“It’s very much what women do, I would say. Shelter and protect,” says Serbian designer Roksanda Ilincic, founder of the eponymous Roksanda fashion label. She is talking about her approach to design, but also her drive to support other women.
She arrives for our meeting in Dubai Design District as a whirl of green sweeping through the door. Ilincic apologises profusely for being late and I am struck by how she is her own best advertising. The Serbian fashion designer, who lives in London, is wearing one of her own designs – yards of billowing fabric in a bright, crisp, chlorophyll green – and looks, well, pretty fabulous.
Ilincic and, by default, the Roksanda label, are best-known for their ebullient approach to colour – either used alone or beautifully clashing – and an innate flair for colour theory that works even in the flat grey light of London. Bold tones are mixed into elegant, sophisticated combinations that are fresh and dynamic, rather than brash or overpowering, while the cut of the clothes puts comfort to the fore. The result is stylish looks that are polished and considered, while packing a serious sartorial punch.
In Dubai for her first visit in seven years, Ilincic is amazed at how much the city has altered in that time. “The changes, such speed,” she says with a laugh. But while the landscape may have shifted, the loyalty of her customer base in the UAE has not.
“This market is absolutely phenomenal for me,” the designer tells me. “I think the customer here has always appreciated what I do from the very early stages, when I was just starting up and I was trying to find my voice. The women here really connected with, and gravitated towards, the colour, the shape, the quality, and that I like to cover rather than show off too much skin.”
Ilincic was born in Serbia and studied architecture and fashion at the University of Arts in Belgrade, before moving to London in 1999 to get her master’s degree in womenswear at Central Saint Martins, London. Her label, meanwhile, was launched in 2005 and is headquartered in London.
“In Serbia, the fashion scene, particularity for young designers, was simply not strong enough to support someone starting out. I was constantly exposed to British magazines – i-D, Face, Vogue – these were our bibles, and within those pages I discovered Saint Martins. The designers I respected all came from the same college, and I thought, that just can’t be a coincidence,” she says.
Her tutor was course director Louise Wilson, who also taught the likes of Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll, and who Ilincic credits with helping her find a unique perspective. “It was a real gift that Louise recognised my talent, because at other colleges I probably would not have been accepted. My work was very different. It didn’t contain much fashion, it was more about art.”
Under Wilson’s tutelage, Ilincic was encouraged to explore her love of colour. “This was a point of difference for me when I started, when maybe it wasn’t so appreciated, so understood. The trend was for neutrals – black, white, lots of grey and beige. Colour was looked down on and I wanted to shake that up, and modernise it, and propose combinations that were very unusual.
“London is very much about breaking boundaries, breaking rules and trying to do things a different way. I took all of these elements and mixed them together and came up with something that carries my voice even today,” she says.
“I don’t think it has changed much – it has evolved a lot, but the elegance and timelessness, and a modern femininity, that is something that I have been doing since day one.”
It is this blend of femininity and architecture – translated into exaggerated volume or precise tailoring topped with punchy colour – that has become her hallmark. And every piece, however show-stopping, is cut for wearability. Think roomy and unstructured dresses that skim rather than cling. With such a distinctive style, formed from armfuls of fabric ruched around the body, or cut straight into tunic dresses in contrasting colours, Ilincic’s bold silhouettes also offer a sense of freedom, in how the body is seen, covered and revealed.
The Roksanda spring/summer 2023 collection that was presented during London Fashion Week in September last year, for example, pulsated with energy, pitching fuchsia, orange and bumblebee yellow against inky black.
Taking place at Ilincic’s favourite show space, the Serpentine Gallery in Hyde Park, it was also the latest in a long line of artistic collaborations for the brand, this time with feminist artist Pipilotti Rist, who contributed the vivid brush stroke patterning that ran across silk scarves and flowing trousers.
Visually rich, the show presented dresses and skirts seemingly piled on top of one another, creating haphazard yet strangely beautiful shapes, while overskirts were twisted and knotted into new forms. Interestingly, for all the clever cutting on display, the tailoring was unrestrictive, with waists held loosely with belts or dropped completely.
