Amid yet another round of lockdowns and restrictions across Europe, Milan Men's Fashion Week autumn / winter 2021 is once more almost entirely digital, and, as a result, feels less exuberant than we perhaps prefer. In response, the clothes seem to be focused less on razor-sharp style, and more on comfort and solace, offering myriad ways to encase, cocoon and protect ourselves from the extremes of the world outside our front doors.
Here, we take a look at what the big-name designers have brought to the catwalks this year.
Fendi
Now headed by Silvia Fendi, the brand has released designs that have softened from past structure and offer comfort in these trying times. And what could be more comforting than quilting, and its downy layers? Here, Fendi has turned it into trousers, made from silk and cut on the diagonal, and great puffed-up dressing gown coats, tied loosely at the waist.
Elsewhere full-length knitted dungarees hung loosely from shoulder straps, and were worn over knitted jumpers for a look both relaxed and practical. Great high-necked woollen jackets were also worn loosely belted over shorts. There were even argyle sweaters with collars extended to double as a scarf.
In neutral shades of cream, black and grey (save for the closing salvo of jewel colours), the only decoration came in the form of illustrations, courtesy of Noel Fielding of The Great British Bake Off fame. His scribbly drawings in yellow, white and blue, when transposed on to a silken dressing gown coat, felt like rich embroidery.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna, too, offered more collarless dressing-gown coats, now in dogtooth tweed and in shades of earthy green, worn with loose-fit trousers and slip-on suede loafers. Showing a subtle shift from relaxed Italian tailoring to something even more laidback, the brand offered loosely tied jackets in dove grey-brushed cashmere, and softened, almost-slouchy trousers that pooled at the ankle. Even its suits were of an easier cut, now with pleated fronts and worn with fine-knit polo necks instead of shirts. Outerwear, too, seemed unstructured, with dropped shoulders, huge patch pockets, and barely a button in sight.
Etro
Etro's respite from Covid-19 came not with more relaxed tailoring, but from colours and patterning that spoke of travels around the globe. A light, silky dressing gown in Indian buta (or paisley, as it is widely known) appeared over sweatpants and a technical hoodie, while a delicate Japanese print decorated a bomber jacket worn with a polo neck.
Elsewhere, a Mughal-print jumper was teamed with English Harris tweed trousers, as a tartan mohair cardigan sat over paisley print pants. Technical hooded tops were worn under western piped jackets, and tracksuits arrived under flowing patterned coats.
Lush and decadent, this felt like the ultimate boho wardrobe, with rich velvet tailored jackets thrown in for a touch of luxe. For accessories, bags included the absolutely minute, those worn around the neck, Velcro pouches that fastened around biceps or ankles, and patchworked backpacks.
Prada
The second collection under the joint vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons centred around the traditional knitted long john. Once worn for practicality, warmth and comfort, now the item has made its return presumably for precisely the same reasons. Reaching from neck to ankle, it was delivered both plain and patterned (in Art Deco angles and flowers), it arrived under suits (with sleeves pushed right up), under roomy, collarless pea coats, and under oversized blouson jackets. In so many iterations, it felt like the duo were delivering a real alternative to dressing each day. Why wear two pieces (trousers and top), when you can just wear one? Keeping to that theme of practicality, even the gloves came armed with an integral zipped pocket.
Moschino
Over at Moschino, designer Jeremy Scott covered his looks with paint – quite literally. Against a backdrop of 1920s New York, he delivered outfits with trompe l'oeil folds and shadows painted over them. Jackets and suits came with exaggerated brushed highlights down fronts, arms and legs, and there was even a clever faux tracksuit, entirely hand drawn in the surface of a simple drawstring jacket and pants. With everything worn tucked into high lace-up boots, it carried an air of the home-made about it all, and teamed with shirts with button-down collars, all in all, it made for a very ingenious way forward.
MSGM
MSGM, meanwhile, staged an indoor snowstorm, perhaps to better express the bleakness of yet another European lockdown. The clothes felt like upscale climbing gear, now in vibrant pink, lemony yellow and patterns that could have been autumnal trees. There were overscale mountaineer outercoats, and multi-pocketed duster coats, with plenty of secure fastenings. The overlong webbed belts that came with every look were closed using carabiners and climbing cleats, offering fashion as a safety net for the soul.
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Read more:
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The biog
Born: Kuwait in 1986
Family: She is the youngest of seven siblings
Time in the UAE: 10 years
Hobbies: audiobooks and fitness: she works out every day, enjoying kickboxing and basketball
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
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Zayed Sustainability Prize
How to help
Donate towards food and a flight by transferring money to this registered charity's account.
