Watches & Wonders Geneva is the most important event in the luxury watch calendar. Held each spring in the Swiss city, it serves as the global launch pad for the year’s most anticipated timepieces. Think Comic Con for watch enthusiasts.
From powerhouses like Patek Philippe and Rolex to experimental independents and fashion-driven icons like Cartier, the fair is showcases everything. It's where the industry reveals its direction of travel to collectors, connoisseurs and consumers alike.
But beyond the glitz of the booths and the hum of complications ticking away, Watches & Wonders offers something more fundamental: a window into how luxury brands are evolving.
In a world where smartwatches dominate wrists and attention spans are short, how does a mechanical watch remain relevant? The answer, this year, is clear: make it more expressive, more accessible and more personal than before.
From Rolex’s first new model line in more than a decade to mysterious new metals, Watches & Wonders 2025, which runs until April 7, suggests that fine watchmaking is alive and adapting. Here are some of the highlights so far.
The hero watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
The biggest headline so far has come from Rolex with the unveiling of the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Offered in 36mm and 40mm, the model includes a new Flat Jubilee integrated bracelet and features a clear caseback (a rare move from Rolex) showcasing the Calibre 7135 movement.
Rolex also leaned into playful aesthetics. Pastel dials in lavender, pistachio and sandy beige refresh the Oyster Perpetual line. When it came to its other models, the Datejust 31 made a statement with a red-to-orange gradient dial, while the GMT-Master II has a dial crafted from Tiger Iron, a striking natural stone.
Patek Philippe gets complicated
Patek Philippe showcased its prowess with the Ref. 5308G, a white gold marvel featuring a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar powered by a 799-part movement. In contrast, the Calatrava 8-Day offers a simpler elegance, combining classic design with more than a week of power reserve in a manual-wind format.
Cartier Tank a Guichets is a crowd favourite
Cartier delivered some of the most design-forward offerings. The Tressage collection fuses jewellery and horology, while the return of the Tank a Guichets, Cartier’s 1920s jump-hour watch, brings vintage mystique into the modern spotlight. It is popular with attendees and the watch press.
Tag Heuer brings back Formula One’s 1980s heyday
Tag Heuer has taken a more casual approach with the relaunch of its 1980s Formula One model as the Solargraph. This solar-powered, quartz-driven watch has a retro-inspired design, low maintenance and costs Dh7,500. It balances nostalgia with practicality.
Vacheron Constantin presents world’s most complicated wristwatch
Another record-breaker that captured imaginations was the Vacheron Constantin elaborately-named Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, unveiled as the world’s most complicated wristwatch. It features 1,521 separate components, which Vacheron Constantin is looking to protect through 13 patent applications, seven of which are tied to the chiming mechanism.
The watch trends
Design trends: colour, heritage, and flexible sizing
Colour has dominated the fair so far. Gone is the monochrome minimalism of past years. In its place: vibrant, personal palettes. Tag Heuer’s Solargraph editions come in bold reds and yellows, while Rolex’s pastel hues and Patek’s lacquered Nautilus models (7010) have contributed to a vibrant and expressive atmosphere.
Heritage also made a powerful return. Rather than simple remakes, brands have modernised vintage classics. TAG’s Carrera reappeared with a beads-of-rice bracelet; Zenith has paid tribute to its early chronographs in ceramic; and Cartier has revived a digital classic. These updates have resonated with collectors and newcomers alike.
Sizing has taken a more inclusive turn as well. Brands are offering a wide range, from Patek’s 38mm Calatrava to Tudor’s 43mm Pelagos Ultra (with 1,000m water resistance). Watchmakers are no longer pushing a one-size-fits-all narrative but acknowledging diverse wrist sizes and preferences.
Storytelling and record-breaking
This year’s fair underscores how watches are no longer just instruments of timekeeping but symbols of innovation and storytelling. One of the most talked-about debuts has been Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, now officially the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made at just 1.70mm thick. The achievement isn’t just technical, it’s visual and conceptual, pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can be.
In this digital, shareable age, record-setting watches like Bulgari’s, along with others featuring bold designs or limited-edition narratives, serve as attention magnets. These are watches designed not just to tell time but to tell a story and capture attention. And in an era where attention spans are short and digital impressions matter, that’s exactly what luxury needs.
