The spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior was a masterclass in elegant restraint. EPA
The spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior was a masterclass in elegant restraint. EPA
The spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior was a masterclass in elegant restraint. EPA
The spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior was a masterclass in elegant restraint. EPA

Day one highlights at Paris Haute Couture Week, from Dior to Schiaparelli


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Paris Haute Couture Week is back, and while it may have been interrupted once again by the pandemic – for example, Giorgio Armani cancelling his in-person show – the array of handmade confections for spring/summer 2022, so far, are well worth the wait.

Giambattista Valli

A red tulle gown by Giambattista Valli spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Giambattista Valli
A red tulle gown by Giambattista Valli spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Giambattista Valli

Never one to shy away from an excuse to show copious amounts of tulle, Giambattista Valli took a rather radical step of combining his haute couture collection with his pre-autumn 2022 looks.

Arriving as only 18 looks, shown via a Covid-friendly film, the two ranges complemented one another perfectly. The pre-autumn outfits were notable for their comparative simplicity, but were still romantically complex (this is Valli after all) and included a wrapped mini-dress in the palest pink, finished with a train and great bow on the neckline, or culottes and a puff-sleeved cropped top in black. Cleverly folded at the neckline, it was beautifully innovative.

In between were Valli’s speciality: great, glorious gowns that leave the viewer overwhelmed by the sheer happily-ever-after-ness that Valli has made his own. Think a funnel necked 1960s-inspired look in rich golden brocade and covered in a mist of fluttering feathers, or a dramatic full-skirted tiered dress in gleaming black silk, with more feathers and a bow, and looking every inch glamorous.

Another look offered a new take on the slashed dress, taking the slit higher than ever and teaming it with silver flared trousers. There was a tiered, ruffled explosion in red, and a bride-worthy strapless gown with a skirt of ruffled silk. The nude dress in particular was a delight, with miles of tulle caught at the waist and worn with thigh-high boots.

Christian Dior

Dior spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Dior
Dior spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Dior

If Valli was about unabashed, attention-grabbing romance, then the latest offering from Dior was the exact opposite, instead delivering a collection of discreet wealth.

For this outing, Maria Grazia Chiuri evoked the Indian heritage of embroidery that stretches back centuries and rivals the expertise of any couture house, by lining the show space at the Musee Rodin with huge embroideries by artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh. Covered in bold, graphic imagery, each was handmade by the school of Chanakya, which trains the next generation of embroiderers and handworkers. To give an idea of the scale of the work involved, 380 artisans worked for 280,000 hours embroidering panels that together cover 340 square metres.

Against such a vivid backdrop, Chiuri delivered a collection that was pared back and so exquisitely underplayed, it was a revelation. Such a reduction, of course, showed the deep sophistication of couture, and the immense skill of the Dior atelier in creating looks such as a cream, single-buttoned suit, where the jacket was cut away to reveal the high-waisted trousers underneath, or a deceptively simple floor-length skirt under a collarless sheath, so artfully cut it looked unlined. Or a round-neck dress with cap sleeves, also in cream, cut from four pieces of fabric, while bar jackets, in both cream and black, hugged the waist without any sort of constriction.

For evening, equally simple silhouettes were elevated with loose beadwork, such as a white hobble skirt covered in silver and worn with a sheer dress shirt, and a diaphanous, beaded dress in soft grey. Best of all were the fluid, backless dresses in silver lamé that echoed the sublime elegance of the silver screen. At first glance there may be little symmetry between the large, colourful wall hangings and the discreet, subtle looks on the runway, but both spoke volumes about the mastery of handwork and technique.

Schiaparelli

A hat with the circumference of a small planet, Schiaparelli spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Schiaparelli
A hat with the circumference of a small planet, Schiaparelli spring/summer 2022 haute couture. Photo: Schiaparelli

As a house steeped in surrealism, it seemed fitting that Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli, should look to the heavens for inspiration for this season, in particular the planetary bodies with which we journey around the Sun.

