“Everyone has overdosed on stuff,” says Wes Gordon. “You don’t want more stuff; you want good things, things you love, things that are emotional. I try to make sure that everything we do is extra vivacious and exuberant — everything needs to be fabulous.”
As Carolina Herrera’s creative director since 2018, Gordon is used to creating lavish, exuberant collections, and his take on bold patterning and bright colours is widely credited for reinvigorating the house for a new audience.
For his resort 2023 collection, which arrives in stores in November, he has conjured up chic clothing that leans into couture techniques — with a twist. “Something I have really been working on since I have been at Carolina Herrera is taking the very iconic codes of Herrera evening and cocktail — the glamour and the volume — and translating them into a compelling daywear collection that feels very much at one with the house and is just as exciting.”
Scroll through the gallery below to see highlights from Carolina Herrera's resort 2023 collection
This unfurls in oversized floral prints, eye-popping colours, animalia, drapery and skilful tailoring, now rendered largely in cotton. The collection’s opening look, a glamorous off-the-shoulder dress with dramatic sleeves and a full skirt, is, for example, crafted from cherry-print cotton faille.
Meanwhile, classic blue pinstripe cotton shirting, with all its masculine overtones, is reworked into a ruched, fitted, 1950s-style sweetheart dress, with a halterneck and flared skirt. “I like that this is a humble fabric, classic men’s shirting, but done in a beautiful, feminine way.”
While the glamour is vintage Herrera, the joyful patterning is very much Gordon’s own and is, in part, his response to the restrictions of the pandemic and a collective relief that the darkest days seem to be over.
“For this season, there was such a celebratory feel. Birthday parties have become three-day affairs and weddings that were postponed for two years are now happening with double the energy. There is so much pent-up joy, so the resort collection is really about a Riviera getaway, and all the things that entails. The glamour, sensuality, the journey, the sunshine.”
Aged 35, Gordon’s rise has been rapid. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2009, and following brief stints at Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta, Gordon ran his eponymous label in New York for eight years, before being hand-picked to head Herrera.
Describing it as a “pinch myself moment”, he describes how, when Carolina Herrera, the designer, decided to step down from her eponymous label at the age of 79, he was approached by brand president Emily Rubinfeld as a potential successor. While familiar with the house, he didn’t know its founder, who he respectfully refers to as Mrs Herrera.
“I had met her once or twice, like a million people, at a party where you say hi and are kind of star-struck, but nothing beyond that,” he recalls. With a clear overlap between their aesthetics, Gordon was eventually summoned to meet the designer in her office. “I found out on Sunday night, actually, a text asking if I could meet her first thing on Monday morning. It would have been nice to buy a new outfit for it and maybe get a haircut,” he quips.
“She is extraordinary. There are very few people whose presence in real life is as big as how you imagine it to be, but she is one of those.”
Despite being “very nervous”, Gordon says the pair instantly hit it off. “We spent about three minutes talking about work, and the remainder of the hour talking about life, favourite restaurants in New York, books we were reading, our dogs, and I think that told her more about me than any portfolio.
“She is so romantic in her belief that fashion is so much more than a dress. The quest for beauty and the ability to create beauty is such a noble thing. It’s those little details that have always been so important to her, and it’s a belief and a love that I share as well, and that was our common ground.”
Unusually for a handover, Gordon worked alongside Herrera for months, as she introduced him to every aspect of the house she built. “I think what made it such a smooth transition was Mrs Herrera herself and that opportunity to spend that year with her, introducing me to the pattern-makers, and being in fittings together.”
Since it was founded in 1981, the label has always taken its cues from couture and has its own in-house atelier, one of the few American brands still able to make such a claim. It is this access and expertise that has shaped the resort 2023 collection. “I am very lucky to work with our factory and, more importantly, our atelier,” says Gordon. “We have a full atelier, which very few American brands continue to do, and that’s why you see pieces like this.
“They’ve been made by pattern cutters and seamstresses who have spent decades draping precious silks and embroideries and are now taking that expertise and applying it to cotton, denim and gabardine, and creating something really magical for a woman in 2022.”
