If fashion is meant to be the stuff of dreams, then haute couture – its highest iteration – is the earthly echo of something magical. Or at least that’s what Valentino would have us believe.
With the physical show cancelled, the Italian house instead delivered a theatrical performance on Tuesday, July 21 to present its autumn / winter 2020 collection.
The presentation, entitled Of Grace and Light, was created in collaboration with British fashion photographer Nick Knight.
In a darkened space, 15 models, each wearing long white gowns, were atmospherically illuminated and suspended by hidden body harnesses. The models then began to slowly move and turn in time with the music, allowing the dresses to shift and fall.
Colourful images of birds' wings, feathers, flowers and embroidery were then projected on to these balletic figures, like a beautiful, slow-motion dreamscape.
Left as pure white, the gowns offered a stunning visual contrast to the inky shadows surrounding them. The brevity of the designs also allowed the eye to take in the skill of the atelier, seen in intricate layers of ostrich plumes, fragile horizontal pleating and capes covered in hand-cut ruffles.
Great clouds of fabric were made into ballooning sleeves and voluminous bodices, while another piece was bereft of adornment, left instead as a simple square-necked gown, offset with an elaborate headpiece of white flowers.
The oversized dresses, which must have been five metres in length, captured in their design nods to life's new beginnings, such as the trailing length of a baby's christening gown and the pure white of a wedding dress.
In the accompanying notes, creative designer Pierpaolo Piccioli spoke of "moments of reset or restart" throughout history, as a way of making sense of this pandemic. "White, the sum of all colours, captures the blank slate of this new beginning, the sense of infinite possibilities," he declared. "White as a sheet of paper waiting for it to be filled with lines and ideas."
With the coronavirus having created so much disruption across the world, Valentino is proposing we embrace it as a chance to start again with a clean slate.
The notes finish with the statement that "couture is an invite to dream with open eyes".
Of all the digital couture shows that have taken place over the past few weeks, Valentino's was undoubtedly the most astonishingly beautiful to behold.
Imaginative and ethereal, it offers us all a chance to dream, to embrace the poetic and to emerge from the darkness, bathed in light.
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Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
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5 of the most-popular Airbnb locations in Dubai
Bobby Grudziecki, chief operating officer of Frank Porter, identifies the five most popular areas in Dubai for those looking to make the most out of their properties and the rates owners can secure:
• Dubai Marina
The Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are popular locations, says Mr Grudziecki, due to their closeness to the beach, restaurants and hotels.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh482 to Dh739
Two bedroom: Dh627 to Dh960
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• Downtown
Within walking distance of the Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and the famous fountains, this location combines business and leisure. “Sure it’s for tourists,” says Mr Grudziecki. “Though Downtown [still caters to business people] because it’s close to Dubai International Financial Centre."
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh497 to Dh772
Two bedroom: Dh646 to Dh1,003
Three bedroom: Dh743 to Dh1,154
• City Walk
The rising star of the Dubai property market, this area is lined with pristine sidewalks, boutiques and cafes and close to the new entertainment venue Coca Cola Arena. “Downtown and Marina are pretty much the same prices,” Mr Grudziecki says, “but City Walk is higher.”
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh524 to Dh809
Two bedroom: Dh682 to Dh1,052
Three bedroom: Dh784 to Dh1,210
• Jumeirah Lake Towers
Dubai Marina’s little brother JLT resides on the other side of Sheikh Zayed road but is still close enough to beachside outlets and attractions. The big selling point for Airbnb renters, however, is that “it’s cheaper than Dubai Marina”, Mr Grudziecki says.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh422 to Dh629
Two bedroom: Dh549 to Dh818
Three bedroom: Dh631 to Dh941
• Palm Jumeirah
Palm Jumeirah's proximity to luxury resorts is attractive, especially for big families, says Mr Grudziecki, as Airbnb renters can secure competitive rates on one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh503 to Dh770
Two bedroom: Dh654 to Dh1,002
Three bedroom: Dh752 to Dh1,152
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German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
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