As the ultimate escapism, Roseberry and his team translated these planets sometimes quite literally, such as a metallic gold bodypiece, topped with Saturn's rings in brass, or a dress finished with a headpiece and cuffs embroidered with rays of sunshine. Elsewhere there were hats with the circumference of a small planet, and even silk collars stiffened and left floating around shoulders.

Gold details shone against the black clothes, as strange, twisted, jewel-covered pieces, or as handbags made to look like a woman's head. One dress even came with strips of metal bursting out of the neckline, and hanging to the floor like a huge metallic jellyfish. Strange? Yes. Surreal? Definitely. But it was also beautiful and lifted us, albeit briefly, from the woes of planet Earth.

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm

Transmission: 9-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh117,059

Tips%20for%20holiday%20homeowners
%3Cp%3EThere%20are%20several%20factors%20for%20landlords%20to%20consider%20when%20preparing%20to%20establish%20a%20holiday%20home%3A%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cul%3E%0A%3Cli%3E%3Cstrong%3ERevenue%20potential%20of%20the%20unit%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20location%2C%20view%20and%20size%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3E%3Cstrong%3EDesign%3A%20furnished%20or%20unfurnished.%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Is%20the%20design%20up%20to%20standard%2C%20while%20being%20catchy%20at%20the%20same%20time%3F%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3E%3Cstrong%3EBusiness%20model%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20will%20it%20be%20managed%20by%20a%20professional%20operator%20or%20directly%20by%20the%20owner%2C%20how%20often%20does%20the%20owner%20wants%20to%20use%20it%20for%20personal%20reasons%3F%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3Cli%3E%3Cstrong%3EQuality%20of%20the%20operator%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20guest%20reviews%2C%20customer%20experience%20management%2C%20application%20of%20technology%2C%20average%20utilisation%2C%20scope%20of%20services%20rendered%3C%2Fli%3E%0A%3C%2Ful%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cem%3ESource%3A%20Adam%20Nowak%2C%20managing%20director%20of%20Ultimate%20Stay%20Vacation%20Homes%20Rental%3C%2Fem%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
MATCH INFO

Manchester City 4 (Gundogan 8' (P), Bernardo Silva 19', Jesus 72', 75')

Fulham 0

Red cards: Tim Ream (Fulham)

Man of the Match: Gabriel Jesus (Manchester City)

if you go

The flights

Direct flights from the UAE to the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, are available with Air Arabia, (www.airarabia.com) Fly Dubai (www.flydubai.com) or Etihad (www.etihad.com) from Dh1,200 return including taxes. The trek described here started from Jomson, but there are many other start and end point variations depending on how you tailor your trek. To get to Jomson from Kathmandu you must first fly to the lake-side resort town of Pokhara with either Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com). Both charge around US$240 (Dh880) return. From Pokhara there are early morning flights to Jomson with Yeti Airlines or Simrik Airlines (www.simrikairlines.com) for around US$220 (Dh800) return. 

The trek

Restricted area permits (US$500 per person) are required for trekking in the Upper Mustang area. The challenging Meso Kanto pass between Tilcho Lake and Jomson should not be attempted by those without a lot of mountain experience and a good support team. An excellent trekking company with good knowledge of Upper Mustang, the Annaurpuna Circuit and Tilcho Lake area and who can help organise a version of the trek described here is the Nepal-UK run Snow Cat Travel (www.snowcattravel.com). Prices vary widely depending on accommodation types and the level of assistance required. 

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Lamsa

Founder: Badr Ward

Launched: 2014

Employees: 60

Based: Abu Dhabi

Sector: EdTech

Funding to date: $15 million

Sole survivors
  • Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
  • George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
  • Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo

Power: 247hp at 6,500rpm

Torque: 370Nm from 1,500-3,500rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 7.8L/100km

Price: from Dh94,900

On sale: now

WOMAN AND CHILD

Director: Saeed Roustaee

Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi

Rating: 4/5

Cinco in numbers

Dh3.7 million

The estimated cost of Victoria Swarovski’s gem-encrusted Michael Cinco wedding gown

46

The number, in kilograms, that Swarovski’s wedding gown weighed.

