"If there be paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this," Jehangir said of Kashmir. Though it sounds better in the original Persian, one could hardly blame the Mughal emperor for being reduced to a stutter by the beauty of Kashmir, where the scent of roses rises from the hillsides and lakes glisten with the reflection of icy Himalayan peaks.
In Srinagar, flat-bottomed skiffs called shikaras, the Kashmiri version of a gondola, glide across Dal Lake to and from the city's distinctive houseboats.
The capital of the Indian portion of the divided region, Srinagar sits at the northern end of the Vale of Kashmir, a plain hemmed in on all sides by the protective walls of the Pir Punjal and Great Himalaya mountain ranges, as though nature wanted to keep this fertile patch of ground a secret.
Sadly, the secret got out long ago, and neighbouring Pakistan and India have been fighting over majority-Muslim Kashmir since the partition of the two countries in 1947. Though the conflict remains unresolved, the insurgency of the 1990s has petered out in the past five years. Srinagar is safe for visitors and now beckons Gulf tourists with the first direct flights launched this year.
The struggle is one of history's cruel ironies, for the faiths have long mixed happily in Kashmir itself. In 1592, when the emperor Akbar visited during Diwali, the Muslim ruler took the lead in celebrating the Hindu festival, illuminating the rooftops and boats along the river Jhelum. Today's visitors will be struck by the indomitable spirit called Kashmiriyat - a native culture of religious harmony and independence, neither Indian nor Pakistani, but of its own.
The city's famous Mughal gardens slope upwards from the eastern shore of Dal Lake. To get the lay of the land, hike up to Pari Mahal, or fairies' abode, a structure resembling a mediaeval fort that encloses no fewer than six garden terraces, built in the 17th century for no other purpose than to enjoy the commanding view of Dal Lake. At nearby Chasma Shahi ("royal spring"), the spring that waters the surrounding rose gardens is enclosed by a Mughal pavilion built by Shah Jehan, the man responsible for the Taj Mahal.
Harwan, a secluded reservoir just out of town, offers a respite from the crowds at more popular gardens, such as Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh. Nagarjuna, the most influential philosopher of Mahayana Buddhism, is said to have dwelt here, and the place retains a meditative atmosphere. Don't be surprised to find a bearded old man resembling a character from Tolkien wandering around repeating a haunting melody on a recorder.
Srinagar's mosques are built in a distinctive Himalayan style, rarely with minarets, but with a steeple-like central spire above tiered pagodas, and most are open to Muslims and non-Muslims alike. It's hard not to be moved by worshippers sobbing in the presence of the Dastgir Saheb shrine, the final resting place of a beloved Sufi saint in the heart of the Khanyar district.
Unmarked on most tourist maps is one of Srinagar's most mysterious shrines, Roza Bal, the tomb of a pre-Islamic holy man named Yuz Asaf. The Ahmadiyya Muslims believe him to be none other than Jesus Christ, who they say survived the crucifixion, travelled to India and ministered into old age before dying in Srinagar.
Srinagar makes an excellent base for outdoor adventures, with local hotels and travel agencies arranging hiking, fishing, rafting, waterskiing, camping and boat trips.
Finally, no trip to Srinagar is complete without an early-morning shikara ride on Dal Lake. Rise with the call to prayer, when the surface of the water reflects the darkened sky like mercury. The painted hulls and latticework railings of Srinagar's houseboats turn from black and white to vibrant colour as the sun emerges from behind the Himalayas. Be sure to bring a blanket, a camera and a pot of Kashmiri green tea.
Budget
A houseboat stay is an essential part of the Srinagar experience, and visitors have a surfeit of choice. At Yellow Submarine, US$13 (Dh47) per person includes two meals per day, internet access and a central location. Owner Rashid Pala and his sons make you feel like you're part of the furniture.
Yellow Submarine, near Dal Gate (bilal_hbys@yahoo.co.in; 00 91 9906 462 576 ).
Mid-range
Prices quickly escalate for larger houseboats. You'll find faded charm beneath the chandeliers of Butt's Clermont Houseboats, where guests have included George Harrison (who practised sitar here with Ravi Shankar), US vice-president Nelson Rockefeller, and Monty Python's Michael Palin. A boat costs $97 (Dh355) per couple, including three meals per day.
Butt's Clermont Houseboats, Hazratbal, Naseem Bagh (www.buttsclermonthouseboats.com; 00 91 19 4242 0325).
Luxury
Built in 1910 as the palace of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, the Lalit Grand Palace Srinagar is a sprawling estate with 115 suites, including 10 self-contained cottages. Doubles start from $300 (Dh1,103).
Lalit Grand Palace Srinagar, Gupkar Road, Srinagar (www.thelalit.com; 0091 94 2501 1001).
