. In one case, settled in court last year, an Iraqi émigré was refused boarding on the chartered airliner JetBlue that was departing New York JFK Airport to California. His crime? He was wearing a T-shirt with Arabic writing on it. Security officials asked Raed Jarrar, the plaintiff, to change or cover his shirt, but he refused. They allegedly told him: "Coming into an airport while wearing a T-shirt with Arabic letters on it is equivalent to going into a bank while wearing a shirt saying, 'I am a robber'." The court awarded him $240,000 (Dh881,000).
Being Arab trumps all for many Arabs too. The Syrians are not the only ones in this region who ignore my US nationality. I do not need a visa to enter Syria on my US passport, for example, when other Americans do. After all, a large portion of Arabs live in a diaspora and hold dual passports.
This Arabness that trumps all else can open and close doors during travel.
While in Yemen, I encountered both helpfulness and condescension from the same woman, a part-Italian part-Yemeni guesthouse owner and travel agent.
She was the epitome of Arab hospitality when I first contacted her to make reservations. We greeted each other over the telephone with what I like to call "cultural noise", the repeated "how are you?" and "hope you are in good health" exchange in Arabic. This serves more as a greeting than a genuine query about the other person's life, similar to the way ants touch antennae to discern each other's colony of origin. Such exchanges can take several minutes, with each person mumbling simultaneously "alhamdullah, and you?", before finally getting down to business.
But later, after I was a guest in her bed and breakfast, and I turned down some of the other travel services she wanted to sell, she became incensed. She switched to English and spewed some shockingly condescending remarks, accusing me and my travel companion of "not knowing how to travel" before charging for undelivered services. Though more a statement of her mental health than anything else, it is still interesting that when she decided to escalate matters, she also referred to herself by her Western name and stuck only to English.
Ultimately, a choice of identities is helpful when travelling, where flexibility and adaptability are key. One time, before the internet was so widely available, I inadvertently booked myself into a brothel in Paris, thinking it was a good value guesthouse. When I arrived there and realised my mistake, I found an Algerian man on duty as the concierge.
He remained unhelpful to me until I spoke Arabic. At that point his face changed from a stoic "cannot help you" attitude to the concerned, patriarchal, protective "we need to get you out of here" tone of voice. Thanks to him, I managed to find a last-minute room at a nearby Holiday Inn.
travel@thenational.ae
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Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
Dunki
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More coverage from the Future Forum
Sustainable Development Goals
1. End poverty in all its forms everywhere
2. End hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture
3. Ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages
4. Ensure inclusive and equitable quality education and promote lifelong learning opportunities for all
5. Achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls
6. Ensure availability and sustainable management of water and sanitation for all
7. Ensure access to affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all
8. Promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all
9. Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialisation and foster innovation
10. Reduce inequality within and among countries
11. Make cities and human settlements inclusive, safe, resilient and sustainable
12. Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns
13. Take urgent action to combat climate change and its effects
14. Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable development
15. Protect, restore and promote sustainable use of terrestrial ecosystems, sustainably manage forests, combat desertification, and halt and reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss
16. Promote peaceful and inclusive societies for sustainable development, provide access to justice for all and build effective, accountable and inclusive institutions at all levels
17. Strengthen the means of implementation and revitalise the global partnership for sustainable development
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Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
'Panga'
Directed by Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari
Starring Kangana Ranaut, Richa Chadha, Jassie Gill, Yagya Bhasin, Neena Gupta
Rating: 3.5/5
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The Lowdown
Us
Director: Jordan Peele
Starring: Lupita Nyong'o, Winston Duke, Shahadi Wright Joseqph, Evan Alex and Elisabeth Moss
Rating: 4/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Company name: SimpliFi
Started: August 2021
Founder: Ali Sattar
Based: UAE
Industry: Finance, technology
Investors: 4DX, Rally Cap, Raed, Global Founders, Sukna and individuals
The specs: 2018 Opel Mokka X
Price, as tested: Dh84,000
Engine: 1.4L, four-cylinder turbo
Transmission: Six-speed auto
Power: 142hp at 4,900rpm
Torque: 200Nm at 1,850rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L / 100km
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Spare
Profile
Company name: Spare
Started: March 2018
Co-founders: Dalal Alrayes and Saurabh Shah
Based: UAE
Sector: FinTech
Investment: Own savings. Going for first round of fund-raising in March 2019
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Xpanceo
Started: 2018
Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality
Funding: $40 million
Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)
8 UAE companies helping families reduce their carbon footprint
Greenheart Organic Farms
This Dubai company was one of the country’s first organic farms, set up in 2012, and it now delivers a wide array of fruits and vegetables grown regionally or in the UAE, as well as other grocery items, to both Dubai and Abu Dhabi doorsteps.