One skirt in vivid pink swirled into a flower shape at the front and fell into a train at the back, and was worn with a sharp, collarless jacket. Another dress was an explosion of gothic black taffeta over petticoats of neon pink net.
Elsewhere, a sublime long-sleeved, draped dress in Tiffany blue – seemingly crafted from one piece of cloth – was gathered into a dramatic cut-out mid-thigh. Another ankle length dress in zesty tangerine came with huge sculpted sleeves and an exaggerated hem that rose and fell in dramatic folds, while the rest of the dress was carefully pleated to follow womanly curves. Dichotomy is at the heart of Roksanda. Directional yet wearable, commercially attractive but resoundingly edgy, the label mirrors Ilincic’s own complexity as a fashion designer who is embedded in the contemporary art scene.
“Art is so important to me. It’s usually the start and the finish of my collections, and is something that is constantly inspiring me. And art is so connected to our culture. It mirrors society in a similar way that fashion does, although artists have more freedom to express themselves fully, than I do as a fashion designer.”
While fashion puts pressure on designers to adhere to an unyielding timetable of show schedules, lead times and production calendars, Ilincic is clearly drawn to the inherent freedom of the art world.
“I love to support female artists, I love to be part of something that is bigger than just my brand. Working collaboratively with artists is really just a connection thing. It happened quite organically.”
Following the likes of designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Helmut Lang, who worked with artists Salvador Dalí and Vanessa Beecroft respectively, Ilincic has collaborated with an impressive stable of young, female artistic talent over the years. Her autumn/winter 2018 collection, for example, was created with performance artist Caroline Denervaud, while spring/summer 2015 was a collaboration with sculptor Julia Dault. Niki de Saint Phalle was a partner for spring/summer 2013, while Irish artist Eva Rothschild has also joined forces with the label.
In addition, such are her art world credentials, Ilincic was invited to be a guest curator at Sotheby’s in 2018, and her Mount Street store in London was designed by renowned architect Daniel Adjaye. It is a cross-pollination she clearly thrives on. “I am grateful to fashion for allowing me to meet these incredible women artists and work with them and create something together – I think it’s a true honour.”
While her clothes are shot through with architecture and art, as a woman designing for women, she is able to bring a very human element to her work. “Comfort is a very big thing and understanding what is needed, what we want to hide, what we want to show. By no means do I think that women are better designers than men; it’s just a different approach, and I think to have the choice is very important. It’s what feels better for you as a person.”
For Ilincic, this also means turning away from the dogma of trends and seasonal wardrobes, towards something more individual. “I am a huge ambassador for not following trends but following who you are, following your personality,” she says.
“I sell all over the world, to different countries, cultures and body shapes, and what became important was to create collections that are transitional, versatile and that fit with different climates and different needs. That happened a long time ago, and it is the best thing I did. Autumn/winter? Spring/summer? It really doesn’t matter.”
Empowerment is currently an industry buzzword, with many brands vowing to make their customers feel more in control. Ilincic, in contrast, offers a more nuanced approach. “For me it’s not just about creativity and pushing the boundaries, but also sheltering, protecting and creating pieces that will make women’s lives easier.
“This is something that I took from architecture, and the buildings that shelter and protect us. I feel that when you create a dress, it should make who ever is wearing it more confident and more themselves – a better version of themselves.”
That Roksanda has become a go-to for women who are regularly in the full glare of the media, including the Princess of Wales, former first lady Michelle Obama, Cate Blanchett, Emily Blunt, Amy Adams, Tilda Swinton, Anne Hathaway and Lady Gaga, is perhaps no coincidence.
“I do notice women who are in a particular spotlight or a certain point of vulnerability usually decide to wear me. This is something that they don’t necessarily always know fully, but is more a feeling, or an emotion they get when they are wearing my designs, and that is a huge compliment.
“I consciously want to shelter and protect, so when I see that they are using my brand in such moments, it gives me the direct proof that what I am doing is resonating and being understood. And I am not talking about the rain or cold, but I am talking about the emotional connection with the piece of clothing you are wearing.”