An understated floor-length shirt dress, for example, is elegantly darted into the waist and has bishop sleeves, while a bustier top has a matching cape that can be worn either as a dramatic hood or pushed back off the shoulders as a stole. Elsewhere, a cherry-print fitted dress is cut to spill off one shoulder.
Gordon utilises the atelier to create evening looks, such as a pink floor-length gown entirely covered in embroidered flowers that he wanted to look “as if you are looking down onto the top of a bouquet of pink carnations”. There is a sheath dress covered in sequin payettes, oversewn with chunky crystals, and a strapless jumpsuit covered in metres of gathered taffeta that releases into a train at the back.
Elsewhere, there is a dramatic cropped puffed dress with a back that Gordon calls a “brush stroke of perfect red faille”, while a 1980s drop-waist cocktail dress in pink and red not only captures his favourite colour combination, but also the spirit of the Herrera woman. “She is unforgettable. I always say the Herrera woman is the one on the sidewalk in hot pink, red or yellow, when everyone else is wearing beige.”
One key element of Gordon’s work is that, while steeped in glamour, it is never fussy and, as such, feels effortless. Case in point, a floor-length gold-knit dress that is chic enough for the evening, yet soft enough to be rolled up into a carry-on bag. “It’s that pragmatism, that zip-and-go approach, that almost sportswear sensibility of great American fashion that is so fabulous,” Gordon says.
He has created other resort pieces that are transformable, such as a mini skirt with a removable tulle train, and a delicate chiffon gown in a poppy print, with a detachable cape, that Gordon dubs a “perfect Dubai dress”.
Of course, one of the label’s enduring silhouettes will always be Herrera’s own signature – a crisp shirt worn with a full, ball skirt. Instead of trying to alter it, Gordon embraces it, offering new iterations each season. For resort, it arrives twice: as a midi-length leopard-print skirt, worn with an oversized pinstripe shirt; and as a floor-length skirt with a jersey top in a matching blue poppy print, albeit in a different scale. This is a ritual he has been practising since he first joined the house.
“When Mrs Herrera had the show that marked the transition from her to me, I surprised her at the end with a parade of all the models wearing ball skirts and white cotton shirts, each a different colour, an homage to her most signature look. Since then, I always make sure to have a new update,” he says.
Even though Herrera is no longer part of the company, the pair remain in regular contact. One topic, however, remains off limits. “We don’t talk about the collection. The first time she will see the collection is at the show. So, that’s a very scary thing, but also it has given me the space to find my own voice at Herrera. Every day I realise how much courage and trust that took on her part.”
Describing it as an “evolution rather than a revolution”, the fact that Gordon’s vision is so aligned with the founder’s is a boon to his tenure. “I feel very lucky to be at a house where my aesthetics, gut instincts, taste and preferences are harmonious with the brand’s DNA,” he says.
Of course, when it comes to knowing his client, Gordon has a little help. “I am actually sitting in a room with the Warhol [painting] of Mrs Herrera, and there she is with the bold jewellery, the technicolour lips, the eye liner. And that’s our woman. That’s who we are as a house, just unapologetic fabulousness and glamour. It’s about being the most empowered and beautiful version of yourself – and owning it.”
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Vidaamuyarchi
Director: Magizh Thirumeni
Stars: Ajith Kumar, Arjun Sarja, Trisha Krishnan, Regina Cassandra
Rating: 4/5
Dunki
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The Voice of Hind Rajab
Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
The specs: 2017 Maserati Quattroporte
Price, base / as tested Dh389,000 / Dh559,000
Engine 3.0L twin-turbo V8
Transmission Eight-speed automatic
Power 530hp @ 6,800rpm
Torque 650Nm @ 2,000 rpm
Fuel economy, combined 10.7L / 100km
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Aayan%E2%80%99s%20records
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The BIO
Favourite piece of music: Verdi’s Requiem. It’s awe-inspiring.
Biggest inspiration: My father, as I grew up in a house where music was constantly played on a wind-up gramophone. I had amazing music teachers in primary and secondary school who inspired me to take my music further. They encouraged me to take up music as a profession and I follow in their footsteps, encouraging others to do the same.
