Art meets fashion in new Alexander McQueen exhibition in London


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Sarah Burton, the creative director of Alexander McQueen, is a quiet sort of iconoclast. Where some shout their nonconformism, Burton prefers to whisper; case in point, Process, a new exhibition that has recently opened in London.

Held inside the vaulted space of the brand's flagship on Old Bond Street, Process is a visual discussion about the collaborative nature of creativity, how it stems from myriad viewpoints and how female artists are shaping a unique narrative. For this project, which will be on display until June 21, Burton invited 12 international female artists to reinterpret a look from her autumn/winter 2022 pre-collection. As well as presenting a final artwork, each artist was requested to document her creative journey, which in turn gave the project its title.

“I wanted to engage in a new creative dialogue with the collection this season and see how the artists interpreted the work we created in the studio,” explains Burton. “It’s been very interesting to see how creativity has sprung from so many different perspectives, and the outcomes have been varied and beautiful.”

Given a completely free hand, each artist was left to select the look or looks that spoke to them. Norwegian artist Ann Cathrin November Hoibo, for example, selected all the pink and red looks from the collection because, as she explains: “I wanted to make a warm and very feminine environment.”

Tapestry by Ann Cathrin November Hoibo, for the Alexander McQueen exhibition, Process. Photo: Alexander McQueen
Tapestry by Ann Cathrin November Hoibo, for the Alexander McQueen exhibition, Process. Photo: Alexander McQueen

With the looks hanging physically in her studio, Hoibo created a giant tapestry inspired by the folds and shadows of the clothes, and using the same materials — wool, cotton, poly faille and satin. The finished work hangs from a bar of hard Perspex, highlighting the softness of the weaving.

“With so much masculine pressure going on in the world, it’s important to keep the heart soft. The Alexander McQueen looks inspire me in that way, the gentle and feminine inside with a harder cover for protection.”

For Chilean sculptor Marcela Correa, meanwhile, inspiration came from a canary yellow off-the-shoulder, full-skirted corset-dress, with what Burton calls an “exploded neckline”. Correa created two amorphous figurines in the same bold colour, built from a papier mache of resin, paper, magazine cuttings and fibreglass, applied in slow and deliberate layers. To the strange curved forms, Correa has added faces, collaged from fragments, which speak of “absent faces and broken memories”.

Work by Chilean sculptor Marcela Correa for the Process exhibition. Photo: Alexander McQueen
Work by Chilean sculptor Marcela Correa for the Process exhibition. Photo: Alexander McQueen

Interestingly, American artist Beverly Semmes chose the same dress, yet her treatment could not be more different. In perhaps the most visually arresting piece in the exhibition, Semmes has created an oversized velvet robe that flows down on to the floor.

As with much of her work, this is about the representation of women in the media, and a marigold yellow dress spills from the velvet robe, which in turn becomes a pool of pink organza on the floor. On these waves of fabric sit a pair of shoes, a bag — both made from duct tape and paint — and even a dog.

As Semmes explains, the pup was not part of the original plan. “As I worked, my dog spent time most of the day napping in and around the artwork. This led me to unearth a life-size replica of a Labrador retriever purchased decades ago. With the gold chain from the clutch purse placed around his neck, he took to the pool like a natural.”

American photographer Jackie Nickerson, meanwhile, choose an off-the-shoulder pencil dress in deep orange poly faille, which she then documented herself wearing.

In the resulting images, she and the dress are almost completely obscured behind a shroud of seaweed and recycled material.

With her work focused around nature and its pollution, Nickerson explains her inspiration was twofold: Alexander McQueen's love of nature and Burton’s description of her designs being “soft armour for women”.

“The materials I used are a reference to the sea and the challenges we face with marine pollution.”

Jackie Nickerson's artwork. Photo: Alexander McQueen.
Jackie Nickerson's artwork. Photo: Alexander McQueen.

