The New York Fashion Week shows for spring/summer 2023 are well under way in Manhattan, with day four of the event unfolding.
There have been plenty of highlights and drama already, from Fendi celebrating the 25th anniversary of its Baguette bag, to Kim and Khloe Kardashian, and Kate Moss, all sitting front row, plus rain pouring down on the open-air Tommy Hilfiger event, drenching the crowd and models alike.
While it is a little early to start listing definitive trends, there are a few front runners worth noting.
With the rest of the week still to go, followed by London, Milan and Paris next, there's plenty more to come, but here's what's hot on the runways so far.
Bright neons
A continuation of post-pandemic optimism, bright neons are already making a strong showing in New York.
Seen as acid yellow and neon green at Fendi's special winter 2022 capsule collection, shocking pink at Prabal Gurung, and bright yellow at Proenza Schouler and Tommy Hilfiger, this looks like a trend that's here to stay.
Y2K vibes
Brands are looking to the sunny side of the street, harking back to the past and simpler days. In New York, this is materialising as a tendency to look back to the year 2000, with cut-out panels, such as at Victor Glemaud and Dion Lee, belly-baring crop tops (Prabal Gurung and Eckhaus Latta) and even tie-dye.
Rather than crude and hippy-ish, this is now elegant and refined, such as Japanese shibori, as seen at Altuzarra and Ulla Johnson.
A touch of luxe
Glossy satin seems to be having a moment on the New York runways, presumably to bring a dash of luxury to everyday life. Fendi sent out a silky jumpsuit, and Anonlychild offered satin shirts, while Khaite presented satin blazers and puff ball skirts.
Over at Marni, meanwhile, this luxurious fabric was cut into a rainbow dress with long, draped sleeves.
Underwear as outerwear
Another nod to the past is the resurgence of underwear as outwear. First seen in the 1990s courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier and one Madonna, it is now here again.
Structured and heavily boned, this is more corseting than clingy slip dresses, offering a tight-laced alternative to tops.
At Prabal Gurung, this arrived as a cropped short, while Fendi offered one version in glittering sequins. Elsewhere, Elena Velez sent out stripped-back, almost Victorian-era corsets.
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Six large-scale objects on show
- Concrete wall and windows from the now demolished Robin Hood Gardens housing estate in Poplar
- The 17th Century Agra Colonnade, from the bathhouse of the fort of Agra in India
- A stagecloth for The Ballet Russes that is 10m high – the largest Picasso in the world
- Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1930s Kaufmann Office
- A full-scale Frankfurt Kitchen designed by Margarete Schütte-Lihotzky, which transformed kitchen design in the 20th century
- Torrijos Palace dome
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