Groundbreaking Sotheby's exhibition to celebrate black jewellery designers


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A groundbreaking exhibition dedicated to black jewellery designers from around the world, none of whom have sold at an auction before, will open at Sotheby’s New York on Friday.

Brilliant and Black – A Jewellery Renaissance features 21 designers, each contributing three designs, with pieces starting at $1,500 and reaching $1 million for a pink diamond ring by Maggi Simpkins.

All items from the exhibition are on sale in-person at Sotheby’s New York space from Friday, or online via the auctioneer’s website.

Curator and jewellery expert Melanie Grant described the line-up as the “pinnacle of black excellence”.

“In the aftermath of Covid-19 and as we continue to battle for justice with Black Lives Matter, economics continue to be the basis of real power and real change. I’d love to see a black designer breach the $1m ceiling at auction and maybe this can be the start of that journey,” she said. “This is a watershed for them and for us.”

Los Angeles designer Simpkins, whose $1m ring was specially designed for the exhibition, was inspired by a flower blooming.

The piece contains a 2.43 carat fancy pink, internally flawless, cushion-cut diamond centre, surrounded by three shades of pink sapphires and rubies.

Other featured designers include Castro NYC, who is from the US but is based in Istanbul, with past clients including Whoopi Goldberg and Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top.

Former model Vania Leles, who was raised in Guinea-Bissau, designs for her eponymous label Vanleles, with all her pieces inspired by African culture, history and architecture. Jariet Oloye, meanwhile, is known for her intricate metal works, a skill she learnt during her childhood in Nigeria surrounded by a community of craftspeople.

Another piece of note includes a four-finger Mount Rushmore ring by Brooklyn designer Johnny Nelson, which features the faces of Civil Rights leaders instead of US presidents.

“Spanning from the 1950 to today, these artisan’s creations – many of which have been newly created for the occasion – showcase a range of styles and materials, illuminating the diverse source of inspiration,” said Frank Everett, Sotheby’s senior vice president and sales director of jewellery.

“We are delighted this first exhibition will contribute to revealing their talents and contributions to the art of jewellery to a wider audience.”

Brilliant and Black – A Jewellery Renaissance is on view at Sotheby's New York from September 17 to 26. Customers can purchase pieces online and in-person until October 10

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Scores

Rajasthan Royals 160-8 (20 ov)

Kolkata Knight Riders 163-3 (18.5 ov)

Skewed figures

In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458. 

ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.

The hotels

Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.

The tours

A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages. 

How to report a beggar

Abu Dhabi – Call 999 or 8002626 (Aman Service)

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Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

The chef's advice

Troy Payne, head chef at Abu Dhabi’s newest healthy eatery Sanderson’s in Al Seef Resort & Spa, says singles need to change their mindset about how they approach the supermarket.

“They feel like they can’t buy one cucumber,” he says. “But I can walk into a shop – I feed two people at home – and I’ll walk into a shop and I buy one cucumber, I’ll buy one onion.”

Mr Payne asks for the sticker to be placed directly on each item, rather than face the temptation of filling one of the two-kilogram capacity plastic bags on offer.

The chef also advises singletons not get too hung up on “organic”, particularly high-priced varieties that have been flown in from far-flung locales. Local produce is often grown sustainably, and far cheaper, he says.

Dr Graham's three goals

Short term

Establish logistics and systems needed to globally deploy vaccines


Intermediate term

Build biomedical workforces in low- and middle-income nations


Long term

A prototype pathogen approach for pandemic preparedness  

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Updated: September 16, 2021, 9:53 AM`