Amid yet another round of lockdowns and restrictions across Europe, Milan Men's Fashion Week autumn / winter 2021 is once more almost entirely digital, and, as a result, feels less exuberant than we perhaps prefer. In response, the clothes seem to be focused less on razor-sharp style, and more on comfort and solace, offering myriad ways to encase, cocoon and protect ourselves from the extremes of the world outside our front doors.
Here, we take a look at what the big-name designers have brought to the catwalks this year.
Fendi
Now headed by Silvia Fendi, the brand has released designs that have softened from past structure and offer comfort in these trying times. And what could be more comforting than quilting, and its downy layers? Here, Fendi has turned it into trousers, made from silk and cut on the diagonal, and great puffed-up dressing gown coats, tied loosely at the waist.
Elsewhere full-length knitted dungarees hung loosely from shoulder straps, and were worn over knitted jumpers for a look both relaxed and practical. Great high-necked woollen jackets were also worn loosely belted over shorts. There were even argyle sweaters with collars extended to double as a scarf.
In neutral shades of cream, black and grey (save for the closing salvo of jewel colours), the only decoration came in the form of illustrations, courtesy of Noel Fielding of The Great British Bake Off fame. His scribbly drawings in yellow, white and blue, when transposed on to a silken dressing gown coat, felt like rich embroidery.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna, too, offered more collarless dressing-gown coats, now in dogtooth tweed and in shades of earthy green, worn with loose-fit trousers and slip-on suede loafers. Showing a subtle shift from relaxed Italian tailoring to something even more laidback, the brand offered loosely tied jackets in dove grey-brushed cashmere, and softened, almost-slouchy trousers that pooled at the ankle. Even its suits were of an easier cut, now with pleated fronts and worn with fine-knit polo necks instead of shirts. Outerwear, too, seemed unstructured, with dropped shoulders, huge patch pockets, and barely a button in sight.
Etro
Etro's respite from Covid-19 came not with more relaxed tailoring, but from colours and patterning that spoke of travels around the globe. A light, silky dressing gown in Indian buta (or paisley, as it is widely known) appeared over sweatpants and a technical hoodie, while a delicate Japanese print decorated a bomber jacket worn with a polo neck.
Elsewhere, a Mughal-print jumper was teamed with English Harris tweed trousers, as a tartan mohair cardigan sat over paisley print pants. Technical hooded tops were worn under western piped jackets, and tracksuits arrived under flowing patterned coats.
Lush and decadent, this felt like the ultimate boho wardrobe, with rich velvet tailored jackets thrown in for a touch of luxe. For accessories, bags included the absolutely minute, those worn around the neck, Velcro pouches that fastened around biceps or ankles, and patchworked backpacks.
Prada
The second collection under the joint vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons centred around the traditional knitted long john. Once worn for practicality, warmth and comfort, now the item has made its return presumably for precisely the same reasons. Reaching from neck to ankle, it was delivered both plain and patterned (in Art Deco angles and flowers), it arrived under suits (with sleeves pushed right up), under roomy, collarless pea coats, and under oversized blouson jackets. In so many iterations, it felt like the duo were delivering a real alternative to dressing each day. Why wear two pieces (trousers and top), when you can just wear one? Keeping to that theme of practicality, even the gloves came armed with an integral zipped pocket.
Moschino
Over at Moschino, designer Jeremy Scott covered his looks with paint – quite literally. Against a backdrop of 1920s New York, he delivered outfits with trompe l'oeil folds and shadows painted over them. Jackets and suits came with exaggerated brushed highlights down fronts, arms and legs, and there was even a clever faux tracksuit, entirely hand drawn in the surface of a simple drawstring jacket and pants. With everything worn tucked into high lace-up boots, it carried an air of the home-made about it all, and teamed with shirts with button-down collars, all in all, it made for a very ingenious way forward.
MSGM
MSGM, meanwhile, staged an indoor snowstorm, perhaps to better express the bleakness of yet another European lockdown. The clothes felt like upscale climbing gear, now in vibrant pink, lemony yellow and patterns that could have been autumnal trees. There were overscale mountaineer outercoats, and multi-pocketed duster coats, with plenty of secure fastenings. The overlong webbed belts that came with every look were closed using carabiners and climbing cleats, offering fashion as a safety net for the soul.