Cosmic mechanics and architectural transparency
One of the most jaw-dropping debuts has come from independent atelier Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, whose Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite has redefined celestial watchmaking. Set against a real meteorite dial, it tracks planetary orbits in real time, blending mechanical poetry with astronomy in a 45mm case.
Material play and colour-driven design
Chanel has unveiled the J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1, a monochrome matte blue ceramic piece that feels like contemporary sculpture: minimalist, architectural and unmistakably Chanel.
Chronoswiss has brought an unexpected tone to the fair with its Pulse One Sand: a titanium-cased regulator in warm beige hues. It is equal parts tool watch and design experiment, showcasing that even classic layouts can carry subversive energy.
Panerai, not to be outdone, has delivered muscle and brainpower in the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech. A bold 44mm case houses a full perpetual calendar, bringing sophistication to Panerai’s rugged DNA.
High concept and anniversary statements
Czapek & Cie have introduced the Antarctique Tourbillon Secret Alloy, housing a flying tourbillon inside a minimalist steel case and featuring a dial made from a mysterious proprietary metal. It’s a watch that reveals more the longer you look.
Hermes has captivated with a signature blend of mechanical whimsy and poetic design. The Arceau Le Temps Suspendu has returned with refreshed aesthetics, letting wearers “pause” the time on command, alongside other metiers d’art pieces that blurred the line between horology and fine art. In an era of specs and status, Hermes offered an emotional counterpoint.
Hublot, meanwhile, has marked 20 years of its Big Bang collection with a trio of celebratory novelties. From carbon to coloured ceramic, the anniversary editions have reinforced Hublot’s identity as a brand that creates trends.
Honourable mentions and quiet standouts
Not every highlight has shouted for attention. Chopard has introduced the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS in platinum, an elegant evolution of its sports-luxe line, while Genus has unveiled the GNS2 Infinity Blue, a kinetic sculpture that continues the brand’s art-meets-time philosophy.
H Moser & Cie impressed with a new Endeavour Centre Seconds Purple Enamel, mixing restrained form with a vivid dial, and Jaeger-LeCoultre added gravity to the fair with a showpiece Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, a high complication dressed in art deco charm.
So far, the fair has balanced legacy and expression. Brands have dialled up emotion, design flair and narrative richness, embracing the idea that a watch isn’t just about time, it’s about storytelling and craft.
With offerings that range from interplanetary calendars to solar quartz reboots and poetic complications, the message is clear: technical brilliance and know-how means more than ever in a world where the basics will soon be taken over by the machines.
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
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Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
Jordan cabinet changes
In
- Raed Mozafar Abu Al Saoud, Minister of Water and Irrigation
- Dr Bassam Samir Al Talhouni, Minister of Justice
- Majd Mohamed Shoueikeh, State Minister of Development of Foundation Performance
- Azmi Mahmud Mohafaza, Minister of Education and Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research
- Falah Abdalla Al Ammoush, Minister of Public Works and Housing
- Basma Moussa Ishakat, Minister of Social Development
- Dr Ghazi Monawar Al Zein, Minister of Health
- Ibrahim Sobhi Alshahahede, Minister of Agriculture and Minister of Environment
- Dr Mohamed Suleiman Aburamman, Minister of Culture and Minister of Youth
Out
- Dr Adel Issa Al Tawissi, Minister of High Education and Scientific Research
- Hala Noaman “Basiso Lattouf”, Minister of Social Development
- Dr Mahmud Yassin Al Sheyab, Minister of Health
- Yahya Moussa Kasbi, Minister of Public Works and Housing
- Nayef Hamidi Al Fayez, Minister of Environment
- Majd Mohamed Shoueika, Minister of Public Sector Development
- Khalid Moussa Al Huneifat, Minister of Agriculture
- Dr Awad Abu Jarad Al Mushakiba, Minister of Justice
- Mounir Moussa Ouwais, Minister of Water and Agriculture
- Dr Azmi Mahmud Mohafaza, Minister of Education
- Mokarram Mustafa Al Kaysi, Minister of Youth
- Basma Mohamed Al Nousour, Minister of Culture
MATCH INFO
Quarter-finals
Saturday (all times UAE)
England v Australia, 11.15am
New Zealand v Ireland, 2.15pm
Sunday
Wales v France, 11.15am
Japan v South Africa, 2.15pm
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid
When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid
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Stars: Kangana Ranaut, Anupam Kher, Shreyas Talpade, Milind Soman, Mahima Chaudhry
Rating: 2/5
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Most sought after workplace benefits in the UAE
- Flexible work arrangements
- Pension support
- Mental well-being assistance
- Insurance coverage for optical, dental, alternative medicine, cancer screening
- Financial well-being incentives
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
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MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW
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The 12 breakaway clubs
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Arsenal, Chelsea, Liverpool, Manchester City, Manchester United, Tottenham Hotspur
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Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, Real Madrid
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 201hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 320Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
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Fuel consumption: 8.7L/100km
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The Sand Castle
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The specs
Engine: 2-litre 4-cylinder and 3.6-litre 6-cylinder
Power: 220 and 280 horsepower
Torque: 350 and 360Nm
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Price: from Dh136,521 VAT and Dh166,464 VAT
On sale: now
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
How Tesla’s price correction has hit fund managers
Investing in disruptive technology can be a bumpy ride, as investors in Tesla were reminded on Friday, when its stock dropped 7.5 per cent in early trading to $575.