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup - Sept 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
Winners
Best Men's Player of the Year: Kylian Mbappe (PSG)
Maradona Award for Best Goal Scorer of the Year: Robert Lewandowski (Bayern Munich)
TikTok Fans’ Player of the Year: Robert Lewandowski
Top Goal Scorer of All Time: Cristiano Ronaldo (Manchester United)
Best Women's Player of the Year: Alexia Putellas (Barcelona)
Best Men's Club of the Year: Chelsea
Best Women's Club of the Year: Barcelona
Best Defender of the Year: Leonardo Bonucci (Juventus/Italy)
Best Goalkeeper of the Year: Gianluigi Donnarumma (PSG/Italy)
Best Coach of the Year: Roberto Mancini (Italy)
Best National Team of the Year: Italy
Best Agent of the Year: Federico Pastorello
Best Sporting Director of the Year: Txiki Begiristain (Manchester City)
Player Career Award: Ronaldinho
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Day 2, Dubai Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Pakistan’s effort in the field had hints of shambles about it. The wheels were officially off when Wahab Riaz lost his run up and aborted the delivery four times in a row. He re-measured his run, jogged in for two practice goes. Then, when he was finally ready to go, he bailed out again. It was a total cringefest.
Stat of the day – 139.5 Yasir Shah has bowled 139.5 overs in three innings so far in this Test series. Judged by his returns, the workload has not withered him. He has 14 wickets so far, and became history’s first spinner to take five-wickets in an innings in five consecutive Tests. Not bad for someone whose fitness was in question before the series.
The verdict Stranger things have happened, but it is going to take something extraordinary for Pakistan to keep their undefeated record in Test series in the UAE in tact from this position. At least Shan Masood and Sami Aslam have made a positive start to the salvage effort.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
EA Sports FC 26
Publisher: EA Sports
Consoles: PC, PlayStation 4/5, Xbox Series X/S
Rating: 3/5
Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Red flags
- Promises of high, fixed or 'guaranteed' returns.
- Unregulated structured products or complex investments often used to bypass traditional safeguards.
- Lack of clear information, vague language, no access to audited financials.
- Overseas companies targeting investors in other jurisdictions - this can make legal recovery difficult.
- Hard-selling tactics - creating urgency, offering 'exclusive' deals.
Courtesy: Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching
The years Ramadan fell in May
From Europe to the Middle East, economic success brings wealth - and lifestyle diseases
A rise in obesity figures and the need for more public spending is a familiar trend in the developing world as western lifestyles are adopted.
One in five deaths around the world is now caused by bad diet, with obesity the fastest growing global risk. A high body mass index is also the top cause of metabolic diseases relating to death and disability in Kuwait, Qatar and Oman – and second on the list in Bahrain.
In Britain, heart disease, lung cancer and Alzheimer’s remain among the leading causes of death, and people there are spending more time suffering from health problems.
The UK is expected to spend $421.4 billion on healthcare by 2040, up from $239.3 billion in 2014.
And development assistance for health is talking about the financial aid given to governments to support social, environmental development of developing countries.
Company profile
Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space
Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)
Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)
Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi
Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution)
Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space
Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh117,059
Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge – Rally schedule:
Saturday: Super Special Spectator Stage – Yas Marina Circuit – start 3.30pm.
Sunday: Yas Marina Circuit Stage 1 (276.01km)
Monday: Nissan Stage 2 (287.92km)
Tuesday: Al Ain Water Stage 3 (281.38km)
Wednesday: ADNOC Stage 4 (244.49km)
Thursday: Abu Dhabi Aviation Stage 5 (218.57km) Finish: Yas Marina Circuit – 4.30pm.
