The biggest headline so far at Watches & Wonders has come from Rolex, unveiling the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Photo: Rolex
The biggest headline so far at Watches & Wonders has come from Rolex, unveiling the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Photo: Rolex
The biggest headline so far at Watches & Wonders has come from Rolex, unveiling the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Photo: Rolex
The biggest headline so far at Watches & Wonders has come from Rolex, unveiling the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Photo: Rolex

Watches & Wonders 2025: The biggest new releases at the world's largest watch fair


Byron James
  • English
  • Arabic

Watches & Wonders Geneva is the most important event in the luxury watch calendar. Held each spring in the Swiss city, it serves as the global launch pad for the year’s most anticipated timepieces. Think Comic Con for watch enthusiasts.

From powerhouses like Patek Philippe and Rolex to experimental independents and fashion-driven icons like Cartier, the fair is showcases everything. It's where the industry reveals its direction of travel to collectors, connoisseurs and consumers alike.

But beyond the glitz of the booths and the hum of complications ticking away, Watches & Wonders offers something more fundamental: a window into how luxury brands are evolving.

In a world where smartwatches dominate wrists and attention spans are short, how does a mechanical watch remain relevant? The answer, this year, is clear: make it more expressive, more accessible and more personal than before.

From Rolex’s first new model line in more than a decade to mysterious new metals, Watches & Wonders 2025, which runs until April 7, suggests that fine watchmaking is alive and adapting. Here are some of the highlights so far.

Watches & Wonders brings together watch enthusiasts from around the world every year to witness the industry's latest launches. Photo: Watches and Wonders
Watches & Wonders brings together watch enthusiasts from around the world every year to witness the industry's latest launches. Photo: Watches and Wonders

The hero watches

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

The biggest headline so far has come from Rolex with the unveiling of the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, its first entirely new model line since 2012. Offered in 36mm and 40mm, the model includes a new Flat Jubilee integrated bracelet and features a clear caseback (a rare move from Rolex) showcasing the Calibre 7135 movement.

Rolex also leaned into playful aesthetics. Pastel dials in lavender, pistachio and sandy beige refresh the Oyster Perpetual line. When it came to its other models, the Datejust 31 made a statement with a red-to-orange gradient dial, while the GMT-Master II has a dial crafted from Tiger Iron, a striking natural stone.

Patek Philippe gets complicated

Patek Philippe showcased its prowess with the Ref. 5308G, a white gold marvel featuring a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar powered by a 799-part movement. In contrast, the Calatrava 8-Day offers a simpler elegance, combining classic design with more than a week of power reserve in a manual-wind format.

Cartier Tank a Guichets is a crowd favourite

The Tank a Guichet from the 1920s is making a comeback. Photo: Cartier
The Tank a Guichet from the 1920s is making a comeback. Photo: Cartier

Cartier delivered some of the most design-forward offerings. The Tressage collection fuses jewellery and horology, while the return of the Tank a Guichets, Cartier’s 1920s jump-hour watch, brings vintage mystique into the modern spotlight. It is popular with attendees and the watch press.

Tag Heuer brings back Formula One’s 1980s heyday

Tag Heuer has taken a more casual approach with the relaunch of its 1980s Formula One model as the Solargraph. This solar-powered, quartz-driven watch has a retro-inspired design, low maintenance and costs Dh7,500. It balances nostalgia with practicality.

Vacheron Constantin presents world’s most complicated wristwatch

Another record-breaker that captured imaginations was the Vacheron Constantin elaborately-named Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, unveiled as the world’s most complicated wristwatch. It features 1,521 separate components, which Vacheron Constantin is looking to protect through 13 patent applications, seven of which are tied to the chiming mechanism.

The watch trends

Design trends: colour, heritage, and flexible sizing

Colour has dominated the fair so far. Gone is the monochrome minimalism of past years. In its place: vibrant, personal palettes. Tag Heuer’s Solargraph editions come in bold reds and yellows, while Rolex’s pastel hues and Patek’s lacquered Nautilus models (7010) have contributed to a vibrant and expressive atmosphere.

Heritage also made a powerful return. Rather than simple remakes, brands have modernised vintage classics. TAG’s Carrera reappeared with a beads-of-rice bracelet; Zenith has paid tribute to its early chronographs in ceramic; and Cartier has revived a digital classic. These updates have resonated with collectors and newcomers alike.