It recovered slightly but still ended the week 15 per cent lower and is down a third from its all-time high of $883 on January 26. The electric car maker’s market cap fell from $834 billion to about $567bn in that time, a drop of an astonishing $267bn, and a blow for those who bought Tesla stock late.
The collapse also hit fund managers that have gone big on Tesla, notably the UK-based Scottish Mortgage Investment Trust and Cathie Wood’s ARK Innovation ETF.
Tesla is the top holding in both funds, making up a hefty 10 per cent of total assets under management. Both funds have fallen by a quarter in the past month.
Matt Weller, global head of market research at GAIN Capital, recently warned that Tesla founder Elon Musk had “flown a bit too close to the sun”, after getting carried away by investing $1.5bn of the company’s money in Bitcoin.
He also predicted Tesla’s sales could struggle as traditional auto manufacturers ramp up electric car production, destroying its first mover advantage.
AJ Bell’s Russ Mould warns that many investors buy tech stocks when earnings forecasts are rising, almost regardless of valuation. “When it works, it really works. But when it goes wrong, elevated valuations leave little or no downside protection.”
A Tesla correction was probably baked in after last year’s astonishing share price surge, and many investors will see this as an opportunity to load up at a reduced price.
Dramatic swings are to be expected when investing in disruptive technology, as Ms Wood at ARK makes clear.
Every week, she sends subscribers a commentary listing “stocks in our strategies that have appreciated or dropped more than 15 per cent in a day” during the week.
Her latest commentary, issued on Friday, showed seven stocks displaying extreme volatility, led by ExOne, a leader in binder jetting 3D printing technology. It jumped 24 per cent, boosted by news that fellow 3D printing specialist Stratasys had beaten fourth-quarter revenues and earnings expectations, seen as good news for the sector.
By contrast, computational drug and material discovery company Schrödinger fell 27 per cent after quarterly and full-year results showed its core software sales and drug development pipeline slowing.
Despite that setback, Ms Wood remains positive, arguing that its “medicinal chemistry platform offers a powerful and unique view into chemical space”.
In her weekly video view, she remains bullish, stating that: “We are on the right side of change, and disruptive innovation is going to deliver exponential growth trajectories for many of our companies, in fact, most of them.”
Ms Wood remains committed to Tesla as she expects global electric car sales to compound at an average annual rate of 82 per cent for the next five years.
She said these are so “enormous that some people find them unbelievable”, and argues that this scepticism, especially among institutional investors, “festers” and creates a great opportunity for ARK.
Only you can decide whether you are a believer or a festering sceptic. If it’s the former, then buckle up.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Ad Astra
Director: James Gray
Stars: Brad Pitt, Tommy Lee Jones
Five out of five stars
Company profile
Date started: 2015
Founder: John Tsioris and Ioanna Angelidaki
Based: Dubai
Sector: Online grocery delivery
Staff: 200
Funding: Undisclosed, but investors include the Jabbar Internet Group and Venture Friends
About Karol Nawrocki
• Supports military aid for Ukraine, unlike other eurosceptic leaders, but he will oppose its membership in western alliances.
• A nationalist, his campaign slogan was Poland First. "Let's help others, but let's take care of our own citizens first," he said on social media in April.
• Cultivates tough-guy image, posting videos of himself at shooting ranges and in boxing rings.
• Met Donald Trump at the White House and received his backing.
Five films to watch
Castle in the Sky (1986)
Grave of the Fireflies (1988)
Only Yesterday (1991)
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