Paris Fashion Week: Dior and Saint Laurent make a strong and practical start


  • English
  • Arabic

Paris Fashion Week has opened with shows from two of the biggest names in the industry.

At Dior, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back at the history of the house she now leads, turning to the 1950s, when Christian Dior was still at the helm. Chiuri chose three women who were prominent during that era as muses for this latest collection — French singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco, and Christian's sister, Catherine, who was a member of the French Resistance during the Second World War War and who survived being imprisoned by the Gestapo in Ravensbruck women's concentration camp.

A trench coat and beret at Christian Dior's autumn/winter 2023 show in Paris. AFP
A trench coat and beret at Christian Dior's autumn/winter 2023 show in Paris. AFP

Chuiri resurrected classic 1950s silhouettes, now made with modern, technical materials. Opening the show was a beautifully simple white shirt, half undone, and teamed with a sleek black pencil skirt. Finishing the look were leather opera gloves, sheer ankle socks and pointed, ankle-strap pumps.

With customers worldwide expressing a desire for simple, practical pieces that will stand the test of time, the collection was pared-back and streamlined, both in terms of pieces on offer and the outlines, yet remained wonderfully, elegantly chic.

Fabrics were woven and boned with invisible metal to allow garments to be moulded for the perfect fit while providing a charmingly crumpled feel that looked artfully undone and lived in, like treasured pieces worn again and again.

The 1950s-inspired shapes continued as pencil skirts and full skirts, arriving without the rigid boning of the originals, instead cut to be looser, lighter and far less formal, echoing the need for comfort in the modern world. Many dresses and skirts were covered with differing blurred, hazy patterns, such as flowers seen through mesh or street maps of Paris — the city the house helped to make one of the fashion capitals of the world.

Saint Laurent

The Saint Laurent womenswear autumn/winter 2023 show. Getty Images
The Saint Laurent womenswear autumn/winter 2023 show. Getty Images

Over at Saint Laurent, meanwhile, creative director Anthony Vaccarello delivered a very different take on autumn/winter dressing. The collection also paid homage to eras past, but the inspiration for it was the ostentatious power-dressing of the 1980s.

The entire collection was created around the same exaggerated shoulder outline, offered in different combinations and fabrics. A single or double-breasted jacket with oversized shoulders was teamed with either over-the-knee thigh-split skirts or super-skinny trousers. A leather blouson jacket in equally outlandish proportions, dragged in one hand down the runway, offered some variation.

Although similar at first glance, as is typical of Vaccerello at Saint Laurent, the devil was in the detail. From black-on-black pinstripe to Harris tweed and tartan, constant shifts in fabric offered variation to the collection. Tops worn underneath jackets were made in plain silk scooped low in the front, or as sheer pussy-bow blouses featuring chiffon scarves that trailed down the back.

While the collection may have centered on the practicality of the suit, it still offered plenty of evening glam inspiration. Models were styled with slicked-back hair, dark glasses, huge hoop earrings and spike-heel pumps — taking office wear from day to night. Interestingly, there was only one dress (by my count, at least), made in elegantly draped chiffon.

The collection was very singular in its message, but working to one theme is one of Vaccarello's strengths — he can inhabit an idea so completely there is no need for anything else. Those who love fitted skirts and skin-tight trousers — as many Saint Laurent customers do — will love this collection.

Fight card

Bantamweight

Siyovush Gulmamadov (TJK) v Rey Nacionales (PHI)

Lightweight

Alexandru Chitoran (ROM) v Hussein Fakhir Abed (SYR)

Catch 74kg

Tohir Zhuraev (TJK) v Omar Hussein (JOR)

Strawweight (Female)

Weronika Zygmunt (POL) v Seo Ye-dam (KOR)

Featherweight

Kaan Ofli (TUR) v Walid Laidi (ALG)

Lightweight

Leandro Martins (BRA) v Abdulla Al Bousheiri (KUW)

Welterweight

Ahmad Labban (LEB) v Sofiane Benchohra (ALG)

Bantamweight

Jaures Dea (CAM) v Nawras Abzakh (JOR)

Lightweight

Mohammed Yahya (UAE) v Glen Ranillo (PHI)

Lightweight

Alan Omer (GER) v Aidan Aguilera (AUS)

Welterweight

Mounir Lazzez (TUN) Sasha Palatnikov (HKG)

Featherweight title bout

Romando Dy (PHI) v Lee Do-gyeom (KOR)

ESSENTIALS

The flights 
Emirates, Etihad and Swiss fly direct from the UAE to Zurich from Dh2,855 return, including taxes.
 

The chalet
Chalet N is currently open in winter only, between now and April 21. During the ski season, starting on December 11, a week’s rental costs from €210,000 (Dh898,431) per week for the whole property, which has 22 beds in total, across six suites, three double rooms and a children’s suite. The price includes all scheduled meals, a week’s ski pass, Wi-Fi, parking, transfers between Munich, Innsbruck or Zurich airports and one 50-minute massage per person. Private ski lessons cost from €360 (Dh1,541) per day. Halal food is available on request.