www.greenheartuae.com
Modibodi
Founded in Australia, Modibodi is now in the UAE with waste-free, reusable underwear that eliminates the litter created by a woman’s monthly cycle, which adds up to approximately 136kgs of sanitary waste over a lifetime.
www.modibodi.ae
The Good Karma Co
From brushes made of plant fibres to eco-friendly storage solutions, this company has planet-friendly alternatives to almost everything we need, including tin foil and toothbrushes.
www.instagram.com/thegoodkarmaco
Re:told
One Dubai boutique, Re:told, is taking second-hand garments and selling them on at a fraction of the price, helping to cut back on the hundreds of thousands of tonnes of clothes thrown into landfills each year.
www.shopretold.com
Lush
Lush provides products such as shampoo and conditioner as package-free bars with reusable tins to store.
www.mena.lush.com
Bubble Bro
Offering filtered, still and sparkling water on tap, Bubble Bro is attempting to ensure we don’t produce plastic or glass waste. Founded in 2017 by Adel Abu-Aysha, the company is on track to exceeding its target of saving one million bottles by the end of the year.
www.bubble-bro.com
Coethical
This company offers refillable, eco-friendly home cleaning and hygiene products that are all biodegradable, free of chemicals and certifiably not tested on animals.
www.instagram.com/coethical
Eggs & Soldiers
This bricks-and-mortar shop and e-store, founded by a Dubai mum-of-four, is the place to go for all manner of family products – from reusable cloth diapers to organic skincare and sustainable toys.
www.eggsnsoldiers.com
Where to apply
Applicants should send their completed applications - CV, covering letter, sample(s) of your work, letter of recommendation - to Nick March, Assistant Editor in Chief at The National and UAE programme administrator for the Rosalynn Carter Fellowships for Mental Health Journalism, by 5pm on April 30, 2020.
Please send applications to nmarch@thenational.ae and please mark the subject line as “Rosalynn Carter Fellowship for Mental Health Journalism (UAE programme application)”.
The local advisory board will consider all applications and will interview a short list of candidates in Abu Dhabi in June 2020. Successful candidates will be informed before July 30, 2020.
FFP EXPLAINED
What is Financial Fair Play?
Introduced in 2011 by Uefa, European football’s governing body, it demands that clubs live within their means. Chiefly, spend within their income and not make substantial losses.
What the rules dictate?
The second phase of its implementation limits losses to €30 million (Dh136m) over three seasons. Extra expenditure is permitted for investment in sustainable areas (youth academies, stadium development, etc). Money provided by owners is not viewed as income. Revenue from “related parties” to those owners is assessed by Uefa's “financial control body” to be sure it is a fair value, or in line with market prices.
What are the penalties?
There are a number of punishments, including fines, a loss of prize money or having to reduce squad size for European competition – as happened to PSG in 2014. There is even the threat of a competition ban, which could in theory lead to PSG’s suspension from the Uefa Champions League.