Favourite book: Ian McEwan’s Atonement – the ending alone knocked me for six.
Favourite holiday destination: Italy - music and opera is so much part of the life there. I love it.
The five pillars of Islam
MATCH INFO
Rugby World Cup (all times UAE)
Third-place play-off: New Zealand v Wales, Friday, 1pm
The specs
Engine: 3.6 V6
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Power: 295bhp
Torque: 353Nm
Price: Dh155,000
On sale: now
BOSH!'s pantry essentials
Nutritional yeast
This is Firth's pick and an ingredient he says, "gives you an instant cheesy flavour". He advises making your own cream cheese with it or simply using it to whip up a mac and cheese or wholesome lasagne. It's available in organic and specialist grocery stores across the UAE.
Seeds
"We've got a big jar of mixed seeds in our kitchen," Theasby explains. "That's what you use to make a bolognese or pie or salad: just grab a handful of seeds and sprinkle them over the top. It's a really good way to make sure you're getting your omegas."
Umami flavours
"I could say soya sauce, but I'll say all umami-makers and have them in the same batch," says Firth. He suggests having items such as Marmite, balsamic vinegar and other general, dark, umami-tasting products in your cupboard "to make your bolognese a little bit more 'umptious'".
Onions and garlic
"If you've got them, you can cook basically anything from that base," says Theasby. "These ingredients are so prevalent in every world cuisine and if you've got them in your cupboard, then you know you've got the foundation of a really nice meal."
Your grain of choice
Whether rice, quinoa, pasta or buckwheat, Firth advises always having a stock of your favourite grains in the cupboard. "That you, you have an instant meal and all you have to do is just chuck a bit of veg in."
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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The five pillars of Islam
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
- Riders must be 14-years-old or over
- Wear a protective helmet
- Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
- Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
- Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
- Do not drive outside designated lanes
More coverage from the Future Forum
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Napoleon
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The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
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KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
Dubai Bling season three
Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed
Rating: 1/5
Day 3, Dubai Test: At a glance
Moment of the day Lahiru Gamage, the Sri Lanka pace bowler, has had to play a lot of cricket to earn a shot at the top level. The 29-year-old debutant first played a first-class game 11 years ago. His first Test wicket was one to savour, bowling Pakistan opener Shan Masood through the gate. It set the rot in motion for Pakistan’s batting.
Stat of the day – 73 Haris Sohail took 73 balls to hit a boundary. Which is a peculiar quirk, given the aggressive intent he showed from the off. Pakistan’s batsmen were implored to attack Rangana Herath after their implosion against his left-arm spin in Abu Dhabi. Haris did his best to oblige, smacking the second ball he faced for a huge straight six.
The verdict One year ago, when Pakistan played their first day-night Test at this ground, they held a 222-run lead over West Indies on first innings. The away side still pushed their hosts relatively close on the final night. With the opposite almost exactly the case this time around, Pakistan still have to hope they can salvage a win from somewhere.
more from Janine di Giovanni
Evacuations to France hit by controversy
- Over 500 Gazans have been evacuated to France since November 2023
- Evacuations were paused after a student already in France posted anti-Semitic content and was subsequently expelled to Qatar
- The Foreign Ministry launched a review to determine how authorities failed to detect the posts before her entry
- Artists and researchers fall under a programme called Pause that began in 2017
- It has benefited more than 700 people from 44 countries, including Syria, Turkey, Iran, and Sudan
- Since the start of the Gaza war, it has also included 45 Gazan beneficiaries
- Unlike students, they are allowed to bring their families to France
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
The biog
Mission to Seafarers is one of the largest port-based welfare operators in the world.
It provided services to around 200 ports across 50 countries.
They also provide port chaplains to help them deliver professional welfare services.
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
Where to donate in the UAE
The Emirates Charity Portal
You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.
The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments
The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.
Al Noor Special Needs Centre
You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.
Beit Al Khair Society
Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.
Dar Al Ber Society
Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.
Dubai Cares
Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.
Emirates Airline Foundation
Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.
Emirates Red Crescent
On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.
Gulf for Good
Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.
Noor Dubai Foundation
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).
The five pillars of Islam
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
