“Success is a form of resistance,” noted Rami Al Ali in a statement ahead of his show, where he became the first Syrian designer to join the prestigious ranks of haute couture.
For his debut on July 10 in Paris – having shown off-schedule for a decade – Al Ali presented Guardians of Light, conceived as an homage to the precious handicrafts of his Syrian homeland, which had been endangered and almost forgotten during the country's long civil war.
Drawing on the beauty of courtyards in private Ottoman-era homes, the painted panels of Al Azem Palace, the dramatic splendour of Jami Al Darwishiyya and Khan As'ad Pasha, and the hypnotic rhythm of geometric mosque tiles, Al Ali distilled it all into a parade of looks united in an airy lightness.
In a discreet palette of cream, bisque, oat, crepe pink, powder blue, ash, dove grey, muted gold, black and white, Al Ali offered a plisse blue dress etched with mashrabiya patterns. The motif appeared again on a bone dress with a skirt that stood out like a bell; scattered in bronze around a long gold sheath; and as a gown in bone with the design built in three dimensions across the surface.
Elsewhere, a crisp patterning of blue lines traced from a halterneck fell to the floor, in geometric contrast to the flowing, plisse skirt, while two looks seemed to be woven from an intricate matrix of golden threads, echoing traditional Aghabani embroidery. This plaiting was also used to create a corset that floated over a gossamer chiffon gown.
Between these, Al Ali delivered the sculptural forms he’s known for: a stiff ruff rippling from shoulder to floor, beaded inside and out; cream folds that wrapped the body and spilled into kick-flare skirts like reams of paper; and high arcs framing the face and arms. Softer iterations appeared as long origami folds in eau de nil that swept the floor, and light latte pleats that swayed with each step.
In a statement to the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode ahead of the show, Al Ali explained why reworking Syrian heritage was important for him. “Every step forward, especially when you're coming from a place that’s underrepresented or misunderstood, is an act of quiet defiance,” he said.
With fitted silhouettes that offered sleek lines and restrained refinement, Al Ali proved why he deserves to be among the ranks of haute couture. It is the highest stage a dressmaker can aspire to, and a title bestowed on only a select few.
Having established his brand in Dubai in 2001, and showing his creations alongside the official haute couture week in Paris for 10 years, Al Ali has been quietly honing his skill to arrive at this point.
Devotees of his work will recognise his touches in this collection, from his whisper-light touch of placing a fold here, and deftly turning down a shoulder strap there. To the rest of the world, this show will announce the arrival of a talent worthy of their attention.
With the restraint and elegance he has made his own, Al Ali offered propositions that are refined, poised and achingly beautiful.
Al Ali has staked his claim on the international stage, with a collection filled with remarkable savoir-faire. A decade in the making, it has been well worth the wait.
The five pillars of Islam
Vaccine Progress in the Middle East
Tips to stay safe during hot weather
- Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of fluids, especially water. Avoid alcohol and caffeine, which can increase dehydration.
- Seek cool environments: Use air conditioning, fans, or visit community spaces with climate control.
- Limit outdoor activities: Avoid strenuous activity during peak heat. If outside, seek shade and wear a wide-brimmed hat.
- Dress appropriately: Wear lightweight, loose and light-coloured clothing to facilitate heat loss.
- Check on vulnerable people: Regularly check in on elderly neighbours, young children and those with health conditions.
- Home adaptations: Use blinds or curtains to block sunlight, avoid using ovens or stoves, and ventilate living spaces during cooler hours.
- Recognise heat illness: Learn the signs of heat exhaustion and heat stroke (dizziness, confusion, rapid pulse, nausea), and seek medical attention if symptoms occur.
Conflict, drought, famine
Estimates of the number of deaths caused by the famine range from 400,000 to 1 million, according to a document prepared for the UK House of Lords in 2024.
It has been claimed that the policies of the Ethiopian government, which took control after deposing Emperor Haile Selassie in a military-led revolution in 1974, contributed to the scale of the famine.
Dr Miriam Bradley, senior lecturer in humanitarian studies at the University of Manchester, has argued that, by the early 1980s, “several government policies combined to cause, rather than prevent, a famine which lasted from 1983 to 1985. Mengistu’s government imposed Stalinist-model agricultural policies involving forced collectivisation and villagisation [relocation of communities into planned villages].
The West became aware of the catastrophe through a series of BBC News reports by journalist Michael Buerk in October 1984 describing a “biblical famine” and containing graphic images of thousands of people, including children, facing starvation.
Band Aid
Bob Geldof, singer with the Irish rock group The Boomtown Rats, formed Band Aid in response to the horrific images shown in the news broadcasts.
With Midge Ure of the band Ultravox, he wrote the hit charity single Do They Know it’s Christmas in December 1984, featuring a string of high-profile musicians.
Following the single’s success, the idea to stage a rock concert evolved.
Live Aid was a series of simultaneous concerts that took place at Wembley Stadium in London, John F Kennedy Stadium in Philadelphia, the US, and at various other venues across the world.
The combined event was broadcast to an estimated worldwide audience of 1.5 billion.
Queen
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Sanju
Produced: Vidhu Vinod Chopra, Rajkumar Hirani
Director: Rajkumar Hirani
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UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
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Abu Dhabi World Pro 2019 remaining schedule:
Wednesday April 24: Abu Dhabi World Professional Jiu-Jitsu Championship, 11am-6pm
Thursday April 25: Abu Dhabi World Professional Jiu-Jitsu Championship, 11am-5pm
Friday April 26: Finals, 3-6pm
Saturday April 27: Awards ceremony, 4pm and 8pm
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Rating: 3/5
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Atletico Madrid 3
Greizmann (21', 49'), Gabi (89')
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Manchester City 4
Otamendi (52) Sterling (59) Stones (67) Brahim Diaz (81)
Real Madrid 1
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Developer: Big Ape Productions
Publisher: LucasArts
Console: PlayStation 1 & 5, Sega Saturn
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UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
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On sale: Now
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THE BIO: Martin Van Almsick
Hometown: Cologne, Germany
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Favourite dessert: Umm Ali with dark camel milk chocolate flakes
Favourite hobby: Football
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Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
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