Sizing has taken a more inclusive turn as well. Brands are offering a wide range, from Patek’s 38mm Calatrava to Tudor’s 43mm Pelagos Ultra (with 1,000m water resistance). Watchmakers are no longer pushing a one-size-fits-all narrative but acknowledging diverse wrist sizes and preferences.

Storytelling and record-breaking

This year’s fair underscores how watches are no longer just instruments of timekeeping but symbols of innovation and storytelling. One of the most talked-about debuts has been Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, now officially the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made at just 1.70mm thick. The achievement isn’t just technical, it’s visual and conceptual, pushing the boundaries of what a mechanical watch can be.

Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is just 1.70 mm thick. Photo: Bvlgari
Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is just 1.70 mm thick. Photo: Bvlgari

In this digital, shareable age, record-setting watches like Bulgari’s, along with others featuring bold designs or limited-edition narratives, serve as attention magnets. These are watches designed not just to tell time but to tell a story and capture attention. And in an era where attention spans are short and digital impressions matter, that’s exactly what luxury needs.

Cosmic mechanics and architectural transparency

One of the most jaw-dropping debuts has come from independent atelier Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, whose Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite has redefined celestial watchmaking. Set against a real meteorite dial, it tracks planetary orbits in real time, blending mechanical poetry with astronomy in a 45mm case.

Material play and colour-driven design

Chanel has unveiled the J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1, a monochrome matte blue ceramic piece that feels like contemporary sculpture: minimalist, architectural and unmistakably Chanel.

Chronoswiss has brought an unexpected tone to the fair with its Pulse One Sand: a titanium-cased regulator in warm beige hues. It is equal parts tool watch and design experiment, showcasing that even classic layouts can carry subversive energy.

Panerai, not to be outdone, has delivered muscle and brainpower in the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech. A bold 44mm case houses a full perpetual calendar, bringing sophistication to Panerai’s rugged DNA.

High concept and anniversary statements

Czapek & Cie have introduced the Antarctique Tourbillon Secret Alloy, housing a flying tourbillon inside a minimalist steel case and featuring a dial made from a mysterious proprietary metal. It’s a watch that reveals more the longer you look.

Czapek & Cie introduced the Antarctique Tourbillon “Secret Alloy”, housing a flying tourbillon inside a minimalist steel case and featuring a dial made from a mysterious proprietary metal. Photo: Czapek & Cie
Czapek & Cie introduced the Antarctique Tourbillon “Secret Alloy”, housing a flying tourbillon inside a minimalist steel case and featuring a dial made from a mysterious proprietary metal. Photo: Czapek & Cie

Hermes has captivated with a signature blend of mechanical whimsy and poetic design. The Arceau Le Temps Suspendu has returned with refreshed aesthetics, letting wearers “pause” the time on command, alongside other metiers d’art pieces that blurred the line between horology and fine art. In an era of specs and status, Hermes offered an emotional counterpoint.

Hublot, meanwhile, has marked 20 years of its Big Bang collection with a trio of celebratory novelties. From carbon to coloured ceramic, the anniversary editions have reinforced Hublot’s identity as a brand that creates trends.

Honourable mentions and quiet standouts

Not every highlight has shouted for attention. Chopard has introduced the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS in platinum, an elegant evolution of its sports-luxe line, while Genus has unveiled the GNS2 Infinity Blue, a kinetic sculpture that continues the brand’s art-meets-time philosophy.

H Moser & Cie impressed with a new Endeavour Centre Seconds Purple Enamel, mixing restrained form with a vivid dial, and Jaeger-LeCoultre added gravity to the fair with a showpiece Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, a high complication dressed in art deco charm.

So far, the fair has balanced legacy and expression. Brands have dialled up emotion, design flair and narrative richness, embracing the idea that a watch isn’t just about time, it’s about storytelling and craft.

With offerings that range from interplanetary calendars to solar quartz reboots and poetic complications, the message is clear: technical brilliance and know-how means more than ever in a world where the basics will soon be taken over by the machines.

