Designer Anjilla Seddeqi fuses traditional Afghan accents with a modern twist in her collections
Designer Anjilla Seddeqi fuses traditional Afghan accents with a modern twist in her collections
Designer Anjilla Seddeqi fuses traditional Afghan accents with a modern twist in her collections
Designer Anjilla Seddeqi fuses traditional Afghan accents with a modern twist in her collections

How two Afghan fashion designers are preserving the country's heritage in their work


  • English
  • Arabic

When the Taliban took control of Afghanistan this month, it upended the lives of Afghans living in and outside of the country.

Some have escaped the country while others, watching from the outside, are left wondering what will happen to their homeland once the dust settles.

Among them are Anjilla Seddeqi and Hosna Kohestani, two fashion designers who incorporate their heritage into their work.

Seddeqi was 7 years old when her family fled Afghanistan – and the Taliban – for Australia in 1989. Although she has never returned, her thoughts remain with the country she left as a child.

“I have heard incredible stories about Afghanistan," Seddeqi tells The National. "I yearn to go back one day with my two children.”

Inspired by her own experiences as a child, Seddeqi studied international law before joining the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to work with asylum seekers. After years working as a human rights lawyer, she decided to reconnect with her Afghan heritage, turning to fashion as a platform to bring the colours and patterns of her culture to a wider audience.

"I am very passionate about refugees, given my background and experience, and it was my dream as a little girl to practise refugee law so that I could help them," Seddeqi explains.

“My designs are informed by my Afghan heritage and culture. I mainly work with rich fabrics like brocades with gold threadwork and embroidered silk fabrics, as well as vibrant colours, as this is synonymous with Afghan celebrations and attire.”

Shining a light on Afghan culture is an important part of Seddeqi's work, to counter what she feels is a narrow view of her country.

“For far too long the narrative in the West has been that Afghanistan is perpetually at war and in conflict. But Afghanistan and its people are more than that and we are not defined by the relentless violence. We are a proud, cultured and hospitable people and that is what I want to shine upon in my designs.”

Mixing traditional elements with a more western aesthetic, Seddeqi's pieces speak to women looking for clothes beyond the standard fare, while helping to cement her own commitment to her country.

“It provides me with a sense of connection to my roots. There's a lot to learn from our traditional Afghan dresses, [they are] a masterclass on mixing colours, patterns and textures."

Khoestani is also sharing her culture with the wider world. With a shop in Dubai, her colourful designs are known for their traditional cuts, dazzling tones and rich gold embroidery. Her gowns are often photographed against the rugged beauty of Hatta Dam, because, as she has previously said, it "reminds me of Afghanistan".

With the return of the Taliban, however, both women have concerns for the future, particularly for women in the country. Seddeqi remains unconvinced by assurances that there will be no violence or reprisals.

“I think Afghans have a really good grasp of what the Taliban are about after experiencing firsthand the terror they unleashed on the population when they gained power in 1996. Most Afghan women are too terrified to leave their homes. Ultimately, the women and children in Afghanistan will pay the highest price,” Seddeqi says.

This view is echoed by Kohestani. "It's definitely a hard time for all of us Afghans."

The trimmings and embroidery that feature so heavily in both women's designs come from Afghanistan, providing a vital source of income for the women who make them, and a degree of financial independence. Whether this can continue under the Taliban remains to be seen.

While the long-term effects could be detrimental to both designers' work, Kohestani's thoughts are with her countrywomen.

"It will definitely impact me as an Afghan designer," she says, "but right now I am more concerned about my country."

Seddeqi, too, fears rights have been swept away. Unable to reach her suppliers, she is worried for not only their livelihoods but also their safety.

“It has been very difficult to get in touch with them since the Taliban has gained power. I will continue to explore different contacts and avenues to get in touch with them. My hope is that I can continue to work with them and support them during these dark times."