Account name: Dar Al Ber Society
Account Number: 11 530 734
IBAN: AE 9805 000 000 000 11 530 734
Bank Name: Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank
To ensure that your contribution reaches these people, please send the copy of deposit/transfer receipt to: juhi.khan@daralber.ae
What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The Bio
Name: Lynn Davison
Profession: History teacher at Al Yasmina Academy, Abu Dhabi
Children: She has one son, Casey, 28
Hometown: Pontefract, West Yorkshire in the UK
Favourite book: The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho
Favourite Author: CJ Sansom
Favourite holiday destination: Bali
Favourite food: A Sunday roast
The years Ramadan fell in May
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
Eyasses squad
Charlie Preston (captain) – goal shooter/ goalkeeper (Dubai College)
Arushi Holt (vice-captain) – wing defence / centre (Jumeriah English Speaking School)
Olivia Petricola (vice-captain) – centre / wing attack (Dubai English Speaking College)
Isabel Affley – goalkeeper / goal defence (Dubai English Speaking College)
Jemma Eley – goal attack / wing attack (Dubai College)
Alana Farrell-Morton – centre / wing / defence / wing attack (Nord Anglia International School)
Molly Fuller – goal attack / wing attack (Dubai College)
Caitlin Gowdy – goal defence / wing defence (Dubai English Speaking College)
Noorulain Hussain – goal defence / wing defence (Dubai College)
Zahra Hussain-Gillani – goal defence / goalkeeper (British School Al Khubairat)
Claire Janssen – goal shooter / goal attack (Jumeriah English Speaking School)
Eliza Petricola – wing attack / centre (Dubai English Speaking College)
The First Monday in May
Director: Andrew Rossi
Starring: Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, John Paul Gaultier, Rihanna
Three stars
PSL FINAL
Multan Sultans v Peshawar Zalmi
8pm, Thursday
Zayed Cricket Stadium, Abu Dhabi
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
65
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Sinopharm vaccine explained
The Sinopharm vaccine was created using techniques that have been around for decades.
“This is an inactivated vaccine. Simply what it means is that the virus is taken, cultured and inactivated," said Dr Nawal Al Kaabi, chair of the UAE's National Covid-19 Clinical Management Committee.
"What is left is a skeleton of the virus so it looks like a virus, but it is not live."
This is then injected into the body.
"The body will recognise it and form antibodies but because it is inactive, we will need more than one dose. The body will not develop immunity with one dose," she said.
"You have to be exposed more than one time to what we call the antigen."
The vaccine should offer protection for at least months, but no one knows how long beyond that.
Dr Al Kaabi said early vaccine volunteers in China were given shots last spring and still have antibodies today.
“Since it is inactivated, it will not last forever," she said.
SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20M3%20MACBOOK%20AIR%20(13%22)
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The specs
Engine: 3.8-litre twin-turbo flat-six
Power: 650hp at 6,750rpm
Torque: 800Nm from 2,500-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch auto
Fuel consumption: 11.12L/100km
Price: From Dh796,600
On sale: now
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MATCH INFO
Euro 2020 qualifier
Ukraine 2 (Yaremchuk 06', Yarmolenko 27')
Portugal 1 (Ronaldo 72' pen)
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GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
How to apply for a drone permit
- Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
- Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
- Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
- Submit their request
What are the regulations?
- Fly it within visual line of sight
- Never over populated areas
- Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
- Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
- Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
- Should have a live feed of the drone flight
- Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
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THE CLOWN OF GAZA
Director: Abdulrahman Sabbah
Starring: Alaa Meqdad
Rating: 4/5
The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
Match info
Premier League
Manchester United 2 (Martial 30', Lingard 69')
Arsenal 2 (Mustafi 26', Rojo 68' OG)
Electoral College Victory
Trump has so far secured 295 Electoral College votes, according to the Associated Press, exceeding the 270 needed to win. Only Nevada and Arizona remain to be called, and both swing states are leaning Republican. Trump swept all five remaining swing states, North Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin, sealing his path to victory and giving him a strong mandate.
Popular Vote Tally
The count is ongoing, but Trump currently leads with nearly 51 per cent of the popular vote to Harris’s 47.6 per cent. Trump has over 72.2 million votes, while Harris trails with approximately 67.4 million.
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
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Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
What can victims do?
Always use only regulated platforms
Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion
Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)
Report to local authorities
Warn others to prevent further harm
Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence
UAE squad
Ali Kashief, Salem Rashid, Khalifa Al Hammadi, Khalfan Mubarak, Ali Mabkhout, Omar Abdelrahman, Mohammed Al Attas (Al Jazira), Mohmmed Al Shamsi, Hamdan Al Kamali, Mohammad Barghash, Khalil Al Hammadi (Al Wahda), Khalid Eisa, Mohammed Shakir, Ahmed Barman, Bandar Al Ahbabi (Al Ain), Adel Al Hosani, Al Hassan Saleh, Majid Suroor (Sharjah), Waleed Abbas, Ismail Al Hammadi, Ahmed Khalil (Shabab Al Ahli Dubai) Habib Fardan, Tariq Ahmed, Mohammed Al Akbari (Al Nasr), Ali Saleh, Ali Salmeen (Al Wasl), Hassan Al Mahrami (Baniyas)