1,000

The hours it took to create Cinco’s vermillion petal gown, as seen in his atelier [note, is the one he’s playing with in the corner of a room]

50

How many looks Cinco has created in a new collection to celebrate Ballet Philippines’ 50th birthday

3,000

The hours needed to create the butterfly gown worn by Aishwarya Rai to the 2018 Cannes Film Festival.

1.1 million

The number of followers that Michael Cinco’s Instagram account has garnered.

Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
The biog

Favourite books: 'Ruth Bader Ginsburg: A Life' by Jane D. Mathews and ‘The Moment of Lift’ by Melinda Gates

Favourite travel destination: Greece, a blend of ancient history and captivating nature. It always has given me a sense of joy, endless possibilities, positive energy and wonderful people that make you feel at home.

Favourite pastime: travelling and experiencing different cultures across the globe.

Favourite quote: “In the future, there will be no female leaders. There will just be leaders” - Sheryl Sandberg, COO of Facebook.

Favourite Movie: Mona Lisa Smile 

Favourite Author: Kahlil Gibran

Favourite Artist: Meryl Streep

Bib%20Gourmand%20restaurants
%3Cp%3EAl%20Khayma%0D%3Cbr%3EBait%20Maryam%0D%3Cbr%3EBrasserie%20Boulud%0D%3Cbr%3EFi'lia%0D%3Cbr%3Efolly%0D%3Cbr%3EGoldfish%0D%3Cbr%3EIbn%20AlBahr%0D%3Cbr%3EIndya%20by%20Vineet%0D%3Cbr%3EKinoya%0D%3Cbr%3ENinive%0D%3Cbr%3EOrfali%20Bros%0D%3Cbr%3EReif%20Japanese%20Kushiyaki%0D%3Cbr%3EShabestan%0D%3Cbr%3ETeible%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

The candidates

Dr Ayham Ammora, scientist and business executive

Ali Azeem, business leader

Tony Booth, professor of education

Lord Browne, former BP chief executive

Dr Mohamed El-Erian, economist

Professor Wyn Evans, astrophysicist

Dr Mark Mann, scientist

Gina MIller, anti-Brexit campaigner

Lord Smith, former Cabinet minister

Sandi Toksvig, broadcaster

 

Recent winners

2002 Giselle Khoury (Colombia)

2004 Nathalie Nasralla (France)

2005 Catherine Abboud (Oceania)

2007 Grace Bijjani  (Mexico)

2008 Carina El-Keddissi (Brazil)

2009 Sara Mansour (Brazil)

2010 Daniella Rahme (Australia)

2011 Maria Farah (Canada)

2012 Cynthia Moukarzel (Kuwait)

2013 Layla Yarak (Australia)              

2014 Lia Saad  (UAE)

2015 Cynthia Farah (Australia)

2016 Yosmely Massaad (Venezuela)

2017 Dima Safi (Ivory Coast)

2018 Rachel Younan (Australia)

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Part three: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

CHATGPT%20ENTERPRISE%20FEATURES
%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Enterprise-grade%20security%20and%20privacy%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Unlimited%20higher-speed%20GPT-4%20access%20with%20no%20caps%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Longer%20context%20windows%20for%20processing%20longer%20inputs%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Advanced%20data%20analysis%20capabilities%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Customisation%20options%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Shareable%20chat%20templates%20that%20companies%20can%20use%20to%20collaborate%20and%20build%20common%20workflows%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Analytics%20dashboard%20for%20usage%20insights%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Free%20credits%20to%20use%20OpenAI%20APIs%20to%20extend%20OpenAI%20into%20a%20fully-custom%20solution%20for%20enterprises%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
Teri%20Baaton%20Mein%20Aisa%20Uljha%20Jiya
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Updated: October 13, 2022, 10:14 AM`