Into the wild: there was a sense of menace amongst the masculinity at Milan Men's Fashion Week, but brands such as Dolce & Gabbana still managed to find beauty. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
Into the wild: there was a sense of menace amongst the masculinity at Milan Men's Fashion Week, but brands such as Dolce & Gabbana still managed to find beauty. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
Into the wild: there was a sense of menace amongst the masculinity at Milan Men's Fashion Week, but brands such as Dolce & Gabbana still managed to find beauty. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
Into the wild: there was a sense of menace amongst the masculinity at Milan Men's Fashion Week, but brands such as Dolce & Gabbana still managed to find beauty. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana

Beauty amidst the menace: Trends from Milan men’s fashion week autumn/winter 2025


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Top of the Netflix charts, the America Primeval series depicts the brutal and bloody Utah War in 1857 in the American West. The 'primeval' theme could easily have been an umbrella title for men’s autumn winter 2025 shows that have just taken place at Milan Fashion Week.

It's often tempting to ask what fashion weeks are even for in 2025. There are new ways of showcasing collections to the industry, the press and the public. But sometimes, a fashion week captures something about the ambient mood of the world. It shows that so many creatives around the world are thinking about the same thing at the same time.

In Milan there was a palpable sense that something menacing was being addressed, 'toxic masculinity' perhaps. But the brands still managed to infuse poetry into their collections.

Qasimi

Qasimi men's autumn/winter 2025 collection features clothes that echo Maori war cloaks. Photo: Qasimi
Qasimi men's autumn/winter 2025 collection features clothes that echo Maori war cloaks. Photo: Qasimi

The Sharjah-London brand Qasimi displayed a collaboration with Maori artist Emily Karaka, whose work tackles ancestral history, language, land loss and political oppression. In colours of burnt orange, ochre, russet red and shades of blues, the looks were like an ode to the landscape of Aotearoa. The show opened and closed with shaggy clothes covered in delicate fibres that echoed the Kahu kuri dog hair war capes of Maori chiefs.

Dolce & Gabbana

Sicilian beauty at Dolce & Gabbana menswear, autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
Sicilian beauty at Dolce & Gabbana menswear, autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana

While exploring the paparazzi flashbulbs of La Dolce Vita throughout their autumn/winter 2025 collection, Dolce & Gabbana also caught something darker and more threatening. With its fabled tailoring turned into elegant evening wear, it also arrived as oversized long coats, trimmed with fur and conjured up the villainous allure of the Sicilian mafia look that the label has flirted with for years.

Prada

Raw-edged faux fur worn under jackets at Prada men's autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Prada
Raw-edged faux fur worn under jackets at Prada men's autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Prada

At Prada, things were treated differently but were no less disturbing. Americana appeared as painted cowboy boots, while mohair was made into a top uncomfortably like human hair. As creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored base instincts and human nature as an apparatus for creativity, raw-edged pelts of faux fur were slung under and over jackets, to be worn like hunting trophies.

MSGM

MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti was inspired by films from the late 1990s and early 2000s such as Donnie Darko and Gummo. Photo: MSGM
MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti was inspired by films from the late 1990s and early 2000s such as Donnie Darko and Gummo. Photo: MSGM

MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti was inspired by starring roles in films from the late 1990s and early 2000s, like Jake Gyllenhaal's breakout turn in Donnie Darko and Harmony Korine in Gummo. The collection arrives as a fever dream landscape of hallucinogenic, giant Fly agaric mushrooms. Looking to blur the line between fantasy and reality, this trip down the rabbit hole spoke of parallel worlds, rebellion and even society's final days via thrift store coats, shrunken shorts and heavy, zip sided boots.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The White Lotus: Season three

Creator: Mike White

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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
New schools in Dubai
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
What is cyberbullying?

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Cyberbullying can take place on various platforms such as messages, on social media, on group chats, or games.

Parents should watch out for behavioural changes in their children.

When children are being bullied they they may be feel embarrassed and isolated, so parents should watch out for signs of signs of depression and anxiety

The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

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Ruwais timeline

1971 Abu Dhabi National Oil Company established

1980 Ruwais Housing Complex built, located 10 kilometres away from industrial plants

1982 120,000 bpd capacity Ruwais refinery complex officially inaugurated by the founder of the UAE Sheikh Zayed

1984 Second phase of Ruwais Housing Complex built. Today the 7,000-unit complex houses some 24,000 people.  

1985 The refinery is expanded with the commissioning of a 27,000 b/d hydro cracker complex

2009 Plans announced to build $1.2 billion fertilizer plant in Ruwais, producing urea

2010 Adnoc awards $10bn contracts for expansion of Ruwais refinery, to double capacity from 415,000 bpd

2014 Ruwais 261-outlet shopping mall opens

2014 Production starts at newly expanded Ruwais refinery, providing jet fuel and diesel and allowing the UAE to be self-sufficient for petrol supplies

2014 Etihad Rail begins transportation of sulphur from Shah and Habshan to Ruwais for export

2017 Aldar Academies to operate Adnoc’s schools including in Ruwais from September. Eight schools operate in total within the housing complex.

2018 Adnoc announces plans to invest $3.1 billion on upgrading its Ruwais refinery 

2018 NMC Healthcare selected to manage operations of Ruwais Hospital

2018 Adnoc announces new downstream strategy at event in Abu Dhabi on May 13

Source: The National

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Updated: January 22, 2025, 7:02 AM`