Breakfast
Pop into any of the numerous bakeries in the Dal Gate area to sample the unique Kashmiri breads, including sheermal, a sweetened flatbread. Hotel Broadway in the city's centre offers a buffet breakfast for $7.80 (Dh29). If a caffeine boost will suffice, the hotel's Coffea Arabica, a western-style coffee house, is a gathering point for Srinagar's chattering classes.
Lunch
Follow the locals, who tend to lunch at Shamyana on the Dal Lake boulevard and Mughal Darbar on Residency Road. Both offer unpretentious but tasty Kashmiri favourites, such as haaq saag (curried spinach leaves) and rogan josh (lamb with spicey tomato gravy) in an informal setting akin to an Italian trattoria. Main dishes with rice cost about $4 (Dh15).
Dinner
The wazwan is a Muslim Kashmiri multi-course meat feast treated with near religious sanctity. Unless you're invited to a local wedding, it might be difficult to experience a proper one, but for large groups that book a day in advance, Adhoo's Hotel offers no fewer than 17 dishes for $10.50 (Dh39) per head. You can also order à la carte wazwan dishes, such as gushtaba - meatballs in yogurt gravy.
Air India Express (www.airindiaexpress.in) launched the first international service to Srinagar in February, offering return flights from Dubai from $309 (Dh1,137), including taxes.
A paean to Kashmiriyat, MJ Akbar's Kashmir: Behind the Vale (2002) tells the story of the troubled paradise from the earliest times to 1991, while offering the Indian journalist's own view on the roots of the current conflict. Basharat Peer's Curfewed Night (2008) paints a harrowing portrait of Kashmir at war under the insurgency that began in 1989. Holger Kersten's Jesus Lived in India (1981) advances the unusual theory that Jesus is buried in Srinagar.
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Subscribe to Beyond the Headlines
GROUP RESULTS
Group A
Results
Ireland beat UAE by 226 runs
West Indies beat Netherlands by 54 runs
Group B
Results
Zimbabwe tied with Scotland
Nepal beat Hong Kong by five wickets
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
Director: Laxman Utekar
Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna
Rating: 1/5
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Eco%20Way%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20December%202023%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ivan%20Kroshnyi%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%2C%20UAE%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Electric%20vehicles%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Bootstrapped%20with%20undisclosed%20funding.%20Looking%20to%20raise%20funds%20from%20outside%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Sustainable Development Goals
1. End poverty in all its forms everywhere
2. End hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture
3. Ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages
4. Ensure inclusive and equitable quality education and promote lifelong learning opportunities for all
5. Achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls
6. Ensure availability and sustainable management of water and sanitation for all
7. Ensure access to affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all
8. Promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all
9. Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialisation and foster innovation
10. Reduce inequality within and among countries
11. Make cities and human settlements inclusive, safe, resilient and sustainable
12. Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns
13. Take urgent action to combat climate change and its effects
14. Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable development
15. Protect, restore and promote sustainable use of terrestrial ecosystems, sustainably manage forests, combat desertification, and halt and reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss
16. Promote peaceful and inclusive societies for sustainable development, provide access to justice for all and build effective, accountable and inclusive institutions at all levels
17. Strengthen the means of implementation and revitalise the global partnership for sustainable development
Thank You for Banking with Us
Director: Laila Abbas
Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum
Rating: 4/5
The%20specs%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.0-litre%204cyl%20turbo%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E261hp%20at%205%2C500rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E400Nm%20at%201%2C750-4%2C000rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E7-speed%20dual-clutch%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFuel%20consumption%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E10.5L%2F100km%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh129%2C999%20(VX%20Luxury)%3B%20from%20Dh149%2C999%20(VX%20Black%20Gold)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Normcore explained
Something of a fashion anomaly, normcore is essentially a celebration of the unremarkable. The term was first popularised by an article in New York magazine in 2014 and has been dubbed “ugly”, “bland’ and "anti-style" by fashion writers. It’s hallmarks are comfort, a lack of pretentiousness and neutrality – it is a trend for those who would rather not stand out from the crowd. For the most part, the style is unisex, favouring loose silhouettes, thrift-shop threads, baseball caps and boyish trainers. It is important to note that normcore is not synonymous with cheapness or low quality; there are high-fashion brands, including Parisian label Vetements, that specialise in this style. Embraced by fashion-forward street-style stars around the globe, it’s uptake in the UAE has been relatively slow.
Islamic%20Architecture%3A%20A%20World%20History
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAuthor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Eric%20Broug%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Thames%20%26amp%3B%20Hudson%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPages%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20336%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EAvailable%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20September%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
THE LIGHT
Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
