Day one of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week was as dazzling as anticipated.
A mixture of digital and physical presentations, the houses marked the slow return to normality by offering clothes that spoke of dressing-up today. Gone, largely, were flamboyant gowns, as red carpet events have all but vanished, replaced instead with pieces that were quieter and more daytime, but no less beautiful.
By shifting the focus away from headline-grabbing gowns, shows highlighted instead the handiwork, craftsmanship and astonishing skills that create couture.
Dior
At Dior, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri focused mainly on daywear, made from hand-woven fabrics. Soft grey tweeds arrived as coats and simple separates, and dresses were worn under cashmere coats.
The gowns came with molten metallic origami folds, or gossamer layers of chiffon in shades of taupe. Best of all was a delicate gown with lattice work, made by weaving threads into a loose mesh, to complete a collection that was as elegant as it was discreet.
Giambattista Valli
At Giambattista Valli, meanwhile, it was all about joy, with great frothy gowns in shades of pink and white. Pieces came in Valli's trademark densely-layered frills, and finished with bouncing feathers and satin bows.
There were men's looks too – a first for the label – with sharp suits for both genders, worn with great capes. Interestingly, in a firm nod to this region, he also offered a loose cut kandura with a collar.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli offered beautifully strange looks, as fitting a house founded in surrealism. Jackets with puffed sleeves were patch-worked from different fabrics and over-embroidered with golden roses, figure-hugging dresses were topped with puffs of pink and orange taffeta, or scrunched silver plastic.
There was an almost round cut dress, completely edged in pink roses, and a startlingly beautiful, fitted column dress, with a golden breastplate of bronchi, the internal structure of lungs.
Georges Hobeika
Georges Hobeika looked back to the mod movement of the 1960s for inspiration behind his collection, which delivered short mini-dresses and beaded tunics over trousers. In tones of pale blue, raspberry and lilac, it felt upbeat and optimistic.
That a Beirut house would prefer to look back to the halcyon days of the past, rather than the immense difficulties of the present , is hardly surprising , and Hobeika manages to retain a sense of happiness throughout.
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Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen, always obsessed with movement, took couture to dizzying new heights, by creating a look for the female world champion skydiver, Domitille Kiger, to wear as she leapt from a plane. Created after months of testing in a wind tunnel, the result is a gossamer mix of strength (able to withstand speeds of 200 kilometres per hour) and fragility.
The rest of the collection is about capturing fabric mid-movement, with arcs of chiffon suspended in space thanks to skilful boning. Even the second skin looks felt like they were moving, with cut-out panels and shifting surfaces. In an important shift for couture, van Herpen also teamed up with Parley for the Oceans to create looks from recycled ocean plastic.
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
Maison Rabih Karouz showed a succinct collection of just six pieces, that while brief, still managed to convey a notion of concise beauty, almost as a visual diary of "buy less, but buy better".
He offered a boxy tuxedo a flared pant-suit with lavish fringing, and a floor-grazing trench coat scattered with gold-dipped shells. A transparent dress, with matching trousers, came in powder-blue chiffon, with real flowers caught between the layers.
Maison Alaia
Pieter Muller showed his debut ready-to-wear collection for Alaia, and as a sign of the high regard in which the house is held, he was invited to show it during couture week.
With clear references to the founder, Muller continued the house codes of second-skin dresses, cowled hoods and wicker weave details that were a delight. Sheer dresses came with integrated modesty panels, as waists were cinched with wide, triple-buckled belts.
Rami Al Ali
While not part of the official calendar, designer Rami Al Ali, who lives in Dubai, showed his couture collection in the French capital.
Filled with scrolling, gold rococo patterning, picked out in rich gold on white, the collection had a light, dreamy quality, somehow mixed with urgency, with edges left raw and unfinished and lace panels not fully attached.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Dust and sand storms compared
Sand storm
- Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
- Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
- Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
- Travel distance: Limited
- Source: Open desert areas with strong winds
Dust storm
- Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
- Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
- Duration: Can linger for days
- Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
- Source: Can be carried from distant regions
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The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
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Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
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More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
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- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
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German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Brief scores:
Everton 2
Walcott 21', Sigurdsson 51'
Tottenham 6
Son 27', 61', Alli 35', Kane 42', 74', Eriksen 48'
Man of the Match: Son Heung-min (Tottenham Hotspur)
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies direct from Dubai to Rio de Janeiro from Dh7,000 return including taxes. Avianca fliles from Rio to Cusco via Lima from $399 (Dhxx) return including taxes.
The trip
From US$1,830 per deluxe cabin, twin share, for the one-night Spirit of the Water itinerary and US$4,630 per deluxe cabin for the Peruvian Highlands itinerary, inclusive of meals, and beverages. Surcharges apply for some excursions.
RESULTS
2.15pm Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (Dirt) 1,200m
Winner Shawall, Abdul Aziz Al Balushi (jockey), Majed Al Jahouri (trainer)
2.45pm Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner Anna Bella Aa, Fabrice Veron, Abdelkhir Adam
3.15pm Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner AF Thayer, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
3.45pm Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m
Winner Taajer, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel
4.15pm The Ruler of Sharjah Cup – Prestige (PA) Dh250,000 (D) 1,700m
Winner Jawaal, Jim Crowley, Majed Al Jahouri
4.45pm Handicap (TB) Dh40,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner Maqaadeer, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson
The specs: 2018 Renault Megane
Price, base / as tested Dh52,900 / Dh59,200
Engine 1.6L in-line four-cylinder
Transmission Continuously variable transmission
Power 115hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque 156Nm @ 4,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined 6.6L / 100km
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Marathon results
Men:
1. Titus Ekiru(KEN) 2:06:13
2. Alphonce Simbu(TAN) 2:07:50
3. Reuben Kipyego(KEN) 2:08:25
4. Abel Kirui(KEN) 2:08:46
5. Felix Kemutai(KEN) 2:10:48
Women:
1. Judith Korir(KEN) 2:22:30
2. Eunice Chumba(BHR) 2:26:01
3. Immaculate Chemutai(UGA) 2:28:30
4. Abebech Bekele(ETH) 2:29:43
5. Aleksandra Morozova(RUS) 2:33:01
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
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