War 2

Director: Ayan Mukerji

Stars: Hrithik Roshan, NTR, Kiara Advani, Ashutosh Rana

Rating: 2/5

The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm

Transmission: 9-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh117,059

Specs

Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request

Test

Director: S Sashikanth

Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan

Star rating: 2/5

While you're here
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

BMW M5 specs

Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor

Power: 727hp

Torque: 1,000Nm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 10.6L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh650,000

The National's picks

4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Spain drain

CONVICTED

Lionel Messi Found guilty in 2016 of of using companies in Belize, Britain, Switzerland and Uruguay to avoid paying €4.1m in taxes on income earned from image rights. Sentenced to 21 months in jail and fined more than €2m. But prison sentence has since been replaced by another fine of €252,000.

Javier Mascherano Accepted one-year suspended sentence in January 2016 for tax fraud after found guilty of failing to pay €1.5m in taxes for 2011 and 2012. Unlike Messi he avoided trial by admitting to tax evasion.

Angel di Maria Argentina and Paris Saint-Germain star Angel di Maria was fined and given a 16-month prison sentence for tax fraud during his time at Real Madrid. But he is unlikely to go to prison as is normal in Spain for first offences for non-violent crimes carrying sentence of less than two years.

 

SUSPECTED

Cristiano Ronaldo Real Madrid's star striker, accused of evading €14.7m in taxes, appears in court on Monday. Portuguese star faces four charges of fraud through offshore companies.

Jose Mourinho Manchester United manager accused of evading €3.3m in tax in 2011 and 2012, during time in charge at Real Madrid. But Gestifute, which represents him, says he has already settled matter with Spanish tax authorities.

Samuel Eto'o In November 2016, Spanish prosecutors sought jail sentence of 10 years and fines totalling €18m for Cameroonian, accused of failing to pay €3.9m in taxes during time at Barcelona from 2004 to 2009.

Radamel Falcao Colombian striker Falcao suspected of failing to correctly declare €7.4m of income earned from image rights between 2012 and 2013 while at Atletico Madrid. He has since paid €8.2m to Spanish tax authorities, a sum that includes interest on the original amount.

Jorge Mendes Portuguese super-agent put under official investigation last month by Spanish court investigating alleged tax evasion by Falcao, a client of his. He defended himself, telling closed-door hearing he "never" advised players in tax matters.

Name: Colm McLoughlin

Country: Galway, Ireland

Job: Executive vice chairman and chief executive of Dubai Duty Free

Favourite golf course: Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club

Favourite part of Dubai: Palm Jumeirah

 

Tewellah by Nawal Zoghbi is out now.

Company Profile

Company name: Yeepeey

Started: Soft launch in November, 2020

Founders: Sagar Chandiramani, Jatin Sharma and Monish Chandiramani

Based: Dubai

Industry: E-grocery

Initial investment: $150,000

Future plan: Raise $1.5m and enter Saudi Arabia next year

EPL's youngest
  • Ethan Nwaneri (Arsenal)
    15 years, 181 days old
  • Max Dowman (Arsenal)
    15 years, 235 days old
  • Jeremy Monga (Leicester)
    15 years, 271 days old
  • Harvey Elliott (Fulham)
    16 years, 30 days old
  • Matthew Briggs (Fulham)
    16 years, 68 days old
Volvo ES90 Specs

Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)

Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp

Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm

On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region

Price: Exact regional pricing TBA

Racecard

2pm Handicap Dh 90,000 1,800m

2.30pm Handicap Dh120,000 1,950m

3pm Handicap Dh105,000 1,600m

3.30pm Jebel Ali Classic Conditions Dh300,000 1,400m

4pm Maiden Dh75,000 1,600m

4.30pm Conditions Dh250,000 1,400m

5pm Maiden Dh75,000 1,600m

5.30pm Handicap Dh85,000 1,000m

 

The National selections:

2pm Arch Gold

2.30pm Conclusion

3pm Al Battar

3.30pm Golden Jaguar

4pm Al Motayar

4.30pm Tapi Sioux

5pm Leadership

5.30pm Dahawi

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Star%20Wars%3A%20Episode%20I%20%E2%80%93%20The%20Phantom%20Menace
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDeveloper%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Big%20Ape%20Productions%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20LucasArts%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EConsoles%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20PC%2C%20PlayStation%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
FIXTURES

Monday, January 28
Iran v Japan, Hazza bin Zayed Stadium (6pm)

Tuesday, January 29
UAEv Qatar, Mohamed Bin Zayed Stadium (6pm)

Friday, February 1
Final, Zayed Sports City Stadium (6pm)

Why are asylum seekers being housed in hotels?

The number of asylum applications in the UK has reached a new record high, driven by those illegally entering the country in small boats crossing the English Channel.

A total of 111,084 people applied for asylum in the UK in the year to June 2025, the highest number for any 12-month period since current records began in 2001.

Asylum seekers and their families can be housed in temporary accommodation while their claim is assessed.

The Home Office provides the accommodation, meaning asylum seekers cannot choose where they live.

When there is not enough housing, the Home Office can move people to hotels or large sites like former military bases.

Updated: March 01, 2023, 1:23 PM`