In what is undeniably the strongest Dubai Fashion Week to date, it was good to see more regional names bringing their A-game on Tues on Tuesday night - no mean feat for a programme that is upping the stakes with each passing season. And it was good to see more regional names bringing their A-game.
With his skill and experience, Filipino designer Michael Cinco, who lives in Dubai, was always going to get top billing. However, it was amazing to see how smaller brands such as Lama Jouni, Mrs Keepa and Riva are increasingly holding their own with collections that are well cut and brimming with ideas.
Michael Cinco
Michael Cinco, who has lived in the region since 1997, has built a global, devoted following for his dream-like collections that span resort, ready-to-wear, menswear and the highest iteration of all – haute couture.
He was at his sculptural best for this collection, leaning into the skill of his atelier to conjure looks that fitted, moved around and shifted the body to new dimensions. Using tulle and netting, Cinco moulded new shapes around his models, such as one fabulous mustard skirt that rippled in heavy folds (something of a Cinco signature), and worn with a bishop-sleeved top made of slices of fabric in mustard, pale blue and cream – a work of art.
A true couturier – of which there are less than 100 across the world – Cinco's mastery of fabric is second to none, be it oversized masculine suiting for a woman, or a molten pewter dress, poured around the body.
Such is the level of Cinco's reputation, that his shows are always at over-capacity, with crowds jostling for a glimpse at a runway that will have at least one beauty queen walking. Tuesday night's show featured Miss Universe 2024, Victoria Kjaer Theilvig from Denmark, clad in a red fitted gown, with a tulle overskirt.
With an unwavering instinct for a red carpet "moment", watching a shimmering Kjaer Theilvig cross the length of the runway – looking every inch the princess in her crystal strewn gown – it was clear that Cinco had brought the magic again.
Choice
Showing its Ramadan collection, regional name Choice offered a capsule aimed at ladies of taste and leisure. Jaunty, almost summery prints in red and white covered matching pyjama tops and bottoms for a summer-on-board-a-yacht feel, followed by a cream caped dress made entirely from wisps of something shimmery that swayed with every step.
Chic kaftans brought a relaxed silhouette, which widened into simple separates in colour blocking, best seen as a sleeveless top in oatmeal linen, mixed with a full skirt scattered with delicate flowers. Teamed with simple flats, it was light as air and every bit as breezy.