Ms Yang's top tips for parents new to the UAE
- Join parent networks
- Look beyond school fees
- Keep an open mind
Need to know
Unlike other mobile wallets and payment apps, a unique feature of eWallet is that there is no need to have a bank account, credit or debit card to do digital payments.
Customers only need a valid Emirates ID and a working UAE mobile number to register for eWallet account.
The specs: 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer
Price, base / as tested Dh99,000 / Dh132,000
Engine 3.6L V6
Transmission: Six-speed automatic
Power 275hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque 350Nm @ 3,700rpm
Fuel economy combined 12.2L / 100km
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
- Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
- Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
- Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
- Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
- The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
- Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269
*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
Fresh faces in UAE side
Khalifa Mubarak (24) An accomplished centre-back, the Al Nasr defender’s progress has been hampered in the past by injury. With not many options in central defence, he would bolster what can be a problem area.
Ali Salmeen (22) Has been superb at the heart of Al Wasl’s midfield these past two seasons, with the Dubai club flourishing under manager Rodolfo Arrubarrena. Would add workrate and composure to the centre of the park.
Mohammed Jamal (23) Enjoyed a stellar 2016/17 Arabian Gulf League campaign, proving integral to Al Jazira as the capital club sealed the championship for only a second time. A tenacious and disciplined central midfielder.
Khalfan Mubarak (22) One of the most exciting players in the UAE, the Al Jazira playmaker has been likened in style to Omar Abdulrahman. Has minimal international experience already, but there should be much more to come.
Jassim Yaqoub (20) Another incredibly exciting prospect, the Al Nasr winger is becoming a regular contributor at club level. Pacey, direct and with an eye for goal, he would provide the team’s attack an extra dimension.
The specs: 2019 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera
Price, base: Dh1.2 million
Engine: 5.2-litre twin-turbo V12
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 725hp @ 6,500pm
Torque: 900Nm @ 1,800rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.3L / 100km (estimate)
LILO & STITCH
Starring: Sydney Elizebeth Agudong, Maia Kealoha, Chris Sanders
Director: Dean Fleischer Camp
Rating: 4.5/5
What is the FNC?
The Federal National Council is one of five federal authorities established by the UAE constitution. It held its first session on December 2, 1972, a year to the day after Federation.
It has 40 members, eight of whom are women. The members represent the UAE population through each of the emirates. Abu Dhabi and Dubai have eight members each, Sharjah and Ras al Khaimah six, and Ajman, Fujairah and Umm Al Quwain have four.
They bring Emirati issues to the council for debate and put those concerns to ministers summoned for questioning.
The FNC’s main functions include passing, amending or rejecting federal draft laws, discussing international treaties and agreements, and offering recommendations on general subjects raised during sessions.
Federal draft laws must first pass through the FNC for recommendations when members can amend the laws to suit the needs of citizens. The draft laws are then forwarded to the Cabinet for consideration and approval.
Since 2006, half of the members have been elected by UAE citizens to serve four-year terms and the other half are appointed by the Ruler’s Courts of the seven emirates.
In the 2015 elections, 78 of the 252 candidates were women. Women also represented 48 per cent of all voters and 67 per cent of the voters were under the age of 40.
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
The Specs
Engine 3.8-litre, twin-turbo V8
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Power: 582bhp (542bhp in GTS model)
Torque: 730Nm
Price: Dh649,000 (Dh549,000 for GTS)
The view from The National
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, second leg result:
Ajax 2-3 Tottenham
Tottenham advance on away goals rule after tie ends 3-3 on aggregate
Final: June 1, Madrid
Match info
Australia 580
Pakistan 240 and 335
Result: Australia win by an innings and five runs
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Our legal advisor
Rasmi Ragy is a senior counsel at Charles Russell Speechlys, a law firm headquartered in London with offices in Europe, the Middle East and Hong Kong.
Experience: Prosecutor in Egypt with more than 40 years experience across the GCC.
Education: Ain Shams University, Egypt, in 1978.