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League final:
Who: Real Madrid v Liverpool
Where: NSC Olimpiyskiy Stadium, Kiev, Ukraine
When: Saturday, May 26, 10.45pm (UAE)
TV: Match on BeIN Sports
How to come clean about financial infidelity
- Be honest and transparent: It is always better to own up than be found out. Tell your partner everything they want to know. Show remorse. Inform them of the extent of the situation so they know what they are dealing with.
- Work on yourself: Be honest with yourself and your partner and figure out why you did it. Don’t be ashamed to ask for professional help.
- Give it time: Like any breach of trust, it requires time to rebuild. So be consistent, communicate often and be patient with your partner and yourself.
- Discuss your financial situation regularly: Ensure your spouse is involved in financial matters and decisions. Your ability to consistently follow through with what you say you are going to do when it comes to money can make all the difference in your partner’s willingness to trust you again.
- Work on a plan to resolve the problem together: If there is a lot of debt, for example, create a budget and financial plan together and ensure your partner is fully informed, involved and supported.
Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching
The years Ramadan fell in May
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
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The bio
Who inspires you?
I am in awe of the remarkable women in the Arab region, both big and small, pushing boundaries and becoming role models for generations. Emily Nasrallah was a writer, journalist, teacher and women’s rights activist
How do you relax?
Yoga relaxes me and helps me relieve tension, especially now when we’re practically chained to laptops and desks. I enjoy learning more about music and the history of famous music bands and genres.
What is favourite book?
The Perks of Being a Wallflower - I think I've read it more than 7 times
What is your favourite Arabic film?
Hala2 Lawen (Translation: Where Do We Go Now?) by Nadine Labaki
What is favourite English film?
Mamma Mia
Best piece of advice to someone looking for a career at Google?
If you’re interested in a career at Google, deep dive into the different career paths and pinpoint the space you want to join. When you know your space, you’re likely to identify the skills you need to develop.
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The language of diplomacy in 1853
Treaty of Peace in Perpetuity Agreed Upon by the Chiefs of the Arabian Coast on Behalf of Themselves, Their Heirs and Successors Under the Mediation of the Resident of the Persian Gulf, 1853
(This treaty gave the region the name “Trucial States”.)
We, whose seals are hereunto affixed, Sheikh Sultan bin Suggar, Chief of Rassool-Kheimah, Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon, Chief of Aboo Dhebbee, Sheikh Saeed bin Buyte, Chief of Debay, Sheikh Hamid bin Rashed, Chief of Ejman, Sheikh Abdoola bin Rashed, Chief of Umm-ool-Keiweyn, having experienced for a series of years the benefits and advantages resulting from a maritime truce contracted amongst ourselves under the mediation of the Resident in the Persian Gulf and renewed from time to time up to the present period, and being fully impressed, therefore, with a sense of evil consequence formerly arising, from the prosecution of our feuds at sea, whereby our subjects and dependants were prevented from carrying on the pearl fishery in security, and were exposed to interruption and molestation when passing on their lawful occasions, accordingly, we, as aforesaid have determined, for ourselves, our heirs and successors, to conclude together a lasting and inviolable peace from this time forth in perpetuity.
Taken from Britain and Saudi Arabia, 1925-1939: the Imperial Oasis, by Clive Leatherdale
UPI facts
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Richard Jewell
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Two-and-a-half out of five stars
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West Asia Premiership: Winners – Bahrain; Runners-up – Dubai Exiles
UAE Premiership: Winners – Abu Dhabi Harlequins; Runners-up – Jebel Ali Dragons
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UAE Conference: Winners – Dubai Tigers; Runners-up – Al Ain Amblers
Neil Thomson – THE BIO
Family: I am happily married to my wife Liz and we have two children together.
Favourite music: Rock music. I started at a young age due to my father’s influence. He played in an Indian rock band The Flintstones who were once asked by Apple Records to fly over to England to perform there.
Favourite book: I constantly find myself reading The Bible.
Favourite film: The Greatest Showman.
Favourite holiday destination: I love visiting Melbourne as I have family there and it’s a wonderful place. New York at Christmas is also magical.
Favourite food: I went to boarding school so I like any cuisine really.