Why the Kenzo autumn/winter 2022 show at Paris Fashion Week was a big deal


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Not every designer can boast a front row of Ye (formerly Kanye West), Pharrell Williams and Tyler, the Creator for their first show at a house, but then not everyone is Nigo and not every show is for Kenzo.

The talent behind cult labels A Bathing Ape, Billionaire Boys Club – launched with Williams in 2003 – and Human Made, Nigo is already a major player in the fashion world, with a devoted following and an address book to kill for (it was Nigo who introduced Louis Vuitton to Virgil Abloh).

Tyler, the Creator and Pharrell Williams attend the Kenzo autumn/winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Getty
Tyler, the Creator and Pharrell Williams attend the Kenzo autumn/winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Getty

Perhaps unsurprisingly then, the crowds turned up to Paris Fashion Week on Sunday to see his first collection since being named artistic director of Kenzo in September 2021. His appointment marks not only a new direction, but also a return to the brand's roots, as Nigo, like founder Kenzo Takada, is Japanese, and the first Japanese designer to helm the label since it opened shop in 1970.

Despite his Japanese roots, Kenzo, who died in 2020 after contracting Covid-19, launched his brand in Paris, where it has remained. For Nigo, however, this was the perfect occasion to blend the best of both worlds, mixing Western ideas such as varsity jackets with Japanese indigo denim and side-fastening tops.

Nigo launched a co-ed collection for autumn/winter 2022 as part of Men's Fashion Week in Paris, drawing on the charmingly patchworked feel of early Kenzo, opening with a checked blanket coat over Black Watch tartan trousers and a delicate, embroidered cross body bag. The brand's famous poppy print appeared as an outline, and printed over full denim looks for men and women, while Kenzo's own sketches arrived as patterning on coats, suits and full skirts.

Emirati brothers Mohammed and Humaid Hadban attend the Kenzo autumn/winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Getty Images
Emirati brothers Mohammed and Humaid Hadban attend the Kenzo autumn/winter 2022/2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Getty Images

Subtle nods to Japanese heritage cropped up as side-fastened, wrapped tops that were incorporated into striped ticking dungarees and dress, and as a box-cut indigo jacket worn over a pinstripe suit.

Other versions arrived as a gingham apron, worn both open and tied around the waist, and even as a heavier wool swing coat for both genders. Elsewhere, more stripes arrived as dresses, mixed ad hoc with poppy fabric and polka dots, and as boating blazers under varsity jackets and berets.

It's an upbeat, almost preppy collection, as Nigo reworked cowboy shirts and baker boy hats, as well as aviation jackets and even an intarsia jumper in sunny yellow, with a giant poppy motif. The tiger head of Kenzo circa 2010s made a guest appearance on varsity sweatshirts, while countless different tartans popped up on trousers, tights and swishy skirts, edged in a Kenzo logo.

Filled with exuberant patterns and plenty of colour, Nigo’s opening salvo for Kenzo was fun-filled and very wearable, right down to the tiger head belt buckles. Brimming with nods to street culture and a palpable sense of optimism, it was a high-energy start to a new era at the house.

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Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

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What are NFTs?

Are non-fungible tokens a currency, asset, or a licensing instrument? Arnab Das, global market strategist EMEA at Invesco, says they are mix of all of three.

You can buy, hold and use NFTs just like US dollars and Bitcoins. “They can appreciate in value and even produce cash flows.”

However, while money is fungible, NFTs are not. “One Bitcoin, dollar, euro or dirham is largely indistinguishable from the next. Nothing ties a dollar bill to a particular owner, for example. Nor does it tie you to to any goods, services or assets you bought with that currency. In contrast, NFTs confer specific ownership,” Mr Das says.

This makes NFTs closer to a piece of intellectual property such as a work of art or licence, as you can claim royalties or profit by exchanging it at a higher value later, Mr Das says. “They could provide a sustainable income stream.”

This income will depend on future demand and use, which makes NFTs difficult to value. “However, there is a credible use case for many forms of intellectual property, notably art, songs, videos,” Mr Das says.

David Haye record

Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4

The specs

Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors

Power: Combined output 920hp

Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic

Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km

On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025

Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000

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Essentials

The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct from the UAE to Los Angeles, from Dh4,975 return, including taxes. The flight time is 16 hours. Alaska Airlines, United Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Aeromexico and Southwest all fly direct from Los Angeles to San Jose del Cabo from Dh1,243 return, including taxes. The flight time is two-and-a-half hours.

The trip
Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic’s eight-day Whales Wilderness itinerary costs from US$6,190 (Dh22,736) per person, twin share, including meals, accommodation and excursions, with departures in March and April 2018.

 

Updated: January 24, 2022, 12:34 PM