An operatic pop trio belted out song from the centre of a medical university plaza on Wednesday, while Dolce & Gabbana's showed its latest men's collection in tones of summer blues and geometric prints.
Just five months ago, there would have been little remarkable in such a scene.
But the coronavirus pandemic has largely put the kibosh on live fashion shows – with most fashion houses going digital to launch their summer collections for next year in both Milan this week and Paris last.
Also working against the fashion show ritual, cross-border travel has become difficult, if not impossible. Shoulder-to-shoulder seating is definitely out.
With these restrictions, the energy seems to have gone from fashion. Even if events have always been invitation only, even if they were marked by cramped seating and endless waiting for 15 minutes of flash, there was buzz. The live event – even for those who lived it secondhand – created its own excitement, something that has become excessively obvious in its absence.
In recent times, designers have experimented with skipping seasons, or merging men’s and women’s collections, both sure signs of ennui with the fashion drumbeat. But the coronavirus lockdowns and the push to digital platforms have only reinforced the role that the physical runway show plays in the wider system.
"The digital can’t substitute the live shows," Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s National Fashion Chamber said after the Dolce & Gabbana show, which also marked the designers’ resumption of membership in the organising body. “This live show gave more substance to fashion week.’’
The experience has convinced designers that the next round in September needs to be live as much as possible, he said. ‘"They will be smaller, with fewer people, maintaining distance, but we will try to do shows with all the necessary measures," Capasa said.
Dolce & Gabbana invited a fashion crowd that was a fraction of its usual size to the campus of the Humanitas University, where the designers are funding research into how the immune system reacts to the coronavirus, part of efforts to find a vaccine. The funding, announced in February before the coronavirus was identified in Europe, is ongoing.
Coincidentally, Dolce & Gabbana was the last fashion house to host a show in Milan after the first domestically transmitted case was identified just an hour from the Italian fashion capital while the fashion world was gathered for fashion week.
This time, show attendees had their temperatures taken and were asked to use gel sanitiser before taking their open-air seats, all socially distanced. Masks remained de rigueur.
For anyone missing luxury travel: The duo’s latest collection was inspired by striking geometric ceramic patterns at the Parco dei Principi Hotel in Sorrento, designed in 1960 by Gio Ponti.
With a palette of sea blues, the designers created an easy summer collection of oversized jackets with unfinished edges over baggy trousers, patchwork denim looks and cropped pants with tunics. Geometric forms offset by images of neoclassical statues were the collection’s motifs. Tailoring was mostly casual, with suit jackets sometimes incorporating knit panels, and the patchwork of denims gave the collection an edgy, street feel.
In a final nod to the changes brought by the pandemic, both Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana wore surgical-type masks as they took their runway turn, as the Italian trio Il Volo, serenaded the crowd with the classic Volare.
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ICC Academy, November 22-28
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Nov 22, v Malaysia
Nov 23, v Hong Kong
Nov 25, v Bhutan
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25. Hong Kong
34. Kuwait
35. Malaysia
44. Bhutan
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Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
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Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The Voice of Hind Rajab
Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
Abu Dhabi GP Saturday schedule
12.30pm GP3 race (18 laps)
2pm Formula One final practice
5pm Formula One qualifying
6.40pm Formula 2 race (31 laps)
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
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1 India 71 per cent
2 New Zealand 70 per cent
3 Australia 69.2 per cent
4 England 64.1 per cent
5 Pakistan 43.3 per cent
6 West Indies 33.3 per cent
7 South Africa 30 per cent
8 Sri Lanka 16.7 per cent
9 Bangladesh 0
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- Place a sun reflector in your windshield when not driving
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- Wrap your car to change the exterior colour
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Rugby World Cup (all times UAE)
Final: England v South Africa, Saturday, 1pm
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)
Power: 141bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh64,500
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Manchester City 0
Wolves 2 (Traore 80', 90 4')
Brief scores:
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Dybala 6', Bonucci 17', Ronaldo 63'
Frosinone 0
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Date started: Founded in May 2017 and operational since April 2018
Founders: co-founder and chief executive, Doaa Aref; Dr Rasha Rady, co-founder and chief operating officer.
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: Health-tech
Size: 22 employees
Funding: Seed funding
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Day 2, Abu Dhabi Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Dinesh Chandimal has inherited a challenging job, after being made Sri Lanka’s Test captain. He responded in perfect fashion, with an easy-natured century against Pakistan. He brought up three figures with a majestic cover drive, which he just stood and admired.
Stat of the day – 33 It took 33 balls for Dilruwan Perera to get off the mark. His time on zero was eventful enough. The Sri Lankan No 7 was given out LBW twice, but managed to have both decisions overturned on review. The TV replays showed both times that he had inside edged the ball onto his pad.
The verdict In the two previous times these two sides have met in Abu Dhabi, the Tests have been drawn. The docile nature of proceedings so far makes that the likely outcome again this time, but both sides will be harbouring thoughts that they can force their way into a winning position.
Zayed Sustainability Prize
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- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
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The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
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MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League, semi-final result:
Liverpool 4-0 Barcelona
Liverpool win 4-3 on aggregate
Champions Legaue final: June 1, Madrid
RESULT
Huddersfield Town 2 Manchester United 1
Huddersfield: Mooy (28'), Depoitre (33')
Manchester United: Rashford (78')
Man of the Match: Aaron Mooy (Huddersfield Town)
