Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet has redefined its approach to timepieces with the release of a new collection designed specifically for the Middle East, made in collaboration with UAE collectors. This series, born out of a 2022 “Create the Extraordinary” workshop held in Dubai, marks a milestone as the first time the brand has engaged directly with collectors from the region to influence its designs.
The three pieces, engraved with “Special Edition” and “Create the Extraordinary”, are an example of Audemars Piguet’s dedication to collaborative luxury. By partnering with local collectors, the watchmaker has crafted a collection that stands as a tribute to both the brand’s heritage and the interests of its Middle Eastern clients.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in this series, constructed with a titanium case and bracelet and incorporating Bulk Metallic Glass for the bezel, caseback and bracelet studs, is notable for both its technical sophistication and aesthetic appeal. BMG, a palladium-based material known for its resilience and remarkable sheen, offers high resistance to wear, adding to the durability and lustrous finish of the piece.
The vertically brushed ivory dial, marked with Hindu-Arabic numerals, is complemented by rhodium-plated subdials and luminescent white gold hands. The moon-phase indicator at 12 o’clock harmonises with the overall aesthetic, enhancing the visual symmetry and cultural resonance of the watch.
Inside, the piece is powered by the Calibre 5133, an ultra-thin, self-winding movement first introduced in 2018. At only 2.9 mm thick, this patented movement integrates all perpetual calendar functions in a single plane rather than the traditional three, representing a significant achievement in micro-mechanics. The sapphire crystal caseback provides a view of the rhodium-toned oscillating weight adorned with an intricate arabesque motif inspired by Middle Eastern design.
Another piece in the series, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in white ceramic, is the first Royal Oak to feature both a case and bracelet crafted entirely from the sturdy material. This choice not only imparts a sleek, monochromatic look, but also gives the piece remarkable durability. White ceramic is highly resistant to scratches, making it a practical for a collector who values both aesthetics and longevity.
A blue aventurine inner bezel adds a striking contrast, evoking the clear, star-filled night skies over the region’s desert landscapes. This deep blue hue, framed by the ceramic, gives the watch a serene and powerful presence. The dial side features luminescent white gold hour-markers and blackened Royal Oak hands, optimising visibility while maintaining a balanced look.
The timepiece is powered by the Calibre 3132, featuring Audemars Piguet’s patented double balance wheel mechanism. Introduced in 2016, this innovation places two balance wheels on the same axis, enhancing precision and stability by reducing the effects of gravitational pull. The openworked design showcases this intricate mechanism, providing an unobstructed view into the watch’s inner workings while maintaining a sense of minimalism.
Rounding out this special collection is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, which sits on the sportier end of the spectrum, in a blend of black ceramic and stainless steel. The dial, crafted from meteorite, showcases a unique, stratified pattern that ensures each piece is visually distinct. Pink-gold Hindu-Arabic numerals add warmth against the grey inner bezel, giving the design depth and character.
This model is driven by the Calibre 2950, Audemars Piguet’s first self-winding movement to pair a central rotor with a flying tourbillon. Positioned at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon minimises the effect of gravity on timekeeping accuracy, representing a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern engineering. A grey rubber-coated strap completes the look, underscoring the piece’s sporty edge and making it an ideal choice for collectors who appreciate both refinement and functionality.
Audemars Piguet’s Middle East special-edition series marks a significant moment in the brand’s evolution, reflecting a shift towards more personal and culturally informed luxury. While the result is technically and aesthetically ambitious, it might be the business acumen it shows that is most impressive of all. Catering directly to one of the most dynamic watch markets in the world is a win for everyone involved.
