Dior unveiled its Cruise 2023 collection with a visual spectacle inspired by flamenco in Seville, Spain, on Thursday night.
Influenced by famous Spanish flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, the entire show unfolded as a homage to her, the dance form and the culture of the city in which it was staged.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, wrote on Instagram Amaya could "combine strength and fragility" through the gesture of dance.
"She is capable of depicting the soul of Spain and interpreting a conscious feminine idea that is feminism,” she wrote.
Staged in the Plaza de Espana, a large public space fronted by a magnificent curved building in the heart of the Andulcian city, Grazia Chiuri delivered a 110-look collection themed around the codes of southern Spain and its rich, varied and, at times, dark history.
Flanked by two flamenco dancers and a cajon box drum, the first models arrived in simple tops and trousers in black and white, paired with ponchos, waistcoats and jackets featuring delicate embroidery.
Shirts gave way to lacework, plain skirts became full and covered in intricate patterning as masculine tailoring softened into a more feminine silhouette.
Looks featured nods to equestrianism, with models clutching riding crops and wearing flat-brimmed gaucho hats, and what started as an all-black affair slowly gave way to embroidery, with palettes becoming richer and more golden, until the flamboyant traje de luces-inspired suits made an appearance on the runway.
The monochrome gave way to red, first as military-style jackets and slashed sleeve capes, before shifting to patterned skirting, ruched off-the-shoulder dresses and a beautiful laser-cut leather dress in deep oxblood. In another nod to horse riding, dark denim arrived as cowboy-esque jackets, chaps covered with the Dior monogram, and riding coats with wide Driza-Bone collars.
As colours shifted through black and white, cream to gold and finally into rich taffeta gowns of peony, purple and red, Grazia Chiuri acknowledged one of the darkest periods of Seville history.
One beautiful, flame-licked gown arrived with the word "fuego," or fire, on its waistband, a stark reminder of the terrible auto-da-fes that once burned within the city walls.
This rich and complicated history is the ideal incubator for Grazia Chiuri, who has sifted through centuries to pull off something extraordinary. In referencing Amaya, Grazia Chiuri mixed high fashion with flamenco, a dance once seen as deviant within Spain for it links to the Gypsy community.
Both an academic and designer, Grazia Chiuri once again drew parallels between women and artforms who have been sidelined and repressed, and with every new collection, she continues to redraw the lines of history.
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
The five pillars of Islam
THE LIGHT
Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
The biog
Age: 32
Qualifications: Diploma in engineering from TSI Technical Institute, bachelor’s degree in accounting from Dubai’s Al Ghurair University, master’s degree in human resources from Abu Dhabi University, currently third years PHD in strategy of human resources.
Favourite mountain range: The Himalayas
Favourite experience: Two months trekking in Alaska
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
More coverage from the Future Forum
The Details
Kabir Singh
Produced by: Cinestaan Studios, T-Series
Directed by: Sandeep Reddy Vanga
Starring: Shahid Kapoor, Kiara Advani, Suresh Oberoi, Soham Majumdar, Arjun Pahwa
Rating: 2.5/5
RACE CARD
6.30pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group 1 (PA) Dh119,373 (Dirt) 1,600m
7.05pm Handicap (TB) Dh102,500 (D) 1,200m
7.40pm Handicap (TB) Dh105,000 (Turf) 1,800m
8.15pm UAE 1000 Guineas Trial (TB) Dh183,650 (D) 1,400m
9.50pm Handicap (TB) Dh105,000 (D) 1,600m
9.25pm Handicap (TB) Dh95,000 (T) 1,000m
more from Janine di Giovanni
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
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THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)
Power: 141bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh64,500
On sale: Now
'How To Build A Boat'
Jonathan Gornall, Simon & Schuster
WOMAN AND CHILD
Director: Saeed Roustaee
Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi
Rating: 4/5
if you go
The flights
Etihad, Emirates and Singapore Airlines fly direct from the UAE to Singapore from Dh2,265 return including taxes. The flight takes about 7 hours.
The hotel
Rooms at the M Social Singapore cost from SG $179 (Dh488) per night including taxes.
The tour
Makan Makan Walking group tours costs from SG $90 (Dh245) per person for about three hours. Tailor-made tours can be arranged. For details go to www.woknstroll.com.sg
More from UAE Human Development Report:
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Results
6.30pm: Dubai Millennium Stakes Group Three US$200,000 (Turf) 2,000m; Winner: Ghaiyyath, William Buick (jockey), Charlie Appleby (trainer).
7.05pm: Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Cliffs Of Capri, Tadhg O’Shea, Jamie Osborne.
7.40pm: UAE Oaks Group Three $250,000 (Dirt) 1,900m; Winner: Down On Da Bayou, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer.
8.15pm: Zabeel Mile Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Zakouski, James Doyle, Charlie Appleby.
8.50pm: Meydan Sprint Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,000m; Winner: Waady, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson.
FFP EXPLAINED
What is Financial Fair Play?
Introduced in 2011 by Uefa, European football’s governing body, it demands that clubs live within their means. Chiefly, spend within their income and not make substantial losses.
What the rules dictate?
The second phase of its implementation limits losses to €30 million (Dh136m) over three seasons. Extra expenditure is permitted for investment in sustainable areas (youth academies, stadium development, etc). Money provided by owners is not viewed as income. Revenue from “related parties” to those owners is assessed by Uefa's “financial control body” to be sure it is a fair value, or in line with market prices.
What are the penalties?
There are a number of punishments, including fines, a loss of prize money or having to reduce squad size for European competition – as happened to PSG in 2014. There is even the threat of a competition ban, which could in theory lead to PSG’s suspension from the Uefa Champions League.
