New York Fashion Week day two: Prabal Gurung, Thakoon and Dion Lee among highlights

The mood during day two at New York Fashion Week on Saturday was somewhat dampened by the death of Queen Elizabeth II . However, though London Fashion Week, which starts on Friday, is expected to be affected to a greater degree, the schedule at the New York contingent was largely uninterrupted. Big names mixed with newcomers to offer fresh ideas for spring/summer 2023. Here are some of the highlights. Newcomer Anonlychild is headed by Public School's Maxwell Osborne, marking his return to New York. With its second season, the collection is shaped by Osborne's own American-Jamaican upbringing, as seen in the vivid jewel tones of mustard, purple and dark forest green. Best of all, it also offered an easy, almost relaxed take on luxe, with glossy satin blouses tucked loosely into trousers, and lace bodysuits worn under suiting separates. Laid back, well-cut and with that vivid palette, it is a great start. Nepalese-American designer Prabal Gurung made his name with skillful cutting that reflects social issues and he has once again delivered a starkly beautiful collection, one that nods to the recent overturning of Roe v Wade in the US. Gurung offers sharp silhouettes that follow every curve of the female form, contrasted against loose, diaphanous chiffon that is left to slide off shoulders and expose skin. Taken separately, there are some lovely pieces, such as the super high-waisted, wide-cut trousers worn with a crisp bolero jacket, yet as a whole becomes a critique of the power of the male gaze. With a presentation rather than a runway show, Thakoon delivered a concise but thoughtful collection. Using masculine codes, such as striped shirting, throughout, this was given a new twist via smocking and the summery holes of broderie anglaise. The result? A light, loose fitting array of shirt dresses worn semi-open over pyjama trousers, off-the-shoulder tops teamed with wide shorts, and shift dresses that feel relaxed and summery. For its 25th anniversary, Tibi embraced pastel, ice cream tones for pieces that are wonderfully laid-back. Offered as simple solutions to the matter of how to always look on point, this materialised as a loose-fit, matching pistachio boxy top and culottes, a plum-toned jersey top worn long over an even longer skirt, and slip tops worn tucked into ankle length skirts in coloured denim. Another new name, Australian designer Dion Lee fused club and sportswear in a show that depicts what the cool kids wear for day-to-night dressing. Brazen and chic, it combines slick tailoring with something softer and more feminine, such as a draped minidress underneath an oversized leather jacket, and loose-on-the-hips cargo pants worn with tiny, neon green cropped tops. A Swiss cheese plant theme seemed to run through everything. Sometimes it was subtle, such as fitted trousers and cropped jacket with holes neatly carved into the waist, and other times it was also too overt, like in a green leaf dress. It also manifested as full-length, cut leather boots worn folded double.

New York Fashion Week day two: Prabal Gurung, Thakoon and Dion Lee among highlights

While the atmosphere was muted following the death of Queen Elizabeth II, designers still had plenty to offer