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

 

ACL Elite (West) - fixtures

Monday, Sept 30

Al Sadd v Esteghlal (8pm)
Persepolis v Pakhtakor (8pm)
Al Wasl v Al Ahli (8pm)
Al Nassr v Al Rayyan (10pm)

Tuesday, Oct 1
Al Hilal v Al Shorta (10pm)
Al Gharafa v Al Ain (10pm)

Scorecard

Scotland 220

K Coetzer 95, J Siddique 3-49, R Mustafa 3-35

UAE 224-3 in 43,5 overs

C Suri 67, B Hameed 63 not out

QUALIFYING RESULTS

1. Max Verstappen, Netherlands, Red Bull Racing Honda, 1 minute, 35.246 seconds.
2. Valtteri Bottas, Finland, Mercedes, 1:35.271.
3. Lewis Hamilton, Great Britain, Mercedes, 1:35.332.
4. Lando Norris, Great Britain, McLaren Renault, 1:35.497.
5. Alexander Albon, Thailand, Red Bull Racing Honda, 1:35.571.
6. Carlos Sainz Jr, Spain, McLaren Renault, 1:35.815.
7. Daniil Kvyat, Russia, Scuderia Toro Rosso Honda, 1:35.963.
8. Lance Stroll, Canada, Racing Point BWT Mercedes, 1:36.046.
9. Charles Leclerc, Monaco, Ferrari, 1:36.065.
10. Pierre Gasly, France, Scuderia Toro Rosso Honda, 1:36.242.

Eliminated after second session

11. Esteban Ocon, France, Renault, 1:36.359.
12. Daniel Ricciardo, Australia, Renault, 1:36.406.
13. Sebastian Vettel, Germany, Ferrari, 1:36.631.
14. Antonio Giovinazzi, Italy, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:38.248.

Eliminated after first session

15. Antonio Giovinazzi, Italy, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:37.075.
16. Kimi Raikkonen, Finland, Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari, 1:37.555.
17. Kevin Magnussen, Denmark, Haas Ferrari, 1:37.863.
18. George Russell, Great Britain, Williams Mercedes, 1:38.045.
19. Pietro Fittipaldi, Brazil, Haas Ferrari, 1:38.173.
20. Nicholas Latifi, Canada, Williams Mercedes, 1:38.443.

ANATOMY%20OF%20A%20FALL
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJustine%20Triet%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESandra%20Huller%2C%20Swann%20Arlaud%2C%20Milo%20Machado-Graner%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%205%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
TECH%20SPECS%3A%20APPLE%20WATCH%20SERIES%209
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COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed 

Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Belong%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Michael%20Askew%20and%20Matthew%20Gaziano%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Technology%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETotal%20funding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%243.5%20million%20from%20crowd%20funding%20and%20angel%20investors%3Cstrong%3E%3Cbr%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2012%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
​​​​​​​Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km

While you're here
The specs: 2018 Mercedes-Benz E 300 Cabriolet

Price, base / as tested: Dh275,250 / Dh328,465

Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder

Power: 245hp @ 5,500rpm

Torque: 370Nm @ 1,300rpm

Transmission: Nine-speed automatic

Fuel consumption, combined: 7.0L / 100km

THE SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder

Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)

Power: 141bhp 

Torque: 250Nm 

Price: Dh64,500

On sale: Now

THE BIO: Martin Van Almsick

Hometown: Cologne, Germany

Family: Wife Hanan Ahmed and their three children, Marrah (23), Tibijan (19), Amon (13)

Favourite dessert: Umm Ali with dark camel milk chocolate flakes

Favourite hobby: Football

Breakfast routine: a tall glass of camel milk

MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid

When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid

2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups

Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.

Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.

Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.

Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, (Leon banned).

Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.

Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.

Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.

Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.

What%20is%20Dungeons%20%26%20Dragons%3F%20
%3Cp%3EDungeons%20%26amp%3B%20Dragons%20began%20as%20an%20interactive%20game%20which%20would%20be%20set%20up%20on%20a%20table%20in%201974.%20One%20player%20takes%20on%20the%20role%20of%20dungeon%20master%2C%20who%20directs%20the%20game%2C%20while%20the%20other%20players%20each%20portray%20a%20character%2C%20determining%20its%20species%2C%20occupation%20and%20moral%20and%20ethical%20outlook.%20They%20can%20choose%20the%20character%E2%80%99s%20abilities%2C%20such%20as%20strength%2C%20constitution%2C%20dexterity%2C%20intelligence%2C%20wisdom%20and%20charisma.%20In%20layman%E2%80%99s%20terms%2C%20the%20winner%20is%20the%20one%20who%20amasses%20the%20highest%20score.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Fixtures

50-over match

UAE v Lancashire, starts at 10am

Champion County match

MCC v Surrey, four-day match, starting on Sunday, March 24, play starts at 10am

Both matches are at ICC Academy, Dubai Sports City. Admission is free.