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs: 2018 Volkswagen Teramont
Price, base / as tested Dh137,000 / Dh189,950
Engine 3.6-litre V6
Gearbox Eight-speed automatic
Power 280hp @ 6,200rpm
Torque 360Nm @ 2,750rpm
Fuel economy, combined 11.7L / 100km
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%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Lee%20Sang-yong%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Don%20Lee%2C%20Lee%20Jun-hyuk%2C%20Munetaka%20Aoki%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3%2F5%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
South Africa squad
Faf du Plessis (captain), Hashim Amla, Temba Bavuma, Quinton de Kock (wicketkeeper), Theunis de Bruyn, AB de Villiers, Dean Elgar, Heinrich Klaasen (wicketkeeper), Keshav Maharaj, Aiden Markram, Morne Morkel, Wiaan Mulder, Lungi Ngidi, Vernon Philander and Kagiso Rabada.
If you go...
Flying
There is no simple way to get to Punta Arenas from the UAE, with flights from Dubai and Abu Dhabi requiring at least two connections to reach this part of Patagonia. Flights start from about Dh6,250.
Touring
Chile Nativo offers the amended Los Dientes trek with expert guides and porters who are met in Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino. The trip starts and ends in Punta Arenas and lasts for six days in total. Prices start from Dh8,795.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Off-roading in the UAE: How to checklist
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Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
The Voice of Hind Rajab
Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
HOW DO SIM CARD SCAMS WORK?
Sim swap frauds are a form of identity theft.
They involve criminals conning mobile phone operators into issuing them with replacement Sim cards, often by claiming their phone has been lost or stolen
They use the victim's personal details - obtained through criminal methods - to convince such companies of their identity.
The criminal can then access any online service that requires security codes to be sent to a user's mobile phone, such as banking services.
UAE Tour 2020
Stage 1: The Pointe Palm Jumeirah - Dubai Silicon Oasis, 148km
Stage 2: Hatta - Hatta Dam, 168km
Stage 3: Al Qudra Cycle Track - Jebel Hafeet, 184km
Stage 4: Zabeel Park - Dubai City Walk, 173km
Stage 5: Al Ain - Jebel Hafeet, 162km
Stage 6: Al Ruwais - Al Mirfa, 158km
Stage 7: Al Maryah Island - Abu Dhabi Breakwater, 127km
Porsche Macan T: The Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 265hp from 5,000-6,500rpm
Torque: 400Nm from 1,800-4,500rpm
Transmission: 7-speed dual-clutch auto
Speed: 0-100kph in 6.2sec
Top speed: 232kph
Fuel consumption: 10.7L/100km
On sale: May or June
Price: From Dh259,900
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FROM%20THE%20ASHES
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Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
European arms
Known EU weapons transfers to Ukraine since the war began: Germany 1,000 anti-tank weapons and 500 Stinger surface-to-air missiles. Luxembourg 100 NLAW anti-tank weapons, jeeps and 15 military tents as well as air transport capacity. Belgium 2,000 machine guns, 3,800 tons of fuel. Netherlands 200 Stinger missiles. Poland 100 mortars, 8 drones, Javelin anti-tank weapons, Grot assault rifles, munitions. Slovakia 12,000 pieces of artillery ammunition, 10 million litres of fuel, 2.4 million litres of aviation fuel and 2 Bozena de-mining systems. Estonia Javelin anti-tank weapons. Latvia Stinger surface to air missiles. Czech Republic machine guns, assault rifles, other light weapons and ammunition worth $8.57 million.
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THE BIO
Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979
Education: UAE University, Al Ain
Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6
Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma
Favourite book: Science and geology
Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC
Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.
RESULTS
6.30pm Handicap (TB) US$65,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner Golden Goal, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer)
7.05pm Dubai Racing Club Classic Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (Turf) 2,410m
Winner: Walton Street, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
7.40pm Dubai Stakes Group 3 (TB) $130,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner Switzerland, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar
8.15pm Singspiel Stakes Group 3 (TB) $163,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner Lord Giltters, Adrie de Vries, David O’Meara
8.50pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 (TB) $228,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Military Law, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.
9.25pm Al Fahidi Fort Group 2 (TB) $163,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner Land Of Legends, Frankie Dettori, Saeed bin Suroor
10pm Dubai Dash Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,000m
Winner Equilateral, Frankie Dettori, Charles Hills.