American artist and model Guinevere Van Seenus based her work on a strapless corset dress in crushed silver poly faille. With the gown made from metallic cloth, Van Seenus was keen to capture the play of light across its surface.

The result is a series of small Polaroid photographs of Van Seenus wearing the dress and a garland of fairy lights. “I love the play of how light opens up on film, dots of light, reflections, blasts of light that reveal everything. I work alone and try to make friends with the accidents that happen on film and Polaroid.” Manipulating the photographs as they developed, Van Seenus added marks and dashes, as well as beading, carefully hand-stitched through the image.

American artist Guinevere Van Seenus based her work on a strapless corset dress in crushed silver poly faille. Photo: Alexander McQueen
American artist Guinevere Van Seenus based her work on a strapless corset dress in crushed silver poly faille. Photo: Alexander McQueen

British artist Judas Companion, in contrast, based her several works on two oversized suits in electric blue. Realised as a series of wearable “masks”, each one is made using electric blue mohair knitted into a balaclava, on to which the artist has added facial elements, such as eyes and a mouth, using concrete, faux fur, plastic, ceramic and paint.

While the masks act to obscure the face beneath, the grotesque features instead create a new, twisted persona. Companion describes her work as “revolving around metamorphosis in the widest sense. I paint, I make masks, I photograph and film myself visualising processes of transformation. I turn my inner world outside and make emotional turmoil visible.”

Chinese painter and sculptor Bingyi, meanwhile, based her work on a corset dress with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing.

A paper dress by Bingyi. Photo: Alexander McQueen
A paper dress by Bingyi. Photo: Alexander McQueen

From these she created two new outfits: a wedding dress and a groom's suit from ink drawings, linen, cotton and paper. Called The Wedding Dress that Takes Off Itself, the artwork is about duality and ritual — signified by the wedding gown —and how we travel though life.

The papery white gown has been created to resemble “a waterfall that flows off a woman’s body”, she explains, while the man’s suit is printed in Chinese messages of love.

“We wanted the artists to have total freedom to respond to the looks, creating bold and thought-provoking conversations with their works,” Burton says. “I hope viewers will be as inspired as we have all been by witnessing these creative processes.”

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Who has been sanctioned?

Daniella Weiss and Nachala
Described as 'the grandmother of the settler movement', she has encouraged the expansion of settlements for decades. The 79 year old leads radical settler movement Nachala, whose aim is for Israel to annex Gaza and the occupied West Bank, where it helps settlers built outposts.

Harel Libi & Libi Construction and Infrastructure
Libi has been involved in threatening and perpetuating acts of aggression and violence against Palestinians. His firm has provided logistical and financial support for the establishment of illegal outposts.

Zohar Sabah
Runs a settler outpost named Zohar’s Farm and has previously faced charges of violence against Palestinians. He was indicted by Israel’s State Attorney’s Office in September for allegedly participating in a violent attack against Palestinians and activists in the West Bank village of Muarrajat.

Coco’s Farm and Neria’s Farm
These are illegal outposts in the West Bank, which are at the vanguard of the settler movement. According to the UK, they are associated with people who have been involved in enabling, inciting, promoting or providing support for activities that amount to “serious abuse”.

The specs
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Transmission: eight-speed auto

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UK-EU trade at a glance

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Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries

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Cutting red tape on import and export of food

The specs

AT4 Ultimate, as tested

Engine: 6.2-litre V8

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Transmission: 10-speed automatic

Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)

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Engine: 2-litre 4-cylinder and 3.6-litre 6-cylinder

Power: 220 and 280 horsepower

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Transmission: eight-speed automatic

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Disposing of non-recycleable masks
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The specs

Engine: Two permanent-magnet synchronous AC motors

Transmission: two-speed

Power: 671hp

Torque: 849Nm

Range: 456km

Price: from Dh437,900 

On sale: now

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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MATCH INFO

Cricket World Cup League Two
Oman, UAE, Namibia
Al Amerat, Muscat
 
Results
Oman beat UAE by five wickets
UAE beat Namibia by eight runs
Namibia beat Oman by 52 runs
UAE beat Namibia by eight wickets
UAE v Oman - abandoned
Oman v Namibia - abandoned

The biog

Favourite hobby: taking his rescue dog, Sally, for long walks.