Straightforward ways to reduce sugar in your family's diet
  • Ban fruit juice and sodas
  • Eat a hearty breakfast that contains fats and wholegrains, such as peanut butter on multigrain toast or full-fat plain yoghurt with whole fruit and nuts, to avoid the need for a 10am snack
  • Give young children plain yoghurt with whole fruits mashed into it
  • Reduce the number of cakes, biscuits and sweets. Reserve them for a treat
  • Don’t eat dessert every day 
  • Make your own smoothies. Always use the whole fruit to maintain the benefit of its fibre content and don’t add any sweeteners
  • Always go for natural whole foods over processed, packaged foods. Ask yourself would your grandmother have eaten it?
  • Read food labels if you really do feel the need to buy processed food
  • Eat everything in moderation
The alternatives

• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.

• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.

• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.

2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.

• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases -  but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.

THE SIXTH SENSE

Starring: Bruce Willis, Toni Collette, Hayley Joel Osment

Director: M. Night Shyamalan

Rating: 5/5

ALRAWABI%20SCHOOL%20FOR%20GIRLS
%3Cp%3ECreator%3A%20Tima%20Shomali%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%C2%A0Tara%20Abboud%2C%C2%A0Kira%20Yaghnam%2C%20Tara%20Atalla%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000

Profile of Whizkey

Date founded: 04 November 2017

Founders: Abdulaziz AlBlooshi and Harsh Hirani

Based: Dubai, UAE

Number of employees: 10

Sector: AI, software

Cashflow: Dh2.5 Million  

Funding stage: Series A

Email sent to Uber team from chief executive Dara Khosrowshahi

From: Dara

To: Team@

Date: March 25, 2019 at 11:45pm PT

Subj: Accelerating in the Middle East

Five years ago, Uber launched in the Middle East. It was the start of an incredible journey, with millions of riders and drivers finding new ways to move and work in a dynamic region that’s become so important to Uber. Now Pakistan is one of our fastest-growing markets in the world, women are driving with Uber across Saudi Arabia, and we chose Cairo to launch our first Uber Bus product late last year.

Today we are taking the next step in this journey—well, it’s more like a leap, and a big one: in a few minutes, we’ll announce that we’ve agreed to acquire Careem. Importantly, we intend to operate Careem independently, under the leadership of co-founder and current CEO Mudassir Sheikha. I’ve gotten to know both co-founders, Mudassir and Magnus Olsson, and what they have built is truly extraordinary. They are first-class entrepreneurs who share our platform vision and, like us, have launched a wide range of products—from digital payments to food delivery—to serve consumers.

I expect many of you will ask how we arrived at this structure, meaning allowing Careem to maintain an independent brand and operate separately. After careful consideration, we decided that this framework has the advantage of letting us build new products and try new ideas across not one, but two, strong brands, with strong operators within each. Over time, by integrating parts of our networks, we can operate more efficiently, achieve even lower wait times, expand new products like high-capacity vehicles and payments, and quicken the already remarkable pace of innovation in the region.

This acquisition is subject to regulatory approval in various countries, which we don’t expect before Q1 2020. Until then, nothing changes. And since both companies will continue to largely operate separately after the acquisition, very little will change in either teams’ day-to-day operations post-close. Today’s news is a testament to the incredible business our team has worked so hard to build.

It’s a great day for the Middle East, for the region’s thriving tech sector, for Careem, and for Uber.

Uber on,

Dara

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Charlotte Gainsbourg

Rest

(Because Music)

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Twin-turbocharged%204-litre%20V8%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E542bhp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E770Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEight-speed%20automatic%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh1%2C450%2C000%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Power: 510hp at 9,000rpm
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Price: From Dh801,800
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?

1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

Updated: April 07, 2025, 11:17 AM