To help raise awareness, as well as funds for the UNCHR, Seddeqi is helping to sell Arezu dolls in Australia. Translating as "wish" from Dari, the mostly widely spoken language in Afghanistan, they are made from discarded fabric by Afghan refugees in India.

"They are created with love, hope and a wish for a brighter future for the women and children of Afghanistan," Seddeqi says.

She says she feels compelled to act.

“As an Afghan woman living in the diaspora, it is my duty and calling to raise awareness about the plight of my sisters in Afghanistan. I simply cannot rest in this position of privilege knowing how much they are suffering."

F1 The Movie

Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem

Director: Joseph Kosinski

Rating: 4/5

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Our legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

ENGLAND SQUAD

Goalkeepers: Jack Butland, Jordan Pickford, Nick Pope 
Defenders: John Stones, Harry Maguire, Phil Jones, Kyle Walker, Kieran Trippier, Gary Cahill, Ashley Young, Danny Rose, Trent Alexander-Arnold 
Midfielders: Eric Dier, Jordan Henderson, Dele Alli, Jesse Lingard, Raheem Sterling, Ruben Loftus-Cheek, Fabian Delph 
Forwards: Harry Kane, Jamie Vardy, Marcus Rashford, Danny Welbeck

The specs
 
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
The specs: 2018 Mercedes-Benz E 300 Cabriolet

Price, base / as tested: Dh275,250 / Dh328,465

Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder

Power: 245hp @ 5,500rpm

Torque: 370Nm @ 1,300rpm

Transmission: Nine-speed automatic

Fuel consumption, combined: 7.0L / 100km

The National Archives, Abu Dhabi

Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.

Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en

 

 

A little about CVRL

Founded in 1985 by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, the Central Veterinary Research Laboratory (CVRL) is a government diagnostic centre that provides testing and research facilities to the UAE and neighbouring countries.

One of its main goals is to provide permanent treatment solutions for veterinary related diseases. 

The taxidermy centre was established 12 years ago and is headed by Dr Ulrich Wernery. 

'Nightmare Alley'

Director:Guillermo del Toro

Stars:Bradley Cooper, Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara

Rating: 3/5

The specs: 2018 Harley-Davidson Fat Boy

Price, base / as tested Dh97,600
Engine 1,745cc Milwaukee-Eight v-twin engine
Transmission Six-speed gearbox
Power 78hp @ 5,250rpm
Torque 145Nm @ 3,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined 5.0L / 100km (estimate)

How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
  1. Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
  2. Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
  3. Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
  4. Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
  5. Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
  6. The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
  7. Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269

*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year

Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

David Haye record

Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4

The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
if you go

The flights

Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes. 

The hotels

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes. 

When to visit

March-May and September-November

Visas

Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.

Zodi%20%26%20Tehu%3A%20Princes%20Of%20The%20Desert
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEric%20Barbier%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EYoussef%20Hajdi%2C%20Nadia%20Benzakour%2C%20Yasser%20Drief%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
At a glance

Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.

 

Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year

 

Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month

 

Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30 

 

Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse

 

Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth

 

Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances

DIVINE%20INTERVENTOIN
%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Elia%20Suleiman%2C%20Manal%20Khader%2C%20Amer%20Daher%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Elia%20Suleiman%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%204.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
MATCH INFO

Wales 1 (Bale 45 3')

Croatia 1 (Vlasic 09')

Juliet, Naked
Dir: Jesse Peretz
Starring: Chris O'Dowd, Rose Byrne, Ethan Hawke​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​Two stars

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
The bio

Job: Coder, website designer and chief executive, Trinet solutions

School: Year 8 pupil at Elite English School in Abu Hail, Deira

Role Models: Mark Zuckerberg and Elon Musk

Dream City: San Francisco

Hometown: Dubai

City of birth: Thiruvilla, Kerala

Gothia Cup 2025

4,872 matches 

1,942 teams

116 pitches

76 nations

26 UAE teams

15 Lebanese teams

2 Kuwaiti teams

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Updated: August 25, 2021, 4:42 AM`