Favourite book: anything by Stephen King, although he said the films rarely match the quality of the books

Favourite film: The Shawshank Redemption stands out as his favourite movie, a classic King novella

Favourite music: “I have a wide and varied music taste, so it would be unfair to pick a single song from blues to rock as a favourite"

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
 
Started: 2020
 
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
 
Based: Dubai, UAE
 
Sector: Entertainment 
 
Number of staff: 210 
 
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
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TERMINAL HIGH ALTITUDE AREA DEFENCE (THAAD)

What is THAAD?

It is considered to be the US's most superior missile defence system.

Production:

It was created in 2008.

Speed:

THAAD missiles can travel at over Mach 8, so fast that it is hypersonic.

Abilities:

THAAD is designed to take out  ballistic missiles as they are on their downward trajectory towards their target, otherwise known as the "terminal phase".

Purpose:

To protect high-value strategic sites, such as airfields or population centres.

Range:

THAAD can target projectiles inside and outside the Earth's atmosphere, at an altitude of 150 kilometres above the Earth's surface.

Creators:

Lockheed Martin was originally granted the contract to develop the system in 1992. Defence company Raytheon sub-contracts to develop other major parts of the system, such as ground-based radar.

UAE and THAAD:

In 2011, the UAE became the first country outside of the US to buy two THAAD missile defence systems. It then stationed them in 2016, becoming the first Gulf country to do so.

Abu Dhabi GP Saturday schedule

12.30pm GP3 race (18 laps)

2pm Formula One final practice 

5pm Formula One qualifying

6.40pm Formula 2 race (31 laps)

How to get there

Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Hanoi, Vietnam, with fares starting from around Dh2,725 return, while Etihad (www.etihad.com) fares cost about Dh2,213 return with a stop. Chuong is 25 kilometres south of Hanoi.
 

Key facilities
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  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
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SPECS
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Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

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Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

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Our legal advisor

Ahmad El Sayed is Senior Associate at Charles Russell Speechlys, a law firm headquartered in London with offices in the UK, Europe, the Middle East and Hong Kong.

Experience: Commercial litigator who has assisted clients with overseas judgments before UAE courts. His specialties are cases related to banking, real estate, shareholder disputes, company liquidations and criminal matters as well as employment related litigation. 

Education: Sagesse University, Beirut, Lebanon, in 2005.

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What is a Ponzi scheme?

A fraudulent investment operation where the scammer provides fake reports and generates returns for old investors through money paid by new investors, rather than through ligitimate business activities.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Abu Dhabi GP schedule

Friday: First practice - 1pm; Second practice - 5pm

Saturday: Final practice - 2pm; Qualifying - 5pm

Sunday: Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (55 laps) - 5.10pm

The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder turbo

Transmission: CVT

Power: 170bhp

Torque: 220Nm

Price: Dh98,900

TO A LAND UNKNOWN

Director: Mahdi Fleifel

Starring: Mahmoud Bakri, Aram Sabbah, Mohammad Alsurafa

Rating: 4.5/5

Monster

Directed by: Anthony Mandler

Starring: Kelvin Harrison Jr., John David Washington 

3/5

 

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RESULT

Aston Villa 1
Samatta (41')
Manchester City 2
Aguero (20')
Rodri (30')

PRISCILLA
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Farasan Boat: 128km Away from Anchorage

Director: Mowaffaq Alobaid 

Stars: Abdulaziz Almadhi, Mohammed Al Akkasi, Ali Al Suhaibani

Rating: 4/5

Frida%20
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Updated: June 09, 2022, 4:03 AM`